yes Xavier.... unfortunately it does... (for me).... i need a shorter distance between the "web" of my hand and the correct application of my trigger finger ........ The sp101 and the taurus tracker seem to fit me the best so far.... I want a 4" barrel and the smith's just don't offer that in my "hand size"........ BIG BUMMER!
The K Frame
- Thread starter ugaarguy
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Good ol K frames.. I bought a very nice Model 17 6" at a gun show Sat.
I took it with me on the ranch today. I got 2 ground squirrels, a prairie dog, and a rattlesnake with 6 rounds. The dad blamed snake ducked!!
I reckon I'll keep it!!
I took it with me on the ranch today. I got 2 ground squirrels, a prairie dog, and a rattlesnake with 6 rounds. The dad blamed snake ducked!!
I reckon I'll keep it!!
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ugaarguy
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The old Pachmayr "grip gapper" (very similar to a Tyler T) helps me tremendously. Without one of these on a gun with magnas my hand slides too far up the backstrap making the trigger reach too long for my quite short fingers. I've found the Pachmayr Compac Professional grips to be ideal. They're all rubber grip that replicates the grip gapper feel on the front strap with side panels that are even thinner than the wood magnas. For some folks with small hands even these grips are too small; the Pachmayr Compac (non-Pro version) is slightly larger. Note that Compacs and Compacs Pros only fit round butt frames.
I've ordered a set of Pachmayr Gripper Professionals (thin sided open backstrap version of the standard finger grooved Gripper) for a square butt K frame to compare against the magnas w/ grip gapper combination. I'll report on how that works once the grips arrive.
The Uncle Mike's Combat Grips, and Hogue Bantams (which are smaller than their Monogrip) should also be considered.
See above. Try a 4" round butt K or L with Compacs or Compac Pros - it feels very much like the stock SP-101.
My main interest in S&Ws has always been the N frames but I think that I currently have about a dozen Ks hanging around the ranch. I bought a 2" M&P at a local show about a year ago and a few months later I found a nearly identical gun at the same show location. Paid $200 and $210 which is OK for shooter grade guns. They letter as having shipped 2 months apart in 1949 but they went about as far away from each other as they could. One went to Los Angeles and the other went to NYC. I know a cop bought the L.A. gun but no clue on the New Yorker. Either a police officer or somebody with enough influence to wrangle a pistol permit in the city.
christcorp
Member
This got me thinking. Is there a way, by serial number, to find the history if any of a particular gun? In my case, a model 13-1. Date would be 1974-1976 somewhere in that time frame. Above the serial number is a mark that says "H-44". Not sure if that was a department number for a police force or just part of a S&W thing. This "H-44" mark is above both serial numbers. The one on the yoke and the one on the butt/handle of the revolver. Any ideas? Thx... Mike....
AStone
Member
Reading this thread today made me pensive.
It's great reading about Ks -
XB's collection,
Iggy's new ranch guns,
S'Pig's matching pair from east & west,
Uga's gripgapper,
C'Corp's serial numbers ...
And knowing that I'm 1/3 owner of a K,
but it's still locked up at the gun shop,
waiting for me to come bail it out
(pay off the lay away).
"Awe, little K-frame, I'll be there,
and there's love and good home to be had ...
I'll be there as soon as I can ... "
___________
Please help an orphaned K-frame
find a good home:
buy my 686 ...
It's great reading about Ks -
XB's collection,
Iggy's new ranch guns,
S'Pig's matching pair from east & west,
Uga's gripgapper,
C'Corp's serial numbers ...
And knowing that I'm 1/3 owner of a K,
but it's still locked up at the gun shop,
waiting for me to come bail it out
(pay off the lay away).
"Awe, little K-frame, I'll be there,
and there's love and good home to be had ...
I'll be there as soon as I can ... "
___________
Please help an orphaned K-frame
find a good home:
buy my 686 ...
AStone
Member
Iggy, I very much agree with the "feeling right" part.
I think it's going to be a much more logical revolver for me than the 4" L-frame.
And thanks for the words of encouragement.
At least I've got my 642 until the k gets home.
Hanging in ...
I think it's going to be a much more logical revolver for me than the 4" L-frame.
And thanks for the words of encouragement.
At least I've got my 642 until the k gets home.
Hanging in ...
christcorp- If that H44 mark is on the butt with the serial then I suspect it is a departmental or security agency inventory number. Not uncommon on guns used by cops, security guards, armored truck crews, prison guards, etc. that were owned and issued by the agency rather than the individual officers.
This Model 27 was used by the Florida Highway Patrol and has FHP 1581 stamped on the frame under the cylinder.
BTW- The historical letter will generally only tell the exact shipping date and where it was shipped. Don't expect any detailed info on the gun's history. Once it left S&W they lost track of it.
This Model 27 was used by the Florida Highway Patrol and has FHP 1581 stamped on the frame under the cylinder.
BTW- The historical letter will generally only tell the exact shipping date and where it was shipped. Don't expect any detailed info on the gun's history. Once it left S&W they lost track of it.
christcorp
Member
After closer inspection, I seem to have 3 sets of numbers. On the yoke, hinge of the swingout of the cylinder, there is the factory stamped number which I assume is the serial number. It is 5 digits long. e.g. 21354. Directly above that number, is the H14 number. It appears to be an "After the fact" number. I agree that it's probably a police or security number for internal tracking purposes.
On the opposite side of the yoke, hinge, (The actual Frame side) is the model number 13-1. Now, on the side of the "Handle" with the grips removed, is the same 5 digit number, assume serial number, e.g. 21354; as well as the after market marking of the H14.
Now, on the actual bottom butt of the gun, on the bottom most piece of the weapon, is a totally separate and different number. e.g. 2D34565
All numbers have been changed to protect the innocent. Anyway, any ideas on the bottom number. I assume the 5 digit number is the S&W serial number. Thx... Mike...
On the opposite side of the yoke, hinge, (The actual Frame side) is the model number 13-1. Now, on the side of the "Handle" with the grips removed, is the same 5 digit number, assume serial number, e.g. 21354; as well as the after market marking of the H14.
Now, on the actual bottom butt of the gun, on the bottom most piece of the weapon, is a totally separate and different number. e.g. 2D34565
All numbers have been changed to protect the innocent.
Anyway, any ideas on the bottom number. I assume the 5 digit number is the S&W serial number. Thx... Mike...
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ugaarguy
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Christcorp the 5 digits only number is the factory assembly number, used to keep the cylinder and crane with frame they'd been fitted too. The longer alphanumeric number on the base of the butt is the serial number.
EDIT: Christcorp if you'll post the serial number in the format 2D34xxx I'll see what The Standard Catalog of Smith & Wesson has to say about it if you've not already gotten the information from someone else.
EDIT: Christcorp if you'll post the serial number in the format 2D34xxx I'll see what The Standard Catalog of Smith & Wesson has to say about it if you've not already gotten the information from someone else.
This is where one finds the serial number on a S&W revolver. Note that the letter prefix is a part of the number. The pre-war revolvers (and some post-war) were numerical only, but if there is a letter it’s part of the number.
Under the cylinder crane you find the model number (if it has one), the assembly numbers and sometimes (not always) the serial will be repeated here.
Under the cylinder crane you find the model number (if it has one), the assembly numbers and sometimes (not always) the serial will be repeated here.
christcorp
Member
Thx ugaarguy. The s/n on the bottom is "2D36956" Thx... mike.....
DawgFvr
Member
Question for the K frame club: I am wavering between an all steel J and L frame purchase. I realize that many use the 686 platform in the woods, hunting, target shooting, etc. Question: Does anybody routinely carry a 686 as their primary concealed weapon…say in an urban environment. If so, I'd love to have some feedback from you. My peers suggested that I go with the Ruger SP101 type frame which looks comfortable...but then, many report that the .357 is still too stout for rapid or a decent sustained rate of fire and resort to carrying .38 Special. I do not want to do that...but then, I'm not sure I want a bowling ball on my waist either. Realizing that everything is a trade off...just wondering about your perception regarding size, handling and conceal ability with a good holster...covered by sports jacket, windbreaker, etc. I see on the S&W site that they have a 2 1/2 inch 686...in six and seven rounds. It looks awesome and just what a CCW 686 should look like...but is that short barrel defeating the velocity of the .357 round concept...all that powder and not much of a tube to launch through. If the 686 is a realistic carry piece...would the 3 inch barrel be the way to go...and again, feedback on the seven/six round cylinder would be appreciated too. Thanx in advance for your honest feedback.
I can only speak from my own experience.
I find anything more than an alloy 380 or a J frame snub too heavy to wear on the belt concealed with any comfort. Other people say they wear a 4" N frame all the time but I can't do it.
Most of my carry the past few years has been "off the body" in a shoulder bag I routinely carry. With this method it makes no difference how big and heavy the gun is and most times I have a S&W M659 loaded with 15 rounds and this is no lightweight. I have also carried 3.5" and 4" N frame 357s with ease.
But it doesn't matter what I do or what anyone else does. You have to figure out for yourself what your comfort zone is. Nobody can tell you if you will be able to conceal an L frame except you.
I find anything more than an alloy 380 or a J frame snub too heavy to wear on the belt concealed with any comfort. Other people say they wear a 4" N frame all the time but I can't do it.
Most of my carry the past few years has been "off the body" in a shoulder bag I routinely carry. With this method it makes no difference how big and heavy the gun is and most times I have a S&W M659 loaded with 15 rounds and this is no lightweight. I have also carried 3.5" and 4" N frame 357s with ease.
But it doesn't matter what I do or what anyone else does. You have to figure out for yourself what your comfort zone is. Nobody can tell you if you will be able to conceal an L frame except you.
AStone
Member
DawgFvr
I'm sort of like Saxon: I've found anything bigger than my J 642 to become tiring after a few hours on my belt. (Which by the way is a good thick Galco gun belt that helps tremendously. That's just as important as a good holster, in my relatively limited experience.)
I'm also seeking a shoulder bag for carrying a larger handgun (65). I'm especially looking at sling bags, but the ones I've looked at so far (one from REI and one from Maxpedition) make quick access problematic.
Re, the weight of L v. K. As I've mentioned here and elsewhere, I'm now selling (sale is pending; check is in the mail) my 686+ 4" because I found - quickly from experience - that carrying it even with my good gun belt and holster was just too much gun to be carrying routinely. For the range or an occasional wilderness shooting, it would have been fine. But I wanted something for EDC while at camp (which for me occupies a month or two of a year ... at least in good years ...).
So, I've traded down in size, going with a 3" 65. I looked long and hard at a 3" 686, which indeed are back in production (even though I think only in 7 shot (?), and not yet available where I am yet to take a look and feel). But after a lot of reflection, I decided to save the few ounces and go with the 65, which is also a bit more compact than the 7 rnd 686.
But I agree with Saxon, Dawg: that's just my experience. I, too, know that lots of people carry full sized L and N-frames all day, nearly everyday, and never blink. I guess it's all in what feels right for you.
Still, hope this helps with the decision process. I know how useful reading others' opinions can be just in deciding what are the right questions to ask.
Keep us posted about what you decide, and how it works out.
Nem
I'm sort of like Saxon: I've found anything bigger than my J 642 to become tiring after a few hours on my belt. (Which by the way is a good thick Galco gun belt that helps tremendously. That's just as important as a good holster, in my relatively limited experience.)
I'm also seeking a shoulder bag for carrying a larger handgun (65). I'm especially looking at sling bags, but the ones I've looked at so far (one from REI and one from Maxpedition) make quick access problematic.
Re, the weight of L v. K. As I've mentioned here and elsewhere, I'm now selling (sale is pending; check is in the mail) my 686+ 4" because I found - quickly from experience - that carrying it even with my good gun belt and holster was just too much gun to be carrying routinely. For the range or an occasional wilderness shooting, it would have been fine. But I wanted something for EDC while at camp (which for me occupies a month or two of a year ... at least in good years ...).
So, I've traded down in size, going with a 3" 65. I looked long and hard at a 3" 686, which indeed are back in production (even though I think only in 7 shot (?), and not yet available where I am yet to take a look and feel). But after a lot of reflection, I decided to save the few ounces and go with the 65, which is also a bit more compact than the 7 rnd 686.
But I agree with Saxon, Dawg: that's just my experience. I, too, know that lots of people carry full sized L and N-frames all day, nearly everyday, and never blink. I guess it's all in what feels right for you.
Still, hope this helps with the decision process. I know how useful reading others' opinions can be just in deciding what are the right questions to ask.
Keep us posted about what you decide, and how it works out.
Nem
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Just found this thread and do not have time to read all posts, but they look interesting. My first two handguns were and I still have them after almost 40 years are a K-38 and a K-22. While in the service some friendly AP's scrounged a couple of pair of the large target grips for me. I prefer these to any othe revolver for fun shooting, the long barrel makes for difficult concealed carry.
gunhappy
Member
tipoc...
is that s&w a gunsmith cut down? If so, where did the sight rib come from? About what did such a conversion cost? I think I will keep the square butt, however I really like the short (but not too short) barrel. By the way what is that, 3"? Do you have any difficulty finding a holster for that?
is that s&w a gunsmith cut down? If so, where did the sight rib come from? About what did such a conversion cost? I think I will keep the square butt, however I really like the short (but not too short) barrel. By the way what is that, 3"? Do you have any difficulty finding a holster for that?
tipoc
Member
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- Mar 9, 2006
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- 3,563
gunhappy,
The gun on page 10 post #242 is a S&W M13-3 with a 3" barrel. This is a .357. These were used by the FBI and other law enforcement agencies back before the 9mm became popular.That gun is bone stock just as it left the factory back in the mid 80s. Except for the Farrant stocks and the gold inlay of course. I plan on makeing a few mods to it though.
The one I answered the private question about is on Pg. 7 # 158. I thought you were asking about that one my bad.
tipoc
The gun on page 10 post #242 is a S&W M13-3 with a 3" barrel. This is a .357. These were used by the FBI and other law enforcement agencies back before the 9mm became popular.That gun is bone stock just as it left the factory back in the mid 80s. Except for the Farrant stocks and the gold inlay of course. I plan on makeing a few mods to it though.
The one I answered the private question about is on Pg. 7 # 158. I thought you were asking about that one my bad.
tipoc
gunhappy
Member
you got it right...
you answered my question perfectly
you answered my question perfectly
I've been hankerin' for a Model 10 2in. for quite a while now.
I found one yesteday.
Model 10-5
2 in. round butt
serial # C5899xx
It has the diamond grips that are serialed to the gun.
Anyone have an idea of age?
I paid a bit more than I wanted ($315.00) but the K frames around here are hard to find and the prices are going up.
I'll get some pics soon.
Thanks
Rodger
I found one yesteday.
Model 10-5
2 in. round butt
serial # C5899xx
It has the diamond grips that are serialed to the gun.
Anyone have an idea of age?
I paid a bit more than I wanted ($315.00) but the K frames around here are hard to find and the prices are going up.
I'll get some pics soon.
Thanks
Rodger
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ugaarguy
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Rodgerp, your model 10 appears to date from 1961-62. SCSW3 lists those years as SN range C474149-C622699.
It sounds like this a 4 screw revolver, if so, since it also has the original diamond magna grips I think you paid a fair price if it's in VG to EX condition.
It sounds like this a 4 screw revolver, if so, since it also has the original diamond magna grips I think you paid a fair price if it's in VG to EX condition.
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