Time to buy a Taurus 856 Defender: but which version?

Which Taurus 856 Defender (3")

  • The Talo with the "CH" hammer

    Votes: 3 15.8%
  • The steel version

    Votes: 14 73.7%
  • The aluminum UL version

    Votes: 2 10.5%

  • Total voters
    19
  • Poll closed .

chaim

Member
Joined
Dec 25, 2002
Messages
3,846
Location
Columbia, MD
I've had my eye on the 3" Taurus 856 Defender since it came out. In addition to the 856 probably having the best reports/reputation among owners of Taurus handguns, I've had a 2" 856UL for 4-5 years now which has been a terrific little gun. The 856 Defender has been on my "want" list for some time, since I'm "retiring" my 3" King Cobra from defensive use (the trigger reset is too different from the Taurus/S&W style I'm used to, as is the cylinder release), and since lately (for a month or so) I've been carrying my 856UL more than my SIG P365 (usually the P365 gets about 80% of my carry time with the 856 getting most of the rest), and it is now time.

Of course, Taurus always has a lot of variations of its guns. I'm torn between three and can't make up my mind:
  • The TALO CH version (Taurus calls its bobbed hammer the CH, or concealed hammer, even though it isn't really concealed). For a carry gun it makes sense, one less thing to get caught on a cover garment, and it will probably only be used in DA mode anyway. However, since it is the Talo, it is substantially more money than the others (it isn't necessarily a lot in raw dollars, but the others are about 25-30% less than this version), and the only feature this has over the others is the CH hammer. For me the biggest reason to go with the CH is that with my "love handles" a revolver with a hammer sees the hammer sometimes uncomfortably dig into my side. However, a well designed holster with a sweat guard fixes that, and $100 extra towards a holster can buy a very nice holster that addresses the issue (or I can find a cheaper holster with a sweat guard that fixes it as well).
  • The standard steel 856 Defender. At 23.5oz it should be easy enough to carry, between the weight and the 3" barrel it should handle any .38spl load with ease and allow quick and accurate follow up shots.
  • The aluminum alloy 856UL Defender. At 17 1/3 oz it is light and many +P loadings may be too uncomfortable for much range practice, and may mean slower follow up shots. However, it will be very easy to carry all day at that weight, and with the right loadings it shouldn't be a bad defensive gun. I've found several loadings that are comfortable to shoot and allow for quick follow up shots in my 2" 856UL, it would just be more limited to specific loadings than the steel version. Also, my 856UL is noticeably more comfortable to shoot than my 1.4oz lighter S&W 442, so the extra 1.3oz of the 856UL Defender plus the lower muzzle flip due to the longer barrel may make it a lot more comfortable for range practice and faster on accurate follow up shots than I might expect.
Anyone have experience with the UL version of the 3" 856 Defender? Is it noticeably easier on recoil than the 2" 856UL? I have carried 23oz guns before (Glock) and the weight is fine with most of the pants I wear (I've worn a quality gun belt even when I'm not carrying a gun for 15-20 years now), though my 17oz P365 is noticeably easier to carry (I notice the gun, but not the weight), so the steel version would be fine, though the UL would carry better. I'm leaning against the CH due to it being the more expensive Talo edition, but I'd almost definitely go that direction if it was a standard Taurus model priced like the others (the price difference at a local store between the UL and steel version is less than $10 and not a factor in any way), and $100 isn't really a lot of money (though it could buy me a few boxes of practice ammo). All have more or less the same features other than steel/UL/CH as discussed above.
 
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I just got a 3" unltralight version. Picked up yesterday. I just wanted light with the idea I might actually carry it. I imagine the longer barrel might make recoil a bit less, but so would the steel frame vs. aluminum, just more weight. I plan to practice with it mostly with mouse fart .38 Special handloads, so - as long as I can operate it with full power defense loads, I guess I don't care too much about recoil, but I'm 100% sure I'll actually be able to shoot better with the additional sight radius. It came with the houge grips, but I don't think they fit my hand very well after handing it for a bit, so - I'll probably get some boot grips, and a smooth full 3 finger grip.

I doubt I'll ever fire +P loads through it. It has a 3" barrel and I think regular .38 Special self defense loads will work just fine. It is what it is and I think it might last longer if I just practice with light loads and not push it. I didn't think of it when I was shopping, but - on your topic of recoil, I'm going to guess the longer barrel gives you enough bump in velocity, where you're getting the same performance as +P loads out of a 2" barrel. so, IMHO you don't necessarily need to be going with the hottest loads possible to get good performance with modern bullet technology, especially with the extra inch of a 3" barrel.

edit - well, what do you know there is a boot grip in the box. and a little part in a small plastic bag. no packing list to speak of, so I have no idea what the part is or what it is for. nice they put a factory boot grip in there though.
 
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I have the 3" steel version with the tritium front sight. I think the larger 3 finger grip on the 3" will make more of a difference than the 5 ounces difference in weight. I don't have a problem shooting +P in mine. I've thought about also getting the UL but I like my micro 9's better.

I would do the spur hammer model. I've had a couple experiences with revolvers where the cylinder bound up from getting junk in between the frame and the cases and I could not get it to cycle forward with the trigger, but pulling the hammer was enough to free it up and keep going, so I am not a fan of bobbed hammers.
 
I fondled the Ultralight CH 2in, it had a orange outline tritium site.
Then the voice in my head that lives back with the memories of my ex wife told me it probably wasn't a good idea.

No Taurus bashing, it did seem like a good little snubby.
The Defender series seems nice.
I'd get the Standard, or the Talo
 
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edit - well, what do you know there is a boot grip in the box. and a little part in a small plastic bag. no packing list to speak of, so I have no idea what the part is or what it is for. nice they put a factory boot grip in there though.
I'm pretty sure the extra part is the standard sight in case you don't want the night sight.

I have the 3" steel version with the tritium front sight. I think the larger 3 finger grip on the 3" will make more of a difference than the 5 ounces difference in weight. I don't have a problem shooting +P in mine. I've thought about also getting the UL but I like my micro 9's better.

The grips and extra inch of barrel will definitely make a difference on recoil control/reducing muzzle rise (so the UL will probably be easier than just the weight difference as you suggest). As for the grips, the UL and steel both have the Hogue Bantam style grips, while the Talo has the VZ G10 grips. Both are fine, though I'd likely change them out for wood grips (I'm undecided between boot grips or a "combat" grip that will provide room for a three finger grip).

Edit:
I almost forgot to address the 9mm part of your comment...
I am a huge 9mm fan. In theory, that would apply to small framed revolvers. It seems like it nicely splits the difference in both recoil and power between .38 and .357mag. In a small framed revolver, .357mag has too much recoil (IMO, my .357mag defensive revolver, now that the King Cobra is retired, is a 2.75" S&W 66), and sometimes something more than. 38spl/+P is comforting. I also have a lot more 9mm ammo on hand than .38 or .357mag. However, I've never "pulled the trigger" on a 9mm revolver (and I did consider the 905 Defender when I first put the 856 Defender on the next purchase list). I like .38/+P for bullet designs you just can't get with 9mm, I like that it has "enough" power with less recoil (in a revolver) than 9mm. On the 9mm side, I'd rather carry my P365 with a 10 or 12 round mag (plus one in the pipe) than a 5 round revolver that weighs more and is a similar size (with a 2" snub) or larger (with a 3" barrel). I love revolvers enough to sometimes carry a revolver instead of a micro-9, and recently I've been carrying my 856UL almost every time I carry, but even if I do eventually buy a 9mm revolver, it will be as a range toy. So, while it seems I'm more likely than you to carry a revolver, my love of small 9mm autos will probably keep me away from a 9mm revolver, even though they do have a lot going for them.
 
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Oh, while it is only a few hours since I posted the poll, I love that there is one vote for each (and similar in the comments). It appears that the THR community is as split on their opinion on this as I am (so far).
 
@chaim , since you already have a 2" barrel 856UL, I don't see the point in a 3" barrel 856UL that weighs only 1.4 ounces more at the muzzle unless a muzzle velocity boost is the main goal.

For better shootability in what I figure will be a belt gun, I'd get the steel 856. At 23.5 ounces, the felt recoil reduction ought to be much more noticeable than the difference between a 16 oz. and 17.4 oz revolver.

Plus, a 23.5 ounce Taurus belt gun is substantially lighter than something like a 3" barreled S&W six shooter at 33 ounces. Of course, a 6-shot Kimber is comparable in weight to the Taurus, but it is not comparable in price.

Personally, I've been on the lookout for a 3" barreled steel revolver in the 25 ounce range for my wife. Just to shoot light recoiling wadcutters out of. Not too heavy and not too light for my 50+ year old wife. Perhaps the 856 is the way to go here, but my eyes stray towards used guns from other makers at moment.
 
@chaim , since you already have a 2" barrel 856UL, I don't see the point in a 3" barrel 856UL that weighs only 1.4 ounces more at the muzzle unless a muzzle velocity boost is the main goal.

For better shootability in what I figure will be a belt gun, I'd get the steel 856. At 23.5 ounces, the felt recoil reduction ought to be much more noticeable than the difference between a 16 oz. and 17.4 oz revolver.

Plus, a 23.5 ounce Taurus belt gun is substantially lighter than something like a 3" barreled S&W six shooter at 33 ounces. Of course, a 6-shot Kimber is comparable in weight to the Taurus, but it is not comparable in price.

Personally, I've been on the lookout for a 3" barreled steel revolver in the 25 ounce range for my wife. Just to shoot light recoiling wadcutters out of. Not too heavy and not too light for my 50+ year old wife. Perhaps the 856 is the way to go here, but my eyes stray towards used guns from other makers at moment.

I probably should have started out with my main reason for loving 3" revolvers is the added velocity gains while being only marginally more difficult to conceal vs. a 2" revolver of the same frame size. It seems that over 2.5" is where the ammo choices that will both expand and penetrate adequately start to open up and some of the limitations of a 2" revolver start to disappear, and at about 2.75" the differences are pretty great. Of course, all CCWers have the same equation... lighter weight is easier to carry, a heavier gun gives more recoil control (and thus faster controlled follow up shots). Where is the sweet spot? At 17.33oz and with a 3" barrel does it tame enough of the recoil and muzzle rise to be worth the trade off for the easier to carry gun? Or, at 23.5oz, does the steel 856 Defender tame the recoil of even the stoutest .38+P enough that it is worth the extra weight, while being light enough for day in and day out carry?

The fact that I have the two bookends well covered (a S&W 442 and Taurus 856UL when I want/need lighter, a 2.75" S&W 66 when I need/want more recoil control) should make it easier to decide (there isn't really a wrong answer, and I have something that covers whatever end this doesn't cover)... however, it doesn't seem to help. At the price of a Taurus vs. a S&W or Colt, I could buy each to have everything covered, but the reality is, if I did that I'm sure I'd end up having one carried often, and the other would almost never see the inside of a holster.
 
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Personally, I've been on the lookout for a 3" barreled steel revolver in the 25 ounce range for my wife. Just to shoot light recoiling wadcutters out of. Not too heavy and not too light for my 50+ year old wife. Perhaps the 856 is the way to go here, but my eyes stray towards used guns from other makers at moment.
If you want it for a range gun, or if she doesn't have much experience with the S&W/Taurus style trigger reset and cylinder release, you might want to add the Colt King Cobra to your list. I've been shooting S&W and Taurus too long to retrain (and I don't want to standardize on only Colt since they don't have lightweight models). Without that, it is a great gun. It has a better trigger than any of my S&W or Taurus revolvers, and it may be more pleasing to shoot than even my 1911s.

If you don't want to spend that, or if it is a defensive gun for her and she is experienced with Taurus and/or S&W, then the 856 is a good way to go. I've been very happy with my 856UL. The trigger was a bit heavy at first, but nothing a few hundred rounds and a lot of dry fire didn't fix. And, if you want to shortcut that, there are always the Wolff reduced power springs.
 
My SD revolvers are all hammerless by now, so that's that one I'd get. It doesn't mean that's what the OP wants.

Again, just me personally, if it's not UL, I probably won't carry it.

It sounds like the steel version with the hammer spur is the one the OP is leaning towards.

All of them are fine. Taurus has been selling the Model 85 since 1984, IIRC. The 856 is just the same revolver reworked to hold six shots. The grips are interchangeable.

3" revolvers rock. This is my 3" Taurus j-frame.

 
My SD revolvers are all hammerless by now, so that's that one I'd get. It doesn't mean that's what the OP wants.

Again, just me personally, if it's not UL, I probably won't carry it.

It sounds like the steel version with the hammer spur is the one the OP is leaning towards.

All of them are fine. Taurus has been selling the Model 85 since 1984, IIRC. The 856 is just the same revolver reworked to hold six shots. The grips are interchangeable.

3" revolvers rock. This is my 3" Taurus j-frame.

I'd actually prefer the one without the hammer spur for a defensive revolver, but it is about $100 more than the one with the hammer spur. I don't prefer DAO/hammerless on a defensive revolver so strongly that I'm paying an extra $100 for the Talo edition or a bit over $200 more for the Executive Grade (I don't think so anyway, I haven't quite ruled them out). Also, part of the additional price are different grips, nice different grips so they may make it worth it for someone else, and I'd happily use either set of grips on a range gun, but they are too big for a defensive gun so I'd still need to buy aftermarket grips. The problems with a hammer spur are easily solved with a holster with a sweat guard for the discomfort of the hammer being pushed into one's side, and drawing with a thumb over the hammer to prevent it from getting tangled with a shirt or other covering garment.

Right now, I'm slightly leaning towards the steel (the way the poll is now leaning somewhat strongly), though I haven't ruled out the UL. Both have definite advantages. On the side of the UL, there is a good chance I'll be using the same ammo for defense that works in my lightweight revolvers anyway (less to stock), so the fact that I could use more ammo choices in the steel version may not really matter. However, it is replacing a 28oz Colt King Cobra (well, for defensive use anyway, with that trigger pull, I may well keep the Colt as a range only gun instead of investing in a King Cobra Target or Python). The weight of the King Cobra was noticeable on the belt by the end of the day, but generally wasn't bad, so at 4.5oz lighter I'm sure the steel 856 Defender will be fine and it will certainly allow for faster follow up shots than the UL.

As for the older 85, I've had an 85CH built in the early 90's that I bought somewhere around 15-20 years ago (I don't remember the exact year it was made anymore, and Taurus dropped the serial number lookup, you now have to email them, and of course, I long ago lost the receipt to check when I bought it). Absolutely no issues, ever, thousands of rounds, thousands of dry fires. It already came to me with a great trigger, not sure if it was all from use or if the original owner had work done. In fact, at this point, the trigger may be a little too light for defensive use, to the point where I may have new springs installed soon to make it a bit heavier. However, between the Colt for a while, the 856UL and the S&W 66, plus the 442 (when I want smaller than the 6 shot revolvers, I usually also want lighter) I haven't carried it since early spring when I put my jackets away for the year. Though, once we enter jacket season in a month or two I may start carrying it again. When I have extra pockets I like to carry two revolvers when I carry a revolver, one IWB and one in a pocket, and when I carry the lighter and smaller 442, I may go with the 85 so they use the same speed loaders or speed strips (even though, when I carry a 2nd gun the 2nd gun is the reload, I often carry a speed strip since they are so thin and easy to carry).
 
I don't think you would go wrong with any of the three.
I did vote for the CH Talo version. I think that it is just a little more unique.
 
The UL is definitely taking the rear. One consideration in its favor... During jacket and coat season (late Oct to mid April), I will often carry two guns when I carry a revolver. I carry a lot of stuff in my pockets, so I don't usually use a pocket gun, but in jacket weather I have extra pockets, and drawing a 2nd revolver is quicker than a reload. If the pocket gun is in my pants pocket instead of my jacket pocket the total weight would be 32oz with the 856UL Defender (14.6oz S&W 442 pocket carried, 17.3oz 856UL Defender IWB) instead of 38oz for the steel 856 Defender and 442. Of course, I could alleviate that by carrying the 442 in my coat pocket when I'm going to be carrying for more than a couple hours at a time (or carrying just the one gun and speed loaders or speed strips when I carry the Defender, even in the winter).
 
Well, I just placed my order and I ended up going with this version:

It was a little more money than the standard steel version, and a little less than the Talo, but because I was going to put wood grips on the revolver anyway, it was cheaper than the grips I was going to buy plus the stainless gun. There is a slight gamble in that if I do decide to switch out these grips it will be a little more than I would have paid, but I think they should work. Full three finger grip but cut back a little in the rear so they aren't as bulky as most grips so they should conceal pretty well. Close to the "combat grip" profile which I do like quite a bit. The Cerakote finish should be very durable (even if the stainless probably would have looked better, we'll see how it looks when I get to see it in person).
 
Well, I just placed my order and I ended up going with this version:

It was a little more money than the standard steel version, and a little less than the Talo, but because I was going to put wood grips on the revolver anyway, it was cheaper than the grips I was going to buy plus the stainless gun. There is a slight gamble in that if I do decide to switch out these grips it will be a little more than I would have paid, but I think they should work. Full three finger grip but cut back a little in the rear so they aren't as bulky as most grips so they should conceal pretty well. Close to the "combat grip" profile which I do like quite a bit. The Cerakote finish should be very durable (even if the stainless probably would have looked better, we'll see how it looks when I get to see it in person).
Sounds like a winner. 👍
 
I've had my eye on the 3" Taurus 856 Defender since it came out. In addition to the 856 probably having the best reports/reputation among owners of Taurus handguns, I've had a 2" 856UL for 4-5 years now which has been a terrific little gun. The 856 Defender has been on my "want" list for some time, since I'm "retiring" my 3" King Cobra from defensive use (the trigger reset is too different from the Taurus/S&W style I'm used to, as is the cylinder release), and since lately (for a month or so) I've been carrying my 856UL more than my SIG P365 (usually the P365 gets about 80% of my carry time with the 856 getting most of the rest), and it is now time.

Of course, Taurus always has a lot of variations of its guns. I'm torn between three and can't make up my mind:
  • The TALO CH version (Taurus calls its bobbed hammer the CH, or concealed hammer, even though it isn't really concealed). For a carry gun it makes sense, one less thing to get caught on a cover garment, and it will probably only be used in DA mode anyway. However, since it is the Talo, it is substantially more money than the others (it isn't necessarily a lot in raw dollars, but the others are about 25-30% less than this version), and the only feature this has over the others is the CH hammer. For me the biggest reason to go with the CH is that with my "love handles" a revolver with a hammer sees the hammer sometimes uncomfortably dig into my side. However, a well designed holster with a sweat guard fixes that, and $100 extra towards a holster can buy a very nice holster that addresses the issue (or I can find a cheaper holster with a sweat guard that fixes it as well).

I assume it's this:

https://taloinc.com/product/taurus-856-tungsten

"Meh." Part of what you're paying for with that is the VZ grips. I have no opinion at all on them.

I'm an "adipose-American" too. I picked up the Dark Star Gear Apollo from Taurus web store. No sweat shield at all. I thought the hammer might be a problem. It hasn't been at all. Your gut may be different than mine.

I also bought a JM Custom Kydex AIWB for the 856, with full sweat shield. I've had that about a month. That totally guards the hammer.

I'd have no trouble recommending either one of those holsters.
  • The standard steel 856 Defender. At 23.5oz it should be easy enough to carry, between the weight and the 3" barrel it should handle any .38spl load with ease and allow quick and accurate follow up shots.

I'm thinking, handling "any .38 with ease" would be more a function of decent grips than heavy weight. EX.: I can shoot my Airweight S&W a lot more comfortably with the bug cushy Crimson Trace LG-350, than the nasty little stock boot grip.
  • The aluminum alloy 856UL Defender. At 17 1/3 oz it is light and many +P loadings may be too uncomfortable for much range practice, and may mean slower follow up shots. However, it will be very easy to carry all day at that weight, and with the right loadings it shouldn't be a bad defensive gun. I've found several loadings that are comfortable to shoot and allow for quick follow up shots in my 2" 856UL, it would just be more limited to specific loadings than the steel version. Also, my 856UL is noticeably more comfortable to shoot than my 1.4oz lighter S&W 442, so the extra 1.3oz of the 856UL Defender plus the lower muzzle flip due to the longer barrel may make it a lot more comfortable for range practice and faster on accurate follow up shots than I might expect.
Anyone have experience with the UL version of the 3" 856 Defender? Is it noticeably easier on recoil than the 2" 856UL? I have carried 23oz guns before (Glock) and the weight is fine with most of the pants I wear (I've worn a quality gun belt even when I'm not carrying a gun for 15-20 years now), though my 17oz P365 is noticeably easier to carry (I notice the gun, but not the weight), so the steel version would be fine, though the UL would carry better. I'm leaning against the CH due to it being the more expensive Talo edition, but I'd almost definitely go that direction if it was a standard Taurus model priced like the others (the price difference at a local store between the UL and steel version is less than $10 and not a factor in any way), and $100 isn't really a lot of money (though it could buy me a few boxes of practice ammo). All have more or less the same features other than steel/UL/CH as discussed above.
I have no experience with the Ultralite Defender. (Any Taurus Ultralite revolver for that matter.) I have both a 2" and 3" steel 856. The 3" gun is, obviously (duh!), a bit heavier. The 3" is on the upper edge of what I'd (right now) carry reliably, day in and day out. Given your description of your carry habits, I don't think that would matter to you.

The 856 isn't hard to work on. But, Taurus really doesn't want the end users mucking around inside the gun. (I understand why. Bless the end users'r pointy little heads.) (You'll note, all the parts you can buy on Taurus' webstore are parts you can install without removing the sideplate.) So, no hammers are available from Taurus. So, get what you want from the get go.

Hey, maybe go with the TORO version, and mount a reddot?
 
Nice-looking revolver. If you don't like the hammer spur, you can always grind it off or cut it off.

Watch a Youtube video, and you can replace a mainspring in about ten minutes. :)
 
OP, you might want to consider adding one of these to your kit of stuff for small Taurus revolvers:


I bought an 856 and these accessories as a loaner to help brand new students who want to start learning to operate revolvers. The laser helps them visualize how movement of the gun through the trigger press affects POA.

Dry practicing with a laser-equipped gun is also a good quality check on the current status of the trigger press for more experienced shooters, too.
 
OP, you might want to consider adding one of these to your kit of stuff for small Taurus revolvers:


I bought an 856 and these accessories as a loaner to help brand new students who want to start learning to operate revolvers. The laser helps them visualize how movement of the gun through the trigger press affects POA.

Dry practicing with a laser-equipped gun is also a good quality check on the current status of the trigger press for more experienced shooters, too.
Not a huge fan of laser sights/grips. I have been shooting snubs for about 20 years now, I have a laser training pistol in the form factor of a snub, and I have a .22 snub "trainer" as well, so I have had enough practice to get pretty good with them. I'll just use the holsters I have for my Colt King Cobra, if they aren't quite snug enough I'll slowly replace them with leather for the 856 (I'm not a fan of Kydex for revolvers or metal framed autos). I have plenty of speed loaders for D-frames and K-frames and several speed strips which work with my 856 and will work with my new Defender. The Zeta6 K-CLIP (speed loader) and K-PAK strips are my favorite combination of quick reloads that still reduces carried bulk over traditional speed loaders.
 
So late last week the gun store called me to let me know that the gun came in. Today I went in to do the paperwork to start the maryland waiting period. I did the Jim Marsh Revolver Checkout (anyone remember that) and of course it passed.

The double action pull was quite smooth and lighter than I remember my 856UL being when it was new. The Ceracote tungsten finish really does look good. I can't wait to pick it up in a week..
 
OP, you might want to consider adding one of these to your kit of stuff for small Taurus revolvers:


I bought an 856 and these accessories as a loaner to help brand new students who want to start learning to operate revolvers. The laser helps them visualize how movement of the gun through the trigger press affects POA.

Dry practicing with a laser-equipped gun is also a good quality check on the current status of the trigger press for more experienced shooters, too.
"Meh."

Not sure at all how good that holster is. I like Crimson Trace's lasergrip better than Viridians. And Safariland's speedloaders over HKS'.

They had a deal this past Christmastime, the Viridian grip for $75. Wonder if they're trying to move stock on that.
 
So late last week the gun store called me to let me know that the gun came in. Today I went in to do the paperwork to start the maryland waiting period. I did the Jim Marsh Revolver Checkout (anyone remember that) and of course it passed.

Oh, yes. It's what I point folks to, that need to check out a revolver.

I know he's still around, but not very active. Wish he'd update that as he promised.

The double action pull was quite smooth and lighter than I remember my 856UL being when it was new. The Ceracote tungsten finish really does look good. I can't wait to pick it up in a week..
 
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