Tips/Tricks for Hornady LNL AP

[jwrowland77]

Well, after hand priming 1000 pistol cases and 200 rifle cases this past weekend, my hands are killing me.

I've decided to step up my game for loading pistol, since I load pistol for my wife and I, plus my parents, plus my in-laws. I've decided to get a Hornady LNL AP.

Now, don't try to change my mind on this, as I'm pretty set on getting this one. I know everything I need to get, shell plates, etc.

What are some tips and tricks that I may need to know to ensure everything runs smoothly?

 

[brody]

Go here for part 1 of a series of how to set up the lock and load.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-qC1O5FzSCA

It will help you visualize what you're doing

 

[jwrowland77]

Sweet. Thanks brody

 

[bmnloader]

I am just now getting the hang of setting up the LnL. the press works fine and watching the Bill Morgan video's helps a lot.

 

[jwrowland77]

I'll have to look at them on lunch.

 

[wabashman]

Op great press choice. I bought one a few weeks ago and absolutely love it. It does take some time to set up properly. Make sure you clean everything as it has oils on it from manufacturing.

 

[jwrowland77]

Op great press choice. I bought one a few weeks ago and absolutely love it. It does take some time to set up properly. Make sure you clean everything as it has oils on it from manufacturing.

Thank you. I have the Hornady LNL classic and love it. I love the quick change on them. It'll be nice once I get it, to just load it up with my die set along with powder cop and just go.

And yes I know I'll have to get stuff readjusted with a full shell plate as that's how it'll be ran.

 

[rsrocket1]

Mount that press as firmly as possible with as little flex as possible and you will make progressive loading a pleasure. I've seen some presses that look like they were mounted on wooden apple crates and I would think they would be miserable to load on.

The base of the LnL AP is cast with a paint/powder coat red on it. You'll notice that the pin that pushes the primer into the pocket starts to wear a divot into the base. This causes high primers in your cartridges unless you really push all the way up on the handle each and every stroke. You can help this by gluing a thin steel washer onto the base to prevent the base metal from getting pushed in. The tough part is getting a glue to stick and hold to the base metal/paint.

Make sure you disassemble and clean all the packing grease out of the powder measure otherwise you will never get consistent drops. Once you do, the drops will be very consistent with anything from ball powder to big flakes like Unique.
Get a grease gun with Zerk fittings to inject grease where it’s needed. Spray lube is not enough.

I use a $10 Ikea goose neck LED lamp to shine through the center hole to verify powder drops.

Additional "Akro" bin trays are about $2 each at Home Depot. This may be a mail order item. I bought a pack of 5 for $10 in the store but they were yellow and not Hornady Red. I didn't care about color.
Neither the longer nor standard tray does a good job at holding 100+ loaded 45ACP cartridges unless you add additional support to the bin. They work fine for smaller cartridges.

Put a piece of tape on the fiberglass primer rod to give you an indication of how close you are to finishing up 100 rounds. When it's near the bottom, pay attention to when the shuttle locks back, otherwise you may load several more rounds without primers in them. No problem with big flake powders, but with ball or small flake powders, you may wind up spilling powder and having to pull the bullets to reload them.

Be sure to empty the powder hopper after each loading session. Even then, regular use of high nitroglycerin powders (like Bullseye) will tint the plastic brown and start to mottle the clarity. No problem with functionality.

Give everything an occasional spray and wipedown of Hornady LnL One Shot gun cleaner and dry lubricant to prevent steel parts from rusting, especially the exposed powder drop parts like the cylinder.

 

[moonman16]

Go to thefirearmsforum Bill Morgan (JIM) aka 76Highboy over there has a complete video series as a STICKY under the reloading forum.

"Hornady LNL-AP Set-UP Hints and Tricks"

Watch em' all, and he'll have your Hornady LNL-AP press just singing along and makin' mucho ammo.

P.S. The primer punch leaving a SMALL INDENT in the frame IS NOT AN ISSUE, it will stop shortly after making a indent.

Also if ordering a NEW LNL-AP in the last several months, Hornady has NEWLY DESIGNED PRIMER PUNCHES and a REDESIGNED operating rod.

 

[jwrowland77]

Good to know. I hadn't even thought about getting a AP until after this weekend and all the priming and loading I did in the classic. Lol. I'll be ordering soon though. Lol

 

[GJSchulze]

The primer tube will hold close to 120 primers. I used a red sharper to color a band around the primer indicator rod indicating the last 20 primers. Once this band goes below the top you can safely add another 100 primers. 1) with the tube empty, drop the indicator rod into the tube and mark the rod where the top of the metal tube touches. 2) deposit 100 primers in the tube and put the rod back in. 3) Mark the rod where it meets the metal tube. 4) measure the distance from this last mark to the bottom tip of the rod. This is the space that holds the "extra" primers, i.e., over 100. 5) measure down from the rod's top mark this same distance and then color the space between in red. Once all you can see on the rod is red you can now add 100 primers.

I did this for SPP, so the result you get for other type primers may yield different results.

If your powder measure seems a bit loose in its bushing Hornady will send you some shims to tighten it up for free.

A quick spray of One-shot case lube on one side of pistol brass will reduce your effort pushing on the handle. Yes, carbide dies don't require lube. Do it anyway.

If you find you have to bend too far when pushing the handle buy an ergonomic handle from In-line Fabrication. You will not regret it. They also sell LED light strips for the press.

He's right about the powder hopper turning color and eventually softening. I only use one powder and am too lazy to empty it out. The hopper is replaceable, but is a tight fit. New ones cost $10, but after I bought extra ones I realized I could just cut the discolored part off. I only pour about 2" of powder in at a time. Someone else suggested that clear plastic protector sheets for paper (the stiff, clear ones) cut to line the inside of the hopper will protect it.

BTW, powder will stick to metal and paint, too.

Forget powder cop dies. Get in the habit of looking into each case to see the powder level. Saves a die station and is more reliable. Use a powder that has enough bulk to be seen and is obvious if you double charge it. E.g., Tightgroup can easily be triple charged in 9mm.

Make a cheap bullet feeder. Buy the bullet feeding die only. Buy clear plastic tubes that will hold bullets without flipping and that will fit into the top of the feeder die. You will have to hang it from something to stand up right. Do not ever leave bullets in a tube in the feeder die because it will bend the collets inside. Buy multiple tubes and fill while watching TV. For 9mm I bought 12 7/16" tubes from Linen 'n' Things via Amazon. Heat one end and twist with pliers to close off one end. Drill a small hole through the sides at the other end. Use a hitch pin clip to close it off after filling it. Remove pin after filled tube is placed in the feeder die. Make sure the feeder die is filled first so that the bullets in the tube don't fall.

Until you get the process down pat, empty the shell plate whenever you have a stoppage that requires you to adjust/fix any of the cases on the shell plate. It is very easy to accidentally move the shell plate ahead thus skipping the powder measure. Guess how I know. See my comment about looking into each case. Squibs are not fun. Double charges are less fun.

Thank you for not drinking the blue Koolaid. After hearing descriptions or seeing photos of blue presses, I don't understand why anyone thinks they're better.

 

[jwrowland77]

I love Titegroup, use a lot of it.

So basically follow the same steps I do know and have been using on checking cases and I should have no issues.

Started watching the 1st video on You Tube. Good video. I'll have to finish it once I get home.

 

[Blue68f100]

Mine is over 6yrs and still going strong. Take all the time necessary to get the primer system aligned and adj properly. The last 3/8" if the act rod must be vertical. This controls the dwell time for primers to drop. Once adj to true vertical it will feed as fast as you can run the press. But if it's not true vertical you will have problem with primer hanging and not feeding into the sled.

Confirm the index, adj as necessary. It only takes a 1/16" turn to make a difference.

When you start up. Start with just 1 die adj till right, lock the ring. Then to the next etc. Once every thing is set run 1 round through at a time to confirm every thing is right. Once confirmed you can load all stations. Just remember you OAL will be off ~0.005" and may need adj with all stations loaded.

If you will be using the Hornady dies no need for any lube on there pistol dies. The TiNi is very slick and smooth. It's all I use for pistol because they require less effort to size.

Enjoy your press.

 

[jwrowland77]

I never use lube on my pistol cases. All my dies are Hornady except for the .308 neck die (RCBS) and universal decapping die (Lee).

 

[moonman16]

POWDER MEASURE CLEAR TUBE SAVER!!!!!!

Place a cut to fit piece of CLEAR PLASTIC SHEET PROTECTOR inside the tube,

THE POWDER CHEMICALS WON'T DISCOLOR YOUR TUBE THEN.

I've had Bullseye in one FOR A LONG TIME, still good to go,

I keep the measures tube COVERED WITH A SOCK to keep the daylight out.

 

[mstreddy]

OP, I'll add as a LNL AP owner for around 2 years now, it's a very good press and works quite well. I'm quite happy with mine. I bought used here in the buy/sell/trade forum and haven't looked back. I actually "graduated" from their earlier Pro-Jector press and once I got the LNL I retired the Pro-jector. I actually traded in the old Pro-Jector for a second LNL AP earlier this year. I've loaded around 6K 9mm with it, plus 1K 223, 300 - 300 Blackout, 1K 40 S&W, 2K 38 Spcl, some 38 Super, some 45 ACP, 600 - 380 and some others. For 223 I size/deprime on the Rock Chucker, but once processed, it goes on the LNL for priming, powder and seating.
Another tip, have a can of compressed air to help you keep the primer shuttle area clear. I find that I almost always spill a kernel or two on 9mm as it advances from powder to seating. This powder WILL find its way to the shuttle and bind it up. A quick blast from the air can will keep things smooth.
On Lube: I am using the Hornady 9mm set and I will agree that they will size smoother with a slight spray of lube.
On adjusting dies -- do realize that you may not just be able to bring them from the Classic to the AP, some folks have been able to measure the difference and use shims to be able to switch between the two using the quick change bushings.
On my primer rod I made marks at the 10, 50 and a couple of other places as well. I can quickly see the amount remaining.
On cleaning prior to use -- pay particular attention to the powder measure cylinder and stems. They must be fully degreased prior to use.
On progressive loading in general -- I'm sure you've heard this, but it bears repeating -- if things are binding DON'T FORCE IT!!! I was running some through and it started binding on me from the priming shuttle, well, instead of backing off, I pushed through -- I ended up breaking the plastic tab piece that holds the primer shuttle op rod. So, of course, now I was down for the week. Hornady did replace it for free, but auto primer feeding for that bit of time. On my new press I see that Hornady included a replacement piece. So, that's good to have. BTW, what was causing the binding was a sliver of brass from a bullet shaving that got in the shuttle/punch area.

If I think of anything else, I'll add it, and if you think of some additional questions -- ask away -- you know there are lots of LNL masters around here.

 

[jwrowland77]

Awesome.

I appreciate it guys. I'm looking forward to getting it. I've been using a single stage for about 2.5 years now, and it's time to step up the ease of priming and loading pistol. Lol

 

[moonman16]

NEWER LNL-AP PRIMER PUNCHES.

The newer style primer punches have ELIMINATED the UNDERCUT PORTION OF THE PUNCH.

The punches are the same diameter TOP TO BOTTOM.

The undercut area was the source of JAMMING due to trash in that area.

Hornady designed new punches and cured that issue.

CANNED AIR is still your friend though.

 

[RealGun]

What are some tips and tricks that I may need to know to ensure everything runs smoothly?

Great press, but I find myself setting aside Hornady dies and getting something else better. In general, Lyman is my favorite, but exactly what I use depends upon whether or not I am loading lead bullets.

 

[bluetopper]

Lightly chamfer the inside edges of the hole that the primer drops in to on the primer shuttle/sled with a small round file. Makes primer feed so much more dependable.

 

[J_McLeod]

I love my LNL AP. Here are my suggestions for it.

Canned air is your friend. My powder measure tends to leak the ball powders and it can cause the shell plate to jam up.

Make sure you change the primer tubes as well as the shuttle when you go between large and small primers. I found this out the hard way when my small primers jammed up in the large tube.

If, for some reason you need to remove the primer tube while it is full do this. Remove the screw from the base. Rotate the tube slowly toward the press handle while slipping a finger under the opening for the primers. I learned this along with the one above.

Keep a few primed cases on hand from every batch. That way you adjust the powder measure, then the seating and crimping dies with them before you add primers to the feeder.

With rifle rounds I'll resize and primer separately, but the progressive still makes it easier with the auto eject.

I second leaving a station open so you can visually inspect each case for powder.

 

[gspn]

The primer carrier spring is a pain to get to. Someone advised me to tie a piece of fishing line to it in order to make it easier to manipulate. Works like a charm.

 

[jwrowland77]

My LNL AP should be here tomorrow. Looking forward to getting it going.

 

[moonman16]

Go over to thefirearmsforum check under the reloading forum, then LOOK AT THE STICKY BY 76highboy aka Bill Morgan aka as Jim.

He has a complete VIDEO SERIES on the operational set-up and running of the Hornady LNL-AP PRESS, great videos I might add.

"Hornady LNL-AP Press Set-Up Hints ans Tricks"

He also has videos on reloading informational subjects, GOOD STUFF!!!!!

 

[BYJO4]

If you follow the directions step by step and watch the video that comes with it, you won't have any problems. I suggest you contact Hornady and have you send you several sets of shims which you will need to use with the powder die to prevent the die from working loose. Never force the operating handle and lube about every 3,000 rounds. I have over 60,000 rounds on mine and have not even broken a case retaining spring.