To Trim or not to trim 38 Special

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But if the case is at a minimum length isnt there a chance you miss the case all together? Or longer than expected and buckle the case? Thats what im not understanding.

Setting your dies correctly is the key. It hasn't been a problem for me in 56 years of actually reloading .38 Special, but I suppose anything is possible, given enough rounds loaded. My round count for the 32 different calibers I reload for is a little over 850,000 at the present time. Maybe by the time I hit one million rounds I'll buckle a case.

There's a difference between application and theory, and I deal in application.:)

Hope this helps.

Fred
 
If you want to trim your 38 brass, then trim it. No big deal, it's your ammo, your guns and your time. There are no "rules" stating revolver brass should/should not be trimmed.

I started reloading 38 Specials in '69, way pre web. I had a Lee Loader and there was no mention of trimming brass in the instructions, so I didn't. I still don't. I have not, that I can remember even measured a case, nor really considered OAL (except when I tried plated bullets). I now reload for 3, 38 Specials (and 6 other revolvers) and do not trim. If I use bullets with a cannalure or crimp groove and seat the bullets to the cannalure/groove and either roll crimp, profile crimp or collet crimp. I have assembled some very accurate, very consistent ammo...

Don't overthink this process. Case length variations of up to .005"-.008" will not be noticed when roll crimping and you prolly won't notice any accuracy variations....
 
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I have been loading pistol ammo since the early 1980s, most of it being .38 Special. I have brass from lots of different sources and I never trim cases. I can appreciate that variations in case length can result in inconsistent crimps but I’ve not been able to tell any difference.
 
I trim my 357 and 44 once so I can have consistent crimps. For 38 I don’t bother because I’m not using a big load of slow burning powder.
 
If I were you, I'd sort your cases by length and then adjust your seating.crimping die so the bullet crimp is the same. and in the same crimping groove

If you're going to sort by length, you can trim them all in the same time frame.

I usually sort by headstamp.
Wadcutter brass doesn't get trimmed, because it doesn't get crimped. Neck tension is enough.
The rest of the brass I trim once. Then, it never gets trimmed again. Ever.
 
Hi...
I started reloading handgun ammunition around the early '80s and have reloaded tens of thousands of rounds over the years.
I have never trimmed a single handgun case whether it be .38Spl to .44Magnum or anything in between.

I really don't think it is necessary.
 
Just an idea; if you want to see for yourself, if there is any benefit in appearance, or performance of your handloads, get an inexpensive Lee trim tool (cutter and case length gauge). Trim 50 cases and reload. Next use the exact same load and method on 50 untrimmed cases. Compare groups/performance. Then you can determine if you should/should not trim your 38 Special brass...

Titan Reloading has the tools for less than $20.00 https://www.titanreloading.com/lee-precision-reloading-equipment/lee-case-conditioning-tools
 
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I used to use a Hornady case trimmer and it was very tedious. I found this Lee Quick Trim.

https://leeprecision.com/quick-trim/

Its inexpensive and the trim lengths only vary about .002 which is close enough to get a consistent crimp, Its cheap, fast and trims/de-burrs both the inside and outside edges in the same step. I use it on my Redding Turret press. I de-prime and size in the first station and then trim the case in the next station before I remove the case and tumble.
 
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