Weighting the P365/X/XL/SAS Grip Module

[Alllen Bundy]

Continuing from:
My Journey From Sig P365 to P365X and Modifications Beyond
(https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...nd-modifications-beyond.891955/#post-11996270)
P365/X/XL/SAS Grip Module Modifications
(https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/p365-x-xl-sas-grip-module-modifications.892045/)
Extending the magazine release button
(https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...zine-release-button-sig-p365-x-xl-sas.892113/)

Weighting the P365/X/XL/SAS Grip Module.

Someone mentioned the possibility of adding a weight to the unused cavity inside the rear of the handgrip. I noticed that my P365X felt top heavy and floppy side to side in my hand when the magazine was near empty. I thought that a little extra weight might help with the balance and it might also reduce muzzle flip and/or recoil a bit.

I made a 1.5 oz lead weight for handgrip. The balance felt better and it eliminated most of the floppiness when the P365X was low on ammunition. Even when the ammunition was low in the magazine, the extra weight kept the beavertail against my hand, and my hand high on the handgrip.

I just tested it on the range. I fired 3 rounds at a time, with one round in the firing chamber and two rounds left in the magazine, and then swapped the handgrip, swapped magazines, and then fired again and swapped the handgrip again and so on.

I'm not sure how much it affected the muzzle flip. I really need a video camera to monitor that. But it did seem to take the edge off of the recoil. Would I testify in court under oath that the recoil was reduced? No. It could be very well be the placebo effect. The time it took to swap the handgrip between the weighted grip and the unweighted grip and swap the magazine was too long. It was also not a night and day difference. I'm going to look into getting an accelerometer that I can attach to the rails on underside of the grip module and try to actually quantify any difference, if any.

When you fire a P365X it basically pivots upward in your hand resulting in some muzzle flip. You can consider the handgrip to be a lever attached to the barrel. Any weight at the end of this lever will tend to resist the rotation of the barrel, and thereby reduce the amount of muzzle flip to some degree. The more weight at the end of the grip, the more resistance to rotation, hence less muzzle flip. Likewise, any increase in mass of the firearm will reduce the effect of the recoil. The question isn't whether or not adding weight to the handgrip will reduce muzzle flip and recoil, but instead: "Will it reduce muzzle flip and recoil significantly enough to notice?"

I weighed the P365X at 1 lb 2.5 oz (18.5 oz) with a empty 12 rd mag. With the magazine loaded with 12 - 115 grain cartridges it weighed 1 lb 7.5 oz (23.5 oz). With the additional 1.5 oz weight, that adds up to 1 lb 9 oz (25 oz). I don't think that most people will notice carrying an additional 1.5 oz.

I consider this experiment a success. The balance feels better. Recoil may have been reduced a bit The grip module looks like it came from the factory with the lead weight installed.

Someone in another discussion mentioned that the P365XL seemed nose heavy. Adding a grip weight will certainly reduce the nose heaviness. Some people seem to think that the additional 1.5 oz is a lot of extra weight to add to a carry gun. But there is an aftermarket all aluminum grip module, that weighs even more, that some people swear by. Different people have different needs and priorities. To each their own.

It took 3 tries but I was finally able to make a good wax impression of the cavity. I used paraffin canning wax, which isn't ideal, but hey, I was only trying to make a lead weight, not fine jewelry. The sides of the cavity inside the handgrip were not parallel and narrowed at the inside, which prevented the wax from being extracted in one piece. I had to carefully sand the sides of the cavity until they were parallel or even opening towards the inside a a little bit. Then I was able to extract the wax impression in one piece.

I made a Plaster of Paris mold from the wax impression. It set up quickly enough, but it was taking forever and a day to dry out completely. The wax form was too grippy and it wouldn't come out of the plaster mold. So I melted the wax out with a heat gun. I also sped up the plaster mold drying with a heat gun. The mold needs to be bone dry before adding the molten lead, as any water content in the plaster could cause steam to form and crack the plaster mold.


I used a propane torch to melt the lead, inside a thrift store stainless steel measuring cup, and I poured a bit too much lead into the mold. But the lead had some extreme shrinkage while it cooled and it left a deep depression in the middle. I reheated the top surface with the propane torch, it melted, but didn't shrink as much when it cooled. You can get lead alloyed with antimony that has zero shrinkage during cooling. But I just melted some lead sheet used for roofing that I had laying around.

The hot ladle is sitting on a silicone pad. And that is a Vice Grip holding the ladle.

After the lead weight cooled, I inverted the mold and the lead weight fell right out. I used way too much lead and I had to file down the excess lead. (You need to be extremely careful handling lead as you don't want to contaminate yourself or your workbench.) After some finishing work on the lead weight, it weighed 1.5 oz.

Left: Raw cast lead weight - Middle: Finished rear of weight - Right: Finished front of weight

I used 100 grit sandpaper to roughen the recess inside the grip module. Then I cleaned it with 99.9% isopropyl alcohol. Just to be extra sure that the lead weight wouldn't come out, I drilled little dimples into the sides of the lead weight for the glue to hold onto. I also cleaned the lead weight with 99.9 isopropyl alcohol.


Finished lead weight next to X/XL grip module.


LeftL Stock X/XL magazine well - - - Right: Lead weight inside magazine well

I glued the lead weight into the recess in the rear of the handgrip with JB Weld Plastic Bonder, which is a high strength a two part urethane based adhesive that remains somewhat flexible after curing. This glue cures rather than drying, so there isn't any shrinkage, or long dry times, which is important because neither the lead weight or the grip module are porous.

The Plastic Bonder sets up in 15 minutes and is fairly well cured in 30 minutes. I'm 99% sure that the lead weight will stay in place. Over 100 rounds fired with no problems. Time will tell. Epoxies are usually hard and brittle and they often react to plastics, so they are not the best choice for this application. If worse came to worse I could always drill sideways through the grip module and lead weight and drive pins through it to hold it in place.

I may try coating the exposed lead weight so that it can't rub off onto anything.


From the top of the grip module looking down into the magazine well.

I will say that JB Weld Plastic Bonder is messy to use. After applying the glue and putting the weight in place, you need to squeeze the lead weight tightly against the grip to force out excess glue, and then carefully wipe off the excess glue. I finished removing traces of excess glue with Q-Tips dipped in 99.9% isopropyl alcohol.

If for some reason you wanted to add even more weight, the options are either expensive or difficult. Or difficultly expensive, depending upon the state of your bank account.

Steel: 490 pounds per cubic foot
Stainless Steel: 494 pounds per cubic foot
Lead: 710 pounds per cubic foot
Tungsten: 1,205 pounds per cubic foot
Gold: 1,205 pounds per cubic foot
Platinum: 1,340 pounds per cubic foot

Gold and platinum would be very easy to cast into weights. The recess in the rear of the handgrip would be a great place to hide an emergency stash of gold or platinum in the form of a weight. As of 07/22/2021 that would work out to about 2.5 oz of gold (2.32 troy oz of gold = $4,201) or 2.83 oz of platinum (2.60 troy oz of Platinum = $2,880).

While it can be used, tungsten is a lot more difficult to form, and not practical for an amateur DIY project.

I also cast a few weights for the P365 grip module. The recess inside the P365 grip module isn't quite as large and it will only hold 1.2 oz of lead weight. Also, as the handgrip is shorter, the effectiveness of the lead weight countering muzzle flip is less.



I should mention again that anyone working with lead should always wash their hands after handling lead and especially before eating.

A weighted handgrip may not be for most people, but I like the way that it feels. It was definitely worth my time and effort.

Next: Polishing the Stripper Rail - Sig P365/X/XL/SAS

 

[SwampWolf]

I'm probably missing something here but if you wanted a heavier pistol, why not get one in the first place? There are plenty of them out there. One of the biggest selling points of "micro-compact" pistols is their relatively light weight. My guess is you liked everything about the model 365 but wanted it heavier in the right place(s) for reasons of improved balance and handling. Or not?

 

[Alllen Bundy]

I'm probably missing something here but if you wanted a heavier pistol, why not get one in the first place? There are plenty of them out there................... My guess is you liked everything about the model 365 but wanted it heavier in the right place(s) for reasons of improved balance and handling. Or not?

For me small size for concealability was the most important reason for buying a P365
The second most important reason was ammo capacity.
Low bore axis for handling was the third reason.
Cost was the 4th reason.
Weight never even entered my mind.

But after I decided upon the P365 as my platform, the next questions were: "What can I do to make it more reliable and 2nd, how can I improve it's performance within my budget." I noticed the floppiness of the P365 when the magazine was near empty, and didn't like it. But it was a compromise that I was willing to make for both small size and low cost. But when someone mentioned that there was an unfilled cavity inside the grip module that could be weighted, the light bulb above my head turned on and I decided to try making a lead weight.

I was making lead castings from soap carvings when I was in the 5th grade, so this was an easy peazy project. The most difficult part was pedaling my bicycle on the 26 mile round trip to and from my storage locker to get the lead sheet and Plaster of Paris needed to make the weight. To me this was a no brainer experiment that couldn't hurt anything, might help the handling, and cost me nothing but a little bit of time and effort.

As it is, the 1.5 oz of additional lead weight is equivalent to Four 115 gr 9mm x 19 cartridges. I've got 35 more pounds to lose to reach my goal weight. An additional 1.5 oz of lead weight is nothing by comparison.

I considered buying a tungsten guide rod because it is 70% heavier than steel and would reduce muzzle flip to some degree. However, I've heard of tungsten guide rod breakage. Tungsten has low impact strength and is very brittle. I consider a tungsten guide rod too much of a risk from a reliability standpoint for a defensive weapon. So I settled for a stainless steel guide rod with an ISMI flat coil spring. But for a range toy or competition shooting I'd buy a tungsten guide rod in a heartbeat.

If I can get my hands on a large enough piece of tungsten that I can file or grind to shape, I'll give it a try in a grip module, as it is 70% heavier than lead. I can easily handle an extra 2.5 oz of weight on my P365X. As there is almost no stress on the weight, it isn't a reliability issue.

One of the biggest selling points of "micro-compact" pistols is their relatively light weight.

That is what sales and marketing might say, but my guess is that if you took a poll, the #1 reason for buying a micro-compact pistol, like the P365, is the small concealable size. Depending on the carry method, low weight would also be very important for some people. But it's a pretty safe bet that the firearms engineers are NOT designing polymer grip modules because of their low weight. They use polymer for grip modules because it's just way cheaper to make than a milled steel grip module.

 

[Kano383]

That is what sales and marketing might say, but my guess is that if you took a poll, the #1 reason for buying a micro-compact pistol, like the P365, is the small concealable size. Depending on the carry method, low weight would also be very important for some people. But it's a pretty safe bet that the firearms engineers are NOT designing polymer grip modules because of their low weight. They use polymer for grip modules because it's just way cheaper to make than a milled steel grip module.

Exactly... The low weight of polymer frames is a bonus, manufacturers are interested in the difference between using $1.00 of plastic, injected into a mold in one operation, rather than $10.00 of high grade aluminum alloy, to be milled on a CNC machine and then finished in complex and costly operations. Ounces don't weigh much in these calculations...

 

[CrisAnderson27]

Soooo! I found your similar post on another site...and had a bit of a contentious discussion there, lol. People seem to be ADAMANT about not adding weight to these little firearms!!

But...I'm grateful I found your post here, to continue the discussion!

I had the idea of using tungsten tig rods to fill the well in my XL grip module. Mine looks different than yours however, There is a polymer 'wall' at the top (towards the FCU) that yours doesn't seem to have. I have 2.5" of unobstructed space. I was able to get eleven 2.5"x3/32" rods inside the magwell and still easily fit the magazine. I didn't have any 1/16" rods...but I have some on order so I may try that instead (they will fill more empty space than the 3/32"). The eleven rods I fit came to a grand total of 2oz. I don't think I'll get much more than the same 2.5oz you did if I use the thinner rods...but if I can do it without casting lead, I think that'll be to the good. Once I've settled on my capacity, I'll epoxy/JB Weld them in permanently.

My previous EDC was a 38oz P229 in .40 S&W...and I was more than happy with it. I'm not the least bit phased by adding a few ounces to this little pistol.

Here's some pictures with the 3/32" rods:

Magwell from the grip towards the FCU, and the FCU towards the grip:


Magwell from the grip, with eleven tungsten tig rods added:


Eleven tungsten rod weight:


I think this has potential...though I wish I could get a full 3-4oz difference.

 

[Alllen Bundy]

Soooo! I found your similar post on another site...and had a bit of a contentious discussion there, lol. People seem to be ADAMANT about not adding weight to these little firearms!!

If some of the guys on that "other" site would lose a few pounds they would easily reduce their arm weight more than the 1.5 OZ that I added to my grip module.

My previous EDC was a 38oz P229 in .40 S&W...and I was more than happy with it. I'm not the least bit phased by adding a few ounces to this little pistol.

I can't imagine that a few extra ounces would be a problem for anyone, unless they messed with the Kenosha Kid.

The tungsten TIG rods sounds like a great idea! But DON'T use epoxy!!! Epoxy can react badly with some plastics. I've had great luck with the JB Weld Plastic Bonder, which is a 2 part urethane glue. Also, make sure that the tungsten rods sit no higher than flush with the cavity or you might have some magazine interference issues. I've got a 2nd P365XL grip module and I might just try using the tungsten rods for that.

...There is a polymer 'wall' at the top (towards the FCU) that yours doesn't seem to have.

Neither of my two P365 XL, or my P365 grip modules have that wall. What is the born on date of your P365XL? The length of the cavity in my grip modules is also 2.5". So it looks like that wall would sit just above the top of my grip weights. Even 2 OZ of tungsten rods would be a 33% improvement over the 1.5 OZ lead wight that I made.

Is it actually possible to weld the tungsten rods together to fill the gaps between them? Tungsten is NOT a forgiving metal to work with.

 

[CrisAnderson27]

If some of the guys on that "other" site would lose a few pounds they would easily reduce their arm weight more than the 1.5 OZ that I added to my grip module.

I can't imagine that a few extra ounces would be a problem for anyone, unless they messed with the Kenosha Kid.

I was kind of surprised at the vehement and active negativity at the concept, lol. Like, to the point of being angry at the thought.

The tungsten TIG rods sounds like a great idea! But DON'T use epoxy!!! Epoxy can react badly with some plastics. I've had great luck with the JB Weld Plastic Bonder, which is a 2 part urethane glue. Also, make sure that the tungsten rods sit no higher than flush with the cavity or you might have some magazine interference issues. I've got a 2nd P365XL grip module and I might just try using the tungsten rods for that.

I was going to put some kind of release agent, then use standard JB Weld in a small pool...maybe 1/3 or less the height of the trough (so a very small amount overall considering the curvature)...then start adding rods until I was out of JB Weld (should be well below the top). Once it cured a bit, I'd do the same thing until I had a flush(ish) chunk of tungsten/JB Weld I could pull out. I'd probably fill it a little proud with both the tungsten and JB Weld...as I can use a diamond grinder on an air tool to shape the magazine face of the weight. With the 1/16" electrodes, I think I could fill a fair bit more empty space than I was able to with the 3/32" units. The JB Weld's purpose is more as a filler and to bind the rods into a cohesive unit...not to glue it to the grip module. Once it's made, I could use any reasonable contact adhesive to hold it in there I believe. I would REALLY love to get 3 full ounces if I could. That's the same as six rounds of my carry ammo. Should be more than enough to stabilize the firearm. I've found that my first 8 shots tend to be very good, and it's only with the following 4 that I get fliers if I do. I can't help but feel that has to do with the ultra light body and top heavy feel of the XL platform when it's empty. I don't have any issue whatsoever with my P229, my Bersa Thunder .40, or any of my other much heavier pistols.

Neither of my two P365 XL, or my P365 grip modules have that wall. What is the born on date of your P365XL? The length of the cavity in my grip modules is also 2.5". So it looks like that wall would sit just above the top of my grip weights. Even 2 OZ of tungsten rods would be a 33% improvement over the 1.5 OZ lead wight that I made.

Mine was made June 09 of this year...so brand new.

Is it actually possible to weld the tungsten rods together to fill the gaps between them? Tungsten is NOT a forgiving metal to work with.

Google says welding tungsten needs inert gas or a vacuum lol...so probably not.

 

[Alllen Bundy]

I was kind of surprised at the vehement and active negativity at the concept, lol. Like, to the point of being angry at the thought.

There is virtually no moderation on that site except to boot people with contrary opinions. There are some very narrow minded trolls in that group.

A solid piece of tungsten that would fit into the handgrip cavity would weigh 2.55 oz. Considering the spaces between the rods, I'm estimating about 2.25 oz using 1/16" rods. 1/16" diameter tungsten welding electrodes seems like the way to go for a DIY project.

Mine was made June 09 of this year...so brand new.

All three of my grip modules are older than that so it looks like you have the latest revision of the group module.

Google says welding tungsten needs inert gas or a vacuum lol...so probably not.

A TIG welding setup uses inert gas, so that isn't an issue. I just didn't know if you could actually arc weld tungsten.

 

[CrisAnderson27]

There is virtually no moderation on that site except to boot people with contrary opinions. There are some very narrow minded trolls in that group.

A solid piece of tungsten that would fit into the handgrip cavity would weigh 2.55 oz. Considering the spaces between the rods, I'm estimating about 2.25 oz using 1/16" rods. 1/16" diameter tungsten welding electrodes seems like the way to go for a DIY project.



All three of my grip modules are older than that so it looks like you have the latest revision of the group module.



A TIG welding setup uses inert gas, so that isn't an issue. I just didn't know if you could actually arc weld tungsten.

I think it's a little more complicated than simply tig welding lol. These weights in my pistol are 3/32" tig electrodes that I already had in my rig . I've got three boxes of 1/16" electrodes on the way as we speak.

 

[Alllen Bundy]

I've got three boxes of 1/16" electrodes on the way as we speak.

As you were talking about grinding any protruding tungsten rods flush, a thought came to my mind that you could add tungsten powder to the adhesive used to glue the tungsten rods together to increase the mass in the void between the tungsten rods. I looked and they even sell tungsten powder on Amazon specifically for weighting things like golf clubs. It may be a bit of overkill, but filling the space between the tungsten rods might increase the weight by 1/4 oz. By using tungsten powder as filler in the adhesive, it will likely make the glue joint stronger.

Tungsten Powder 8 oz for $30.
https://www.amazon.com/Tungsten-Pow...9895807&s=industrial&sr=1-17&ts_id=6469707011

Keep us posted on your progress.

 

[alfsauve]

Curse you Allen Bundy.

Just when I thought my 365 setup couldn't get any better.


Powdered tungsten, huh?

 

[Racinfan83]

Nice idea. Would have to try one done that way b4 I would do it though... I put a Hogue slip-on rubber grip sleeve on mine and it helped with grip and the finger grooves helped muzzle flip to some extent...

 

[Alllen Bundy]

I've got three boxes of 1/16" electrodes on the way as we speak.

Another thought came to mind. Tungsten powder, which is not compressed, will likely have substantial gaps between the tungsten particles. Assuming you mix tungsten powder into epoxy or other glue, it probably isn't going to have a density much greater than lead, if that even. But considering that tungsten is denser than lead, you could lay tungsten rods into a mold, pour molten lead over the tungsten rods in the mold, and the tungsten rods would stay in place as the lead cooled. The lead would fill the gaps between the tungsten rods and hold them together.

Short of sintering a piece of tungsten to the correct shape, or machining a solid block of tungsten to shape, casting molten lead over tungsten rods might just produce the heaviest weight that a DIY'er could make. I'm not seeing any practical DIY methods for sintering tungsten.

Nice idea. Would have to try one done that way b4 I would do it though...

I first used thin double sticky tape to hold the lead weight into the grip module. I liked the way the grip weight improved the balance, so I glued the lead weight into place. I also bought a second grip module so that I could compare the weighted grip module to the unweighted grip module. You can swap grip modules in as little as 30 seconds and be ready to fire again. At worst, it only costs $57.24 for a P365XL grip module at MGW. If you didn't like the weighted grip module you could easily sell it.

 

[CrisAnderson27]

Another thought came to mind. Tungsten powder, which is not compressed, will likely have substantial gaps between the tungsten particles. Assuming you mix tungsten powder into epoxy or other glue, it probably isn't going to have a density much greater than lead, if that even. But considering that tungsten is denser than lead, you could lay tungsten rods into a mold, pour molten lead over the tungsten rods in the mold, and the tungsten rods would stay in place as the lead cooled. The lead would fill the gaps between the tungsten rods and hold them together.

Short of sintering a piece of tungsten to the correct shape, or machining a solid block of tungsten to shape, casting molten lead over tungsten rods might just produce the heaviest weight that a DIY'er could make. I'm not seeing any practical DIY methods for sintering tungsten.

I had considered lead as a binder for the rods...but honestly I'll probably just use plain JB Weld. The tungsten powder is brilliant, but too pricey for one use. The lead is a great idea too...but probably too labor intensive for me (I don't have a mold setup like you do etc) for the small difference it will likely make.

I was very happy firing the XL with just 2oz of grip weight. Any more above that will be icing .

 

[Alllen Bundy]

I had considered lead as a binder for the rods...but honestly I'll probably just use plain JB Weld. The tungsten powder is brilliant, but too pricey for one use. The lead is a great idea too...but probably too labor intensive for me (I don't have a mold setup like you do etc) for the small difference it will likely make.

I've doing more thinking about this as well as doing some calculations. If you glued up a stack of 28 - 2.5" long, 1/16" diameter tungsten rods, starting with 9 rods on the 1st layer, 8 on 2nd layer, 7 on the 3rd layer, and 4 rods on the 4th layer, then ground the stack to fit, you would end up with about 2-1/4 ounces of weight.

Lead does not appear to bond well with tungsten. However both tin and silver are supposed to bond well with tungsten. I just happen to have a roll of SN-96 (96.5% Tin - 3.5% Silver) alloy solder. If I can solder the tungsten rods with the SN-96 I'll probably use that to bond the tungsten rods together instead of gluing them. AND Tin and Silver are NOT toxic like lead is.

I need to finish my holster project before I attempt this, but it's near the top of my project list. Using tungsten rods is a great idea. I wish that I had thought of it before I did the lead weighting. Live and learn.

 

[CrisAnderson27]

I have a holster project going too lol, though mines just an IWB tuckable.

My 1/16 tungsten came in last night. I immediately set to cutting it up. I fit 20x in with a slightly better fit than the 3/32 gave, but the weight was less at 1.9oz. The best weight and fit came in with 3x 3/32, and 18x 1/16. Net result hovered between 2 and 2.1oz. With the JB Weld it's right at 2.1oz. I weighed the finished weight by weighing the bare grip module, then weighing again with the epoxied in weights.





This is the empty weight with a 12rd magazine, and the loaded weight with 13 rounds of my carry ammunition (124gr V Crown).




If I can pop out the weight I'll finish molding it up with JB Weld, and probably get a bit more out of it. But honestly I'm thoroughly happy with it as it sits as far as performance. The weight took a great shooter and made it phenomenal for me. I couldn't ask for more.

 

[Alllen Bundy]

The weight took a great shooter and made it phenomenal for me. I couldn't ask for more.

I don't know if the weighting that I did makes me shoot any better, but it feels better when the ammo is low. I'd swear that it takes the edge off of the recoil. If I can bump up the weight from 1.5 oz to over 2 oz I'll be a very happy camper.

I'm tempted to try a tungsten guide rod in my recoil spring assembly. But I've heard of broken tungsten guide rods and I don't want to do anything that might reduce the reliability.

I can just hear some of the naysayers freaking out over the addition of 2 oz. I've got more important things to worry about like the extra 560 ounces that I'm carrying around my middle.

 

[CrisAnderson27]

I don't know if the weighting that I did makes me shoot any better, but it feels better when the ammo is low. I'd swear that it takes the edge off of the recoil. If I can bump up the weight from 1.5 oz to over 2 oz I'll be a very happy camper.

Exactly! When I say phenomenal I mean 150% feel. Particularly with only a few rounds left in the magazine as you said. 2.2oz is the weight of five of my carry rounds. So when I'm down to one or two rounds...it still feels half full...and since it's low in the backstrap...my XL isn't as top heavy anymore.

Also realize...I know full well this tweaking of weight isn't going to change much at all, except my personal comfort level maybe. There's guys that shoot this little pistol phenomenally well, stock. I shot it respectably. Practice in the form of drills will make me far better than 2oz of weight ever will.

But. I like it, it's more comfortable...and its my gun. So, here we are lol.

 

[CrisAnderson27]

I think....I may cast one of these out of brass, then cerakote it. Wish I could get someone to make one in Tungsten lol, but for now brass will do.

Now just have to wait for them to come back in stock.

https://tactical.dev/collections/al...xtended-tactical-application-rail-for-p365-xl

 

[Alllen Bundy]

I think....I may cast one of these out of brass, then cerakote it. Wish I could get someone to make one in Tungsten lol, but for now brass will do.l

I've considered making something along the lines of a thumb rest underneath the front of the grip module for, my left thumb. Making that out of brass seems feasible and could add a bit of mass to reduce muzzle flip. It might be just as easy to machine the part. I've never done any brass casting before, but there is a first time for everything.

 

[CrisAnderson27]

I've considered making something along the lines of a thumb rest underneath the front of the grip module for, my left thumb. Making that out of brass seems feasible and could add a bit of mass to reduce muzzle flip. It might be just as easy to machine the part. I've never done any brass casting before, but there is a first time for everything.

I don't have the ability to machine...so it would be a hired out job. Casting I can pull off as my forge will work reasonably well as a furnace for a small amount of brass....but honestly, this would be a good excuse to see how well that tungsten powder will work...cast in resin. I've already got 24hr cure resin for handle work on my knives...so I'll just order some powder. May as well try casting a part for the magwell also, see if I can get good weight out of it.

 

[Alllen Bundy]

My 1/16 tungsten came in last night.

Surprise, surprise, WIlson Combat sells tungsten weight kits that fit inside their P365 grip modules.
https://shopwilsoncombat.com/GRIP-WEIGHT-KIT-TUNGSTEN-WCP320-_-365-GRIP-MODULE/productinfo/NW734/

It appears that we aren't the only ones that consider weighting the grip module beneficial.

If I buy Twenty 7" long 1/16" diameter Tungsten welding rods there should be enough to weight both my P365 and my P365XL grip modules.

 

[CrisAnderson27]

Surprise, surprise, WIlson Combat sells tungsten weight kits that fit inside their P365 grip modules.
https://shopwilsoncombat.com/GRIP-WEIGHT-KIT-TUNGSTEN-WCP320-_-365-GRIP-MODULE/productinfo/NW734/

It appears that we aren't the only ones that consider weighting the grip module beneficial.

If I buy Twenty 7" long 1/16" diameter Tungsten welding rods there should be enough to weight both my P365 and my P365XL grip modules.

I wonder how much weight it actually is for the 365? I may just go post this in the thread you started over on Sig Talk, lol.

I got the tungsten powder in by the way...and some other resin. I also have the stuff to make the mold for the muzzle. I decided to just mold an existing rail adapter and see how it works...vs designing something entirely new that would fit on Sig's proprietary rail. I chose the TD adapter as it's low profile and will work with more holsters. As it is I'm going to have to make a NEW holster for my XL...as I completed the other one. I also already made a positive mold of the backstrap hollow, still have to make the negative though. Everything's kind of been delayed by getting my shop setup, and preparing for my new laser to get here, lol. But it's still moving forward bit by bit.

 

[Alllen Bundy]

I wonder how much weight it actually is for the 365?

According to their ad copy their grip weights total 1.5 oz and slide right into pockets molded inside the grip module.

I may just go post this in the thread you started over on Sig Talk, lol.

I think that they may consider that heresy and ban you!

Keep us posted on the tungsten powder and resin progress.

 

[alfsauve]

So wonder if SIG might offer a Tungsten infused grip for the 365?