I don't really load up to +P, because it isn't required for competition, however I'd be happy to share my Match load with you to try out.1) So, I first wanted to ask what loadings people tend to really like for 38 Special and +p loadings.
The thing about .3Spl brass is that case length varies quite a bit, so a perfectly crimped longer case will result in a less than crimped shorter case.3) As I was shooting I was looking at my loads and scrutinizing them heavily as the accuracy was not what I wanted. I looked at my crimp and it seemed a little inadequate. So I compared them to some factory loads I had in my bag, and I decided they needed a heavier roll crimp. So when I was home I tightened my crimping die down a 1/3rd turn, tried it, and the crimp now looked pretty good. I noticed some excessive sootiness at lower charges. Could a less than optimal crimp create extreme accuracy issues? I mean every one fired and extracted smoothly, and I had no problems while shooting them, but the sootiness seemed to indicate either too low of a charge, or too light of a crimp. But these were +p's, so I wouldn't image the charge was too light.
What trimmer do you use? I noticed the case length inconsistencies you mentioned, and I do want consistency.I don't really load up to +P, because it isn't required for competition, however I'd be happy to share my Match load with you to try out.
I'm loading a 170gr Hi-Tek coated RN (NLG) bullet from B&B Casting over 3.2grs of Clays, in W-W cases ignited by Federal SPP. I'm shooting this out of a 4" S&W 686; which gives me right about 715fps. This will regularly group into 3" at 25 yards and 5" out at 50 yards shooting free style in DA.
With a 158gr Xtreme RNFP plated bullet (my practice ammo) I bump it up to 3.5grs of Clays. This is almost as accurate out to 20 yards, but can't quite run with the 170gr bullet out to longer distances
The thing about .3Spl brass is that case length varies quite a bit, so a perfectly crimped longer case will result in a less than crimped shorter case.
I trim all my cases to a uniform length, except for the really short ones. I'm trimming this years cases and out of 1200, have had 8 that the cutter didn't touch...they went into the practice ammo bin. I prep cases every year not because they fail, but because I go to "loss brass" matches...so my supply is depleted by a couple of hundred at each match
I put a pretty good roll crimp on my cases and my spent cases come out of the cylinder very clean...especially the insides.
I'm using the Lyman E-Zee TrimWhat trimmer do you use? I noticed the case length inconsistencies you mentioned, and I do want consistency.
I've never known anyone that went from plated to coated lead and then went back to plated.
I started with Xtreme 158gr FN plated, went to BnB 160gr Hi-Tek, graduated to BnB 170gr Hi-Tek and have gone to Xtreme 158gr RNFP plated.I've never known anyone that went from plated to coated lead and then went back to plated.
I currently crimp my dewc at the last groove. What is the benefit of seating flush?I almost exclusively shoot 148gn flush seated DEWC at steel targets. I'm liking Accurate No.2 better than most, but I keep searching. It's good enough to pick off 2" steels at 30ft with 6" my GP100. The load is usually between 3.0 and 3.2gn.
As you probably know the burn rates will change when powders are loaded in different cartridges. They are really relative burn rate charts.Where do those powders fall on the burn rate scale? Are they a bit faster. I know that powder has a lot of uses.
This load shoots well in every 38 Special I own, from 2" snubbies to four inch K frame
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That's some pretty fine shooting.
Thanks, that's about all I can do offhand at 50 yards. I would have had more on the plate if I did not have to experiment holding off. You ought to see what the really good shooters can do with a revolver.
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The good shooters are amazing!. From what I understand, the K frame S&W 38 SPL was the PPC revolver. Colts went out of timing quickly. However, I was told that Colt barrels were tighter, lead to better accuracy, and therefore shooters would send a S&W with a Colt barrel to the gunsmith, and end up shooting a "Smoult" !
That's pretty good grouping with a 4" gun. You've got it figured out better than most, go with what works for you. The most accurate target load in my Model 27 with 8 3/8" barrel is a 148gr swaged HBWC over 3.0 gr of Bullseye. With a red dot tube and off a rest, I can shoot a 1" group with no problem. I just get tired of cleaning up the mess that the lubed bullet leaves. In that particular gun, the group will open up to about 1.5" using a coated BBWC but I'm willing to sacrifice the accuracy for the ease of cleaning. But knowing what is the most accurate is the important part.. The fun of reloading to me is to taking every new gun I plan on keeping and working up the most accurate load for it. After 40+ years of shooting it still amazes me the difference a bullet and powder combination makes with each gun. I still shoot some bare lead bullets from GT. Their bare lead is about as expensive as most companies get for coated, but I've found the quality is the best of any lead bullet I've ever loaded and they have a nice range of weights. I'm especially fond of their 175gr keith style swc and 185gr hard cast hp.I have not tested this scientifically, but anecdotally I have noticed that for a given powder charge, bare lead shoots more accurately in my revolvers than plated or jacketed. I don't know why this is but I just go with what works.