earlthegoat2
Member
Gonna have to start forging them.....
Do you resemble this guy by any chance?So I headed out to do some reloading last night. Had a little extra resistance on the down stroke and this happened. So much for my holiday reloading time... Emailed RCBS and will see what they have to say.
I don’t think they are supposed to do that!
Mark
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I wouldn't be surprised if JB Weld worked. Guys have fixed engine blocks with that stuff. I had a regulator break on an air compressor (piece that holds the adjuster and holds back air pressure) about 15 years ago. Figured what the heck - JB Weld - and it's still going strong. I think its stronger than the original piece. If I was going to fix the press, I'd drill it to insert a couple steel rods and JB Weld the snot out of it.Just to hold it until the JB Weld cures.
I wouldn't be surprised if JB Weld worked. Guys have fixed engine blocks with that stuff. I had a regulator break on an air compressor (piece that holds the adjuster and holds back air pressure) about 15 years ago. Figured what the heck - JB Weld - and it's still going strong. I think its stronger than the original piece. If I was going to fix the press, I'd drill it to insert a couple steel rods and JB Weld the snot out of it.
It's grey cast iron. It drills very easily and very well. White cast does not. It was used for bob sled runners, wheel rims and any fast wear application because it is so hard.This is cast iron, how can anyone drill the stuff?!
This is cast iron, how can anyone drill the stuff?!
Or nickel rod and an arc welder. I welded an axle housing back together when I had more time than money.It drills super easy, using no lube, depending on the foundry. There was one we used to cast parts for us, sometimes you would get castings that would smoke tooling. Even found a spark plug porcelain in one casting.
Silicon bronze rod and a TIG welder would fix the OP’s press but I bet a phone call would too.
It was definitely my strength and manliness. Not sure why all of you people think there could have been a defect with the iron...
Mark
If they don't want it back I would attempt to repair it and make a dedicated deprimming press out of it. I've deprimmed so many cases on mine that I'm getting concerned about all of the wear and tear caused by the primer residue. I have like gallons and gallons of used fired primers. I expect that they will take care of you and that they will want it back.
makes those three posts on my Lee seem like a nice assurance. But really if they don't want it back, epoxy it, when dry, drill some cross holes, bolt it up, grind the crack down, and have it welded up. Go cheap and leave the ugly bead in place. Frame these pictures, and put them on the wall behind the press. It would be a hell of a conversation starter for you, and however inherits the press for however long reloading is a thing.
They are superb presses but the primer catcher on the rock chucker sticks. If I wanted a deprimiming press I would get one of the Lee’s with through ram primer handling.
just epoxy a small space in the center to hold it together while you drill holes for a bolt. The bolt is there so when you grind the seam, it doesn't call apart, and come out of alignment while you weld. The epoxy isn't structural.They are superb presses but the primer catcher on the rock chucker sticks. If I wanted a deprimiming press I would get one of the Lee’s with through ram primer handling.
Weld it after you have epoxied it? Might want to think that through.
In the past my best luck came from tacking, then bevelling it for welding. Epoxy melts at 900ish degrees and would contaminate the weld.just epoxy a small space in the center to hold it together while you drill holes for a bolt. The bolt is there so when you grind the seam, it doesn't call apart, and come out of alignment while you weld. The epoxy isn't structural.
I saw a picture of a Dillon (550 I think) that snapped in half like that.