Why bother reloading 380acp?

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Vai

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Hello folks!
I'm a new member and gun owner. I purchased a Sig P238 and now I'm thinking about buying a lee turret press so I can save $ on ammo. At least that's what I thought, because after adding up the price of brass, bullets, primer and powder it seems that I might be saving just a few bucks, like 3 bucks, vs buying factory 50rd boxes. I called the local shops and browsed online for prices and can't find a really good deal yet. Am I missing something or is just not worth it to buy the press and reload my 380? If you know of a place online where I can buy brass, bullets and primes really cheap please let me know. For the powder, amway charges an extra fee for hazardous material so it's not worth it to buy it online if all online sellers have this fees for powder.
Any suggestion on how to make 380 reloading considerably cheaper than factory, please let me know.
Thanks a lot
 
How many boxes do you shoot per year? Do you have other calibers you could also reload for?

$3/box for every single box of 380 you plan to shoot in your lifetime....no, you aren't saving $10 per box, but it's still savings

Welcome to THR! Be sure to look around you will have much reading to do :)
 
Pick up primers and powder at your local store or gun show. I like Bullseye & Unique, many others seem to like 231. Should be $18-$21 / 1 lb can.. at 3gr of Bullseye / round, that will load 2,333 rounds / 1 lb of powder, fewer rounds if you use Unique or 231.
Box of cci primers, $27-$32 locally.
Pick up some 95gr FMJ from Montana Bullet Co, 1000 for $99 including shipping.
So, now you just need brass - I'd recommend The High Road Trading Post. I picked up 1000 pcs for $55 shipped.
So, cost per 1000 round (not counting brass):
Bullets + Primers + Powder
$99 + $30 + $9 = $140 / 1000 ==> $7/box.
If you want to figure in cost of brass, at using the brass say 7 times, that bumps the cost up another $7.88 / 1000 = $7.25/box

I won't attempt to include the cost to begin reloading (press, dies, Lee Autodisk powder measure, scale, calipers, manuals, loading blocks, hand primer, etc)... budget $200 - $300 to get setup. I load using a Lee Turret press classic. It is a very nice press, and load around 150 rounds/hour.

I reload because I enjoy it, and I didn't have any problems shooting any of my 380's during the ammo shortage of 2009 - 2010 where people were paying > $30/box 50.

Good luck!
 
How are you pricing your components? By the 100 in primers, 1# for powder, 100 pcs. for brass, bullets by the 100?

If so, you won't save much if anything at all. Buying powder by the 8# jug, primers by the 5,000 sleeve, bullets by the 1000/5000 and picking up range brass for free, and now you'll be saving some money
 
The best reason for reloading .380 ACP is, for the last two years post-Obama you couldn't buy any already loaded!
Cheaper Then Dirt claimed to have some, but was price gouging it out the door for $38 dollars a box for a while.

Figure your reloading savings using that as a baseline.

rc
 

CAUTION: The following post includes loading data beyond currently published maximums for this cartridge. USE AT YOUR OWN RISK. Neither the writer, The High Road, nor the staff of THR assume any liability for any damage or injury resulting from use of this information.

1903 Colt 380:

Win factory ammo 95 gr 830 fps
My handloads 158 gr 1187 fps
 
I currently reload .45 and 9mm using FMJ bullets. I'm still new to the game, so I'm not comfortable switching to cheaper lead bullets yet.

My last batch of 9mm was $7.25/box, which doesn't save much over the average $11 or so that it goes for at the store, but my .45 ammo was only $9.30/box, compared to $21 in the store.

.380 around here is not cheap ($12-15/box), so if you bought components in quantity, you'd be in pretty good shape cost-wise. I bought powder for $20/1 lb, primers were $30/1000, and bullets were $100/1000 (9mm). Brass was free (range pickups), which makes for a happy day at the bench.
 
Even buying in small batches, you will get .380 down to around 7.00 a box, if you recycle the brass. That's half price, isn't it? I haven't seen .380 for less than 14.00 in a long time.

For .380 I suggest you look at Winchester Auto Comp. Word is that Winchester uses it in many of their factory .380 loads. Hogdon's loading guide lists several Auto Comp .380 loads that leave the other powders way behind. Some people are even using it to make 9mm major loads. I'm about to try it for .40 and 9mm, myself.
 
To buy Brass, along with bullets, primers and powder to load with does not provide the cost break most people see quoted. The point of "reloading" is to save your used brass and "reload" it saving the cost of the brass. If you buy all the components you are not reloading anything as everything is new and never been loaded. If you recalculate the cost but leave out the cost of the brass you will see what you are really saving when you "reload".

Example load, not buying in bulk:

Rainer 100gr plated: ~$15 per 100
Win Small Pistol Primer ~$30 per 1000
Win 231 powder 3gr ~$20 per pound

18.9 cents per round
$9.43 per 50

Example load, buying in bulk:

Rainer 100gr plated: ~$80 per 1000
Win Small Pistol Primer ~$130 per 5000
Win 231 powder 3gr ~$130 per 8 pounds

11.3 cents per round
$5.65 per 50

All of the above is doable by shopping around for good prices on the components. Buying in bulk when possible gives great savings as shown. If you are going to reload used brass you will save a good deal. When you buy in bulk and reload you will save a lot more. A good place to play with the cost numbers is: http://www.handloads.com/calc/loadingCosts.asp. Really helps when trying to compare the cost of stuff.

I try to buy stuff when I can get a good deal on the bulk prices. I may not use the stuff for years but when I do I know I have saved as apposed to buying new factory ammo.

During the last couple years since Obama was elected when everything was in short supply I was still shooting cheaply due to the extra stuff I had purchased in bulk. I had plenty of stuff on hand and was able to shoot pretty much whenever I wanted. I just could not buy the most up to date whiz-bang bullet or powder. So I just used what I had on the shelf.

There are lots of reasons to reload. Cost is not the only reason. Supply and demand is another that happens from time to time.

KeithET
 
everybody should start reloading 380. please pick it all up at the range so it doesn't get mixed in with my 9mm. (and if I never see another 9x18 again it will be too soon)
 
but was price gouging it out the door for $38 dollars a box for a while.
Click to expand...

NO such thing as price gouging, it is called supply and demand. NO ONE is forcing you to buy it at that price and it is not an essential item, ergo, no gouging can exist.

As I mentioned earlier - if you shoot 380 enough, buying components in bulk is the way to go to save money
 
Did I read that right? Are you buying your powder from Amway?
I didn't know they sold powder.
How much money you save depends on how much you shoot. If you shoot very little maybe reloading is not your solution. Saving money is not the only reason to reload. I like quality ammo and I like to reload, win win for me.
YMMV
 
The big savings come from re-using the brass. You will probably lose it before it wears out. Some 380 ACP pistols scatter brass far and wide so it can become a challenge policing the cases.

The small size of 380 ACP adds a little difficulty to loading it, but otherwise no different than any other pistol cartridge.
 
Like others have said, unless you shoot a massive amount, it's probably best to buy your primers and powders locally rather than online. A pound of powder and 1000 primers will make a lot of 380 ammo.

For equipment like the Turret press, powder dispenser, scale, etc a couple good places to shop are
Midway http://www.midwayusa.com/
Natchez http://www.natchezss.com/
Lee factory sales https://factorysales.com/

You can buy the Classic turret, Pro Auto Disk powder dispenser, Safety Prime setup, a good scale, calipers, loading block, and all the other stuff for around $250.

Even without buying mega-volumes of powder, primers, bullets, you should be able to reload for half the cost of factory ammo for a .380. If you shoot much, it won't take long to pay for the equipment.
 
greyling22 said "everybody should start reloading 380. please pick it all up at the range so it doesn't get mixed in with my 9mm. (and if I never see another 9x18 again it will be too soon)"



You and me both, boy does it suck when you get that .380 ACP stuff mixed in your 9mm Luger brass!!!
 
Well, being as I have cases of 5,000 primers that cost me $45.00 a case, thats less than a penney each, and all my brass is free by being range P/U. My powder cost $8.00 a lb., yes its pull-down surplus powder and my bullets are cast from free range lead and wheel weights. My total cost per round is less than $ .02.

Cost for the equipment doesn't count as they also load 30 some other calibers. I do not factor in my time as its something I enjoy, just as I do not factor my time while reading a good book, or eating, or sleeping. Furthermore I'm retired.

Other costs while reloading? Who know how much the lighting cost in my reloading room.

So final cost of a box of 50 rounds of .380 acp, less than $1.00. Ya it saves bucks.

Another note: I've been doing this for 50+ years and alot of my equipment was purchased used or given to me, or purchased on close out/special pricing. Case in point Sinclare Arbor Press picked up at their Ft. Wayne outlet on their discount table -- $35.00, reg price $105.00.
 
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If you find 380 in your 9mm heres what you do:

1) Put in envelope
2) PM me for my address
3) Put in mail
4) Wait 1-2 weeks for what shipping cost you plus an extra few bucks for your trouble in the form of Postal MO from me

Problem solved
 
You can START to reload much cheaper than that $200 price by using a Lee HAND Loader with the RAM Prime feature, $37 at http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=624416. Then use Lee DIPPERS (about $12) to charge the case with powder (you will get a lot of squawk on using dippers from some folks, but trust me, they work and work well). If you buy them used, beware the old style (orange) are in Cubic Inch and the new style (yellow) are in Cubic Centimeter. You want the newer ones in yellow.

Second choice is getting a Lee Basic/classic Loader for about $25 most anywhere, search for price + S&H as prices honestly differ from place to place, the set will size, decap, flare and load the bullet into the case, even comes with a flow through case charger. Slow yes, but millions and millions of rounds have been made with them safely and accurately. all you will need tool wise is a nice larger plastic or leather mallot. You can watch you tube videos on its use @ http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nwr0FyJOk-4.

I have a loading block I will send you for free if you pay the $5 postage and I will add some goodies to boot.

Buy a JUNK set of dies ($5 - $10) from eBay, gunbroker or AA and then turn those junk dies into Lee and they will sell you a 3 die carbide set for $19 shipped thus saving about 50% on NEW carbide dies.

Then you need to find powder, primers and brass. For brass, buy loaded ammo, shoot it, then reload. For primers, if you go to Gander and show an valid NRA card or sign up there for the NRA, they will sell you the primers for a .380 (CCI small pistol primers) for a $1.84 per 100 no limit on qty (must be bought at a Gander store, not internet). That brings primers to $18.40 per 1000.

This leaves the powder, do not get it internet as they will charge you a $25 hazmat fee. I usually find powder at Gun Shows or look for local estate sales. If that is not avail, then you have to pay a retail price at a local shop. On your first purchase, ask the shop for a discount for just getting into reloading and also show your NRA card.

One thing I have done was to get a C&R FFL Collectors license. Many wholesalers will give you discounts with it on Bullets, Brass and reloading tools. Some even discount primers and powder but again, you lose the discount on the HAZMAT fee. I save anywhere from 10% to 25% on goods with using the C&R and it only costs $30 and is a fast turn around from the BATFE.

One more thing, if you want a full up single stage reloading press. Go for the Lee Anniversary set, it comes with everything except dies to reload. I have found the reloading set from lee for as little as $98 + S&H, you just have to do a google search and do some comp pricing. Midway has them for $97.00 http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=423081

I hope this helps. This was just a quick recommendation on lower cost ways to get around the expert systems and get into novice systems.

Bullets are a free for all. I use lead on my .380, as long as you do not load hot, lead is just fine. I totally go with price. If you load hot, you need to go to SJLRN or FMJ. A decided google search will allow you to compare prices + S&H. I often switch dealers on price and S&H costs at the moment. It does seem to switch price wise as often as a 10 term Dem in congress bases their decisions. Bullets are one of those decisions that some are staunch and loyal users or others like me, go by current price.

PM me if you need any help, will be more than glad to offer assistance to a new reloader.
 
Set of Lee dies from Natchez on sale right now in .380 acp cal. $23.95. Don't hve to buy the junk dies and turn them in to Lee.

Not quite as good a price that I first posted but still good.

Sorry for the error.
 
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RC - I agree, many dealers in ammo were totally price gouging and was more than likely respons for many getting into reloading. ^5
 
JCWIT - are those carbide ?? If so, that is one hell of a deal if so. I rarely use Nat as they really messed me up on an order once and would not repair the mix up.

I just checked, that is for ONLY the carbide sizer die.
 
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The small size of 380 ACP adds a little difficulty to loading it...
Click to expand...

If you think .380 is tough to load...try reloading .25 auto like I do!
Hey Clark ol' buddy...how do you get a 158 grain bullet to fit and function in a .380 magazine??
 
NO such thing as price gouging, it is called supply and demand. NO ONE is forcing you to buy it at that price and it is not an essential item, ergo, no gouging can exist.
Click to expand...

Really...then what would you call ticket scalping??
Aside from it's legal definition, price gouging is a pejorative term referring to a situation in which a seller prices goods or commodities much higher than is considered reasonable or fair.
pejorative: a word or phrase that has negative connotations
Click to expand...
 
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