Mosin-Nagant user thread

One thing to consider about reloading: independence.

During the Obama scare, did any of you have a tough time getting ammo? If you are set up to cast/reload it changes the landscape for you.

I'm not a high volume shooter and I saw a democratic president coming when Bush got re-elected. So I stocked up to the point where I will never have to buy primers, powder, brass or lead agian. Independence was the biggest reason for me to do so and since I had the resources and time I did it.

I can cast for every caliber I shoot since the magnum bigger not big enough bug never bit me, I think that guns like the Mosin is plenty. Or a .45-70!


Cat

During the Obama scare, did any of you have a tough time getting ammo?

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Honestly, no. I could still get 12 gauge shells at Wal-Mart, like I do now. I could still get .22 rimfire bricks at Wal-Mart, like I do now. I could still get x54R at my LGS, like I do now. The same can be said for 9mm, 45acp, and 20gauge shells.

Only once was it ever hard for me to find x54R, and that was at one Gander Mtn. location. Someone had bought every box on the shelf, and I simply didn't bother asking if they had any in the back as I already had plenty. I still can't find a suitable supply for 6.5 Arisaka, but what do you expect for an obsolete milsurp?

The Obama gun scare was a myth, as far as I'm concerned. Sure, some guns got more expensive, but most of that had little or nothing to do with who got elected and a lot more to do with the fear mongering of the market about what Obama might do once elected. I'm not a fan of Obama, but it's got nothing to do with this thread, or the price/ availability of ammunition.

I have to admit I buy the 440 rd tins, too - it's still cheap, though the last supply I bought was still ~$90/880 rd case delivered. I still have some, but need to pick up another 440 or 880. I have all the molds & sizers needed to load for it, but I just haven't had the urge yet. Lee has a great 185 gr mold I bought for the 303s, and it will be great for the mosins )http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/default.aspx?productNumber=562844 ). One or two of the reviewers had problems with undersized bullets, but it could have been either the mold or the alloy. Linotype throws smaller bullets, and you really need to try to get it to the old Lyman #2 alloy (1 part tin to 9 parts lead). You can get a lot of info over at Cast Boolits' forum, ad inf, ad naus I get more motivated when it's not 110 outside and the shop is not a sauna The nice thing about cast boolits is that the brass will last forever, especially if you neck size. It's definitely worth considering if you don't like to shell out a bunch of bucks for milsurp, cheap though it may be.

USAF Vet,

You are welcome to think that the Obama scare was nothing but a myth. I think many would disagree with you, but there you are.

Absolutely buy some milsurp Maj Dad, I have some and it's can be very useful. Lots easier to not have to reload too.

I think that you would find that linotype expands when cast. It's the opposite of pure lead which shrinks and quite a bit too. Although I could be wrong about the lino as I've never cast with it. Pure lead I have and I've measured it, boy does it shrink.

I've used just straight wheel weights for the Mosin and it eats them like candy.


Cat

I have a 91/30 with mojo peep sights and would like to have a side mount setup that would allow the use of these sweet peeps. I know of the companies that make the side mounts. I dont care about stripper clips. My question is, who has had great results with a $100-$150 budget excluding the scope? I saw the Jmecks scope mount but i'm looking for side mounts. I had a scout mount that replaced the rear sight, both screw heads sheered when i tightened them and even with the 3 screws on the rail tightened it wasnt sturdy enough... So.. Just looking to see what side mount setup everyone is happy with!

Also do the kalinka "bp-02 svd/psl/tigr/romak" side mounts under $100 work on mosins? with high rise scope rings maybe? Thanks in advance and i'm looking forward to hearing what people have done!

EDIT:: Nevermind, going with Rock Solid Industries.

I've got a 91/59 what do you guys think of these? Sorry if this was already answered a search didnt come up with anything. I bought it back in '99 for $90, I didn't even know what a Mosin was. Just saw a centerfire military rifle for less than 100 bucks and had to have it. The gun shop had a carbine Mosin with a bayonet, did the 59s come with one?

Thats a good price, I believe that those are pretty rare.

EDIT: And no, the 91/59s do not have bayonets. The M44 is a carbine that has a permanent bayonet.

Well that is good to know! I did some research and it seems that there are a few contradictions surrounding this model. Anyway it seems all the numbers match and it is a good shooter. In fact my Grandpa shot a deer with some S&B stuff, put a hurtin' on it!

new scope & mount for my M91/30

I'm probably going to get one of these (as soon as I can find a way to sneak it in the house) but my question is, has the Mosin suddenly jumped in popularity, or have I just overlooked them before? I remember when the SKS's were still under $100 at gun shows and I'm kicking myself now for not buying up every one I saw. :banghead: I almost want to hoard some of these for a few years. What's the scoop?

Just so you know, jmeck now has a side mount out that allows for operation with a straight bolt and stripper clips. Do a YouTube search for "jmeck side mount".

Good to know.

I got my first one

Well I finally got my first Mosin Nagant. It is a 1936 Tula Hex Receiver. All the numbers match except on the bayonet. It came with the usual accessories. I cleaned off the cosmoline using the black plastic bag and sun method. I know some people frown upon it, but I also refinished the stock. I used 5 coats of Tru Oil and left the shine on. I think that it turned out pretty good. My next MN (and I know there will be one) I will leave as original as possible. I ordered 2 spam cans of ammo from SGAmmo so I could also get a can opener. I look forward to getting it to the range. Here are a few pictures:

Removing the Mosin 91/30 rear sight base

There is a 3/8 in dovetail under the rear sight base Once it is removed the dovetail can be used with the proper scope rings to securely mount a long eye relief scope.

Of two 91/30s the one made in 1930 is pinned in place and the other (1934) has no pins so I suppose it is soldered on.

Has anyone ever tried to remove a soldered rear sight base? What is the best procedure?

With the barreled action removed from the stock- am I likely to do any damage to the piece with a propane torch? Do I just heat it up and bang it forward with a mallet?

opieee, drift any pins, sometimes its none, one or two. heat gently and evenly and gently tap the base forward, yep, its in a dovetail.

Why remove the rear sights?
The 1930 was the first year of the 91/variation, do you have a 'hex' or round reciver? Is it a referb or still 'as issued'? [l] or [/] struck with lots of varnish and cosmo = refurb. Does your stock have pressed in slot guards, screwed in slot guards or no guards at all, where you sling mounts through the wood on your stock.....do you know who made it?

Lotta info on gunboards.com on the gunsmithing forums. If your sporterizing, you dont want to post much at the collectors forum, they get cranky about mods, but a lot of history can be gleend there and questions asked.

Caribou

heat gently and evenly and gently tap the base forward, yep, its in a dovetail.

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Towards the front sight? Will a lot of solder run out?

Yes, forwar toward the front sight. I doubt you will see a 'lot' of solder, but maby enough to know its fluid and you need to get tapping.
Use a peice of wood between the sight base and your hammer blows, to prevent marring or damage.

I first fired a rental Mosin Nagant M44 about 6 weeks back. I want one now. Does anyone know a good source, price, and things to look for when buying a 91/30?

@ mortablunt I have the 91/30 and M44. I’m no expert on Mosins but the 91/30 seems to be the most common and best priced. I have the round receiver but some people prefer the hex receiver over the round receiver so that's one thing to consider. More importantly check the headspace on any Mosin before you fire it, get yourself no-go gauge and/or field gauge and test it before firing.

Buy an in the box refurb with accessories, then you'll have no worries, the factory recondioning process included a headsapace check , thoughnot an issue on rimmed cartridges, but done when barrel/bolt installation was needed.
rimmed cartridges headspace on the width of the rim of the ammunition.
If you bolt is matched in Numbers with the original bolt, or renumberd by struk numbers or written with an electro pencil and match your rifle, you have no problems, but a mis match or blank bolt should be headspace checked.
Its a much bigger deal with a Mauser, or any other cartrige that headspaces from the shoulder of the cartridge.

What is most important on before fireing any new to you Mosin is to check the fireing pin protrusion. Most Mosin have a strike mark on the cocking knob, in line with the screw dricer slot on the fireing pin that is threded to the cocking peice.
With your accessories there will be a srewdriver with slots and wrenching spaces to turn the firing pin to lengthen or shorten the strike against the primer.
You measure it by placing the pin in the middle slot and screw/unscrew till the pin just touches the gauge.
This is the only thing that can really be jacked with by a previous owner.
Factory refurbs are in spec, and your best bet with a straight outa the box, with cosmo and varnish protecting the metal and the wood.
Strip you rifle and remove all the cosmo with gasoline or other solvent, strip the wood with denatured alcohol. Then lightly oil the metal surfaces, lindseed oil the stock, and put it back together, no shanding required, no value lost, a great rifle at hand, ready to extend your Will at the pull of a trigger.

Clean it and do it again.

I have question about a certain variety of Mosin. I'm after the original: an m1891 with the bayonet. Does anyone here have an idea of just how much that will cost and what sort of difficulty I will have in finding one in fair shape?

@#$%^&**!! I was logged in and spent an hour crafting a detailed post' when I had finished and tried to post it The thing said I didn't have "permission" to refresh the page and log in. When I did my post was gone.

The lesson is if faced with a similar happening; copy your post so you can repost it. It is 1:30 am and I am going to bed. I will rewrite it later. Thanks for all the replies!

"@#$%^&**!!"

yep, I know what ya mean............

^ That's why I always copy a long post to my clipboard as a security feature.

MORE SPECIFFICS

Both rifles were bought from keep shooting.com. I would say they are arsenal refurbished, but I cannot detect the slightest sign of usage wear anywhere. The older one with the pinned sight base was made in 1930 at the Izhevsk arsenal and the stock is made much better than the one built by Tulla in 1934. That is the one that appears to have the sight base soldered on with no pins evident.

The barrel bands are spring steel and slide rearward until they are clicked into metal retainers slotted into and anchored in the wood of the stock.

The sling slots are faced with metal and are recessed slightly into the stock's surface. I don't know what keeps them in place.

The basic round receiver will cost you $85; $95 for the Hexagonal receiver (we bought the hex). For another $10 they will pull five of them out of the crate and select the best of the five for you.

Shipping was an additional (nearly) $13.

You have to have a FFL or a Collector's License to complete the transaction by yourself.