Disconnected
Before we get too hung up on exact dimensions, first take a look at the
disconnector's function...How it works and what it does. Then the need
for correct dimensions will be more clearly understood. With so many
manufacturers building the 1911 pattern pistol these days, the exact
length may not mean much on a given pistol anyway...So many things
being out of spec, the correct length can vary a little from gun to gun.
The critical dimension is from the tip of the disconnector stem to the
top of the paddle. The overall length can be within blueprint tolerances,
and still not work if the distance between these two areas is wrong
for the gun that is on the bench.
When the pistol is ready to fire, the top of the disconnector paddle
slips up between the trigger stirrup and the sear legs. If it didn't, the
trigger couldn't trip the sear, so it might actually be called a connector.
It fills up the open space between trigger and sear, and connects them
for firing.
When the pistol fires and the slide moves backward, the tip of the disconnector is pushed downward a little, and the top of the paddle drops below the sear legs, DIS-connecting them so that the sear will reset into
the hammer hooks. If the top of the disconnector is too short...or the distance between the top of the disconnector and the top edge of the
paddle is too short...the connection can't be broken, and the sear stays
forward until the trigger resets. When the gun fires in this condition, the
hammer will follow the slide.
So...the disconnector must move upward far enough to "connect" the trigger and sear, and downward far enough to disconnect them when the
slide moves.
If the distance between the top of the disconnector and the top of the paddle is too great, the disconnector can't move up far enough to make
the connection,and the hammer won't fall. In the case of a weak or overtweaked center sear spring leg, it will allow the sear to let go of the
hammer hooks, but not far enough to get past the half-cock notch because
it slips off the sear leg, and gets caught in the disconnected position.
If the distance between the disconnector's top and the paddle is too great, and the result is the hammer failing to fall, some misinformed guys will figure it out and file or stone the top of the disconnector to make it move hgher in the slot. Now the hammer will fall, but the disconnector doesn't move downward far enough to let the sear reset. What to do? If you don't
have a parts bin full of disconnectors to switch and swap until the one
of the right length can be found, the cure is to deepen the slot in the
slide with a tool made specifically for the purpose. A scrape that is of the
right width to fit the slot. The trick is to deepen the slot without making it longer. In some rare instances, making the slot a little longer forward is
called for. The disconnector's hole is drilled too far forward, and the top of the disconnector doesn't move into the slot in the right position. I've run
into this on a few Auto Ordnance pistols. Another fix is to remove a little metal from the rear radius of the disconnector, and use a center punch
to displace metal at the top of the hole to reposition the disconnector in
the slot. On some really bad examples, it takes a little of both. Better to
get a little out of two areas than a lot out of one.
It's important that the disconnector moves freely up and down in the
channel. If it gets into any bind, it may not move into and out of position
correctly.
Stay tuned...
Tuner