7.65 Browning vs. 32 ACP

[film495]

managed to take a run at some test load with 25 starline brass and 7 Fiocci brass I had on hand. Had planned on some Geco once fired, but did not get to it. Tried sizing some bullets down to .309, and at .978 things were inconsistent. About half of them did not go all the way into the chamber on plunk testing. They would plunk in and out fine and not stick, but they did not make it all the way into the chamber. The other half seemed good, not sure what the issue was, but all the ones that did not go all the way into the chamber seemed about the same, just enough of a gap at the rim to notice not all the way into the chamber. Either way I got about a dozen or so - that I think I can shoot as test loads.

For the Geco brass, think I'll try some with a shorter OAL, .965, and go with .311 bullets.

I pulled the bullets out of the ones that would not chamber and dumped the powder out of the cases. For the cases with primers in them, would you just take the decapping rod out of the sizer and resize and expand the brass with the primer in - or would you get the primers out and start over.

 

[fxvr5]

About half of them did not go all the way into the chamber on plunk testing. They would plunk in and out fine and not stick, but they did not make it all the way into the chamber.

These rounds clearly FAILED the plunk test because they did not go all the way into the chamber.

I pulled the bullets out of the ones that would not chamber and dumped the powder out of the cases. For the cases with primers in them, would you just take the decapping rod out of the sizer and resize and expand the brass with the primer in - or would you get the primers out and start over.

You need to determine WHY those rounds didn't fit. This is done before the bullets are pulled. Without doing this, you're guessing why they don't fit. That's why you have to do it before you disassemble them, then you will KNOW why they don't fit. With that information, you can change whatever is required so they will fit.

The instructions for this are in the plunk test link. Use the magic marker method. https://www.shootingtimes.com/editorial/reloading-tips-the-plunk-test/99389

 

[film495]

I should have done the ink test. I reviewed that article, and pretty sure I'm putting too much crimp on it. I did check several with just seating the bullet, and they were fine. Then after crimping - many of them short chambered, if that is the correct term - rim 1/64thish gap between rim and face of chamber where it should make contact. I did visually look at several and measure a lot, a few I could see the plating buckled from seating and crimping in the same step, some the diameter was wider about 1/8" below the mouth - smaller at the mouth and then also smaller where the base of the bullet is, so - likely small bulge. So, I have 2 things going on from the same cause is my working theory. I may completely separate seating and crimping steps; worked good with LSWC .38 Special, I don't think the plating on these bullets likes it.

 

[fxvr5]

The magic marker will tell you EXACTLY where the round is too big.

 

[Walkalong]

I could see the plating buckled from seating and crimping in the same step

Crimping too much in the same step, or if it could be from not enough belling, or both.

A separate crimp only die from Lee is about $12 and it's easier to set up without overdoing the crimp. Lot's of people over crimp auto calibers, they just get away with it.

pretty sure I'm putting too much crimp on it.

I have no doubt about that. Not hard to do, we see it all the time.

 

[film495]

Yea, thanks again for everyone's input on this. I'll have to keep working at it some more until I get it down. Funny how the first time you do things, just about anything you can get wrong you do, then after a couple times, the mistakes almost seem silly. On a side note - got the Daisy 880, went over it quick, got some BBs and some Pellets, gonna show the step son how to shoot at some tin cans when the wind here dies down some and it get a little warmer.

 

[Demi-human]

The magic marker will tell you EXACTLY where the round is too big.

He’s done it already.

. I inserted and pulled them several times, and wiggled them a little in the chamber just to see what markings would develop on the ink.

I did get a chance to turn the inked dummy rounds in the chamber with needle nose plyers, it didn't really tell me that much so -

Coming from the opposite end of it, I now understand your other thread.

When you get through this, and are about to fire your first round, just relax. There is some wiggle room. If you’ve actually read the loading manual and you are within closeness of anything, it will work.
Just shoot it.
You’re not the first one to do this on your own, even though you’re not really, you have The HighRoad, just like I have, it will work.
If your pistol will close and fire, Bingo! You got it! That, is functioning.

We are all on your side.
We want you to succeed.
We are not against you, and we don’t think your concerns are unfounded or silly.
Many veritable experts are behind you.
They want you to like this.

If you are earnest about this, and this is not some epic farce, you have a font of information regarding the 32 Auto laid out before you.

Have faith and, literally, pull the trigger!

You’ve played with the reloading toys, you know how they work.
Now give us a range report.
You can do it.

Dude, if my JackPine Savage, single dad of two, self can do it, you can.

 

[film495]

I should try the magic marker test again. It was hard to tell the first time I did it, and I've tried it once again since then, but probably have to go slower and think more about what I'm doing and looking at the sample pics in that article is helpful to understand what I'm looking for. First time I did it, I spun the cartridge in circles, next time I think I'll just turn it back and forth - then look for clear marks.

If it was easy - it would be that much less rewarding. Once the set up is complete - it should be repeatable and straight forward. So close.

 

[Walkalong]

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1016834814

Just enough taper "crimp" to remove the bell, no more. The taper crimp die will barely tough the round. You should barely feel it do anything.

 

[rfwobbly]

Just enough taper "crimp" to remove the bell, no more.

Which on 32ACP should bring the taper crimp in line with the rest of the cartridge case body. Something like 0.333".

 

[film495]

well, this was interesting .. and good

had 18 Geco once fired, so - prepped them and seated, plunked, crimped plunked - to test
all of the cases would plunk in and out before I flared the case mouth
about a little more than half would not plunk, and either just barely not chamber or stick after seating before crimping
after crimping all but 2 would plunk in and out perfectly - I just did a 1/4 turn, mild feel to it, but definitely crimping
measures about even to the rest of the case where the seated bullet is after crimping

I did the ink test on the 2 that would not plunk in and out, my 3rd time trying it and think I finally figured out how to it better


don't think you can see it in the picture, but both rounds had what appeared to me to be just a slight bulge right at that spot

I pulled these 2, resized, expanded, flared, charged with powder, seated bullet and crimped. redid the handful of Geco and Fiocchi cases I pulled before as well, didn't bother with the Starline - I already have about 20 Starline done to test, and I don't think they'll cycle in the gun correctly, but I'll try the ones I loaded to find out for sure. So, now have a box of 50 cartridges ready to go, mix of the Starline, Geco, and Fiocchi brass, a variety of 2, 2.1, 2.2, and 2.3 grains in each brand of brass. Next step, take these and the .38 Special loads I did with my log book to the range and see what happens.

 

[film495]

finally got around to uploading some pictures. these 2 cases would not plunk correctly, so I did the ink test again. The way this finally started to work and make sense for me, was to drop them in and then wiggle them back and forth holding the rim with needle nose plyers, turning maybe 1/8 or 1/4 inch back and forth 8 or 10 times.

I could not see the bulge by eye trying to figure out why they would not chamber fully, but sure enough there it is plain as day. A little experience says to me this is caused by trying to crimp a little too much, sometimes less is more.

I still have a batch of good test rounds to shoot, will get there when we see some more good weather.

 

[Walkalong]

A little experience says to me this is caused by trying to crimp a little too much, sometimes less is more.

I agree.

 

[rfwobbly]

Maybe Jake and the RMR crew will someday get off their collective duffs and work up some 32 cal FMJs at their usual high quality and reasonable prices. I mean, enough already with the 3 hour lunch breaks and banker's hours. Really !!