AR muzzle device with the least blast to shooter

Status
Not open for further replies.
Unless someone decides you just made a two chamber suppressor...
For the expressed purpose of quieting a firearm.:(

I don't know how it works, I'm just saying, be careful.

Perhaps @MachIVshooter could shed some light on the subject...

Yeah........it's probably not a good idea

18 U.S.C., § 921(A)(24)


The term “Firearm Silencer” or “Firearm Muffler” means any device for silencing, muffling, or diminishing the report of a portable firearm, including any combination of parts, designed or redesigned, and intended for the use in assembling or fabricating a firearm silencer or firearm muffler, any part intended only for use in such assembly or fabrication.

If you're not in a restricted state, just suck it up and pay the tax, buy a can or Form 1 kit. You'll be glad you did.
 
Bloop tubes or fake suppressors didnt seem to do much for me. Only thing I found that worked was a blast deflection cup (for lack of a better term). The one I had threaded onto the muzzle and was roughly an inch wide hole with a 2 inch length. Seemed to aim the noise down range.

Proper Bloop tubes used in Olympic style shooting are as you describe, roughly 1” diameter with an open end, but 4-6” long, rather than only 2”.
 
Proper Bloop tubes used in Olympic style shooting are as you describe, roughly 1” diameter with an open end, but 4-6” long, rather than only 2”.
But...that doesn't do anything really to make it more quite for the shooter does it?
 
But...that doesn't do anything really to make it more quite for the shooter does it?

Yes. 1) Letting down the gas velocity reduces the pressure differential impulse. 2) Carrying the expanding gases forward again for 6” directs the sound away from the shooter moreso than simply blasting outward at the muzzle.

If you’ve ever been around one, the difference in report when shooting a true bloop tube is obvious.

Cut the bottom of a pop bottle away and slip it over your muzzle. Hear that differential. A 3/4” piece of pipe about 8” long offers the same. These aren’t baffled, so they’re not designed to muffle the sound - constituting a suppressor, but rather this will give you an idea of the influence when a bloop tube reduces the letdown decompression and helps direct blast away from the shooter.
 
Last edited:
Okay, thanks for the info. There is another muzzle attachment which is basically a 7" tube, though you can put an end cap on which has an opening about a 9mm sized hole or so.

Here's the link to it. How would this do?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/MADE-IN-USA-223-556-Barrel-Extended-Thread-Protector-1-2x28-Muzzle-Brake-3PCS/254283754167?_trkparms=aid=111001&algo=REC.SEED&ao=1&asc=20160908105057&meid=8f01f6260ec3406b9c393cdf83986773&pid=100675&rk=2&rkt=15&mehot=pp&sd=172974300707&itm=254283754167&pg=2481888&_trksid=p2481888.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci:20a3c575-c3c8-11e9-9acf-74dbd180cdd9|parentrq:b254b68e16c0a9e42a4a7084fff78aca|iid:1

I'm only wanting to use the rifle for scope type shooting. No "clearing rooms" type of rifle.


This was my other option:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Strike-Ind...-138-works-w-1-2x28-TPI-Comps-CA/113302070683
Then with the MI Blast diverter:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/MIDWEST-IN...DIVERTER-1-2-28-THREADS-5-56-223/172974300707
But I guess this is what could [absurdly] get me into possible trouble....somehow. I still don't get it. There are no baffles and not sure how this would be much different than a 20" barrel with the MI on the end.
 
But there is a baffle.
From the barrels muzzle inside your extension to the back of the compensator.

For a two hundred dollar stamp you could do all that and more, with the added insurance of never losing your "right" to own firearms.

Don't get me wrong, I feel this is completely absurd as well.
Further, I feel screwing a three dollar oil filter on the end of a barrel shouldn't be a felony either.

But, it is.:(
 
Varminterror, I use foam ear plugs and ear muffs. I've developed sensitive hearing so can't do firearms with loud bangs. I had to sell a 38 Special cowboy type open top revolver because of that. A 9mm pistol walks the line of "too loud". If I can't get the AR down to a reasonable level, I'll just have to sell it.

So, as for my previous post, the first link, would that be sufficient?
 
I'll second Someguy2800's recommendation of a generic krinkov brake. I've got one on my 7.5" and 10.5" ARs, and they make a huge difference. They're around for less than $30 as well.
 
I have used Kaw Valley and I put Kinetitec on my 3 gun rigs.

I like kinetitec because it's a brake with an optional sleeve that turns it into more of a linear comp.

So I get the brake when I want it and a the nicer shooting experience when I am plinking and such.
 
I’ve noticed on eBay lately there are sellers selling “fuel filters” that are %100 crappy aluminum silencers. Search fuel filter 1/2-28. Now, if you bought one and discarded the guts and the end cap you’d have a nice bloop tube. However I’m not sure you’d want to buy one at all.
 
It doesn't make sense, but when we tested the levang linear compansator on identical ar15s with 16" barrels, the levang was louder to the shooter and the 3 guys standing behind the shooters than an a2 birdcage. I do think kcthe shorter the barrel, the more benefit you would receive from a linear compansator.
A 20" ar with a bare muzzle was quieter than a 16" by a noticable amount. And a bolt action 20" was quieter than the 20" ar.
 
For those that have not seen one a Krink or Krinkov brake is not just a tube, there is a baffle that screws in the end. It acts essentially like a mini suppressor, but are not regulated because they don’t moderate enough sound to be considered a suppressor. Their original purpose was as a gas booster to help cycle AK47 pistol called a krinkov, hence the name.

They knock the report of a 223 or 7.62x39 down to about like a 45acp pistol. Still not hearing safe, but doesn’t ring your ears if you have to take a shot without protection. I have one on my 10” 9mm AR pistol and that is almost hearing safe. Not much more than a 22 rifle.

150D9005-7AE4-411E-B3B1-FC53B7120DA9.jpeg
 
So, as for my previous post, the first link, would that be sufficient?

Personally, I’m not a fan, at any level, of fake suppressors. I would guess, however, that particular unit would be ok - I would shoot it without the front baffle, as that baffle creates another region of higher velocity at the muzzle, and creates turbulence which will vent less uniformly away from the shooter than if fired without the cap.
 
The good versions of the Krink brake work pretty good at redirection of sound down range. My favorite is the Noveske Flaming Pig which I have used more than a decade of short barrel AR types and An AK with great results. Also Spikes Barking Spider works well on my 10 " .300 BO for same purpose. Try Claymore works as well as any linear ported type for sound redirection but no where near what the ones I mentioned do.
NVK-KX5_1__43531.1536091430.jpg images?q=tbn:ANd9GcSIZhllXm88lmqVOBgSHmcTQQ5sgdTd13tLKuYMKm29DbVe39_1uw.jpg
16694918416_b9ff978f8f_c.jpg
 
So,...I took my AR [16" with Smith Vortex] to the range today. Shot a whole 2 rounds. Kinda wanting to remember the blasts. It's just on the other side of "too uncomfortable".

So,...if I have a 20" and a forward blow comp, should it be noticeable enough on the blast,......or should I hang it up all together?
 
:confused:

Hang it.
Perhaps a trade for something quiet, like a Three Fifty Seven Magnum revolver...

That's a pistol, they're quieter.

o_O





When you don't know something, there's nothing quite like finding out for your self. Many have said it would reduce the muzzle blast. Not on an order of magnitude, noticeably.
If there is no one whom you can borrow a similar setup from and try it, the only thing left to do is buy or build.
Plug and muff when shooting.
Investigate parasympathetic response.
 
Last edited:
LOL.......357. Those are crazy loud. But I get the joke.

It kinda sucks when you become adversely affected by something you've had for a long time. Oh well........
 
If you were nearby I’d swap mine onto a 16” for you to try. Honestly I think it makes a difference and worth a few dollars to find out. What you spend will be far more than what you lose monetarily and otherwise if you part ways with it.
 
True, Skylerbone. Especially in today's climate. ARs are not selling...and when they do, they are not going for much. That's why I was wondering if 20" and a forward blast would be enough of a difference. As I said, the 16" with Smith Vortex is riding just over the line...and if another setup would be less blast for me, I will keep it.
 
LOL.......357. Those are crazy loud. But I get the joke.

It kinda sucks when you become adversely affected by something you've had for a long time. Oh well........

I agree.
The whistle from the Freud brand table saw blades is mind shattering for me any more. Half of it is mental conditioning over the years. It IS unpleasant. Your brain doesn't like it, even if your ego can talk it's way through it.
(Luckily it stops when the wood hits it.)

I encourage you to try the new setup.


Or perhaps a straight trade for a turn bolt with a much longer barrel. A linear compensator works just as well on a threaded muzzle bolt action...
 
Demi-human, yeah, I could trade it out for a threaded bolt gun with a much longer barrel. Maybe one that even takes AR magazines. Then throw the linear comp on that and I bet I would be fine. Good suggestion.

Any particular brand a good choice?
 
Have you tried nothing at all on the end of your barrel, except maybe a thread protector?

I was also looking into a muzzle device that sends noise and blast forward but decided to just hold off. I have just finished building an AR. I took it to an indoor range with just the thread protector on the barrel and it wasn’t bad at all. At least not as bad as a brake.

Just a thought. At least until you find what you need.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top