Crack in stock

[Idaho shooter]

My Pedersoli Hawken has developed a crack in the toe of the stock. I would like to fix it myself, but am unsure as to what would be the best method: glue and clamp, glue with wood peg for strength, or perhaps glue with brass screw for strength. Any of you guys repaired something like this? How did it work?

 

[243winxb]

A photo would help.

If possible, remove the butt plate/recoil pad. Drill 1/8" hole or 2 down into the crack. Work some Brownell's Acraglas (liquid) down to the crack with a tooth pick. Acraglas should seep out of the crack. Wipe with petroleum jelly. Pull crack together with rubber bands.

Any apoxy should work that has a longer cure time.

 

[Malachi Leviticus Blue]

I would use a type 2 (waterproof) glue and clamp it. A hypodermic needle can be used to get the glue into the crack if required. It should end up at least as strong as before if done well.

 

[whughett]

A TC Cherokee I owned had a crack in the left side of the stock at the wrist. I drilled a 1/8 hole a 1/2 deep downwards thru the crack in to the stock and epoxied a brass rod in. I was able to open the crack a bit by removing the barrel and applying some down ward pressure to the fore end, allowing me to get glue into the crack. After 24 hours I finished down the brass rod flush with the wood.

 

[ThomasT]

My brand new to me in 2002 Marlin 357 had a tiny crack in the wrist area at the tang. Marlin sent a new buttstock but the butt and forearm didn't match. So I opened the crack just a tiny bit and used thin CA (super glue) and soaked the crack area and then clamped. Sixteen years later and no problems.

I bought a Marlin model 75C from a seller in the local paper for $50. When I got it home and looked in good light the stock had been broke through the wrist all the way through and who ever did the repair did a very neat job. They had also put a screw in under the trigger guard. I removed the screw and drilled the hole out a tad bigger and epoxied a steel rod in the hole. Seems solid to me.

 

[troy fairweather]

sometimes the best way to fix a crack in the toe is to brake it of completely then u can glue it good. the peace will fit better, use some elastic bands to hold the wood tight together. the one they use to draw blood work great and glue wont stick. some photos will help.

 

[Mizar]

For small fresh cracks CA glue is my go to choice, but do consider that not all CA glues (Cyanoacrylate, Super Glue) are created equal - I have used Loctite 420 with good success and would highly recommend it for such applications. The toe of the stock is not a load bearing part, so no reinforcement should be needed.

 

[ThomasT]

Mizar you are correct. The stuff they sell at grocery store or the big box stores may be really old and weak. I build RC models and buy it from the hobby store where the stock is fresh from the turnover. I like the Bob Smith made glue or the Zap brand. Goldberg is also good glue if you can find it.

 

[Idaho shooter]

My Pedersoli Hawken has developed a crack in the toe of the stock. I would like to fix it myself, but am unsure as to what would be the best method: glue and clamp, glue with wood peg for strength, or perhaps glue with brass screw for strength. Any of you guys repaired something like this? How did it work?

Ok, repaired the crack using Accraglass, small brass screw, and clamp. Still don’t have a clue as to what caused it. My understanding is that the butt plate is supposed to prevent this. Any ideas?

 

[arcticap]

The grain of the wood, shock transfer, flaws in the grain either from before it was finished or during the drying process, warpage?
Our club used to provide pieces of carpet to rest the butt stocks on during loading
What kind of surface do you load on?
Even though it's a Pedersoli, it's still a mass produced gun.
Even expensive mass produced guns do not warranty wood gun stocks or grips, and there's a reason for that.
They can't see or predict every flaw that's in the grain or below the surface, how it will be stored or when it will warp or crack.

 

[J-Bar]

Longitudinal crack in buttstock of a Winchester '97 shotgun, buttplate removed.

Hog out a trench perpendicular to the crack on the hidden surface (in this case under the buttplate) deep enough to allow the threaded shaft of a wood screw to be driven into the wood. (I used a Dremel.). Pound that sucker in there so the threads are seated deeply into the wood. Cover the screw with epoxy. In my case illustration, there was a crack on both sides of the stock. Refinish the crack with fillers if you want, but it will not get worse.

 

[troy fairweather]

The grain of the wood, shock transfer, flaws in the grain either from before it was finished or during the drying process, warpage?
Our club used to provide pieces of carpet to rest the butt stocks on during loading
What kind of surface do you load on?
Even though it's a Pedersoli, it's still a mass produced gun.
Even expensive mass produced guns do not warranty wood gun stocks or grips, and there's a reason for that.
They can't see or predict every flaw that's in the grain or below the surface, how it will be stored or when it will warp or crack.

the toe cracking is one of the most common places for a stock to crack, it follows the grian and spits. most times it at the bottom and will crack a plastic but plate.

 

[paul harm]

Nice idea JBar. I would have used some type of glue/ CA in the crack first and wrapped it with some surgical tubing. For cracks in the wrist area I drill small holes and use headless machine screws, maybe a # 4 or 5 [ or cut the heads off ]. Counter sink them enough so they can't be seen and mix some dye with accruglass to go over them. When hard, scratch with a pin to stimulate the grain and use a little darker dye in the scratch. Then ruff it up a bit so it isn't glossy. Play around a little and someone else will never see it. I have a 1894 Remington SxS and after owning it for 2 years finally noticed a pin going through the panels behind the action. Whoever did it did one great job of hiding it.

 

[Loyalist Dave]

Yeah I've had some pretty banged up examples of Jap and Pedersoli muskets that I fixed over the years, and a few modern built long rifles. Whenever possible I go "in" from under a piece of metal hardware like the butt plate, or inside where the lock goes into the wood. Then Acraglass with a wood screw, or sometimes insert a piece of hardwood dowel with the epoxy, depending on location and if the repair will interfere with placing the metal part back into place.

LD

 

[Jackrabbit1957]

Another fix for the toe area would be to install a toe plate.