Varminterror
Member
- Joined
- Jul 17, 2016
- Messages
- 14,941
Considering that most revolvers are kind of a pain in the butt to open and get to the lock work...
Ya lost me on this part...
Considering that most revolvers are kind of a pain in the butt to open and get to the lock work...
I let a drop or two of oil run down the front of the cocked hammer after a normal cleaning (cylinder and barrel). I figure it will soon migrate into most of the nooks and crannies that are difficult to get to.
Same here. I do the same at the cylinder stop as well, and then slowly rotate the gun in a circular motion to allow the oil to migrate. Haven't had a problem.I let a drop or two of oil run down the front of the cocked hammer after a normal cleaning (cylinder and barrel). I figure it will soon migrate into most of the nooks and crannies that are difficult to get to.
WD40 may be the absolute WORST material deliberately applied to any firearm. And there have plenty of explanations on this forum why that is so.The first thing I do with a new revolver (S&W) I remove the sideplate spray cleaner, let dry, spray with WD-40 Dri Lube, let evaporate and reassemble.
I am amazed at the amount of junk that comes out of a brand new S&W.
WD40 may be the absolute WORST material deliberately applied to any firearm. And there have plenty of explanations on this forum why that is so.
If you are going to use grease it had better be a HIGH quality synthetic that remains fluid in cold weather and applied SPARINGLY. Nothing substitutes for proper cleaning and lubricating on some kind of a regular basis depending on usage, environment, storage etc.
But if you have never disassembled a revolver, by all means do so to learn how things fit together.