First Ruger 10/22

DMW1116

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Oct 10, 2020
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I posted a while back about choosing between a 10/22 and a Savage MkII for supplementing my centerfire rifles. I ended up with a 10/22 in stainless steel. Don’t think I won’t snag a MkII if given the chance, especially a lefty one.

I’ve really just begun getting used to it and took it out for its second range trip. I also bought a couple Ruger factory 25 round magazines. I gathered an assortment of my available 22 ammo and decided to see what it likes. On its first trip I fitted up a Simmons 4x scope on the provided scope rail and roughly zeroed it.

After shooting 5 shot groups of 5 different ammo types, I think we have a winner.
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I’m going to call that flier an issue with the nut behind the trigger.

In order from worst to best I tried Blazer, Automatch, Aguila SE SV, Norma Target (1080 fps), and CCI SV. Only the Blazer group was unacceptably large.
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That’s ok though. I use it for my SW22 pistol. The only thing I didn’t try that I have in hand is Aguila SE HV. It shoots best from my Henry and Marlin 60 (Oak Leaf). I was aiming at the orange dot, and by the end I had the scope basically zeroed, though each ammo type will require slight adjustment.

One thing I’m quite impressed by is the reliability so far. I’ve only put about 100 rounds or less through it but it hasn’t jammed yet. The original 10 round and both 25 round magazines worked every time. I have some Federal bulk and Remington Thunderbolt but I kinda have them for specific purposes, so don’t know if I’ll use them in this gun.

Eventually I plan to add some sort of aperture sights to trim up the profile and allow me to practice with iron sights to mimic my 20” AR. This scope will probably go back on my Oak Leaf Marlin 60.
 
It is always fun sighting in a new rifle and seeing what it likes. I have a 10/22 carbine that has had 1 round shot through it and needs to be set up soon. I also have an older built up one that gets plenty of exercise. I also have an Oak Leaf "Glenfield" and several other Marlin, Remington, Winchester, Savage/Springfield, and Mossberg rimfires. Love them all...
 
The tube fed Marlins are my standard. The Henry H001 runs anything I put through it. The Marlins seem picky but they’re also 40 years old. One has a scope and will shoot CCI SV at 100 yards like the 10/22 at 50. The other 60 has some issues with the trigger and maybe needs recrowning.
 
I ended up with a 10/22 in stainless steel
Congratulations!

After shooting 5 shot groups of 5 different ammo types, I think we have a winner
Same experience with me. After shooting over 10,000 rounds capturing every 5/10 shot groups at 50/100 yards, CCI SV consistently produced smallest groups of 1/2" consistently followed by Blazer/Aguila 40 gr LRN and Aguila 40 gr CPRN to 3/4" at 50 yards - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/real-world-accurizing-22lr-on-the-cheap.898035/

I’m going to call that flier an issue with the nut behind the trigger
Could be your trigger needing break-in/trigger job. My 10/22 and Take Down triggers were 7.5 lbs new and decreased to 4.5 lbs after 3500 rounds. Unless you have a lot of money to blow on ammunition just to smooth the trigger parts, I highly recommend the Volquartsen trigger kit that will reduce trigger pull down to 2.5 lbs for very reasonable $43 - https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1004752381/

After I installed the Volquartsen trigger kit, group size shrank but as some members posted, I still got some non-trigger induced flyers that were caused by non-captured firing pin and factory bolt. As many on Rimfirecentral.com recommended, I sent off my factory bolt to CPC for $50 pinning of firing pin and machining of the bolt and flyers decreased significantly - https://www.ct-precision.com/1022rework.html

FYI, I outlined my accurizing journey on this thread - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...22lr-on-the-cheap.898035/page-2#post-12176951

Note the below 50 yard groups with green circle representing POA. Aguila 40 gr CPRN was used to zero scope with last two 10 shot groups shrinking down to 3/4" (Each square is 1"). CCI SV groups were 1/2" and slightly larger than 1/2". I always start and finish with Aguila 40 gr CPRN to detect any loosening of scope/mount bolts and bottom right Aguila group is fairly consistent with group size it usually produce (Shooter fatigue usually kicks in by end of each shooting cluster and I need to take a break before the next target).

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After a break, I shot the bottom row groups (Didn't want to waste another target so I reused the initial target used to zero the scope shown on top row ... Yeah, call me cheap :))

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In order from worst to best I tried Blazer, Automatch, Aguila SE SV, Norma Target (1080 fps), and CCI SV. Only the Blazer group was unacceptably large ... Federal bulk and Remington Thunderbolt but I kinda have them for specific purposes, so don’t know if I’ll use them in this gun.
After shooting over 40,000 rounds of 30+ brands/weights/lots of ammunition, I have found CCI SV and Blazer 40 gr LRN to consistently produce the smallest groups (1/2" @ 50 yards) followed by Aguila LRN/CPRN (3/4" @ 50 yards, 1"-1.25" @ 100 yards). Federal bulk (Blue and Red boxes, old/new lots) consistently produced larger than 1.5"-2" groups with Thunderbolt occasionally producing smaller 1" groups - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...t-shipped-pricing.902560/page-5#post-12304852

These are composite listing from smallest to largest group size averaged over 10,000 round testing and I will be conducting update testing with newer lots of same ammunition with about 10 more different brands/weights of ammunition to add to the listing once the rain season stops.
  1. CCI Standard Velocity 40 gr LRN (New) - Boxed (Around 1/2")
  2. CCI Standard Velocity 40 gr LRN (Old) - Boxed - Consistent group size (Around 1/2" - 3/4")
  3. CCI Blazer 40 gr LRN - Boxed - Consistent group size (Around 1/2" - 3/4")
  4. Norma Tac-22 40 gr LRN - Boxed - Based on initial testing 1/2"-3/4" groups (Testing to continue)
  5. Aguila 40 gr LRN (Eley Prime) - Boxed - Consistent group size (No longer produced)
  6. Aguila 40 gr LRN (Aguila Prime, New) - Boxed - Consistent group size (Larger than 1/2" to 3/4")
  7. Aguila 40 gr LRN (Aguila Prime, Old) - Boxed - Consistent group size (Larger than 1/2" to 3/4")
  8. Aguila 40 gr CPRN (Eley Prime) - Boxed - Consistent group size (No longer produced)
  9. Aguila 40 gr CPRN (Aguila Prime) - Boxed - Consistent group size (3/4"-1")
  10. Aguila 40 gr LRN Pistol Match - Boxed, Consistent group size around (3/4"-1")
  11. Aguila 40 gr CPRN - 250 round Loose Bulk - Based on initial testing sub 1" to 1.25"
  12. Aguila 38 gr CPRN - 250 round Loose Bulk - Based on initial testing around 1"
  13. Federal Auto Match 40 gr LRN - Loose Bulk - Group size varied
  14. Aguila 38 gr CPHP - Boxes - Group size varied
  15. Federal Game Shok 40 gr CPRN - Boxed - Fairly consistent group size
  16. Federal Field Pack 38 gr CPHP - Loose Bulk - Group size varied
  17. Remington Golden Bullet 36 gr CPHP - Loose Bulk - Fairly consistent group size
  18. Remington Thunderbolt 40 gr LRN - Loose Bulk - Small to large groups with flyers
  19. Armscor 36 gr CPHP - Boxed - Varying group size with flyers
  20. Federal Champion 40 gr LRN - Boxed - Group size varied
  21. Federal Value 36 gr CPHP 525 Blue Box (Old) - Loose Bulk - Group size varied
  22. Federal Value 36 gr CPHP 525 Blue Box (New) - Loose Bulk - Group size varied
  23. Federal Value 36 gr CPHP 550 Walmart Red Box (Old) - Loose Bulk - Group size varied
  24. Federal Value 36 gr CPHP 550 Walmart Red Box (New) - Loose Bulk - Group size varied
  25. Winchester XPert 36 gr LRN 500 - Loose Bulk - Group size varied
  26. Winchester 36 gr CPHP 555 - Loose Bulk - Group size varied
  27. Winchester M22 40 gr CPRN 500 - Loose Bulk - Group size varied with flyers
 
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I plan to install the Volquartzen trigger upgrade. I might do that before I add the aperture sights as it’s cheaper. I also plan to get a case rim thickness gage and see if separating already preferred ammo by rim thickness makes a big enough difference to justify the effort.

This version apparently just doesn’t like the Blazer. My SW22 shoots it pretty well and cycles it more reliably that others, so I keep some around. I may try again and give the Blazer another chance.
 
If you follow @LiveLife (and my) upgrades, I will offer condolences to your wallet….:what:
Actually, spending around $100 ($43 for trigger kit and $50 for bolt work) for almost MOA 22LR semi-auto 10/22 with non-match ammo CCI SV and Aguila 40 gr "bulk" boxed ammo is fairly easy on the wallet or allows you to save money for a better scope. :)

Below is 100 yard groups with Aguila 40 gr CPRN testing $150 Viridian Serac 30mm tube 6-24x50mm turret tracking (Yes, shooter next to me was load developing Savage 110 Precision in .300 PRC with Arken EP5 scope and was getting larger than my groups :p ... He mumbled something about I was using a lead sled but he was using a bipod :D) - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...-focus-sfp-long-range-reticle-for-150.900740/

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Can you elaborate on the bolt work and why it helps?
It was explained on THR and Rimfirecentral.com that mass produced factory bolt without pinned firing pin can go into battery uneven/not square and off axis impact on rim of case to misalign the chambered case/not produce consistent priming compound ignition to induce flyers (Or something to that effect ... Someone more familiar/informed could perhaps do a better job of explaining).

Key is, after you do the trigger job/kit upgrade/replacement and still get flyers, having your bolt worked on by CPC or replacing with CNC machined bolt will help and I did both to compare - I sent my factory 10/22 bolt to CPC and also bought Power Custom Match 10/22 bolt for T/CR22 that has removable stock insert to accommodate bull barrel - https://eabco.com/hybrid-match-ruger-10-22-bolt-accuracy-tuned/

Power Custom Hybrid Match Ruger 10/22 Bolt - Accuracy Tuned and CNC Machined to Minimum Tolerances

Hybrid Match 10/22 Bolt combines the precision of CNC machining with accuracy enhancing parts and tune-up techniques. Drop-in fit... Just replace your bolt with this one.

CNC Precision Machined Features:

- Pinned Firing Pin Positioner: Stabilizes the firing pin for consistent hit position shot after shot. Consistency means accuracy. Factory bolts are peened with a hammer and punch.
- Precision Machined Headspace: The breech face is machined to give exactly .044" headspace. This is the optimum headspace for close but proper fitting of ammo and best accuracy. (Factory bolts are sintered metal moldings that have much looser headspace tolerances).
- CNC Tuned Firing Pin Protrusion: The firing pin protrudes exactly .040". This assures consistent ignition and minimizes rim distortion... Both conditions that enhance accuracy.

Accuracy Enhancement Parts:

- Titanium Firing Pin Fitted and Tuned: A lighter firing pin moves quicker and produces a faster "lock time" which gives better accuracy. Titanium is lighter than factory firing pins. This one is installed and tuned for consistent and reliable performance.
- Titanium Claw Extractor Fitted and Tuned: Light, fast extractor beats the factory part in reliability. This one is fitted for smooth and consistent rim engagement... That's optimum for accuracy. A higher spring tension assures you of reliable ejection.​

BTW, work CPC did to my bolt with detailed pictures (I also got EDM tool steel extractor for $10) - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...22lr-on-the-cheap.898035/page-2#post-12206435
  • Bolt is disassembled and ultrasonically cleaned.
  • Headspace is surface ground and squared to a .0425 rim depth, the same as a bolt action rifle to tweak in a little accuracy.
  • A hole is "E.D.M.'ed", a hardened ground solid dowel pin is pressed in over the top of the front of the firing pin ... This new dowel pin keeps the front of firing pin from raising up and causing flyers and gives more consistent firing pin strikes.
  • Firing pin is reworked and surface ground flat.
  • Rear / bottom of bolt body is full radiused for smoother/better bolt function with standard and high velocity ammo's.
  • Bolt rework is $43 plus $7 flat rate Priority Mail ... Add $10 for CPC EDM tool steel extractor ... turnaround is approximately 2 1/2 weeks or less after it arrives.
So did CPC reworked bolt and Power Custom Match bolt reduce flyers?

Yes. CPC cost is $50 and Power Custom Match bolt is $124.
 
I put this WGRS sight on mine:

View attachment 1147354

It needed a taller front sight, but it came with one that was just like the old one but taller.

I'd prefer a flat top blade instead of a bead front, but I used the one that came with the Williams sight because it was on hand.

Nice that they included a new front sight with the rear sight. I'd been doing gun work for many years, but don't recall seeing "dual" sight packages.
 
Ok. That all makes sense. I’ll look into the machining work. If that was indeed a user induced flier that a little trigger work will take care of, I’ll be fine with it as it is. I need to try the Aguila SE HV and see how it does. Other than a dud every now and then, it typically does pretty well. The only ammo I’ve tried without duds has been CCI. Which reminds me, I have a couple boxes of MiniMags to try as well.
 
I’ll look into the machining work. If that was indeed a user induced flier that a little trigger work will take care of, I’ll be fine with it as it is.
During my accurizing 10/22 and T/CR22, I found there are shooting variables to affect group size and flyers in addition to shooter induced pulling/pushing of trigger you may find interesting to try also as they are low cost/free:

Free floating of barrel - Carbine/rifle barrels vibrate and if contact with stock prevents this natural vibration, bullets may exit the muzzle at larger whip of vibration to produce larger groups or smaller groups if contact with stock reduces vibrational whip of muzzle. If free-floated barrel vibrates with closer to zero node at muzzle, then free-floating of barrel will reduce group size. And also note that amount of vibration or frequency of modulation is affected by ammunition and cold vs warm barrel (I usually shoot 300-500+ rounds per session so I always shoot a few magazines worth to warm up the barrel before shooting for groups for "real world" testing).

There is only one way to find out ... Shoot comparison groups with/without free-floating the barrel with warm barrel (Cold if you don't shoot much as group size can increase as barrel gets warm/hot). I free-floated the barrel by placing different thickness plastic shim under the V-block until I could freely slide sheet of copy paper around the barrel. For 10/22 Collector #3 that came without barrel band but with fullsize polymer modular stock that pressed hard on the barrel and free-floating decreased the group size with cold/warm barrel. T/CR22 with removable stock insert for bull barrel, free-floating by removing the stock insert made less of a difference in group size.

So depending on the vibrational harmonics of your barrel, free-floating or restraining the barrel may produce smaller groups so try shooting both ways and end up with whichever produces smaller groups with cold/warm barrel.

Bedding of receiver - 10/22 receiver is held by one bolt under the V-block and if there is play around the rear of receiver, trigger pull/push could move the rear of receiver around to move muzzle left/right for shooters to deem as "flyers" (And why loose stock mounting comes with barrel band ... to reduce this play ;)).

So with plans to bed the receiver more permanently as my Collector #3/fullsize modular stock did not come with barrel band and free-floating the barrel decreased group size, I tried 1-2 strips of electrical tape of around 4" in length to wrap the rear of receiver for tighter fit. Well, the electrical tape "bedding" of receiver worked so well to secure the play/movement of rear that my left/right "flyers" reduced significantly and I decided to just keep using electrical tape.

Break-in of factory trigger/Volquartsen trigger kit - I found trigger break-in/wear to be the biggest shooting variable to reduce my group size after barrel was free-floated and receiver bedded/secured. Out of the box, 10/22 had 7.5 lb trigger and T/CR22 had 6.0 lb trigger. After break-in of shooting several thousand rounds, 10/22 went down to 4.5 lbs and T/CR22 4.0 lbs.

$43 Volquartsen trigger kit is much cheaper/better option than shooting several thousand rounds as 2.5 lb trigger pull is way better than 4.5 lb broke-in factory trigger that still added input to trigger to move the muzzle. What about BX trigger replacement? From various reports (And I thought about going with BX trigger while considering KIDD/Volquartsen kits), BX trigger is around 2.5-3 lbs out of the box but costs more than Volquartsen trigger kit. After doing the Volquartsen kit, I am glad I did. What about KIDD trigger? There are many very good reports but it costs more.

Did 7.5 lb factory trigger affect group size? Absolutely as broken in 4.5 lb trigger reduced group size significantly (Dollar/half dollar size groups at 50 yards down to quarter ... No joke) and after Volquartsen trigger kit of 2.5 lbs, group size shrank further (nickel/penny size) BUT the occasional flyers persisted.

Factory bolt rework by CPC/Power Custom CNC machined Match bolt with pinned firing pin - Match shooters on THR like @Picher and many on Rimfirecentral.com explained why unpinned firing pin and not square mass produced factory bolt would cause first chambered round flyers and subsequent misaligned primed rim strikes.

To test this, I initially swapped bolt from T/CR22 which has enhanced/accurized components out of the box. Well, T/CR22 bolt improved flyers on 10/22 so I guess the old masters knew what they were talking about. So as recommended, I sent off my factory 10/22 bolt to CPC for rework and extractor replacement (I plan on shooting my 10/22 A LOT) and ordered Power Custom Match bolt ($124 was the most expensive accurizing mod followed by KSA bull barrel).

So did CPC reworked bolt and PC CNC Match bolts reduce flyers? Yes, they sure did.

Do I still get flyers? Very seldom as free-floated barrel, electrical tape bedded receiver and now 2.25 lb Volquartsen trigger with Viridian 30mm tube Serac scope bolts Loktited, I now can tell whether the slight deviation from POA left/right was me or wind. :) How about vertical dispersion? I attribute that to muzzle velocity variation and bullet drop as CCI SV which I use for chrono verification as muzzle velocities are consistent with low SD, produce consistently "round shaped" groups where Aguila 40 gr LRN/CPRN produce more vertical spread at 50 yards.

What's next? I am thinking about trying barrel tuners but the factory 10/22 barrel is shooting so well and the chamber/rifling looks prestine even after 6500 rounds (I don't clean my barrels ... I dry patch with Viva Cloth paper towel and run copper bore brush every 2000 rounds with 3 passes only mopped with Hoppes #9 from chamber to muzzle ... and none of my barrels have any leading) that I am thinking about doing nothing more.
 
So even though my version has the front barrel band, it can be free floated?

I’ll start with the trigger and free floating may be the next step. The accuracy shown above is more than adequate for the iron sighted, 60 yard silhouette competitions I want to do with it and as a trainer. If I wanted to turn it into a 100 yard rifle for scoped silhouette shooting (100 yards), I’d have to reconfigure it maybe. A new barrel might even be in order if it went that route.
 
The tube fed Marlins are my standard. The Henry H001 runs anything I put through it. The Marlins seem picky but they’re also 40 years old. One has a scope and will shoot CCI SV at 100 yards like the 10/22 at 50. The other 60 has some issues with the trigger and maybe needs recrowning.

I like my Marlin tube feds also. But I'm fully aware the extractors won't last as long as it will in my 10/22.
 
One thing I’m quite impressed by is the reliability so far. I’ve only put about 100 rounds or less through it but it hasn’t jammed yet. The original 10 round and both 25 round magazines worked every time. I have some Federal bulk and Remington Thunderbolt but I kinda have them for specific purposes, so don’t know if I’ll use them in this gun.

The only failures I've had in any of my 10/22's have been Thunderbolts and Win Wildcats. You can hear it when it happens: a weak "pop" instead of a sharp "crack". I've not had an actual squib, it just doesn't cycle the bolt far enough to extract the empty.
 
So even though my version has the front barrel band, it can be free floated?
Give it a try and see if free-floating the barrel decreases group size. But I would make sure the rear of receiver was well secured if I was removing the barrel band.

A new barrel might even be in order if it went that route.
That's what I thought but I am sure surprised by accuracy and durability produced by factory 10/22 barrel. I see people just swapping out barrels before even testing for accuracy expecting barrel swap would magically produce 1/2" groups at 50 yards. I would first test the barrel for accuracy while accurizing the rest of rifle (Trigger, free-float barrel, bedding rear of receiver, V block replacement, 20 MOA scope rail for scope use, etc.)

And I found my 10/22 factory barrel to prefer 40 gr bullets with longer base for greater accuracy over 38/36 gr bullets. As already posted, CCI SV/Blazer and Aguila LRN/CPRN produced smallest consistent groups and definitely boxed over loose bulk packaging as Aguila/Blazer now come in both packages.
 
My pal had a squib with Thunderbolt in his AR7. It did eject the case, but left the bullet in the bore. Shooting a scope at 100yds, he didn’t notice, and fired the next round. Bulged the barrel, blasting the top half of the aluminum casting, with the front sight, off.
My 10/22 is a like new 1965 model I lucked into while searching for a cheap, used 10/22 on Armslist. Initial plan was to mod the heck out of the rifle I found, but this rifle is just too nice, with its walnut stock and all metal parts.
I had spent a lot of time on the rimfirecentral forums, and the Blazer bulk seemed to be pretty well regarded there. I mounted a cheap Barska 4x rimfire scope I had on it. With the Blazer, I was getting dime-sized 10shot groups at 80yds. BTW, my 1965 model came in the box, complete with the Sears $59.99 price tag. I paid $200, I think.
 
I'm leaning heavily towards Tech Sights. I had them on a Marlin 60 but decided to put it to its original form, since it's 40 years old. I'll say this - there is nothing like a 26" sight radius if you can get it. It was even longer than on my 20" AR with irons.
 
Glassbedding the receiver and other mods done to my 10-22 have proven great long-term fixes to Ruger 10-22 accuracy/consistency problems for my older one. If the receiver isn't epoxy-bedded, it may shoot okay for a while, but it's not going to be a long-term accuracy fix. "Bite the bullet" and do a first-rate bedding job as explained in my procedures and unless you have a bad barrel, the rifle will be your accuracy "pride and joy" for a long time. (Only accurate rifles are interesting...at least to me.)
 
Glassbedding the receiver and other mods done to my 10-22 have proven great long-term fixes to Ruger 10-22 accuracy/consistency problems for my older one. If the receiver isn't epoxy-bedded, it may shoot okay for a while, but it's not going to be a long-term accuracy fix.
I agree that glass/epoxy bedding is the way to go to secure the receiver from moving in the stock.

But let me explain my situation as I do not have the typical wooden stock. My Collector #3 came with fullsize modular composite stock without a barrel ring. Receiver to composite stock fit was tight already (Almost like factory "bedded" tight) but I wanted to enhance the tight fit further and a strip of electrical tape made the already tight fit to stock even tighter (I did try two strips but it was so tight it was almost "glued in" and made the removal of receiver difficult and went back to one strip).

Anyhow, if there is any play between receiver and stock where input on trigger could move muzzle, yes "bedding" of receiver to stock to reduce/eliminate the play will reduce group size and further eliminate "flyers".
 
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