First Ruger 10/22
- Thread starter DMW1116
- Start date
About 90% of my experience with.22 rifles is with my 10/22. I left it bone stock for the first … oh, 35 years or so. I’ve made a few changes now, but it’s been one of my all-time favorite guns for a long time now.
IMO, the 10/22 is one of those “everyone should shoot one at least once” kind of guns. I’d love to have a few more to build into different configurations.
IMO, the 10/22 is one of those “everyone should shoot one at least once” kind of guns. I’d love to have a few more to build into different configurations.
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And the rear sight won’t adjust for windage. I bent the tool trying to move the POI to the left. I’ll call Tech Sights on Monday. Elevation was right on at 25 yards though.
Also, anyone interested in Tech Sights should know the front sight requires a 5 position AR front sight tool instead of the more common 4 prong type.
Also, anyone interested in Tech Sights should know the front sight requires a 5 position AR front sight tool instead of the more common 4 prong type.
Gun-Reck
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Figure used a very small blade screwdriver, as have no "AR" tools at all.
Just depress the plunger and then turn the post accordingly, a notch at a time.
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Gun-Reck
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Again, the "200" aperture may be a little small, depending on where your eye ends up in relation.
Had to drill out the aperture on the "200" for the RAR compacts to 3/32" to be able to pick up the front sight ears.
The leaf apertures on the "100" series on the 10/22's seem to work just fine.
P.S. Use a small punch with a .22 LR brass over the end to drift out the front sight.
I have a brass punch. I just had to hit it harder. It looked like I'd made a mess of the old front sight, but the apparent damage just wiped off. I don't really have trouble seeing through the aperture. The front sight is 0.052" which is the same width as a national match blade if I'm not mistaken. It shoots great with these, but I can't move the rear sight for windage.
Gun-Reck
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- May 16, 2023
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- 555
The "100" series leaf sight has the plunger and ring windage adjustment, and can use a bullet tip. Elevation is plunger and notch on a threaded post.
The "200" series barrel sight has a slot screw and detent windage adjustment, and can use a coin. Elevation is in the aperture barrel.
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So when all else fails I read the instructions. Both windage and elevation are adjustable with the rear sight. Elevation is adjustable with the front sight. I’ll eventually get a 5 pronged front sight tool but for now the elevation is good. There is indeed a detent on the rear windage wheel that I did t know was there. After reading the instructions, I gave it a couple clicks to the left and should be nearly centered but I’ll have to shoot it again to be sure. It was about 3.5” to the right at 25 yards so I gave it quite a few clicks. This is normal for peep sights on my rifles and typical of l handguns as well. My astigmatism pushes nearly everything right.
The flyer is common with lower-cost ammo. It may deserve to have some good target ammo shot through it with a clean bore. Regardless, it's a "shooter" for sure!
I really should give that Norma Target a fair shake too. With a good barrel cleaning and a few fouling/seasoning rounds, I'd bet I wouldn't be able to shoot the difference between that and the CCI SV. The LGS had stacks of it, but it might be gone now. I'll look next time I'm there. I went in and snagged some parts and tools for my new AR put-together but didn't look at the ammo aisle. I have a box of 22 CCI Pistol Match. I bought it for a rainy day, but it's so expensive it will have to rain $20s. I may try a few of those. It's the only upper grade target 22 I've seen in quite a while. It works as advertised in my 22 target pistol though. I don't know how you optimize ammo for pistols, but I imagine it would still work in my 10/22. It might not shoot very well, but it at least won't cause any damage.
I have a regular 10/22 carbine type out of the box and never changed anything. I was surprised the factory sights were spot on out of the box, never adjusted them, and put a 2.5x scope on it. Seems to do just fine hitting 6" steel targets at 50 yards off hand. Usually all the marks on the steel are withing 2" of one another and we're not slow firing so that is mostly operator variance IMHO. Never really focused in on trying to get small groups on paper, but never really wanted to since we just shoot cans and steel targets for entertainment. Not that picky about ammo far as I've noticed, just use regular standard velocity LRN, and seemed good from day 1. Oh, I did put a little stock extension on it from Ruger, just to make it a little bit more adult size.
A beater 1st yr keeps showing up at local gun show. I had a 67 factory checkered Sporter and a 67 standard. At that time I was hot for a 67 International to have a set
The sporter shot great, thr standard horrible.
And after not finding an Int sold both.
Later got beater SP to hunt with but covid hit and no GM sporter bbls to be had,.it shot like crap w factory tube, so I said screw it and sold that one too.
My attempt to enable you, here's my 1966 model that I've had since the early '70s. I sent the trigger to Brimstone back a few years ago for their Tier 2 Sweet Spot trigger job. It came back at 2.0 pounds with a perfectly clean break, making the rifle even more fun to shoot, and enabling better accuracy - I'd definitely do the same again. https://brimstonegunsmithing.com/tier-2-intermediate-10-22-trigger-work/
Otherwise it's stock except for the Clearidge Ultra RM 3-9x32 scope.
Riomouse911
Member
I have three, a 1988 standard model with a BX trigger, an unfired 40th Anniversary carbine and a stainless International with the BX trigger. This one is my favorite.
Great guns, the 10/22!
Stay safe.
Great guns, the 10/22!
Stay safe.
I'd just shoot the rifle and enjoy it for what it is. If improving the trigger makes it more enjoyable, then do what adds to your enjoyment.
I just wouldn't go dumping money into a barrel, chassis or elaborate bolt work. I would confine any upgrades to those that are inexpensive and you can do yourself. Pillar bed the front screw. Some sort of bedding that locks the rear of the receiver in. I milled a groove into the back of the receiver and bedded it. Free float the barrel.
I'd pretty much leave it at that. If you start dumping volq and kidd parts into it, all you gonna have is a rifle that "shoots good for a 10/22", but won't keep up with a stock out of the box savage, ruger or bergara bolt gun.
I just wouldn't go dumping money into a barrel, chassis or elaborate bolt work. I would confine any upgrades to those that are inexpensive and you can do yourself. Pillar bed the front screw. Some sort of bedding that locks the rear of the receiver in. I milled a groove into the back of the receiver and bedded it. Free float the barrel.
I'd pretty much leave it at that. If you start dumping volq and kidd parts into it, all you gonna have is a rifle that "shoots good for a 10/22", but won't keep up with a stock out of the box savage, ruger or bergara bolt gun.
If someone told me a semi-auto .22LR plinker could shoot this well, I probably wouldn't have believed them!
JP
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