LiveLife
Member
Great. Looking forward to the rest of range report.
First Ruger 10/22
- Thread starter DMW1116
- Start date
LiveLife
Member
Not bad for iron sights.
Agreed
Thanks. Unless I get a wild urge to start modifying it, this should be its final form. I’m still debating on the Volquartsen hammer kit. It might not matter as I think my eyes are going to be the limit. If the targets gets get any smaller, I don’t think I can choose between a center and 6 o’clock hold.
You can trick out a 10/22 into just about whatever you want. Mine’s a plinker & new shooter training rifle, but I love it. Hope you enjoy yours, in whatever form you pick for it.
LiveLife
Member
If the 10 shot group was shot with Volquartsen hammer kit, you can always switch back to see if group size gets larger. If the group was shot with factory trigger, I am impressed but chances are, you will reduce group size with Volquartsen kit.
For my 10/22, factory trigger went from 7.5 lbs to 4.5 lbs after shooting 4000 rounds and reduced to 2.5 lbs initially with Volquartsen Target Hammer kit and currently at 2.25 lbs.
Even at smoother 4.5 lbs after break-in, there was quite a bit of trigger induced muzzle movement and Volquartsen kit significantly reduced group size, especially reducing shooter induced "flyers".
If you are looking to reduce group size, I highly recommend the Volquartsen hammer kit and I am talking about the $43 Target Hammer kit - https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1004752381?pid=163143
Those shots were made with the factory stock trigger. If you’re that sure it would help, I’ll have to try the Volquartzen kit. The 10/22 has worked beyond my expectations so far and I am reluctant to even take it apart to clean it because I don’t want to change anything. Eventually I’ll have to do that might be the time to install the kit.
Have you, or anyone, heard of tuning the stock screw and barrel band screw for better accuracy? I though about this but haven’t messed with either.
LiveLife
Member
Measure the trigger pull and if it's more than several pounds, reduction down to 2.5 lbs should help reduce group size by not extrapolating input on trigger to move muzzle.
My previous 10/22s had barrel bands and my Collector #3 did not come with barrel band (Like LVT model). Having done testing with barrel band and without, Collector #3 free-floating the barrel and without, there's mixed report of accuracy improving. I think this maybe due to barrel band acting to limit barrel vibration/harmonics to reduce muzzle whip in producing smaller groups but this may be specific to ammunition causing different levels of barrel vibration.
When I did free-floating of barrel to freely slide a sheet of copy paper around the barrel, initially I got mixed results because I used various brands of ammunition (Likely producing different barrel harmonics/vibration) along with shim used to free-float the barrel allowed the trigger to move the rear of receiver in the stock. I addressed this play by initially modifying the shim then later adding strips of electrical tape to rear of receiver to secure it from moving (Yes I know, not a proper "bedding" practice but this was done for "real world" challenge meant for casual "plinkers", not match shooters).
So if you are considering removing the barrel band and free-floating the barrel, I would recommend you take steps to "bed" the receiver or secure the rear of receiver so trigger input does not use the action bolt as fulcrum to move the muzzle. Once you secured the receiver to stock to eliminate muzzle movement, you then can test action bolt tension.
As I found out during my 10,000+ round testing, it is best to only change one variable to see if you produce smaller groups or you will be pulling your hair out.
Ultimately, your goal is to secure the receiver to stock so trigger does not move the muzzle, especially if you are free-floating the barrel by removing the band. As many have found, if receiver is not "bedded" to stock, you may end up enlarging your group size over using the barrel band.
As to different action bolt tension producing smaller groups, I got mixed results likely from other contributing factors. Once rear of receiver was secured to stock and I was using ammunition 10/22 factory barrel liked (CCI SV/Aguila 40 gr LRN/CPRN), smaller groups were produced with action bolt with moderate to tighter tension (But not tight) than very light to light tension.
This video uses free-floated barrel 10/22 with different action bolt tension producing varying sizes of groups using CCI SV at 30 yards (Interestingly, my accurized 10/22 with Volquartsen kit and factory barrel free-floated now produces similar groups at 50 yards with CCI SV of 1/2"-3/4").
Last edited:
It was intended to be a trainer for shooting peep sights similar to my M16 A4gery. 22 is cheaper than just primers right now. Also I intend to use it in the local rimfire silhouette contests. I won’t be able to go tomorrow but they have them every month.
I don’t intend to change anything with it right now. I’ll have to take it apart for cleaning eventually but I’ll mark the action and barrel band screws so I can retighten them the same.
FWIW, I shot mine for 30+ years before I ever took it apart for cleaning & I shot whatever cheap garbage was available. I consider cleaning to be optional.
Get a torque wrench so you know what you have and can repeat it (and even experiment a little).
Im gonna take the #1 in .22-250 to 200 yards and see what diff 15 vs 20 (in-lbs) does on my forend screw.
My old job yrs ago had my hands pretty well calibrated.
Not any more. Torque wrenches for everything.
NOTE: The Wheeler torque deal works, but must pass on some caution.
Being used to Allen wrenches/screwdrivers and finer finger hand and wrist inputs.....there is a difference when using the Wheeler.
Its fat and your hand around it changes what you feel.
Kinda makes your hand stupid, everything then in the wrist.
So double and triple check your settings before you use it.
Last edited:
10/22 aluminum receivers are soft and the scope base holes easy to strip.
Have seen a couple old rigs w rearmost hole messed up.
Brownells sells a fix for that.
https://www.brownells.com/optics/ri...g-tools/.146x48-oversize-6-48-screw-shop-kit/
Its a different #6 tap and screws, so still being a #6, you don't have to mod your sight or scope base if it took 6-48's originally (compared to going to 8-40 as many elsewhere suggest).
I mention this as I wonder how many might use a torque wrench like the Wheeler set too high and not know it til too late.
Have seen a couple old rigs w rearmost hole messed up.
Brownells sells a fix for that.
https://www.brownells.com/optics/ri...g-tools/.146x48-oversize-6-48-screw-shop-kit/
Its a different #6 tap and screws, so still being a #6, you don't have to mod your sight or scope base if it took 6-48's originally (compared to going to 8-40 as many elsewhere suggest).
I mention this as I wonder how many might use a torque wrench like the Wheeler set too high and not know it til too late.
My 10/22 is in its final form. I have the Tech-Sights installed and zeroed. I finally found a 5-pronged front sight tool. I don't really see the need to upgrade the trigger at this point, but if I really get into the silhouette competition it might be worth it. Now to do some final zeroing to allow me to easily switch between 100 and 50 yards, which may not be possible.
WooD
Member
Be careful about getting your 10/22 wet.
Mine shrunk!
Mine shrunk!
plainsdrifter
Member
- Joined
- Jun 3, 2021
- Messages
- 605
Thats about all I've ever done. My first one was like 55 years ago. I can't believe you can get one for $250.
I’ve taken mine all the way down for cleaning once. For the remainder of the past 4 decades (admittedly, with a big gap in the middle), I’ve done what you described.
I got the sights pretty well set the way I want. I have a little fine tuning but they’re really close. With the front and rear sights both having elevation adjustments, I have the front sight all the way down for its highest elevation, then zeroed for 100 yards with the rear sight. This should get me very close to a 50 yard zero with 8 clicks up on the front sight post and no messing around with the rear sight.
bamajoey
Member
You lucked out on the 1965 model, I found a 1968 model in near mint condition several years ago in a pawn shop. It’s still factory stock and I plan on keeping it that way. 125.00 out the door.
I don't think I tried Blazer, but generally, my 10/22 doesn't like any kind of high velocity 22 ammo. Norma Target (1080 fps), CCI SV (1070 fps), and Aguila SE Standard Velocity (1130) all shoot pretty good, with the CCI coming out on top. Anything above 1200 fps listed velocity shoots about 2" at 50 yards. I tried CCI Mini-Mags, Aguila SE HV, Thunderbolts, Federal Auto-Match, and I think one more. I have a box of Blazer and a box of Federal 525 count bulk I haven't tried. I figure if it gets to the point I'm shooting them, it's time to quit shooting for fun. Maybe I should use them and save the good stuff in case it's needed. My Marlin 60s seem to prefer the Aguila SE HV and my Henry H001 likes the Auto-Match, ironically.
I'd suggest that everyone should own a VERY ACCURATE 10-22! I won't show my best groups again, but the photo has been "out there" for quite a while.
