Old trigger write up, FWIW
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The trigger spring fits into the lower trigger piece by virtue of the coils matching the hole's threads. Factory epoxy was pretty good, so during removal (simple pry from above) I messed up the factory spring a bit. Big whoop. I ran a 10-24 set screw up through the hole, keeping the bottom pretty flush and took a new same coil D spring and threaded it to the exposed bit of set screw. This made for a nice trap and the trigger was better after some spring trim- still was safe with major impact testing.
Overtravel was huge.
Checked the web and some dork said "don't make the spring post as tall as your inward post".
I looked at my trigger and went ***????
The safety slides back and forth, and when back and on "safe" the lower plastic part is over the factory safety screw. Where properly set, it comes to bear immediately against the plastic making for no trigger movement. Pushed forward to 'fire" the portion of the safety where the safety screw bears is out of the way and the screw can travel up a ways during trigger pulling. There is NOTHING over the safety screw.
Maybe Savage changed the trigger design, I dunno. But from what a guy posted on another forum.......it makes no sense. Not with the trigger mine has.
Anyway, I yanked my setscrew, put in a reg cap screw of substantial length and took it to where all overtravel was gone.
To remove the bolt one has to press the cocking indicator and trigger after firing.
With all overtravel adjusted out the sear would come back and drag/catch on the trigger piece farther back. I could have ground the offending bit away, but instead backed off my overtravel screw a smidge. The bolt comes out OK now. No biggie.
It just so happens that a button head 10-24 of standard length works fine. I grabbed one from the archery bench, stock screw, maybe .50" long, dunno, never measured it. It stuck up same as my longer one at new setting so i just cranked it in. The head being more shallow than a cap screw works good at never contacting anything on the bottom side, although a cap screw might clear, the trigger guard does sit away a bit.
75 cent spring from hardware store fit over the screw fine. It's not attached to anything, is just trapped when assembled. I should count coils and write that down, in case I monkey with it more and lose it.
Anyway, the spring I got (I should get part # from hardware store, was in a vendor vidmar type of deal) is of more coarse pitch, even when compressed, so it doesn't match the pitch of the 10-24 screw, so there's no added drag - sometimes I overthink stuff.
So yeah, a little stoning and $2 worth of stuff and the trigger is much better. Creep gone, weight lighter, and almost all overtravel removed. It now is usable.
.......................
The trigger spring fits into the lower trigger piece by virtue of the coils matching the hole's threads. Factory epoxy was pretty good, so during removal (simple pry from above) I messed up the factory spring a bit. Big whoop. I ran a 10-24 set screw up through the hole, keeping the bottom pretty flush and took a new same coil D spring and threaded it to the exposed bit of set screw. This made for a nice trap and the trigger was better after some spring trim- still was safe with major impact testing.
Overtravel was huge.
Checked the web and some dork said "don't make the spring post as tall as your inward post".
I looked at my trigger and went ***????
The safety slides back and forth, and when back and on "safe" the lower plastic part is over the factory safety screw. Where properly set, it comes to bear immediately against the plastic making for no trigger movement. Pushed forward to 'fire" the portion of the safety where the safety screw bears is out of the way and the screw can travel up a ways during trigger pulling. There is NOTHING over the safety screw.
Maybe Savage changed the trigger design, I dunno. But from what a guy posted on another forum.......it makes no sense. Not with the trigger mine has.
Anyway, I yanked my setscrew, put in a reg cap screw of substantial length and took it to where all overtravel was gone.
To remove the bolt one has to press the cocking indicator and trigger after firing.
With all overtravel adjusted out the sear would come back and drag/catch on the trigger piece farther back. I could have ground the offending bit away, but instead backed off my overtravel screw a smidge. The bolt comes out OK now. No biggie.
It just so happens that a button head 10-24 of standard length works fine. I grabbed one from the archery bench, stock screw, maybe .50" long, dunno, never measured it. It stuck up same as my longer one at new setting so i just cranked it in. The head being more shallow than a cap screw works good at never contacting anything on the bottom side, although a cap screw might clear, the trigger guard does sit away a bit.
75 cent spring from hardware store fit over the screw fine. It's not attached to anything, is just trapped when assembled. I should count coils and write that down, in case I monkey with it more and lose it.
Anyway, the spring I got (I should get part # from hardware store, was in a vendor vidmar type of deal) is of more coarse pitch, even when compressed, so it doesn't match the pitch of the 10-24 screw, so there's no added drag - sometimes I overthink stuff.
So yeah, a little stoning and $2 worth of stuff and the trigger is much better. Creep gone, weight lighter, and almost all overtravel removed. It now is usable.
