Long Range Rifle/Scope/PRS question(s)

What's a "peak"?
MagnetoSpeed - Error Messages.jpg

Maybe the 9V Alkaline was run down, didn't like the cold? Maybe two CR123s would do better?
MagnetoSpeed - Battery Choices.jpg

"Signal strength low" makes it sound to me like low battery or that the sensitivity needed to be turned up, but it is at the factory setting and worked before.

Dunno.
 
I spoke with a fellow on the phone and gave him the error messages.

He asked what caliber and said to turn up the sensitivity.

Battery an issue? Maaaybe...... turn up the sensitivity.

Adjustment in/out (1.0" to 1.5" to sensor) an issue?........eghhhh, turn up the sensitivity.

I have it on normal, it worked the first couple of times........Turn up the sensitivity. Try turning it up to 3 or 4.

Very nice fellow, I thanked him, and I think I am going to turn up the sensitivity.

And change the batteries, and double check the end of barrel to sensor measurement. I was 1/8" farther back that time. :)
 
As dumb as it sounds, I run that alignment rod into my muzzle brake (or into my barrel for larger calibers), then align the bayonet to only clear by about 1/8”. I’d have to look at my sensitivity setting, not sure where I have it, but I can’t recall the last time I didn’t get a reading.
 
Varminterror said:
As dumb as it sounds, I run that alignment rod into my muzzle brake (or into my barrel for larger calibers), then align the bayonet to only clear by about 1/8”. I’d have to look at my sensitivity setting, not sure where I have it, but I can’t recall the last time I didn’t get a reading.
Click to expand...
After reading it again, it says to set it up with the bar like I showed it, but if it missed shots move .125 closer.
Proper alignment
•TOP of alignment tool tangent to BOTTOM of bore
•If not picking up shots, remove .125” of space
•Always sight down-bore to verify bullet will clear sensor deck
Click to expand...

It did not miss shots, just gave the errors. I forgot to ask him what a peak was, aside from the obvious, and what that error meant. Plan is to remove .125 from the spacers, turn up the sensitivity to 3, and try again.

The first shot in each string was high, and the rest are about what was expected. If you throw the first number out on each one, the numbers are pretty good. Don't know though, just have to do it again.
 
It just drives me nuts trying to balance that rod on the bayonet, so I stick mine down the bore and eyeball the gap. Then I pay attention to which shims work on which suppressor or barrel, to eliminate the guesswork and trial and error the next time.
 
I did take a pic of the setup so I could go back and see what I used if I forgot/got them mixed up in the case, but I guess writing it down for each gun and sticking it in the case would be better.

No trouble balancing the little bugger. :)
 
I have been inducing run out in the necks when sizing. The Wilson bushing are such a tight fit in the sizer they were getting jammed in there instead of floating, plus I was sizing the neck down too much in one step. OD of necks on OF cases from the Havak are .275/.276ish. (Less from the MPA/Curtis)

I now have Wilson bushings (For standard 6MM chambers) from .265 to .270, and settled on the .267 sizing 90% of the neck and then expanding with a 21st Century .240 expander. Good consistent neck tension with better ES/SD numbers than when going with less tension. Necks are about 13.8 to 14.8 thousandths.

My Wilson bushings measure right at .500 to .501, so I check a couple of my Tungsten Disulfide coated RCBS bushings and they measured right at .499/.4995 and slipped up and down freely in the channel in the sizer. I ordered an RCBS in .271 and a .267.

Yesterday after work I played with the two new bushings. Using the .267 in the first step still induced run out in the sized brass. Using the .271 first, and then the .267 worked great. Once fired Hornady cases (factory ammo) from the Havak has been showing .00075 to .0015ish run out in the necks, and sizing them in two steps is not increasing that. A case with .001 before still measured that after sizing, etc, etc.

I am taking fired cases, brushing the necks, lightly chamfering the outside of the necks to remove dings from ones that hit concrete etc so they won't interfere with sizing/possibly damage bushing coatings, tumbling them for an hour or so, then sizing (90% of the necks) in two steps moving the shoulder .001ish, first the .271 bushing, then the .267 bushing, then wiping lube off, then brushing the necks (A couple of passes of a nylon brush), then tumbling an hour or so in bare corncob to remove more lube, then trimming in the Wilson trimmer, then lightly deburring/chamferring (Knock off 90 degree edge remove burrs), then cleaning primer pockets with a K&M primer pocket uniformer, so the pockets are clean and flat, then tumbling for a short while, then brushing necks again, a couple of passes, then hand priming with an old Sinclair (For LPs in 6 Creed) set up to seat the Fed 210M .005/006 deep.

This is how I have finally managed to get fairly straight cases and good consistent neck tension that gives better ES/SD numbers than anything lighter.
 
Not too bad. Could likely get away with less. The Dasher and fire formed Lapua is stone cold easy. Better brass would likely make it easier with the Creed as well.
 
There used to be a Benchrest thing online where you could practice and see what the wind did to the bullet, not the same as real life, but useful for total beginners. Free. Should have bookmarked it.
 
I like what I see with the Bergara….Im seriously looking at a 7mm-08 for general purpose and target silhouette shooting.
 
I loaded up some more rounds at 44.1 Grs StaBall 6.5 and Berger Hybrid 105s. 55.3 degrees, 30.11 inHG, 51 % RH

I shot two warm up rounds. 3127 & 3100 (weighed charges)

Then I shot a very good group with the weighed charges. Wind was calm.
3140
3102
3065
3106
3107

Avg=3104
SD=26.6

Then I shot a decent group with the dropped charges. Wind had picked up.
3112
3093
3063
3105
3108

Avg=3096
SD=19.8

Funny how the last shots of each string are so close together, averages are very close, but SDs are still bad. Started with a fouled barrel, I haven't cleaned it in around 20 rounds or so.

I wonder what the numbers would look like if I shot a long string.

Got "peak not detected" on the first five, but no errors on the two warmups or the second five. Aggravating to be getting errors. When I called to ask about it after the last time with the three errors all he would say was "turn up the sensitivity", no matter what I said or asked, so I still don't know what "peak not detected" means. I don't know whether to believe the numbers or not. I guess they're OK, I guess.

The MPA/Curtis action rifle continues to work very smoothly and pile shots together at 100 yards. It's not as slick as the Impact, but it's nice.
 
@Walkalong, I step away from this thread for a bit and you've gone and bought another rifle! :what: Congratulations and good for you! I like the idea of selling off what we don't need/use/want and rolling the money into something that we do need/want/use. Personally I much prefer your Impact over the MPA but it's cool that you've got to experience the Havak, Impact and now the MPA. I have an MPA chassis that I'm not using and probably never will. Maybe I'll sell it to finance one of those fancy CE auto tricklers that @Nature Boy posted a link to. I have a couple of CM1500s and a Gem Pro 250 that work well in combination but I won't be setting any speed reloading records. :D

When are you going to add suppressors to your lineup?
 
I saved 5 of the hand weighed charges of 44.1 Grs StaBall 6.5 & the Berger 105 Hybrids to shoot when it gets 95+ degrees here, that should give a good idea of how it does velocity wise in cool vs hot weather.
 
MCMXI said:
HA! HA! I've been looking at their website and was going to PM you re the latest kit for which they're taking deposits. But since you mentioned it, what are your thoughts on the the latest kit? If I'm going to pay $745 I might as well pay $955. Not saying that I'll get either but I plan to do a lot more shooting this spring, summer and fall which means a lot more reloading.

https://ceproducts.shop/collections/current-offerings/products/pre-order-of-the-the-whole-kit-v3
Click to expand...

I didn't get the auto thrower because I'm using my 650 to prime and throw a short charge in one step. I dump that in the pan, put it on the scale and let the auto trickler finish it off while I prime/short throw another case. I seat the bullet in the first case and repeat the process. With a progressive press you have the tool head set up for these steps so it works well for making a finished round one at a time.

Now, if I was using a single stage press and loading in batches (prime all your cases, charge all your cases, seat all your cases) then the auto thrower might be worth adding.
 
Hmmm, interesting. I prime cases using an RCBS "automatic" bench mounted priming tool and use one of the CM1500s to dump a short charge into a pan, which then goes onto the Gem Pro 250. I finish off with a Redding powder trickler. It's kind of a process for sure. I like the way you do it. I have three progressive presses but don't use them for anything larger than .223 Rem. It looks like the latest kit would make the CM1500, Gem Pro 250 and Redding trickler redundant. I watched a couple of videos and liked what I saw and heard.

I prime in batches but then add powder and seat the bullet one round at a time. For some cartridges I run the batch through a neck crimp die after the fact.
 
Walkalong said:
The GemPro250 isn't consistent enough to suit me. I'm going to get the FX-I120/auto trickler setup. Soon.
Click to expand...

I've found my Gempro to be consistent and it does a good job but it's a slow process. I'll most likely invest in a better system too, but not because of precision when weighing powder. I'm sure some are better than others though.
 
Yea, I am happy with it for anything else, but when it gets down to .01.02 Grs, it isn't quite it.
 
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