Melting polymer coated bullets?

Akula69

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American Reloading has a lot of heavily damaged 9mm polymer coated bullets. Evidently the pulling machinery was not adjusted correctly that day, but I digress. Buying them in a lot of 4000 projectiles (with the discount) results in lead which would cost ~ 1.64/lb, which is a good price for my area. Link for the curious folks:

https://americanreloading.com/9mm-38-super-357sig-355-356/3313-9mm-red-coated-lead-mix-1000ct.html

My question is, could they be melted down and re-cast as well-formed projectiles again? What would happen to the polymer coating - would it just ball up and float on the lead (like the rest of the impurities)?

It seems like a great way to get projectile grade lead with the correct hardness....

Inquiring minds would like to know (before they are all sold....)
 
The rmr lead when buying 120 pounds 2xboxes is 1.65 shipped no coating. The big difference might be if the lead is harder and you need that hardness. You will loose material in coating weight as well. My rmr lead is 9bhn ish. If these were bhn 18 then they would be worth it if you need the harder lead. I spend 1/3 of a bar of superhard to make 357 mag bullets at bhn 12 with rmr lead.
 
I would think that the plastic would burn off and whatever remained be removed with the dross after fluxing. At least that is what has happened to all the plastic coated bullets that I have recovered so far. Most plastics melt and burn at lower temps than lead does from my limited research.
 
Burning plastic could literally be more harmful to your health than the lead. I would take ACJ1’s route if possible.
 
Maybe just put a handful in a freezer ziplock bag with a dash of White Label Lube 45-45-10, roll around a little then pour out onto foil or parchment in a pan, let dry then load and shoot. Might work. Just an idea.
 
I seem to remember a demo of Hi-Tek coating where someone took a blowtorch to a coated bullet and the lead melted inside the coating. It did eventually split and molten lead poured out but it took some heat.
 
The metals used as pigment to color the coating might mix with the melted lead and you might discover some super bullet lead alloy. Maybe something that never fouls the barrel? Or something that will take down both vampires and zombies without having to use any silver?

;)
 
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I seem to remember a demo of Hi-Tek coating where someone took a blowtorch to a coated bullet and the lead melted inside the coating. It did eventually split and molten lead poured out but it took some heat.

I did that long ago when they first came out. I don't remember if I posted pictures?? I am sure others have done it.. I also did smash and crush in a vise. If I recall the torch made a pin hole in the outer layer and the lead poured out
 
I wonder what would happen to the coating it it was soaked in acetone or paint remover? Paint remover melts epoxies??

If it wasn't so damn hot in the garage I would go try it:eek:
 
BTDT. No problem really as the coating will burn/melt off the lead in the pot. If one uses common sense, don't do deep breathing exercises over the pot, or check the temperature with a wet finger. I usually clean the coated along with my dirty scrap alloy and do a lot of fluxing and skimming to get a clean as possible alloy before casting with it, keeps needle valve clean too...
 
I wonder what would happen to the coating it it was soaked in acetone or paint remover? Paint remover melts epoxies??

If it wasn't so damn hot in the garage I would go try it:eek:
You know… and I know… it hasn’t even started getting hot yet. :p:neener:

Come August I’ll be moving my reloading stool to the sitting room right under the A/C vent. :thumbup:
 
Huh. They had 11K of them at 2000 hours last night, and as of 1800 today they were sold out. I guess someone else must of thought the same thing I did.
Not really a huge loss imo. Standard wheel weights are just as good and may be cheaper locally
 
My question is, could they be melted down and re-cast as well-formed projectiles again? What would happen to the polymer coating - would it just ball up and float on the lead (like the rest of the impurities)?

It seems like a great way to get projectile grade lead with the correct hardness....

Inquiring minds would like to know (before they are all sold....)[/QUOTE]

I would expect them to smoke and stink a little but the coating should burn off. Like the others have said, just exercise a little caution being around the pot.

I've melted powder coated bullets in my smelting pot a few times. Mixed in with 350-400# of wheelweights any extra smoke isn't noticeable. Of course wheelweights sometimes have gear grease, brake fluid, ect on them and are sometimes painted. It can't be any worse than melting flux core solder! :(

I usually try to light any smoke. This seems to help.

Truthfully there are easier ways to obtain lead but its an interesting idea.
 
It depends on what they are coated with and how but yeah, might take a little agitation but you can recast them.

A powder coated bullet will melt before a plain lead bullet will.

B8FD9795-A56D-43A0-BFAB-C1772810CBA4.jpeg

A HI-Tek coated bullet will contain molted lead but at that point it’s pretty easy to damage the “sack” and it will leak out.

422ED096-6045-4766-A7B1-17622432686C.jpeg

Skim the dross as normal before casting and you’ll be good to go.

I generally melt down recovered bullets outside and pour into ingots used later for my casting machine (inside).
 
My question is, could they be melted down and re-cast as well-formed projectiles again? What would happen to the polymer coating?
Yes.

It will melt, then combust, then shriek as the souls of ancient dinosaurs long-trapped in oil deposits are freed to return to their tropical island paradise. . .

Lots of poly-coated bullets have turned into lead muffins in my side yard. The ash left over floats on molten lead, just like everything else except the occasional DU penetrator that sinks.
 
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