It can, if you shop carefully, only get what you need, and are disciplined.Cheap and reloading don’t seem to go together.
Unfortunately most of us are not and only end up shooting more for the same money, or worse.
It can, if you shop carefully, only get what you need, and are disciplined.Cheap and reloading don’t seem to go together.
While that is a good manual you can buy the current issue, the 50th Edition brand new for under $20 from Amazon and other places online.https://www.ebay.com/itm/283301455988 Here you go. $14 shipped. I'm still using this manual. Some of the data is a bit dated, not including the newest wunderkind powders, but most of the old standby's are there with useful cast bullet weights.
Lyman is one of my go-to manuals. Usually the first one I will reference, but I have about 10 other manuals now.While that is a good manual you can buy the current issue, the 50th Edition brand new for under $20 from Amazon and other places online.
With all the new powders and cartridges finding out I expect there will be another release fairly soon even though this edition and the previous edition are not that old.
Nowadays, a lot of handloaders use powder coating instead of traditional bullet lube. It's cheap (usually cheaper than bullet lube) and the only equipment you need to apply it is a $20 toaster oven from Wal Mart.Lee molds are relatively inexpensive. You don’t need an electric melting pot either. You can make your own bullet lube as well. Tons of reading on the internet about casting on the cheap.
One more thing. If you can, find an experienced reloaded who came still count to 10 on his fingers, and ask for an Intro to Reloading. I've done this for several guys, and it helps them alot.
I've been using Longshot for my 10mm loads, using 185 grain jhp made by zero bullets, definitely full power loads
I agree with AA#9 but BlueDot is not the devil. Keep you pressure reasonable and use heavy bullets.I happen to like AA#9 and AA#7 for "real" 10mm... it meters better than Blue Dot... and Alliant's warnings about using Blue dot in .357 and .41 magnum (two cartridges that bracket 10mm's parameters in many ways) have made me nervous about it. I loaded a few Blue Dot 10mm rounds early in my reloading, but haven't in a long time. AA #9 in particularly is basically impossible to overcharge in many 10mm loadings, which was comforting to me in my early loading.
I am not an old guy, only 58 but I will say this,
as far as I know you only get one life, try to do the things you want while you can (use common sense of course)
Tomorrow is not guarenteed for any of us so tomorrow may be to late.
LOL!Don't mind the bold text, by keyboard got water in it, and does that from time to time.
Welcome
I posted a basic setup that one can put together for about $200 or so. It's been awhile and I'd have to find the link. Everything on it was new and good basic stuff. Nothing fancy but nothing you'd feel was junk and a waste of money.
I don't recall the exact list and prices but as said the first thing is to get a good manual. I'd also say to go on the powder company sites and get them to send you the free manuals they produce. The Alliant one is decent and one I actually like.
As far as manuals. Lee is an excellent first one and a MUST READ IMHO as it goes over everything pretty well. I also like Lyman. After that if you threw the other manuals in a bin and grabbed any I'd say they're all good and you wouldn't go wrong.
The thing is that if you want to save money you need to do some shopping
But basically you need
1. a good manual (see above and get more than one for safety).
2. a press. I like the Lee Classic Turret. It's a great beginner and intermediate press that you'll never outgrow. (you may add a progressive but the LCT will always be good to have)
3. you'll need dies for each caliber you choose to reload. I suggest start with one caliber, learn the basics then get another set for that caliber. With the LCT you'll also need another turret if you don't want to reset your dies but they're cheap.
4. you'll need a scale. I've found that all of the digital scales are made by China Inc. The ones branded by the reloading companies seem to be the same ones you can get at Harbor Freight. The only thing is the HF is 1/3 the cost and you can also get a 20% off coupon if you search the web.
5. Calipers. Like scales they all seem to be the same unless you buy high end American or Japanese. Frankly, again HF is a good bargain to start with.
6. A priming tool. I prefer to prime off of the press and recommend that for beginners
7. A trim tool if you're reloading rifle cartridges
8. a few other odds and ends that you'll pick up
You'll also need a reloading block to hold your ammo is nice, I've used the plastic ones that come with factory ammo, a block of wood with holes drilled in them can also work.
Now the question is do you want to piece the setup or buy it all at once. I bought a few things as I could afford them, and basically in the order I listed. And if you can find a good used press at a good price then getting things as you can afford them or find them is a good way to go.
If you want to save up, or have a couple of hundred dollars and are all excited to go then the LCT kit is a good buy and might save you some money but you'll still need to buy calipers and dies, so figure at least another $50 to $75 over the kit cost.
As far as casting, I'd say wait on casting. Learn the basics and understand what's going on before you start adding more things to worry about.
Also as said, ALWAYS pick up your brass, especially since you're interested in less common calibers. I'd also say pick up other brass as you can trade it or sell it. I'm not sure where to buy once fired, but when I started I just bought factory ammo then picked up my brass. I also am in the habit of buying two boxes for every one that I use. This way I'm slowly building up a supply.
If you need to buy brass check out RMR and Everglades first as they often have good prices if they have what you're looking for.
Finally,, as far as cleaning, when I started I bought a cheap collender at the dollar store and rinsed my brass out then let it air dry. You don't need shiny sparkling brass to have good shooting ammo, it just has to be clean.
Anyway good luck, please keep us posted and don't be afraid to post as most of the folks here are friendly and will help you as much as they can.