Putting a little more power in a $15.00 Daisy

WM was selling them in store for $22 right before Christmas, online they were nearly as cheap.
 
I pick up a Red Ryder on the 22nd at a Walmart in south Dallas for $7.50 for my daughter. I’ve got the 50th anniversary model from when I was a kid. Now I got to go Add a little more power to mine.
 
$7.50 is a screamin' deal for a Red Ryder! If I could find a deal like that I'd buy every one they'd sell me. You can add some preload to the factory spring and get an increase in power. I also have new springs I had made, they will get it up to 340 fps with no other changes. But the spring costs more than you paid for the gun! lol
 
It was a fantastic deal I couldn’t say no. My only regret is I didn’t buy more. This post has made me start restoring mine from when I was a kid. And I thank you for that! What’s the price on the springs? I’m new to this site just joined this morning.
 
Welcome aboard, glad you found it! This s a very good forum. Another is Gateway to Airguns.$14 shipped for one spring, $24.00 for two, shipping included on both.
 
I don't know if anyone has already suggested this or if it would work, but has anyone tried nesting a smaller diameter spring inside the mainspring?

I have lots of ideas. Hoping someday to have a good one!
 
A look inside the BB gun powerplant is an article describing how the Daisy lever action BB gun powerplant works. This is the newest design, the older design uses a removable shot tube but they function basically the same.

The photo below shows the plunger assembly. I'm sure you can see why a smaller spring won't work- there's no room! The center of the spring is where the plunger tube lives.

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Here's a cutaway of a Red Ryder:

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This cutaway gun was done by the excellent airgun machinist Grant Stace.
 
Hey, that nesting spring idea, it won't work.

Just thought I should let you know.

I don't actually own a Red Ryder, or any other Daisy BB gun like it, so I'm glad you posted that picture. I'm sure you already posted it, but at 23 pages and counting, I didn't feel like searching for it.

I do have several other spring-powered projectile launchers though, so I do have a little bit to go off.

Here's another idea... There are coil springs that are flat (find a picture of the S&W Shield recoil spring, you will understand what I am having difficulty explaining). What if you got an inch long (or so) spring like that and put it where your preload spacer is? It is flat so I'm hoping that will help the round spring from slipping off and binding. Might be easier than getting extra strong springs. Might just be a nightmare. Like I said, I have lots of ideas. Eventually, I'm bound to have a good one!
 
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Using these blast from the 1980s
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The bottom of a can of biscuits was too tough but it split open a place on the side of a old empty peaches can. I shot less than ten rounds through it so far. Cold bad weather!

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I have not used one but isn't the bear trap there to prevent the cocking lever from slamming closed on your fingers?
I did that once when I was a kid, surprised that it didn't break my fingers.
 
I always hated anti-beartrap devices, because I figure a spring-piston powered gun can be decocked if there isn't one! Legend has it that spring pellet guns are harmed by dryfire, and if there isn't one of those anti-finger-eating devices I can cock and load it, but if the squirrel runs off, I can decock it and not lose my pellet or scare the hiding squirrel for next time.
 
Delta, you got that gun spitting them out real good! One thing about shooting can bottoms to gauge power- if you sit the can on a soft surface like carpet or grass, the dents will not be as deep as when you use a hard surface.
 
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I recently met a fellow Daisy lover and turns out he's also a stock maker. He mentioned having an eBay store and I liked what I saw after going there to take a look around. Cut to today when I just picked up my very own maple stock and forearm for my Daisy Red Ryder. The photos were taken indoors, as soon as the weather here gets sunny I'll take more photos in natural light so the 'chatoyance' will be more visable. I'll let the photos speak for themselves other than to say the photos cannot convey how butter-smooth the stock really is, nor how nicely it shoulders and balances:

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