quick review-new lee auto drum powder measure

[Schwing]

I finally got mine out of the box today and set it up on my dillon 650. I use the dillon powder check and the low primer check. While it does clear both without the riser, it is an almost exact science to line everything up so. It took me awhile to figure it out. It tends to bump up against either the primer or powder check systems depending on the direction you face the drum. Even though I was able to make it work, I will be ordering the riser.

As far as accuracy, I don't think I will be using my lee pro autos anymore. I weighed a few dozen charges of unique and none of them were off by more than .2 and the vast majority of the time it was spot on. Using hp38 every charge was exact except for 2 which were only .1 off.

The little safety reset switch came off after about 15 seconds of use. I get why they put that on there but it seems to me that it vastly increases your chances of getting a squib while only minimally decreasing chances of a double charge. I would add that if I were to leave it on, it would not work at all without a riser on my press with the powder and primer checks.

 

[jell-dog]

auto-drum and .380auto reloading

I recently purchased a Lee Auto-Drum, and set it up to reload .380auto on my Lee Classic 4 Hole Turret.

Cleaned it up good, lubed with graphite powder and started reloading (after running about a 1/4# of HP-38 through)

No problems with powder leakage, once set to amount of powder I wanted to drop I found the Lee Auto-Drum to accurately drop 3.4gr HP-38, with a +/- 0.10gr, majority right at 3.4gr.

Here is my (IMHO) problem:
I cannot set the bell to my usual amount!

I set the .380auto expander/powder thru die as outlined in Lee instructions.

When I set the Lee Auto-Drum on the expander die (per Lee instructions) and cycle a piece of brass, the amount of bell has increased!

Anyone else have this problem??

Backing the die out to adjust the (IMHO) overbelling to the point I am happy with results in the decrease of rotation of the drum to the point that the powder charge fails to drop.

This caused me to wonder about the function of this powder measure on my 9mm expansion/powder thru die.

So, I set up the Auto-Drum as per Lee instructions and set the 9mm die as per instructions.
I did set the expansion die to NO bell.
Result: No bell on brass and the drum rotated PERFECTLY to drop my powder charge!
I then set the die to my usual amount of bell and cycled a piece of 9mm brass.
Result: Bell was (as close as I can see) my usual amount and the drum rotated PERFECTLY to drop the powder charge I had set!

IMHO, the return spring for the drop tube is to stiff to work with .380auto or smaller cartridge brass.

I have sent a request to Lee outlining my problem and asking if there is s solution (lighter spring?).

I will report here on Lee's response.

JD

 

[kcofohio]

IMHO, the return spring for the drop tube is to stiff to work with .380auto or smaller cartridge brass.

You're probably right, as the 380 Auto brass it thinner in wall thickness compared to most other cartridge brass.

I did notice a bit less resistance seating some plated bullets in 380. But after loading, I pressed the bullet by hand with reasonable pressure, with no bullet set back.

Will be waiting for your post on Lee's response.

 

[snuffy]

The more I use this new measure, the more I like it. Today I was loading some 7-08, I was using IMR 8208, which is a fine short cut stick powder. Set to 38.5 it was very consistent within +or - 1 tenth of a grain.

The main reason for this post is I noticed that consistency was right on if I was REAL careful how I approached the pusher funnel inside the rifle charge die with the case to be charged. If I ran into it hard, the charge would be overweight, sometimes by as much as .5 high. Then, if I was real gentle on the approach to the pusher so as to not bump it at all, the charge would be light by as much as .4. Just a gentle bump would result in the target weight or just a tenth above or below, or right on.

This is NOT a new thing, any volume-metric measure with a cavity that's held in an upright position to fill will be affected by vibration. The variation in my case was held to +- one tenth or exactly on 38.5. If it was either side of that I tried again, never had to re-do more than once.

 

[jell-dog]

auto-drum and .380auto reloading

This is the reply I received from Lee about my question on the Lee AutoDrum over belling.380Auto brass. (see post #102)

"The return spring on the Auto-Drum can not be reduced in pressure. The
expander plug should limit the amount of flare on the case. If you
notice the plug has a portion that is slightly below the bullet diameter
then flares open at 5 degrees terminating at the 9/16 diameter of the
plug. The 5 degree taper is such that the bullet seating and crimping
die will neatly and completely fold this slight flare back to original.
If something else is wrong that I am missing, don't hesitate to call.

Sincerely,

John Lee, President"

JD

 

[Schwing]

First, I have to preface this by saying I am using unique, not the best metering but far from the worst.

One issue I seem to be having is that it takes quite a few charges before it balances out. What I mean is that any time I make a change to the charge, it varies by as much as .3 grains until I have run 25 or so charges through it. It then settles in and is super accurate.

It also throws different charges in cases that have already been flared vs cases that have not during this break in period. In un-flared cases, it throws on average about .3 grains more than in un-flared cases for those first 25 or so charges. I am fully aware that this can happen if the die isn't seated deep enough but this is most certainly NOT the case. Setting the die any deeper than I currently have it would (and does because I fiddled with it) cause excessive flare.

I noticed this break in period actually increased a tad after adding the riser to it. I am thinking it just takes some motion to get the powder to settle or something. It is a bit frustrating but, after that break in time, I gotta say it is super accurate.

 

[Artofgolf]

This is the reply I received from Lee about my question on the Lee AutoDrum ....JD

Thanks for posting the reply, jell-dog.
Did you feel that the reply by Mr. Lee adequately answered your question? Thx, AoG

 

[jell-dog]

Thanks for posting the reply, jell-dog.
Did you feel that the reply by Mr. Lee adequately answered your question? Thx, AoG

AOG,
Yes......and No.
I feel Mr. Lee did answer one part of my question, that you should get a consistent flair.

I ran 10 pieces of (mixed) .380 brass through the expander/powder through die with the Lee AutoDrum mounted on the .380 powder through die (no powder in hopper) and the flair (bell) measurement is very consistent, just more than I have been using with plated/jacketed bullets.

The flair (bell) achieved with the Lee AutoDrum attached is great for coated lead bullets where you want to make sure you don't scrape off the coating.

As far as I am concerned, I like to have the absolute minimum flair/bell for plated/jacketed bullets.

I'll measure the bell before and after seating the plated/jacketed bullet to see if the bullet has expanded the brass enough to remove the bell.
IMHO, some bullets will expand the brass enough to remove the bell and some won't, so I will check the results with each different bullet I use.

If the bell is not removed by seating the bullet, I have the Lee 4 die set for 380auto, so I will set the FCD die to just touch the brass enough to remove the bell.

The accuracy that the Lee AutoDrum has shown me is exceedingly consistent, and I feel I made a great purchase.

I just have to do more study on whether the (IMHO) "extra" bell is affecting neck tension.
I don't "think" it does, but, you know how reloaders are, something changes and you have to prove to yourself you are still loading safe, accurate ammo.

I can set my Lee 9mm, 38spl and 357mag dies to any amount of flair/bell and using the Lee AutoDrum does not change that flair/bell at all.

Obviously I can go back to using my RCBS Uniflow w/micrometer on the .380auto, it is very accurate at the small powder charges .380 requires.

I look forward to any comments from members about the use of the Lee AutoDrop with .380auto dies.
Problems? No Problems? Is this all in my mind

Thanks for reading this long post
JD

 

[Artofgolf]

...The accuracy that the Lee AutoDrum has shown me is exceedingly consistent, and I feel I made a great purchase....JD

I agree, jell-dog. I've only used mine on 9mm & haven't tried the LAD on 380 Auto yet.

When I gear-up for Wharfy-loads, I'll keep your comments in mind. Thanks for your experiences.....AoG

...No Problems? Is this all in my mind....

Nah...we're all tormented the same. Remember ~ we asked for it! :banghead:

 

[jell-dog]

I agree, jell-dog. I've only used mine on 9mm & haven't tried the LAD on 380 Auto yet.

When I gear-up for Wharfy-loads, I'll keep your comments in mind. Thanks for your experiences.....AoG

Nah...we're all tormented the same. Remember ~ we asked for it! :banghead:

Thank you for your comments AOG!
I will be very interested in your experience loading .380 with the LAD as your powder drop.
JD

 

[kcofohio]

jell-dog, I get about the same results whether using the Pro-Disk or Pro-Drum. But neither way produces bullet set back for me when I apply reasonable pressure to the bullet in casing. I have the taper crimp die, and not the FCD. I usually load the Berry's HBRN 100 gr.
Do you get bullet set back? If you are, seeing how the 380 has thinner wall thickness, the RCBS may be the best route.

I did make an adapter for the Lee Perfect Powder Measure, so I could use it with the 380 powder thru die. (I couldn't get Titegroup to throw consistently at 2.9 gr. with the Pro-Disk w/charge-bar.) If I were to start getting bullet set back, I may go back to the PPM in 380.

Otherwise, having used the Pro-Drum in 9, 38, and 45, it has worked well with them.

 

[jell-dog]

kcofohio,
I have not experienced bullet setback on the cartridges I tested, there's just more bell than I normally used.

It's something I will watch though.

JD

 

[drband]

I have used the auto drum only on 45acp. The flare is exactly the same as with the pro auto PM. I use both with the Lee riser installed in the powder thru die. I may be missing something here, but I don't see why the bell flare could be different with a different PM attached. Isn't the die responsible for the flare? Please enlighten me.

 

[drband]

Another note... Tried out a different powder (for me--W231) for 45acp. The auto drum dropped consistent charges from 4.0 to 5.8 in 2/10th increments with practically no variation. Very smooth operation, no powder leakage, very easy to adjust during load work ups.

 

[kcofohio]

With the thinner (by about -.002" or -20%) wall of the 380, the die detail that bell-mouths the casing is the link to actuating the powder dispenser. So when reloading the 380, it gives a softer feel (speaking of SS and turret presses) when charging the case, as the weaker casing has to overcome the springs of the PM.

Not sure if that cleared it up or made it more hazy.

 

[drband]

Ok... Did not know the belling detail was also the link to the PM. That makes more sense. I'll have to confirm it on some .380 cases and see what happens. Thanks for the info!

 

[AV8TOR]

Couple of quick questions before I order mine;

I do not use the Safety Primer, so without that installed will I still need a riser on the LCT?

If am reading this correct I am not liking the thought of having to press the disconnector before raising the ram. What is involved in removing that safety disconnector? Is there anything other than the potential double charge that removing this will cause?

Do you still prefer the Auto Drum over the Auto Disk now after the newness is over?

Thank you

 

[Schwing]

Couple of quick questions before I order mine;

I do not use the Safety Primer, so without that installed will I still need a riser on the LCT?

If am reading this correct I am not liking the thought of having to press the disconnector before raising the ram. What is involved in removing that safety disconnector? Is there anything other than the potential double charge that removing this will cause?

Do you still prefer the Auto Drum over the Auto Disk now after the newness is over?

Thank you

I do not believe you will need the riser but I am currently using a dillon so that question will have to be confirmed by others.

Removing a single screw is all that is required to remove the safety reset. A double charge is the biggest concern but I cannot imagine many folks leave these on after using the press for more than a few charges. I see no other downside and see a huge increase in the likelihood of a squib when using it.

I do still prefer the auto drum. There are a couple of things I like about the auto disk though. The hopper is pretty small on the auto drum. If you are reloading large cases or going on a reloading marathon, you really do have to top it off every few minutes.

Over all though IMO, there is no comparison as far as consistency goes. The auto drum is far more accurate and easier to set to an exact weight. It also seems to deal with larger flake powders much better. I have already purchased a second and, after I have had a few months to make sure there are no huge issues that arise, I intend to buy one for all of my tool heads.

 

[AV8TOR]

Great thanks

 

[WMaximusD]

Couple of quick questions before I order mine;

I do not use the Safety Primer, so without that installed will I still need a riser on the LCT?

If am reading this correct I am not liking the thought of having to press the disconnector before raising the ram. What is involved in removing that safety disconnector? Is there anything other than the potential double charge that removing this will cause?

Do you still prefer the Auto Drum over the Auto Disk now after the newness is over?

Thank you

I don't prime on my LCT but still use the riser anyway. You can install it without the riser but I found it cramped, the riser gives you more room to adjust it how you want.

 

[Mad Chemist]

Has anyone tried this powder measure on a Loadmaster? If you have, can you tell me if it needs the riser or not?

 

[Dudedog]

I have been using the Autodrum more and like it overall.
Easy to adjust, accurate and the price is right.
It does have a pretty stiff spring as compared to the LPD IMO.
I wish they would have come up with a attachment method for the powder hopper though. I never minded removing the thumb screws on the LPD.

Went to dump powder back into the jar (just pull the hole turret head off) forgot it wasn't attached like the LPD...... :banghead:

Final verdict thumbs up.

 

[jell-dog]

I don't prime on my LCT but still use the riser anyway. You can install it without the riser but I found it cramped, the riser gives you more room to adjust it how you want.

^^^^^this^^^^^
My experience exactly (fat fingers), riser gives more room for adjustments and (for me) makes it easy to swap from one caliber die to another.
JD

 

[actionpistol327]

Has anyone tried this powder measure on a Loadmaster? If you have, can you tell me if it needs the riser or not?

I use it on my Loadmaster and didn't need the riser with Lee dies.

 

[Rancher5]

Has anyone tried this powder measure on a Loadmaster? If you have, can you tell me if it needs the riser or not?

No you don't since the die plate does not move on a Lee Load Master,