quick review-new lee auto drum powder measure

[Artofgolf]

....I will be very interested in your experience loading .380 with the LAD as your powder drop. JD

Set-up today for 380 Auto ~ used some once-fired Hornady NP brass to determine if the powder drop was consistent at the lower charge weights.
I checked 10 consecutive throws on the digital scale - all between 2.7gr to 2.8gr of ZIP. Belling & spring assembly worked well, to my satisfaction.
I'm mindful that the Auto Drum was broken-in on 9mm loads first; it seems that the lower-end charges can be accomplished with this new measure

As always, YMMV AoG

 

[jell-dog]

Set-up today for 380 Auto ~ used some once-fired Hornady NP brass to determine if the powder drop was consistent at the lower charge weights.
I checked 10 consecutive throws on the digital scale - all between 2.7gr to 2.8gr of ZIP. Belling & spring assembly worked well, to my satisfaction.
I'm mindful that the Auto Drum was broken-in on 9mm loads first; it seems that the lower-end charges can be accomplished with this new measure
As always, YMMV AoG

AOG,
Interesting!
I found the AutoDrum to be VERY consistent on powder weight drops for my 380 auto reloading also

I am now working up 9mm loads, so will keep in mind that yours "was broken-in on 9mm loads first" when I load up more 380

Thanks for info AOG

JD

 

[Artofgolf]

...I found the AutoDrum to be VERY consistent on powder weight drops for my 380 auto reloading also...JD

jell-dog, I was pleasantly surprised with the LAD. Lee has finally produced a powder measure that's very good for small powder volumes.
I'm going to mothball my modified charge bar & stick with the Auto Drum for Wharfy loading.
If it works that good with ZIP, then True Blue & VV-N320 should be a breeze....
I've already ran N-340 (stick) and Silhouette thru it with excellent results.

 

[AV8TOR]

For break in of the Auto Drum is there any manual way to drop powder or only into a brass case?

 

[jell-dog]

For break in of the Auto Drum is there any manual way to drop powder or only into a brass case?

No, not in my experience.

Other members may have an idea on how to do that.

The brass rising into the expansion/powder die activates the drop tube of the AutoDrum to drop the powder charge.

There is no need for "breaking in" the AutoDrum, all calibers above .380auto work perfectly.

The belling on .380auto is acceptable and several members have experienced no bullet creep/setback in .380auto.

Hope this helps!

HAPPY THANKSGIVING TO ALL THR MEMBERS!!!

JD

 

[Mad Chemist]

I got mine set up on my Loadmaster today. The safety disconnect works fine with the Loadmaster. I already had a chain system in use with the PAD that I swapped out so it was simple to just thread it into the tab on the Auto Drum. If I were going to set this measure up on any other press besides the Loadmaster I would definitely disable the safety.

I ran about 80rds of 9mm with N320 powder. Target weight was 4.1gr. Once I had the weight dialed in I measured the charges of 10 individual cases over the course of the run . The lowest charge weight was 4.06 and the highest was 4.16. I consider this to be very good accuracy with this particular powder. N320 is a stick powder that usually gives me quite a bit of charge weight variation in my PAD.

 

[Elkins45]

Mine threw a squib using 300-MP in 300 blackout. It seems like it can get 'out of sync' with the top and bottom holes somehow. The rotor turns but it doesn't drop powder.

So far I am less than pleased, to put it mildly. I used it with Unique in 40S&W and got 100fps velocity variations. The old disk measure was that good.

 

[kcofohio]

Mine threw a squib using 300-MP in 300 blackout. It seems like it can get 'out of sync' with the top and bottom holes somehow. The rotor turns but it doesn't drop powder.

So far I am less than pleased, to put it mildly. I used it with Unique in 40S&W and got 100fps velocity variations. The old disk measure was that good.

Elkins45, I had a hiccup with mine once like that. IIRC, I had over tightened the drum and it wouldn't rotate enough to pick up powder for the next throw.

If that isn't it, I'd give Lee a call. There could be a flaw in your unit.

 

[Elkins45]

When you are adjusting yours can you rotate the drum around several degrees with just the normal force used to turn the adjustment key?

 

[Rule3]

If you screw in the powder adjust screw to far it will go into the rotor and then it will jam and the rotor will not turn, It actually bends or flexes the arm. If it is crewed in that far it will not drop any powder. The lowest I could get mine ws 2.0 grains of Bullseye.. The unit is pretty darn spot on accurate and repeatable. Something is not right?

 

[kcofohio]

When you are adjusting yours can you rotate the drum around several degrees with just the normal force used to turn the adjustment key?

Elkins45, no, mine seems solid while adjusting the screw.

Sounds like your's is either assembled wrong or it has a faulty part.

I'd give Lee a call. These Pro-Drum units might be a hit. Hate to see yours be a miss.

 

[AV8TOR]

I just ordered one for my LCT and my daughter says she is wanting to get my son in law started in reloading so she is thinking single stage. I was thinking of getting this so he can use it with the SS and Turret for the future. Thoughts on using the Auto Drum with SS?

 

[kcofohio]

Av8tor, I have used the Pro-Drum with a rifle charging die. Though it was on the LCT, the index rod was removed.

With the proper die, it will work. It just needs the upward pressure of a casing to engage the rotation.

 

[Jarhead66]

Just ordered one the other day, hope it works as good as the reviews

 

[kcofohio]

Jarhead66, welcome to THR!

The unit itself is a good design. With Lee, if you do have an issue, they seem to make good on corrections needed.

 

[Mad Chemist]

I tested the measure again last night with my .380 bunny-fart loads.

The target charge weight was 2.15gr of Ramshot Competition. This is a small-medium flake extruded powder. After getting the measure dialed in I threw 20 charges and weighed each individually. The lowest charge was 2.10 and highest was 2.19 for a total variation of +/- .045gr!

I was very happy with these results for such small charges with an extruded flake powder. I may have to work up some light .380 loads with Unique just to see how low I can go accurately and repeatably.

 

[AV8TOR]

Received my new Lee Auto Drum powder measure tonight and first gave it a light brush of fine graphite powder and then went to run some sample drops using W231. I did not bother with the scoop and fill first like the manual said because looking at the volume I know it would not overfill a 9mm case. Started out right at 4.3gr and after dumping 20 cycles I started measuring and was under 0.05+/- on every drop with most drops almost spot on. Adjusting was just like the manual said with one flat of the adjustment key giving a 0.1gr change. Looks like I am going to be a happy camper with this. I will do a more formal test this weekend but just had to drop some quick shots to test.

I should add that I did not have a flake of powder leak on the 100+ drops that I ran with the 231 powder. I have some Silhouette which is the finest powder that I have and will check it out with that too.

I did add a single strip of red electrical tape around the hopper to provide a tighter cap fit and it has a perfect fit. I also ran some labels to indicate the open and closed positions. I also removed the double charge disconnector right out of the box. IMO with the powders I use it's not needed.

If I had to pick on anything and this is extremely a small issue is that when screwing back together the drum to the main body with the strong spring pressure you can not get a feel for how tight it needs to be because you can't rotate it by hand. I must have got it right because I did not get any leaks.

 

[Artofgolf]

...Looks like I am going to be a happy camper with this...I have some Silhouette which is the finest powder that I have and will check it out with that too...

Yep, I think you will be pleasantly surprised with the Silhouette One of the first powders I ran through the LAD; excellent results from mine.

 

[kcofohio]

The Auto-Drum has brought me back to using Titegroup for 380 again.

I was about to give up on using Titegroup. Anything under say 4.5 gr. was inconsistent using the Lee Pro-Disk. When using lead bullets, sometimes I would get leading because of a reduced charge. A couple of times I had squibs. Because I didn't watch close enough, and have very little, if any powder charge.

Today, taking some 50 rounds of 380, loaded using the Pro-Drum. With 95 gr. cast bullets and 3.0 gr. of Titegroup I got good consistent readings over the chrono. Had minor bullet lube fouling and specks of lead deposits. I can live with that.

 

[Schwing]

I know this thread is older so, hopefully, some of you are still looking.

I have been away from my bench for a long time now and am just getting the free time to really work with this after a long hiatus.

One thing I am still having issues with is the inconsistency between using the riser and not using it. Without the riser, I can make a change in the drop weight and it only takes 5 or 6 drops to balance out and be consistent. When I use the riser, I have to drop 30 or so loads before it becomes consistent. Even then, it is still more like +-.3 grains instead of +-.1 without the riser. I have thoroughly cleaned everything etc.

Anyone else experience this? I certainly can do without the riser if I have to but it turns arranging my tool head into a challenging game of tetris.

 

[Rule3]

I know this thread is older so, hopefully, some of you are still looking.

I have been away from my bench for a long time now and am just getting the free time to really work with this after a long hiatus.

One thing I am still having issues with is the inconsistency between using the riser and not using it. Without the riser, I can make a change in the drop weight and it only takes 5 or 6 drops to balance out and be consistent. When I use the riser, I have to drop 30 or so loads before it becomes consistent. Even then, it is still more like +-.3 grains instead of +-.1 without the riser. I have thoroughly cleaned everything etc.

Anyone else experience this? I certainly can do without the riser if I have to but it turns arranging my tool head into a challenging game of tetris.

What powder are you using. Are you sure that you have screwed the unit in per the directions so that the rotor is turning all the way to the drop position.

You using a handgun or rifle riser? The only need for either riser is to clear the safety prime fixture if you are priming on the press. I use it so have never tried without a riser.

 

[kcofohio]

Adding the riser can sometimes shorten the internal contacts, reducing the actuation, restricting the powder flow. I have had it happen with the Pro-Drum and the Pro-Disk.

Try holding the case up in the die longer, see if will give you more consistency. You may need to adjust to suit.

Which caliber are you loading for?

 

[dave333]

I know this thread is older so, hopefully, some of you are still looking.

I have been away from my bench for a long time now and am just getting the free time to really work with this after a long hiatus.

One thing I am still having issues with is the inconsistency between using the riser and not using it. Without the riser, I can make a change in the drop weight and it only takes 5 or 6 drops to balance out and be consistent. When I use the riser, I have to drop 30 or so loads before it becomes consistent. Even then, it is still more like +-.3 grains instead of +-.1 without the riser. I have thoroughly cleaned everything etc.

Anyone else experience this? I certainly can do without the riser if I have to but it turns arranging my tool head into a challenging game of tetris.

I have never used the riser so Im not sure what effect it will have on the drum. I would suggest double checking the tension on the screw that holds the rotor in the drum. If too tight it will restrict the movement of the rotor, possibly causing variations in the powder charge. I went so far as to mark the openings with a sharpie while the drum was out during a cleaning so when I put it back together I could make sure it was making a full swing.

 

[higgite]

If nothing else works to fix your problem, try this. It helped me solve a similar mystery with my Uniflow. After a powder drop is complete, hold a powder pan or such under the die and vigorously tap on the die without actuating the Pro Drum. If powder falls out, it has somehow been sidetracked as it falls through the die and riser. If so, make about 10 more normal powder drops. Then carefully unscrew the Pro Drum from the riser and look down into the riser and die assembly with a flashlight to see if you can see any powder that didn’t drop all the way through. A dirty or oily spot in the riser, a ledge or lip from mismatched hardware, etc., can wreak havoc on consistency. Could be the riser plunger just needs a good cleaning.

You don't say what powder you're using. Could it be something as simple as powder bridging?

 

[peterson74]

charging on the priming station of a Loadmaster

I have the loadmaster and have been using the Drum for a little while now, and it occurred to me that it might be possible to run the drum on station 2 (the priming station). Yes there will be no primer in it initially, but on the upward stroke there is little powder falling prior to the primer being pushed into the pocket. Has anyone tried this yet? This might free up the 3rd station for a powder cop to be installed. Thoughts?