Strong safe---where

[skykid]

So are you saying the rest of us are too stupid to know the diffrence

 

[a1abdj]

I'm sorry I thought you were the one who posted this, for the 10th time

Yeah, I said that in response to another statement. What does that have to do with anything?

As for the rest of your post it's another example of the old bait and switch sales technique you know and love. Let's throw out a bunch of information that has nothing to do with what were talking about so that the readers attention will be taken off more of the misinformation you're peddling and being called on.

I think you're the master baiter and switcher here.

The other information "I'm throwing out there" is in direct response to what other posters have said. I'm not saying anything random to divert attention away from anything.

 

[BIGGBAY90]

Btn, are you a safe seller or do you repair safes

 

[btn]

No, but if you need a hand getting your safe in, when you finally decide, just let me know. Which borough are you in?

 

[BIGGBAY90]

N ft apache--HOW DO YOU LIKE YOUR SAFE--ARE THE DOORS JUST AS TIGHT

 

[DaveyG]

So now I compare brochures for the AMSEC & Gardall and the 2 units that meet my criteria from either of these companies seem to be the same exact model except for the decal haha they even share the model#
Gardall, GF-5517 (850.00) - Electronic lock.
AMSEF, TF-5517 (599.00) - Combo/dial lock.
Go figure...

 

[BIGGBAY90]

I've seen it for $549 BUT IT SAYS 14GA----FORGET IT, THEY ARE IN CA

 

[Homemade]

well I read through all this just now and thought i would offer my 2 cents.
I dont work in the industry but i have been taught how to break into safes how to manipulate locks and various other devices im paid to do it by my work.
I also am a mechanic and mechanicly inclined.

And I honestly believe that you can defeat any locked device in a given time.

Locks are to just keep honest people honest.
Now I am not defending or attacking anyone here but in my opinion an expert in the field that deals with these devices all the time will have an advantage over a standard thief whos just in the house for a quick score.
if they come in with heavy equipment knowing whats there already they will be going after something specific they think is in there and I dont think anything short of not enough time will stop them from getting into it.
I do own a sturdy safe Terri made for me to my specs I gave him and I love it and its in a room and bolted down in my house.
I also own a few cheaper safes that I have bolted down.
I could get into any of them but I would need a little time to do it.

I have been into his shop and watched them being made.
For the money you are spending your getting a well made product.
anything can be defeated but look at the time and the special tools you will need to defeat a well made product.
Sorry this was long just felt something needed to be said.

And on the tools front i have used special tools for a safe took us 2 days to get in and the next one used different tools took us 5 minutes
and these safes are repaired and re used so they cannot be destroyed while entering them.

 

[BIGGBAY90]

Did you pry open your sturdy safe OR ANOTHER SAFE

 

[Triumph]

Entertaining thread - but can the rest of the members do me a favor and comment on who has their panties in a wad?

 

[btn]

N ft apache--HOW DO YOU LIKE YOUR SAFE--ARE THE DOORS JUST AS TIGHT

No, they're not as tight as the Sturdy. Look at the other thread for some details.

I know Ft Apache the Bronx, thats near where I went to school...

 

[adirondack]

There was some talk about why I used specs for "Perlite Concrete" for Drylight and that my numbers were based on an "assumption".

Yes, that is correct it is an assumption. But AMSEC refers to their insulation as a concrete mix which means by definition: cement, water and an aggregate. Since expanded Perlite is one of the best natural insulators there is and comparable to the high performance, high temperature UL Listed ceramic and glass fiber insulation in the Sturdy Safe design, AMSEC would do well to us it for their aggregate.

But the real secret is that it was the photo of the BF series safe that fell over and torn the 11ga shell away exposing the Drylight underneath. The concrete insulation was white which is characteristic of a high concentration of Perlite in the mix.



Torn skin showing the Drylight



Expanded Perlite



So that's the reason for using Perlite Concrete numbers and I was being generous on the 1:6 ratio based on them reducing the metal content of the BF yet the weight of the safe increased (increased density of the Drylight I.e., less Perlite). http://www.schundler.com/perlcon.htm

AMSEC BF verses Sturdy Fire Lined Heat Transfer Analysis

 

[a1abdj]

But the real secret is that it was the photo of the BF series safe that fell over and torn the 11ga shell away exposing the Drylight underneath.

You mean the body putty/primer you can see in that photo? You will also notice it under the paint everywhere else the paint is scratched.

The drylight is either brown or grey depending on model year. Something like this:

And I'm the one accused of spreading misinformation?

 

[Keizer]

You mean the body putty/primer you can see in that photo?

Exactly! That skin is not torn at all. That is nothing but paint chipping. Funny how stuff takes on a life of its own on the internet. By the way, even a beat up AMSEC still looks elegant.

 

[a1abdj]

Exactly! That skin is not torn at all.

If I recall correctly a forum member may have purchased this safe. I don't recall if he said the skin was actually torn or not.

The more I look at that photo, the more it appears to be a welded seam that has had putty applied prior to painting. It looks like the putty was knocked loose, but does not look like the metal was punctured at all.

There was some talk about why I used specs for "Perlite Concrete" for Drylight and that my numbers were based on an "assumption". Yes, that is correct it is an assumption.

I'd also like to point out that we have a professional engineer, that has been making statements of fact, now admitting that he was basing his "facts" on assumptions.

 

[btn]

If I recall correctly a forum member may have purchased this safe. I don't recall if he said the skin was actually torn or not.

The more I look at that photo, the more it appears to be a welded seam that has had putty applied prior to painting. It looks like the putty was knocked loose, but does not look like the metal was punctured at all.

That skin is not torn at all. That is nothing but paint chipping.

Are you guys joking??? Truly amazing!

And yes a forum member did buy that safe at a very discounted price. I believe you told him he could fix those HOLES with putty and then paint over. And then you made a bunch of excuses when people called into question why an Amsec would have this much damage from a fall during delivery.

But I guess the moral of the story is putty or 11 gauge, is there really much difference?

By the way, even a beat up AMSEC still looks elegant.

Seems like you're the one blinded by your purchase. To me that looks like an ugly 11 gauge safe that couldn't even survive a fall.

 

[a1abdj]

And yes a forum member did buy that safe at a very discounted price. I believe you told him he could fix those HOLES with putty and then paint over. And then you made a bunch of excuses when people called into question why an Amsec would have this much damage from a fall during delivery.

I don't recall every aspect of the conversation, but that sounds about right. I'm not seeing a HOLE in that picture though.

That's really also not that much damage. I can show you some photos of real damage if you'd like. Most of what you're seeing there is simply scratched paint. Is there another photo that isn't posted there that shows the damage on top better?

To me that looks like an ugly 11 gauge safe that couldn't even survive a fall.

Yeah. Looks like the door popped right off of it. I bet the shelves came off too. Travisty I tell you.

Well, well, well. I found where that safe came from. There are more photos that show the damage to the paint:

http://www.safes4you.com/used-safes/bf6030-damaged.html

Per the dealer's description:

This high quality American Security BF6030 Gun Safe has a few imperfections. If a few dents and scratches doesn't bother you, this is the perfect safe for you. This Granite colored BF6030 has an electronic lock, and all of the standard features of a BF safe including a 1/2" steel plate door, 90 minute fire rating, and more.

Doesn't appear that there were any holes in it.

 

[Keizer]

And yes a forum member did buy that safe at a very discounted price.

I would hope so since it has some cosmetic damage.

Seems like you're the one blinded by your purchase.

Not blinded at all! Like I already mentioned earlier, I could break into my AMSEC just as easy as I could your Sturdy....it might just take a little longer with mine.

 

[btn]

Doesn't appear that there were any holes in it.

I'm not seeing a HOLE in that picture

I would hope so since it has some cosmetic damage.

You guys are killing me. Whats in that picture between the pic of the pearlite and the pic of the front of the safe??? Wow you two are simply amazing.

 

[a1abdj]

You guys are killing me. Whats in that picture between the pic of the pearlite and the pic of the front of the safe??? Wow you two are simply amazing.

Not a hole. Perhaps you missed the link and information posted at the end of the last page. It comes directly from the company selling it as a scratch and dent unit. Had their been a hole, they would have mentioned it.

What you're seeing is the edge of the top steel surface where it would have been welded to the steel of the face surface. Sometimes welding is on the surface, and other times it is recessed. It appears that AMSEC is using the recessed version. That would then be filled with putty prior to paint.

What you're looking at is the lost putty. You can see where some of it still remains over the actual weld between the two surfaces.

You're really killing me. You're accusing me of giving misinformation, when you're really the one doing it. I think there's been a few political parties that use that same tactic.

 

[Keizer]

What you're seeing is the edge of the top steel surface where it would have been welded to the steel of the face surface.

Exactly! It's nice that AMSEC actually takes the time to hide and beautify their welds. I guess they could have left them exposed like Terry mentions that they do on the Sturdy safes.

 

[btn]

You may think the rest of us are stupid but we are not blind, the picture is right there for us all to see. No matter how many times you repeat a lie it's still a lie.

Everyone can look at the picture and draw their own conclusion. And then they can decide whether you're credible or not. I considered you about 70% credible before, now I doubt I'd take anything you say on face value.

 

[Keizer]

That is not torn 11 gauge steel. You simply don't have enough facts about that AMSEC in the pics to even be posting it and claiming it's torn open. Anyone looking at that can see that it's cosmetic damage only.

You need to get us some links to the real facts about that safe, including some comments from the guy that bought it.

 

[a1abdj]

You may think the rest of us are stupid but we are not blind, the picture is right there for us all to see.

I didn't want to be the one to say it, but I'm starting to think you may be both. The picture is definately right there, and there certainly doesn't appear to be a hole in it.

Everyone can look at the picture and draw their own conclusion. And then they can decide whether you're credible or not. I considered you about 70% credible before, now I doubt I'd take anything you say on face value.

Or, they can click on the link that I already provided. It was the website of the company selling the safe, and included several photos along with a description.

The seller stated the safe was scratched and dented. I would assume if there was a hole in the safe, he would have mentioned it.

 

[btn]

Here is the picture again. Yea, that's not some torn 11 gauge steel, like you guys said that's just some minor cosmetic damage. A rag and a little windex and it will be just like new!