VZ.58 Club:

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Unfortunately there is no steel reinforcement, which makes me bit sceptical. On the other hand, GE guys are rather perfectionists and they are still testing it.

There should be three variants - black, translucent, and transparent. No word about reduced capacity variant. No info about price either.
I bet they react to increased demand of vz.58 spare parts in Europe. Just recently Poles liberalised their gun laws and whle they still cannot carry, they can now buy semi-auto rifles. And vz.58 is the cheapest european semi-auto...
The times vz.58 mag cost about $3 bucks are over.:mad:
 
Just got my Bonesteel handguard set today. Took a while but that's a different topic.

I have a vZ-2008 and of course they don't seem to fit properly. Specifically the lower seems to short to slide in. Anyone else have a set of bonesteel handguards on a vz-2008?
 
On my last range trip I had 3 light primer strikes on my VZ2008. Have had one other light strike on a previous range trip. Inspected and cleaned afterwords. There was no oil or debris in the striker channel what ever.

This was with Tulammo. Never had any problem with it in a WASR or Saiga so I'm thinking it's not the ammo. Anyone have this problem?
 
Having examined the parts involved in the firing system extensively, it's inconceivable they could 'light strike' anything if working properly. If the striker is moving freely, what about the firing pin? Is the nose worn down or peened flat?

TCB
 
Hmmm... Must be. The primers had just the slightest indension. Know a good source for a firing pin?

Edit
77 rounds fired no problem

Edit:
The firing pin is not flat. It looks round if not pointy.
Striker and pin seem to move freely.
 
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Check headspace. I read elsewhere about someone's vz whose barrel wasn't pressed in properly and the loss in headspace caused failure to fire. I think he was able to get it replaced by century.
 
Is there a way to check headspace without a go.. No go gage other than take it to a smith?

It looks like the extractor should hold the case tight enough to the bolt to pop the primer. Or, could it be the extractor spring is weak?
 
I'm not sure many people trust Bonesteel right now. I would have bought their handguards and vz trigger but I can't get a response from them. I've emailed twice now.

For the last year, I've heard nothing but negative stuff about their customer service and delivery time.
 
Got it on. Took some filing and some plastic mallet smacks. Looks great and seems very snug. Pictures when the project is complete...
 
I never seen any range reports using the bone steel hg in regards to holding zero, what optic you plan on running 9thchild?
 
What's the best part about shooting a Vz?
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Not having to sweep brass! It all gets chucked in front of the firing line!! :neener:
 
new owner, here.. got one of the palmettos for xmas! I could see the stock would be troublesome, so i did a temp/cheap wrap with some raquetball handle tape i had. I'll try it & post a pic. Also have a cnc brake coming.
 
A TRS-25 when I can justify a random $50 purchase to the wife. That thing was such a damn snug fit I would be surprised if it didn't hold well.

I go back and forth on whether or not to even add an optic give how well my VZ variant shoots with irons.
 
Sappy, what looks like very very light primer strikes are a sign of the "VZ58 Gremlin effect", I'm sure someone on here can tell you how to test for it to make sure that's the problem. As far as I know there are 2 cures for it, a tabbed bolt carrier, or a new sear with longer timing built in to prevent the problem. Czechpoint ran down and patented the tabbed bolt carrier so none of the other builders could use it.
 
Thanks Coalbed. I'll google Czechpoint.

I was starting to lean towards an ammo issue as I have had similar issus with Tulammo in other calibers.

Edit:

WOW, I googled "vz58 gremlin" ... Looks like this could be a bit of an issue. Czechpoint doesn't list a tabs bolt that could find.

I'll shoot the VZ this coming weekend and see how it goes.
 
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Contact CzechpointUSA via phone or e-0mail if it's not listed. The tabbed carrier is the best fix.
The TRS-25 is a great red dot - been using one on my vz-58 for years, works great.
Now my vz-58 is warming up to powder coated cast lead bullets - we're having fun :)
 
Ok got one for you guys.

Vz2008 probably around 300-400 rounds noticed this wear on the receiver rail. Looks like it is deeper than the finish. This is the part where the bolt and striker run on. My best guess is it is from the striker, since it is near where the striker tab (part that runs on the rail) stops in the forward position.

Just wanted to see if it was normal or if I should contact century. I've only got till April to use the warranty so I'm trying to put as many rounds as I can afford to catch any potential issues.

Thanks!
 

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I'll bet it's the back contact point of the bolt carrier. When the piston smacks it, the rear end will try to pitch down pretty hard, impacting the rails right about that point. The pictures does make it look like some minor peening is going on, though, which is worrisome (not 'bad;' worrisome)

I would look at the underside of the carrier, and see if there is either a sharp edge, or contact point that doesn't mate nicely and is putting a focused pressure on the rail there. It could be the contact point is worn/machined such that it is slightly inclined, and when driven down into the rail, only contacts its very inside edge (or the rail could be similarly off-planar).

Whatever you do, look for a matching shiny spot on the reciprocating parts, and that'll narrow down your causes :cool:

TCB
 
I have a buddy with a VZ with wear marks like that. It is certainly peening but hard to say if it will become a problem. In all honesty the rifle functions better now that the parts are "fitting" themselves...


HB
 
Czechpoint sells one but it's an overpriced bolt carrier with a seperate tab that you have to have welded on. You can't buy just the tab. Most folks just cut one out 1/16 flat stock and make it themselves. I would advise that if your rifle is under warranty, send it back to Century and have them put the extended sear in, which is their fix for the problem. My Ohio Ordnance uses a simliar extended sear and I've never had any hint of the problem, as it would be just as impossible for it to happen with a sear so long that it stays engaged longer than the cycle of the bolt. (I had early concerns about this when I realized my very expensive rifle didn't have a factory tab. After a few conversations with Ohio, I was assured it was quite impossible to develop this effect with the new semi auto sear, and if ever it did ever, they would repair it for free. So I stopped worrying about it. That's been about 3 years and 5k rounds ago.)
 
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