Wanting to make an Uber accurate squrriel getter 10-22

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The "heart" of any .22 rimfire rifle lies within the barrel and chamber. Even a so-called heavy trigger pull can be "learned", but a .22 rimfire barrel is either accurate, or not.
For the Ruger 10/22, I like and have installed several KIDD carbon fiber wrapped barrels, and they shoot excellent after installation. Not too light, yet weighty enough to steady the shot when potting squirrels for the skillet.
 
Personally I'd go BX trigger and save the hassel of sending out the factory one to be modded. Actually, I'd shoot the snot out of it 1st and let the trigger smooth itself out and then decide.

Rhetorical question,
It's just a squirrel.... unless you're looking for head shots at 100+ yards to preserve the meat, how accurate does it need to be?



As for the triggers, if the OP’s 10/22 has the metal trigger guard that came on older guns I’d send it out to be improved. If it’s one with a newer plastic trigger guard, I’d say just go with the factory BX trigger. My RSI had a plastic guard, so I got my BX trigger for 50 bucks on sale. It took me about ten-fifteen minutes to take the gun down, install the trigger and reassemble. The trigger pull is worlds better than the factory ones and it really makes a difference :thumbup:.


I'm not really disagreeing with you as it all a personal choice of what to mod or just replace.

I can't find it now but Brimstone had on their website for a few years that they feel the plastic trigger is better for them to mod because Ruger held tighter tolerances on the plastic triggers and the end result was better on the plastic trigger.
 
Personally I'd go BX trigger and save the hassel of sending out the factory one to be modded. Actually, I'd shoot the snot out of it 1st and let the trigger smooth itself out and then decide.

Rhetorical question,
It's just a squirrel.... unless you're looking for head shots at 100+ yards to preserve the meat, how accurate does it need to be?






I'm not really disagreeing with you as it all a personal choice of what to mod or just replace.

I can't find it now but Brimstone had on their website for a few years that they feel the plastic trigger is better for them to mod because Ruger held tighter tolerances on the plastic triggers and the end result was better on the plastic trigger.

With a tier2 trigger job from brimstone costing the same as a bx trigger group. It may be a bit more hassle to send your trigger to them but your going to have a better trigger thats cnc machined aluminum with a completely different spring system than the stock/bx triggers and an over travel stop.
That said the bx triggers are nice and ruger should be using that trigger on all 10/22s. Seems like at this point they are only doing it to make money on the accessories.
 
With a tier2 trigger job from brimstone costing the same as a bx trigger group. It may be a bit more hassle to send your trigger to them but your going to have a better trigger thats cnc machined aluminum with a completely different spring system than the stock/bx triggers and an over travel stop.
That said the bx triggers are nice and ruger should be using that trigger on all 10/22s. Seems like at this point they are only doing it to make money on the accessories.

True... I agree.

I've even read that thier bottom tier trigger job is as good or maybe even a tad better than the BX.

If I had enough motivation I'd send in my TD trigger to Brimstone and also buy a BX and compare. The TD has a heavy pull compared to my older metal trigger group 10/22s.
 
Personally I'd go BX trigger and save the hassel of sending out the factory one to be modded. Actually, I'd shoot the snot out of it 1st and let the trigger smooth itself out and then decide.

Rhetorical question,
It's just a squirrel.... unless you're looking for head shots at 100+ yards to preserve the meat, how accurate does it need to be?






I'm not really disagreeing with you as it all a personal choice of what to mod or just replace.

I can't find it now but Brimstone had on their website for a few years that they feel the plastic trigger is better for them to mod because Ruger held tighter tolerances on the plastic triggers and the end result was better on the plastic trigger.
I just like the metal trigger guard parts, it has an old-school look and vibe compared to the newer polymer ones.
I did replace my metal guard with the poly BX unit on my ‘85 10/22. In hindsight, I wish I would’ve had it redone and kept it on the gun to keep it original-looking (I still could, just no reason for having three trigger groups for two guns :)).

Stay safe.
 
I bought an almost unused but beat up 10-22 about ten years ago for a builder project. It had been bought new, fired a few times, then left behind the seat of a ranch truck for several years. The stock was dinged, the barrel scratched and scraped, but the receiver was near perfect. I paid $75 for it, stripped it, gave the barrel to a friend whose 40 year old one was about shot out, and proceeded to build a low budget shooter. A Hogue overmold stock, a Shaw .920 barrel, Volquartsen trigger kit, BSA sweet 22 scope, and a Harris bipod (that moves around to other rifles). It is a very good performer, I can knock down Pasture Poodles at 200yds. So it functions at about 1/2 MOA at that distance. Total cost including the donor (everything bought on sale by searching!) was about $450. I was just using it today as a matter of fact!
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One of the most important features of a HUNTING rifle is the need for consistency in point of impact...from day to day and season to season. Optimal grouping ability isn't as important for hunting as consistency of POI. Such consistency may require free-floating the barrel and having a front/rear two-screw action and about 3" of the rear of the barrel tightly bedded. Wood will shrink-swell by season, so float the barrel beyond the first few inches

If the stock is a very STIFF synthetic, a bull-barrel can be bedded in the forend of the stock with about 8 lbs of uplift force. Bull barrels can help with steadiness, but added weight makes the rifle kind of heavy for longer carries. Aluminum-sleeved barrels could provide added stiffness without extra weight, so might be a good compromise for a hunting rifle.

I've carried my steel bull-barreled 10-22 in the woods and noticed that weight wasn't really comfortable for longer walks, but it helped with steadiness on the longer shots. With age comes desire to limit carry weight and now I tend to use a lighter rifle for hunting and actually prefer using my lighter bolt-actions.



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I just like the metal trigger guard parts, it has an old-school look and vibe compared to the newer polymer ones.
I did replace my metal guard with the poly BX unit on my ‘85 10/22. In hindsight, I wish I would’ve had it redone and kept it on the gun to keep it original-looking (I still could, just no reason for having three trigger groups for two guns :)).

Stay safe.

I'm not a huge fan of "any" plastic injected gun parts. When those trigger guard parts are ejected from the mold, they're not quite solid and can get a bit deformed when they land in the collection bin. Even though some of the Ruger 10/22 triggers are aluminum, they have indeed withstood the test of time and use.
 
https://www.coolguyguns.com/KIDD-22LR-Supergrade-Premium-Rifle-Custom-Build_p_159.html
Mine carted out to $1,680.
This is where I’d go if I was looking for an accurate “10/22”.
(Plus a real stock. The Magpul may be all the rage, but I would need something more beautiful.;))

Tony Kidd does a great job while machining good parts, and I'm a huge fan of his efforts:

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I put this rifle together during the winter doldrums just a few years ago. NO REGERTS :))) at all. Like one of my customers once told me after a quote was given on a custom rifle build he wanted done, "Well, it's only money, it ain't an arm or a leg".
Below is what it looks like for one and a half miles east of my shooting bench. Lots of timber and squirrels. A 100+ yard shot attempt in any direction would be a ridiculous attempt, and even being able to spot a squirrel that far away through the leaves would be quite a miraculous feat! :rofl:
SKbsOfM.jpg
 
In Maine, we have lots of stone walls, in the woods, thanks to some very determined farmers who cut forests, removed rocks and piled them in neat rows. Squirrels tend to like making nests in hollow trees and in branches of others along rock walls. The walls also make it easier for the critters to traverse the landscape while maintaining shelter from predators and provide silent transportation routes year-round.
 
I'm not a huge fan of "any" plastic injected gun parts. When those trigger guard parts are ejected from the mold, they're not quite solid and can get a bit deformed when they land in the collection bin. Even though some of the Ruger 10/22 triggers are aluminum, they have indeed withstood the test of time and use.
I’ll be honest, I was disappointed to see the stainless RSI had a plastic trigger guard...I’m just not a real fan of them at all.

In Maine, we have lots of stone walls, in the woods, thanks to some very determined farmers who cut forests, removed rocks and piled them in neat rows. Squirrels tend to like making nests in hollow trees and in branches of others along rock walls. The walls also make it easier for the critters to traverse the landscape while maintaining shelter from predators and provide silent transportation routes year-round.
My F-I-L lives in Alton, NH. He has one of those 220-year old walls that runs across the lower half of his property and across the neighboring properties as well. They are pretty cool pieces of colonial-era history. :thumbup:

As for the OP’s quest, the guys here have given a bunch of good suggestions, I think you’ll be able to put together a great rifle pretty easily :).

Stay safe.
 
Tony Kidd does a great job while machining good parts, and I'm a huge fan of his efforts:

View attachment 998615

I put this rifle together during the winter doldrums just a few years ago. NO REGRETS :))) at all. Like one of my customers once told me after a quote was given on a custom rifle build he wanted done, "Well, it's only money, it ain't an arm or a leg".
Below is what it looks like for one and a half miles east of my shooting bench. Lots of timber and squirrels. A 100+ yard shot attempt in any direction would be a ridiculous attempt, and even being able to spot a squirrel that far away through the leaves would be quite a miraculous feat! :rofl:
View attachment 998616

That reminds me of when I was hunting squirrels in Sidney Maine, near the Kennebec River the afternoon of a solar eclipse with my trusty 39A Marlin carbine. When the eclipse was starting, it got very quiet and the color of light filtering through the trees was very different, kinda yellowish, but obviously darker. I sat on a fallen log to enjoy the ambiance and when it was over, stood up. A gray squirrel had wandered right behind me and as I rose, it jumped and ran off behind me, which spooked the heck out of me for a few seconds. I didn't even get a shot at that one! He was probably even more rattled than I was.
 
Only changes I have made to my 10/22 is put a 4x22 Weaver scope on it and gotten some BX25 magazines. The mags aren't for squirrel hunting. After the first round the others scatter for awhile. If you have the means and the barrel, a suppressor would be a good investment.
 
A 100+ yard shot attempt in any direction would be a ridiculous attempt,
That looks familiar!:)

For me, it’s about threading the needle, not going long...
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Almost have “leaf-out”, but the springs been cold this year. There’s five or six here. But I’m hunting steel today.:D

Beautiful day today!:thumbup:
 
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