A little road trip to the CMP South store.

Status
Not open for further replies.
Gunny – if that little remark was aimed at me… I have never said the cleaning the stock was anything but a compassionate act. Sanding off the bumps and dings is by far another story.
Not aimed at anyone. It’s just after over 30 years of doing stock work, I find that there is a growing group of Collectors with the mindset of IF YOU DO MORE THEN WIPE IT OFF WITH A DRY PAPER TOWEL, YOU ARE DESTROYING HISTORY.
Those are the ones that know very little of what they speak. But some of their words have gotten into the ears of new Collectors.
While at The CMP, I started talking to a few people about basic repairs and how to stain the hardwood Garand stocks to make them look more like Walnut in color. Nathan showed me a pretty rough Turkish stock. I went over the repairs that were needed and how to get it looking like someone would want it.
One of the ladies working at CMP asked me to join the CMP forum because so many members could use my help. I told her I was a member of the forum but hadn’t posted there in years, due to I was treated like an idiot when I tried to help.
I don’t mean to come off harsh at times, it’s just the old Gunny in me. ;)
 
Last edited:
Well the stock for Matt’s Springfield is almost done. Just waiting for the BLO to cure so it can be waxed.
Here are some pics.
After it was cleaned and boning.
D3045DBC-9752-42B8-8E9B-75EB14C8D69D.jpeg

After BLOwas applied.
BE1A63A5-02FF-4911-AB11-D137DA2BA319.jpeg

After cleaned and bonind.
FC0CE9C9-6C85-4D85-A55B-9F3A0D405E90.jpeg

After BLO. You can make out the eagle on the inspector’s mark.
E11E8086-6A8C-44F0-B91F-304AB3CA54E8.jpeg

Remember that tape on the buttstock?
E290C0F5-3867-4F71-864F-2F7671CBA3AB.jpeg

It came off after cleaning and some denatured alcohol.
0AD389D4-77EB-42E6-9260-C1974EE2DFAC.jpeg

Matt was worried that the mark from the tape would show when we were finished, but I told him to trust me.
A73FCCDF-70B0-44CD-A1BE-C519FFD471B0.jpeg


I’ll do some pics on the Winchester stock a little later.
 
Art, I saw an article in Popular Science from the forties that said the government paid $77 each for the Garands. I figured I paid too much at $165!
Sarge, what is the lowest price Garand they have in Anniston? Shall I make the trip?
 
Still trying to figure out what is written on Matt's stock. I read the 2nd word as Faith and the 3rd word as Love.

"Faith, Hope, and Love" would make sense in the context of 1 Corinthians 13, but I can't quite make out the 1st word.
 
Art, I saw an article in Popular Science from the forties that said the government paid $77 each for the Garands. I figured I paid too much at $165!
Sarge, what is the lowest price Garand they have in Anniston? Shall I make the trip?
The lowest price was $650 on field grade.
Still trying to figure out what is written on Matt's stock. I read the 2nd word as Faith and the 3rd word as Love.

"Faith, Hope, and Love" would make sense in the context of 1 Corinthians 13, but I can't quite make out the 1st word.
Haven’t been able to make out the first word either.
 
Gunny can I bring a couple of stocks down and you show me how to redo them??? I have purchased a few milsurps over the winter and will now start working on them, the only ones I've done before were sks, mosuns, arisakas, 2 Turkish mousers, a spanish mouser and a german mouser. I have an 03a3, 2 garands, 1917 enfield and a no1mk4 that I would like to do this spring.
 
Last edited:
Gunny can I bring a couple of stocks down and you show me how to redo them??? I have purchased a few milsurps over the winter and will now start working on them, the only ones I've done before were sks, mosuns, arisakas, 2 Turkish mousers, a spanish mouser and a german mouser. I have an 03a3, 2 garands, 1917 enfield and a no1mk4 that I would like to do this spring.
Sure. That’s why Matt’s here. We’re working on the two Garands, Chinese Mauser and a Dutch Mannlicher Stock. Plus a little gun hunting.
 
The prez of my gun club sez the only paperwork I need is my American Legion ID card. Lets see if I can order one of the cheap ones with it and $650. Mail order shot in the dark. Thanks gunny.
 
Hey Gunny, ever used raw linseed? I know that it takes longer to cure, but want that reddish pantina as it ages
 
Hey Gunny, ever used raw linseed? I know that it takes longer to cure, but want that reddish pantina as it ages
Raw linseed oil will take a long time to dry. When G. I.s used it they would add paint thinner or something else to help it dry faster. They were basically making BLO. The reddish color comes from oxidation and some times cosmoline. It can take years for the reddish color to develop.
There are shortcuts that you can take. You can use Chestnut Ridge Military Stock Stain. It’s not cheap but works great.
Or you can make your own stain with Rit dye and denatured alcohol. Here is the recipe I use.
Rit powder dye.
Brown #25 = two teaspoons
Scarlet = 1.5 teaspoons
Yellow = 1/8 teaspoon
Put a coffee filter in the top of a wide mouth jar. Use a rubber band to hold the filter. Put your dye in the filter and pour about 1/2 cup of denatured alcohol over the dye. Remove the filter with the dye crystals and throw them away.
Test your dye on the inside of your stock for color. Different types of wood will stain different with the same dye.
If you’re unable to get your dye darker enough by adding more red or brown, just add a little black.
 
Not aimed at anyone. It’s just after over 30 years of doing stock work, I find that there is a growing group of Collectors with the mindset of IF YOU DO MORE THEN WIPE IT OFF WITH A DRY PAPER TOWEL, YOU ARE DESTROYING HISTORY.
Those are the ones that know very little of what they speak. But some of their words have gotten into the ears of new Collectors.
While at The CMP, I started talking to a few people about basic repairs and how to stain the hardwood Garand stocks to make them look more like Walnut in color. Nathan showed me a pretty rough Turkish stock. I went over the repairs that were needed and how to get it looking like someone would want it.
One of the ladies working at CMP asked me to join the CMP forum because so many members could use my help. I told her I was a member of the forum but hadn’t posted there in years, due to I was treated like an idiot when I tried to help.
I don’t mean to come off harsh at times, it’s just the old Gunny in me. ;)

Just checking, and I understand your "Gunny syndrome" but keep in mind that I tend to anthropomorphize. Cleaning the furniture is a kind and compassionate act. But the bumps and dings... Think of the St Crispin soliloquy in Henry V

And say "To-morrow is Saint Crispian."
Then will he strip his sleeve and show his scars,
And say "These wounds I had on Crispin's day."

For all we know that long scratch came from crawling under barb wire at Normandy, that ding near the butt plate from diving to cover at Pusan, the dent in the forearm from smacking the helmet of a snarling North Korean line crosser. The dings, scratches and gouges are much like the almost forgotten attitude in one of my Grandfather's old movies.

Nobody gave me this black eye- I fought for it!

Take that away at the risk of your humanity and the ire of the person's shade that weapon's "ding" represents his getting home. While I am a dyed in the wool civilian I understand that people are made by the tools they have come to depend on. Disrespect the tool and you show contempt for the person. By all means polish the furniture, that is a kind and compassionate act. But leave the sandpaper in the drawer lest you destroy the pride of being gentled on someone's personal St Crispin's day.

(My name is Selena and I am a ranter.)
 
Raw linseed oil will take a long time to dry.
.

How long is a long time? Just received my CMP IHC Service grade, came with a new CMP stock. Using raw linseed oil mixed with some mineral spirits to finish it. Planning on the final coat being straight linseed oil.
 
I mix my RLO with gum turpentine about 50:50. My experience has been the first coat soaks in and dries in a few days. I steel wool between coats so I want it pretty dry. Subsequent coats take longer. Sometimes 2 weeks. I either hand rub it on or use a rag. It's entirely possible that I put it on too heavily.

I lightly steel wool the final coat, and it seems to me that it stays a little bit tacky for months. It's a beautiful finish but not for anyone in a hurry.
 
I'm in Ohio, thinking of making a trip to North Store and watch the CMP forum North Store reports for several weeks. Seems like pretty empty on Garands!:( Those 100K Turkey Garands probably all delivered to the South Store! They probably forgot North is where they do National Matches.

When I was actively shopping at CMP 8-10 years ago, Anniston inspected and processed all the rifles. Periodically, they would ship rifles to the north store.

I'm not sure what their stocking criteria was.

Watching the CMP forum is a good way to learn what the various stores have. Folks used to make reports of what was in stock after they visited the stores.
 
There were also issues with the Korean deal because Century Arms wanted to buy them and import them. The DOD cried foul because the guns are still, technically, US property and not for sale to a 3rd party. I don't know if the CMP has made recent overtures to the Koreans.....

As I understand there were basically two programs that the US government used to distribute Garands to other nations back in the day.

First, there was a loan program. The receiving country could keep the Garands for as long as they wanted but when they were finished with the Garands, they had to be returned to the United States.

Second, the receiving country could buy the Garands. These Garands were then no longer property of the US governement and the receiving country could do what they want with them.

The Korean Garands and M1 carbines were purchased by Korea and that is where the rub is. The only way those rifles can return to the United states is through an importer and the US government can prevent the importation of the rifles.
 
How long is a long time? Just received my CMP IHC Service grade, came with a new CMP stock. Using raw linseed oil mixed with some mineral spirits to finish it. Planning on the final coat being straight linseed oil.
Using Gun turpentine like Laphroaig does take a long time to dry, raw linseed oil without a dryer will take weeks.
Mineral spirit will cut down the drying time to a day or two between coats.
For the finish to oxidize to that pretty red, that can take years.
On your new stock the grain will be open. To fill the grain you can use 0000 steel wool to do scrub coats after your first coat is applied.
First coat. Apply heavy. Rub in very good. Let sit 30 min. then wipe dry.
Allow the stock to dry.
Now start scrub coats. Wet your steel wool with your oil and rub it into the stock. Keep the steel wool wet but not to wet. The steel wool will remove very little wood that will work as a filler, so you don’t want much oil on the stock. After scrubbing rub the stock by hand. You want to rub till your hand gets hot. The stock should look almost dry = no wet oil on the surface. Allow the stock to dry for 3 or 4 days. You may need to do 3 or 4 scrub coats.
This sounds like fun.
Well, we finished Matt’s M1 last night and we’re headed to the range. I’ll post pics when we get back.
 
On your new stock the grain will be open. To fill the grain you can use 0000 steel wool to do scrub coats after your first coat is applied.
First coat. Apply heavy. Rub in very good. Let sit 30 min. then wipe dry.
Allow the stock to dry.
Now start scrub coats. Wet your steel wool with your oil and rub it into the stock. Keep the steel wool wet but not to wet. The steel wool will remove very little wood that will work as a filler, so you don’t want much oil on the stock. After scrubbing rub the stock by hand. You want to rub till your hand gets hot. The stock should look almost dry = no wet oil on the surface. Allow the stock to dry for 3 or 4 days. You may need to do 3 or 4 scrub coats.

I'm going to try this method next time. I had always thought/heard that turpentine was the preferred thinning agent for RLO. If something else, like mineral spirits, can speed the process up I'm game.
 
I'm going to try this method next time. I had always thought/heard that turpentine was the preferred thinning agent for RLO. If something else, like mineral spirits, can speed the process up I'm game.
The only thing that I know Raw linseed oil is used for these days is oil painting. ;) Using it to make BLO is kind of like making your own toothpicks.

Here is Matt’s Springfield all finished. EFC235CD-F26C-4D84-9DD5-CFC4A7A0E039.jpeg A5406844-7A56-41E5-BB2B-E571A5AB91BF.jpeg 59B6C52E-75E5-4F98-B873-D782F393151F.jpeg


I was finely able to read the writing on the stock. It’s two names and the word love.

MIKOE
KAITH
LOVE
8BF8A820-A5B2-497A-9CB5-0010037738EF.jpeg

The rifle was very loose in the stock so, I built up this area and refitted the action.
303CF3C5-8E0F-4712-9960-26B113157CF9.jpeg
We went to the indoor range today to see how it shot. We hat no trouble keeping 8 shots in 2.5 to 3 inch groups. With some 1967 Lake City ammo.
Here’s Matt shooting his new baby.
EE4F9B10-24E1-4921-A936-40AD39174338.jpeg
 
Just checking, and I understand your "Gunny syndrome" but keep in mind that I tend to anthropomorphize. Cleaning the furniture is a kind and compassionate act. But the bumps and dings... Think of the St Crispin soliloquy in Henry V



For all we know that long scratch came from crawling under barb wire at Normandy, that ding near the butt plate from diving to cover at Pusan, the dent in the forearm from smacking the helmet of a snarling North Korean line crosser. The dings, scratches and gouges are much like the almost forgotten attitude in one of my Grandfather's old movies.

Nobody gave me this black eye- I fought for it!

Take that away at the risk of your humanity and the ire of the person's shade that weapon's "ding" represents his getting home. While I am a dyed in the wool civilian I understand that people are made by the tools they have come to depend on. Disrespect the tool and you show contempt for the person. By all means polish the furniture, that is a kind and compassionate act. But leave the sandpaper in the drawer lest you destroy the pride of being gentled on someone's personal St Crispin's day.

(My name is Selena and I am a ranter.)
I understand. I believe the scars on these old warhorses serve as a reminder of the price that was paid for freedom. Removing the scars is like removing history.
Sometimes repairs are needed when doing restoration. The key is to make the repair match and look like it was done years ago.
Here is a repair on a Dutch stock I finished two hours ago. There was a big glob of brown epoxy there that l cut out yesterday.
507878B6-CE9D-47B3-BE87-698F0E0B0F90.jpeg
E9B60DB8-4C32-49D0-A4F5-AB3E21641944.jpeg
 
When I was actively shopping at CMP 8-10 years ago, Anniston inspected and processed all the rifles. Periodically, they would ship rifles to the north store.

I'm not sure what their stocking criteria was.

Watching the CMP forum is a good way to learn what the various stores have. Folks used to make reports of what was in stock after they visited the stores.


That is still the process. I got to tour the Anniston facility in February when I went to their Armorers Course. I got to see the pallets from Turkey, and the Phillipines. They still take them down, inspect and reassemble (although not necessarily in the same barreled action they arrived in) and shoot them in a test rig in the facility. Them they move them out front, to the North Store, or out to customers. They stressed the priority is still on the mail orders. You see more oddball 1903's, Rack Grades, M1Ds, and others that are in too small of a quantity to do a proper mail order on in the stores.

And the south store has a member who reports daily on the store contents. North store still has some, just not as many.
 
Gunny, thanks for all the advice! I've marked this thread so I can come back to it when I go to refinish my stock, CMP new wood. At gunsmith's now getting the once over so I can actually shoot it!
 
Feibings Dark Brown leather dye is almost a dead match to the chestnut ridge stain. You can get that at Tandy leather.

Best investment I ever made was CMP rifles. I love cutting open the box and seeing what's inside.
 
There were also issues with the Korean deal because Century Arms wanted to buy them and import them. The DOD cried foul because the guns are still, technically, US property and not for sale to a 3rd party. I don't know if the CMP has made recent overtures to the Koreans.
Uhm, no.
The "Korean" rifles were bought by ROK, and were to be imported by several firms, and Century wanted to be top of the list.
The State Department (and a certain SecState) flat our refused to ok the importation deal. The actual Korean owner was the National Police, too.

The Koreans, allegedly, have no more LendLease US stuff in their inventory.

Ah, @cfullgraf covered this nicely.

BHO had nothing to do with the thing, and was happy to let the hot potato belong to somebody else. Particularly with qoutes like "Preventing military assault weapons" (M1 Carbines) "from falling into the hands of gangs and criminals."
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top