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GunnyUSMC
Member
The clip can be left on. If you have to sand or buff with steel wool just tape it off.
I’m not sure if I could fall in love with Hackberry.
A little road trip to the CMP South store.
- Thread starter GunnyUSMC
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I’m not sure if I could fall in love with Hackberry.
HankC- I'm not doing the upper handguards...................yet. All the hardware is removed quite easily from the lower. If and when I do the front upper (the easy part) I will just mask the hardware in order to prevent splits as I dont have the proper tool for removal.
Gunny, the first oiling surprised me as the BLO got sucked up into the wood like crazy. Some people might say "Hackwood sucks" and they are right when it comes to linseed oil.
I am surprised to see the color is just where I was trying to go with the alcohol stain. I believe the oil will contribute to the darkening effect with time and more closely match the rear walnut upper HG.
It's hung out to dry for a few hours in the fresh air.
Gunny, the first oiling surprised me as the BLO got sucked up into the wood like crazy. Some people might say "Hackwood sucks" and they are right when it comes to linseed oil.
I am surprised to see the color is just where I was trying to go with the alcohol stain. I believe the oil will contribute to the darkening effect with time and more closely match the rear walnut upper HG.
It's hung out to dry for a few hours in the fresh air.
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GunnyUSMC
Member
You stock is looking good. 
When it soaks up the oil on the first coat. allow it to sit for 30 min then wipe it down and let it sit for 24 hrs. If it soaks up the 2nd coat of oil, let it sit the 30 min, wipe it dry and let it sit for two days. This will allow more time for the oil in the stock to cure.
If you just keep letting the oil soak in the stock will become oil soaked and heavy.
By giving the oil in the wood time to cure, it will stop soaking up the oil.
Then it's time to start doing polish coats. Apply just a little oil and bub it in till it is warm. This will cause the wood grain to really start to show. You will still need to let the stock sit for 30 min then wipe it down. and wait 24 hours before your next polish coat. you will only need 2 or 3 polish coats. Wait 48 hours before applying your wax top coat.
When it soaks up the oil on the first coat. allow it to sit for 30 min then wipe it down and let it sit for 24 hrs. If it soaks up the 2nd coat of oil, let it sit the 30 min, wipe it dry and let it sit for two days. This will allow more time for the oil in the stock to cure.
If you just keep letting the oil soak in the stock will become oil soaked and heavy.
By giving the oil in the wood time to cure, it will stop soaking up the oil.
Then it's time to start doing polish coats. Apply just a little oil and bub it in till it is warm. This will cause the wood grain to really start to show. You will still need to let the stock sit for 30 min then wipe it down. and wait 24 hours before your next polish coat. you will only need 2 or 3 polish coats. Wait 48 hours before applying your wax top coat.
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The stock looks great with Dark Brown Rite Dye, I bought Cocoa Brown Rit Dye instead thinking dark brown may be too dark and turns a bit reddish I heard, but I maybe wrong! I guess I will go dark brown as well. Maybe first coat with dark brown, let it soaked into the grain, rub or wash off and 2nd coat with lighter Cocoa Brown to have a different tone.
Gunny, why use steel wool to buff smooth the stain, would Scotch pad more gentle and better? I've learned not to use the green one, it leaves green residual!
1st coat BLO should be thinned or full strength?
Gunny, why use steel wool to buff smooth the stain, would Scotch pad more gentle and better? I've learned not to use the green one, it leaves green residual!
1st coat BLO should be thinned or full strength?
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GunnyUSMC
Member
The dark brown is used as a base coat on wood that has very little color. It helps to give hardwood the look of Walnut. It is applied as a water base straight from the bottle. A lot of the pigment will dry on the surface giving you a dull brown color. You have to buff the pigment off the surface to let the wood grain show. Also the water base dye will raise the grain a little. You can use a Scotch pad but I have found that 0000 steel wool works best.
When buffing, you are trying to get an even look. If you buff off to much, just reapply the brown and buff again.
Hardwoods tend to take on more red color from alcohol base dyes. The brown base coat will help to tone down the reddish color.
Here is a Savage 110 Birch stock with the same finish.
The supplies .
Stripped and lightly sanded.
After the brown base coat was applied and buffed.
Stained with med brown alcohol base dye and BLO rubbed in.
Wax top coat applied.
Now the natural color of the wood will effect the final outcome of the finish. Here is a before and after pic of a ZV52 stock that I did some major repairs to.
adcoch1
Member
Those are both gorgeous! I have an old 110 with that birch stock.... Hmmm...
Hillbillyz
Member
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I kind of like the look of that hackberry stock. Would prefer something else, but it has a nice grain. Like others I appreciate the info you gentlemen have been providing.
Thank you ALL for your friendly backing. Without the mentoring of Gunny, this unqualified wood butcher (ME) would have created a "Homer Simpson" mess out of the painted stock. I repeat painted, as that is what it was. Now all I have to do is finish my stock with the final polishing coats.
My wife says I now qualify for doing her nails.
Gunny you are very generous in offering a free Hackberry stock job to two people. Your fine work is to be commended. Not only in gun stocks, but in photography. Your choice of background material is nothing short of artistic and to me "Magical."
My old 840K pixel Sony Mavica camera still works, but as you can see the resolution makes my pictures more comparable to black and white TV of the 50's.
I am now contemplating the re-finishing of the birch upper of my M1...
My wife says I now qualify for doing her nails.
Gunny you are very generous in offering a free Hackberry stock job to two people. Your fine work is to be commended. Not only in gun stocks, but in photography. Your choice of background material is nothing short of artistic and to me "Magical."
My old 840K pixel Sony Mavica camera still works, but as you can see the resolution makes my pictures more comparable to black and white TV of the 50's.
I am now contemplating the re-finishing of the birch upper of my M1...
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GunnyUSMC
Member
You have done very good with your stock. I think that when people see it for the first time, they will be amazed when they find out that it is Hackberry.Thank you ALL for your friendly backing. Without the mentoring of Gunny, this unqualified wood butcher (ME) would have created a "Homer Simpson" mess out of the painted stock. I repeat painted, as that is what it was. Now all I have to do is finish my stock with the final polishing coats.
My wife says I now qualify for doing her nails.
Gunny you are very generous in offering a free Hackberry stock job to two people. Your fine work is to be commended. Not only in gun stocks, but in photography. Your choice of background material is nothing short of artistic and to me "Magical."
My old 840K pixel Sony Mavica camera still works, but as you can see the resolution makes my pictures more comparable to black and white TV of the 50's.
I am now contemplating the re-finishing of the birch upper of my M1...
I enjoyed talking on the phone yesterday. Sorry that it was hard to understand me, but I’m getting better at speaking again.
Thank you for the compliment on my stock. You did it!
Gunny- you take it easy and don't try to talk. Too much exertion can be harmful.
I know, I'm just about 75 and have a 3 digit social security number. I'm ready to see my doctor about a handicap parking tag and my dachshunds lounge in my La-Z-Boy chair. I fight for it and they beat me up!
Don't stop working, but do cut down on it! Keep up the banter and pictures!
Gunny- you take it easy and don't try to talk. Too much exertion can be harmful.
I know, I'm just about 75 and have a 3 digit social security number. I'm ready to see my doctor about a handicap parking tag and my dachshunds lounge in my La-Z-Boy chair. I fight for it and they beat me up!
Don't stop working, but do cut down on it! Keep up the banter and pictures!
Gunny, how do you repair the damage to the toe of the butt in this thread, appears missing wood that needs to be filled. Do you use wood filler to fill the missing wood? What type? If commercial, what brand? I can't find a wood filler takes stain well. Your picture in post #4 can't even tell it was repaired, blends so well.
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GunnyUSMC
Member
You are right. Wood filler does not stain and doesn’t look good.
I use Brownell’s Acraglas to do my repairs. I never use the brown dye that comes with the kits, the natural color blends better.
There is a way to mix sanding dust to make a filler with Acraglas. You have to use a dust that is lighter then the wood you are repairing. This is because when the filler dries it will be the color as if it were wet. I keep a few cups with different colors of sanding dust. I wet my finger tip with denatured alcohol and touch the dust. This will let you know what it will look like when mixed with the Acraglas.
bbqreloader
Member
Ok Gunny, am I on the right track? Used a commercial stripper to get the CMP stuff off. Gave it a “kiss” of super fine sanding just to knock any burrs off. I have the Rit dyes and picked up a hard wood dowel for the boning, after the first coat of BLO.
Just asking for a quick sight check. Thanks for the help and experience behind it!!!
Just asking for a quick sight check. Thanks for the help and experience behind it!!!
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GunnyUSMC
Member
First apply the liquid Rit #25 brown. Let it dry the buff with 0000 steel wool until you start to see the wood grain.
Mix the powder Rit dye and test the color on the inside of the stock. Once you have the color you like apply the dye to the stock.
Here is where you can start boning or apply your first coat of BLO. I recommend if the stock is dry, apply your first coat of BLO before boning.
Mix the powder Rit dye and test the color on the inside of the stock. Once you have the color you like apply the dye to the stock.
Here is where you can start boning or apply your first coat of BLO. I recommend if the stock is dry, apply your first coat of BLO before boning.
bbqreloader
Member
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bbqreloader
Member
Now Im with you, was thinking it was just mix up the dye mixture and apply (pg 3 of thread) but now I see that I have to do the liquid first for a base then the dye mix
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Took my M1 to the range today and shot a few clips of 30:06. Two skeet shooters came to shoot the breeze before they went home. One of them said :"Jeeze thats a good lookin' M1" I told them an old Marine Sargent did the stock. They never heard of Hackberry! Thanks Gunny. You the Man!
bbqreloader
Member
HOT DOG! Gunny does it again!! Completed dye job per your instructions, added 1 more tsp brown to knock down the red a tad and BAM! Turned out just like I wanted, first coat of BLO up next tomorrow! Thanks again Gunny!!
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Deus Machina
Member
This whole thread reminded me that once I have the means, I'm going to get myself to the CMP.
When I get more than ramen money, I'll happily toss $650 at a Garand.
When I get more than ramen money, I'll happily toss $650 at a Garand.
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GunnyUSMC
Member
That came out nice.
bbqreloader
Member
Ok, so follow up question for BLO, did anyone do the inside of the stock also, or is it just the outside that gets it?
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GunnyUSMC
Member
I apply a light coat to the inside .
Nice work. Now everybody wants a hackberry stock!
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GunnyUSMC
Member
While I was at the CMP store, I was telling a guy how to mix the dye to try and stain his Hackberry stock, when another guy walked up and said that it wouldn’t work.
Reloadron
Contributing Member
Well if it won't work then how come it works and works quite well? Must be a miracle huh?While I was at the CMP store, I was telling a guy how to mix the dye to try and stain his Hackberry stock, when another guy walked up and said that it wouldn’t work.
Ron
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