A little road trip to the CMP South store.

[theotherwaldo]

-That's how an M-1 stock should look. It has obviously been there and done that.
Most of the replacement stocks are bland, figure-less wood with no character -at least, no figure as of yet.
Maybe give them fifty years of use and care... .

 

[bbqreloader]

Gunny, when you remove the rear handguard, do you remove the front barrel band pin and pull the guard forward or do you have the clip tool and remove the rear band that way?

 

[GunnyUSMC]

Gunny, when you remove the rear handguard, do you remove the front barrel band pin and pull the guard forward or do you have the clip tool and remove the rear band that way?

I remove the barrel band. I don't have the clip tool.

 

[P5 Guy]

The tool is essential for removing the band from the guard. The guards split easily if you remove the band without it. Please do not ask me to recount how I know this.

 

[Reloadron]

The tool is essential for removing the band from the guard. The guards split easily if you remove the band without it. Please do not ask me to recount how I know this.

How do you know that? There is nothing on an M1 Garand which cannot be removed without the simple use of a slotted screwdriver and a hammer. Granted that sometimes a large hammer but most hammers work fine.

Ron

 

[HankC]

Is there a drawing, plan or instructions on how to make a handguard clip plier? I know it is available for $18 on ebay but it looks so simple to make one myself. I googled, did not find one but I found folks do the "rope trick". Not sure if I want to try the trick, plier is a safer bet.

 

[Reloadron]

Is there a drawing, plan or instructions on how to make a handguard clip plier? I know it is available for $18 on ebay but it looks so simple to make one myself. I googled, did not find one but I found folks do the "rope trick". Not sure if I want to try the trick, plier is a safer bet.

You may be able to modify a pair of snap ring pliers but all things considered if you remove and change the bands in any quantity the $18 is worth the price. The tool has hard tips made to "grab" the band and spread it. The tool I have is about 25 years old and is .2" thick. It takes considerable force to spread those suckers. I could add some dimensions to the below image but by the time you try to build one it is easier to buy and cry once.



Ron

 

[P5 Guy]

How do you know that? There is nothing on an M1 Garand which cannot be removed without the simple use of a slotted screwdriver and a hammer. Granted that sometimes a large hammer but most hammers work fine.

Ron

I tried the hook and vise method and split my hand guard right down the middle. The pliers are the best way to get that band off the guard.

 

[Reloadron]

I tried the hook and vise method and split my hand guard right down the middle. The pliers are the best way to get that band off the guard.

Figured that's how you knew that.

When using the tool made for this I found it best to set the handguard on a flat surface and as you squeeze the tool apply downward pressure so the tool grabs and remains on the clip. When the tool slips off the clip it can grab the palm of your hand (ouch) leaving what I call a blood blister which sucks!

Ron

 

[GunnyUSMC]

Well I’m a little closer to finishing up. I started with the wax top coat last night. I’ve been using Tom’s 1/3 Mix Military Gunstock Wax for years. I still have two of the old metal tins. Yeats ago I made my own 1/3 wax mix, but Tom does a mush better job and I no longer have to clean up the mess from making it.


You just rub the wax to get it soft and start rubbing it into the stock. Once you have it rubbed in good just let it sit for 30 min. to an hour and buff with a soft cloth. I like to wait 12 to 24 hours and apply another coat of wax, but not as heavy as the first. I’ll put the last coat on today and have the rifle finished by tomorrow.

 

[Reloadron]

Nice luster it produces.

Ron

 

[GunnyUSMC]

Here it is with the first wax coat applied. Just need to do one more coat tonight and put it back together tomorrow.

 

[H&R Glock]

Gunny, I had to thump the wrist of the stock hard to dislodge the stock. More so than with my old M1. There is a stamped date inside the stock. Most of tit is defaced but you can read 2018!
I did some research on "Hackberry" as you mentioned my new stock was probably fashioned form this wood.

The experts say the Hackwood is primarily suited for making shipping pallates and kindling, however, few people can make decent furniture out of it. Please look at my pictures.

 

[HankC]

Majority of field grades now come with the hackberry stocks, I went to North Store, full double sided rack of field grade and only one does not wear hackberry stock. I guess CMP feels confident enough on the wood! Time will tell. Hackberry is also used for furniture and kitchen cabinets, accordingly to Dr. Google, one reason it was not used extensively is because it develops blue stain unless dried within 24 hrs from harvest. My garand also comes with hackberry, the finish is a painted finish, expose the pale wood if chipped. Will need to remove the finish, stain and refinish with oil. The wood does have a nice grain under the paint. While it is a light pale wood, I'm think stain it to grey like Boyd's "Pepper" color instead of fake walnut brown. I have a mauser in Pepper, look nice and get praised a lot at range.
By the way Gunny's deck in the background is sort of "pepper" color!

 

[GunnyUSMC]

Hackberry will not stain well with an oil base stain. An alcohol base stain, or dye will be needed. The finish on the stock will need to be removed.

 

[GunnyUSMC]

Here’s the stock all finished.


And here’s the rifle all back together. I’ll get som better pics when the light is better.

 

[HankC]

Nice work. Thank you for posting the process to restore the stock. But it is an old well used stock you know, want to trade for a brand new hackberry CMP certified stock?

 

[GunnyUSMC]

Nice work. Thank you for posting the process to restore the stock. But it is an old well used stock you know, want to trade for a brand new hackberry CMP certified stock?

As tempting as the offer is, I’ll pass on that Hackberry stock.

 

[bbqreloader]

Here’s the stock all finished.
View attachment 789206 View attachment 789208

And here’s the rifle all back together. I’ll get som better pics when the light is better.
View attachment 789207

Turned out great!

 

[Derek Zeanah]

I just wanted to say "thanks" to Gunny. There's a lot of useful and interesting info here, and I know what a PITA it can be to document and post all those photos.

 

[Reloadron]

When all was said and done Gunny the rifle came out really nice. I think you pretty much captured the look that you were seeking. A real nice job and many thanks for sharing the work through the entire process.

Semper Fi
Ron

 

[GunnyUSMC]

Here are some better pics.
Here’s the rifle before I started working on it. It’s the one on the bottom.


And here it is all done.

 

[H&R Glock]

Gunny, after the second application of the new stripper (for stain) I'm beginning to see some grain in the Hackberry or Dingleberry wood (whatever you call it.). It is definately starting to look like a shipping pallet with the lines of an M1.
My wife wants to know if this stripper will remove the fur from my dachshund.

 

[H&R Glock]

HankC--- pay close attention! You too could be the proud owner of a shipping pallet gun stock like mine. Tune in soon for the staining and final mismatch marrage of upper and lower Hackwood stock. Hey, can't you buy a new walnut stock somewhere for about $90? Maybe camo paint job at Earl Schibe?

 

[theotherwaldo]

Yeah, hackberry is weird wood. I've got a bunch of hackberry trees in my yard and I use it for knife hilts, sheaths, pistol grips, small parts, and other odds and ends. It works pretty well and can have interesting figure but it turns odd colors if it isn't dried quickly after felling. It's also fast-growing, so the grain is usually pretty coarse.
If kiln-dried and shaped properly then I wouldn't mind it as a rifle stock. It's actually better looking than most birch.
I'd still prefer the original wood, of course.