Condition 1 mishaps?

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I have a problem with the Series 80 firing pin safety.

On several occasions I have examined a pistol where either the lock plunger or firing pin were battered because the lever system was not raising the plunger high enough to clear the firing pin. The usual cause was a backlash screw in the trigger restricting the trigger’s full travel, but in one case the lever (or levers) were at fault. In theory, if not practice, this could cause the firing pin to make a light hit, or to not hit at all. While this situation may be improbable it is certainly not impossible. The setscrew in the trigger is easy to fix, the other causes may be less so.

If, over it’s long history the pistol had developed a reputation for accidental discharges attributable to the original Browning design I would feel differently, but I think such incidents are very rare - particularly when the firing pin and spring are well maintained.

The safety was designed to meet legal concerns, and to be something that could be assembled quickly without hand fitting beyond changing out levers and/or the firing pin stop. John Browning’s thinking was not dictated by a bunch of attorneys. Unfortunately today’s decisions often are at the manufacturer level. As far as I’m concerned they can keep their perceptions away from my personal sidearms. The drive for endless and questionable safeties is coming from the anti-gun movement, not from users.
 
Lawyer Safe

Old Fluff said:

The drive for endless and questionable safeties is coming from the anti-gun movement, not from users.

Testify! Can I get an AMEN?

Fluff, I've run into that problem a couple of times myself. No failures to
fire, but could have been with just a little effort. It was usually the result
of crud built up behind the trigger shoe restricting travel...but once I
had to replace the #1 plunger lever with a #2 to get more lift. Also
replaced the plunger instead of smoothing out the dings. For future reference, with the trigger pulled and held to the rear, the top of the lever should be .100-.115 inch from the top of the frame rail. Less than that is "iffy", though I've checked a few at .090 that worked perfectly, so it doesn't seem to be the lift so much as it is the timing or possibly a combination of that and the tolerance of the plunger itself.

Cheers all!

Tuner
 
My advice is to spend 4 bucks for the frame shim just in case. I have one with each operational Series 80 pistol that I own in a hollowed-out area of the grip. Cheap insurance.
1911Tuner, can you clarify this for me? What is a "frame shim" and how does it affect a Series 80 safety mechanism?

TIA
 
When the Series 80 parts are removed a gap is left between the sear and the inside of the frame. The shim fills this gap. They can be purchased through Brownells, and many other vendors for 1911 parts.
 
I think what scares people is seeing the hammer cocked back. It looks like it could just go off. I've carried a 1911 in condition 1 for years and never had a problem. Think of the cocked hammer on a 1911 like a cocked DA pistol. My 1911 in condition 1 is no more dangerous than my wifes Kahr K9 with one in the chamber. When the rack the slide on a K9 the firing mechanism is cocked back and ready to go its just that you cant see it.

To many follow the "what you cant see cant hurt" you principle. :)
 
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