Mobil 1 Synthetic

Status
Not open for further replies.
G

Gun Slinger

member
Joined
Jul 25, 2007
Messages
777
Hello,

I am new to the Forum and thought that I would provide information that relates to the use of Mobil1 Synthetic as an alternative small arms lubricant.

I researched the performance specifications of various grades of Mobil 1 and the information follows below.

Since Mobil 1 is subjected to such extreme conditions (in terms of thermal stress, oxidation and pressure) inside of an internal combustion engine, it appears that it should possess both adequate film and barrier strength to serve as a small arms lubricant.

The criteria that these lubricants were evaluated by are:

1. Pour Point (P/P): The lowest temperature (in degrees F) at which the lubricant will flow within a specified timeframe.
Minimum requirement: -50 F

2. Flash Point (F/P): The lowest temperature (in degrees F) at which the lubricant will produce vapors that, if subjected to an ignition source, will ignite and combust.
Minimum requirement: +450 F

3. Viscosity at 100 F (V/100): The viscosity (in centistokes) of the lubricant at 100 F.
Minimum requirement: 40.00 cSt

4. Viscosity at 212 F (V/212): The viscosity of the lubricant (in centistokes) at 212 F.
Minimum requirement: 8.00 cSt

As a point of reference, the kinematic viscosity of pure water at:
68 F (room temperature) is 1.004 cSt
100 F is 0.658 cSt
212 F is 0.294 cSt

5. Transient Operating Range (TOR): The sum of the absolute values of the Pour Point (P/P) and the Flash Point (F/P).
Minimum requirement: 500 F

6. Viscosity Index (VI): An arbitrary numerical value assigned to a lubricant indicating its ability to retain its viscosity across a specified temperature range.
Minimum requirement: 110 (Very High)

Low VI: 35 or lower
Medium VI: 35-80
High VI: 80-110
Very High VI: 110 or higher

Data for Mobil 1 Synthetic Lubricants:

0W20
P/P: -70.6 F
F/P: +449.6 F
V/100: 43.0 cSt
V/212: 8.4 cSt
TOR: 520.2 F
VI: 176

0W30
P/P: -65.2 F
F/P: +456.8 F
V/100: 63.1 cSt
V/212: 11.0 cSt
TOR: 522.0 F
VI: 169

0W40
P/P: -65.2 F
F/P: +456.8 F
V/100: 80.0 cSt
V/212: 14.3 cSt
TOR: 522.0 F
VI:188

5W20
P/P: -52.6 F
F/P: +442.4 F
V/100: 48.3 cSt
V/212: 8.8 cSt
TOR: 495.0 F
VI: 164

5W30
P/P: -65.2 F
F/P: +446.0 F
V/100: 64.8 cSt
V/212: 11.3 cSt
TOR: 511.2 F
VI: 171

5W40
P/P: -49.0 F
F/P: +438.8 F
V/100: 102.0 cSt
V/212: 14.8 cSt
TOR: 487.8 F
VI: 152

5W50
P/P: -65.2 F
F/P: +456.8 F
V/100: 104.9 cSt
V/212: 17.5 cSt
TOR: 522.0 F
VI: 184

10W30
P/P: -49.0 F
F/P: +453.2 F
V/100: 62.0 cSt
V/212: 10.0 cSt
TOR: 484.2 F
VI: 148

10W40 (MX4T)
P/P: -65.2 F
F/P: +487.4 F
V/100: 86.0 cSt
V/212: 13.8 cSt
TOR: 552.6 F
VI: 166

15W50
P/P: -49.0 F
F/P: +446.0 F
V/100: 125.0 cSt
V/212: 17.4 cSt
TOR: 495.0 F
VI: 153

20W50 (VTWIN)
P/P: -59.8 F
F/P: +518.0 F
V/100: 130.0 cSt
V/212: 17.7 cSt
TOR: 577.8 F
VI: 151

75W90
P/P: -50.8 F
F/P: +347.0 F
V/100: 106.0 cSt
V/212: 15.2 cSt
TOR: 397.8 F
VI: 151

75W140
P/P: -59.8 F
F/P: +429.8 F
V/100: 179.0 cSt
V/212: 25.3 cSt
TOR: 489.6 F
VI: 175

SYNTHETIC ATF
P/P: -65.2 F
F/P: +456.8 F
V/100: 34.0 cSt
V/212: 7.6 cSt
TOR: 522.0 F
VI: 203

JET OIL II
P/P: -74.2 F
F/P: +518.0 F
V/100: 27.6 cSt
V/212: 5.1 cSt
TOR: 592.2 F
VI: 113

JET OIL 254
P/P: -79.6 F
F/P: +489.0 F
V/100: 26.4 cSt
V/212: 5.3 cSt
TOR: 568.6 F
VI: 137

JET OIL 284
P/P: -70.6 F
F/P: +442.4 F
V/100: 17.6 cSt
V/212: 4.0 cSt
TOR: 513.0 F
VI: 128

MILITEC-1 (for comparison purposes only)
P/P: -45.0 F
F/P: +455.0 F
V/100: 43.41 cSt
V/212: 5.63 cSt
TOR: 500.0 F
VI: 63


Top 5 Criteria Compliant Grades:

1. 20W50 (VTWIN)
2. 10W40 (MX4T)
3. 5W50
4. 0W40
5. 0w30


Regards,
G/S
 
Its too thin by itself, you need to thicken it up.

I use a home brew lubricant that really sticks to metal parts VERY well and has not dried up on me ever.
I shot through 500 rounds on my 1911 one day and there was still lubricant on the barrel, lugs etc even though it was almost glowing hot at one point.

I use 10W30 mobil 1 synthetic, mixed with dexron III ATF and some STP oil treatment The really thick stuff.

2 parts atf
1 part mobil 1 10w30
1 part STP oil treatment

Throw it in a bottle with a clean nut or bolt, this helps mix it together. Shake it for a good couple minutes. The above recipe is a little thin, but I usually add STP at my discretion after to thicken it up. Works awesome, yes it stinks slightly but I am very used to it now.

Highly recommended.
 
I have used Mobil 1 on plastic, stainless, blued, and parkerized weapons for a decade, or more. Can't ask for anything more.
Mobil spent how many millions developing Mobil 1? How much did the others spend?
 
Why, in light of all of the years that I ran Mobile 1 in my hypered-up Mustang 5.0, did I never think to use that same on my firearms...especially the hot-running firearms?! Sometimes the answers are so close we can't see them.
 
that's a lot of data....
is Mobil 1 the best overall oil then for firearms? How about other brands? I've got a whole bunch of leftover single quarts of oil for some reason wondering if those would work.

I agree on the 'it's too thin' alone. Could a fella use plain old chassis grease for his 1911 if he wanted to?
 
Honestly follow my recipe, its goods stuff. Chasis grease or axel grease might be fine at first, any oil is, but its how well it stands up to use is what counts. After the firearm starts to get hot I bet axel grease will run right off and then you have nothing.

You need something thats

1) Of the right viscosity
2) Stands up to temperature
3) Sticks to metal regardless of temperature

THe third one is the key.
 
I started using Mobil1 about 5 years ago on all my guns. I'll let you know in 30 years or so how it's worked out.
 
brentn,

Interesting formula you have there. The STP oil treatment adds (Zinc Dialkyldithiophospate), a compound that should help with the lubricity of your formula. As for the thickness of your proposed formula; if formulated as described, it should result in a mixture that has a V/100 of approximately 95-105 cSt, a viscosity that could easily be matched by 5W40 and 5W50 or exceeded by 20W50 and 75W140. This brings me to the point of what lubricant I prefer to use from the listed Mobil 1 lubricants.

I prefer the 20W50 simply because it is the lubricant possessing the highest Flash Point (+518 F), the lowest Pour Point (-59.8 F) and has a V/100 of 130 cSt. It is quite thick, almost to the point of being "greaselike" in its consistency yet having an extraordinarily broad operating range of more than 577 F. It has excellent cohesive properties throughout its operating range due to esters already present within its composition, a PAO (Poly-Alpha Olefin) basestock and already possesses oxidation inhibitors and thermal stabilization additives that are found in supplemental treatments like STP Oil Treatment.

During a police training course a few years ago (mid-2002), I put ~4000 rounds of high pressure (+P+) 9mm ammunition through my Glock 17 lubricated only with Mobil 1 20W50 during a 10 day (2 weeks) training assignment without maintaining the weapon in any manner, including relubrication. I had no malfunctions whatsoever and at the end of the assignment, I still had a well-lubricated Glock 17, albeit a pretty filthy one at that. The Mobil 1 was still there doing it's thing and I am confident that I could have fired another 1000 rounds through it with no problems.

By way of a different path (your formula above) you can certainly get there or pretty darned close, but that has got to be a rather messy, inconvenient task mixing that stuff up like that, not to mention the added expense and hassle of acquiring all of the requisite ingredients. By the way, please keep in mind that ATF will attack and decompose some polymers and plastics commonly used in firearms manufacture. It would be advisable to test it out on any material in question before actually using it on that material.

1old311,

I agree. Ditto what you said.

I have been using it for almost that long too. My guns (Glock's and H&K's) show no signs of wear even after excessive, prolonged use.

Can't beat it.

Doc2005,

So close that I couldn't see it.

That's kind of how I was introduced to it, too. I have a family member who possesses a Ph. D. in Petro Chemical Engineering and has been employed in that field for the last three decades who also happens to be an avid firearms enthusiast. He's used it for as long as I can remember and explained its benefits and properties to me in rather technical terms that were well over my head. After having him explain it to me (again) in terms that an average human being could understand it seemed like an excellent option. I chose it and have never looked back.


kellyj00,

Sorry if it is overwhelming. Upon looking at it, there is a lot to digest isn't there?

Didn't look into other manufacturers as I didn't have the time to do so, but had I done so, can you imagine how much more overwhelming the list would've become? Yikes. :what:

Axle or chassis grease tends to be a bit messy as it tends to accumulate at the rear end of the slide during reciprocation (going back and forth) if there is even a slight overage of application and can make a mess of shirts if used on a concealed carry firearm. It will also tend to significantly retard slide movement at lower temperatures due to the thickening properties of the lithium soap complex that is used to increase its viscosity possibly resulting in reliability issues. With these caveats, it is an acceptable choice for extended usage in warmer/hot climates where better viscosity retention is mandated, but I would really encourage the use of a higher viscosity oil instead due to the ability to apply it in a moderate enough manner to ensure that it does not find its way onto your clothing or somewhere else that it should not be.


Walkalong,

Yep! :D


enfield,

Thirty years? Hmmm.......

I patiently await your results.

What other choice do I have? :eek:



All the best, guys,

G/S
 
Last edited:
DBR,

Thanks for the link.

Looks like the 10W30 Synthetic Racing Oil nearly mirrors the the Mobil 20W50 in its characteristics. Flash and Pour Points are duplicated but the V/100 & 212 are a little lower.

What really caught my eye though was the 15W50 as it is closer to the 20W50 and the 20W60 is an interesting multi-grade that I have not yet seen before.

The 70W with a V/100 of 318 cSt is almost certainly a grease at that temperature.

So, now I am gonna be up all night losin' sleep:cuss: looking at this stuff 'cause it is pretty interesting.:evil: Thanks a lot, DBR! :rolleyes: :D

With best regards,

G/S
:)
 
3 other high end synthetics are Amsoil, Motul, and Royal Purple if anyone wants to play with them. :)

Ive been running Mobil 1 Synth Extended Performance 10W-30 in my built motor twin turboed 350Z. She put down a modest 437 rwhp and 478 rwtq. I have 69k miles on the chassis and 36k miles on the built motor. Still going strong in the summer Houston heat.
 
Gunslinger

I would have gone for the 20weight but it was not available in mobil 1 at the stores in my area. I suppose if I had used it I probably wouldn't have to add additional STP.

Point being, YES, ATF does hurt plastics sometimes. More specifically rubber, it will harden and shrink it. I don't think it harms plastics, but I know that it does change rubber, making it hard and brittle.
I forgot to mention that.

I use it in all my guns, as none of them contain any polymers. Would I use it in a glock? I don't know.
 
Gun Slinger:

Three additional points:

1) The Redline Racing oil has a very good formulation of EP additives.

2) Redline is an ester based oil which I have been told has a higher affinity for metals than Mobile 1 type and the base stock is not blended - you get what you pay for.

3) There is an additive that is used mostly in small aircraft called "ASL Cam Guard". It is designed for engines (guns) that sit around a lot between uses and adds corrosion protection and adhesion to the oil. I use 10% ASL with 15W50 Redline.

This recommendation came from the chemist who designed the Redline additives package and the ASL Cam Guard formulation. According to him he was a retired Exxon chemist.

http://www.aslcamguard.com/

This combo maintains a very good film thickness on parts but can seep through very small openings like around the pins in a 1911. It also can be wiped almost dry and still leave adequate lube on the surface - like on an AR15. It does not produce carbon from combustion. It seems to just disappear while leaving a lubricating film.
 
DBR,

Actually, Mobil 1 and Redline are both composed of synthesized PAO's and the nomenclature that the two companies use are just different ways of refering to PAO's (polyalphaolefins [PAO] and polyol esters[PE]) both of which are esters formed from alkenes (also called alpha-olefins) which are compounds (possessing a double bonded carbon to carbon and no other functional group within the molecule) that are polymerized in order to form PAO's. The alkenes that are polymerized for use as lubricant basestocks are most commonly low molecular weight alkenes such as ethene and hexene.

Esters are simply a general class of chemical compounds and functional groups and are not indicative of lubricants only in that they also exist as flavor/scents, types of cleaning agents, plastics and plasticizers, personal care products like hand moisturizers etc, etc, etc.

The PAO's (PE, PAO, poly-ol esters, polyalpha olefins, what have you) that compose Mobil1 and Redline and Amsoil and any other brand names that I have missed are all the same thing as they all possess the same naturally high affinity for metal surfaces and tend to exhibit multigrade viscosity characteristics and do not require the addition of modifying agents to obtain these properties which is why they are so widely used in the lubricant industry.

By adding STP Oil Treatment, ASL Camguard or any other additive package to your PAO synthetic oil you are just adding more of what you are replacing; the very same esters. Other than possibly getting another anti-corrosion agent or oxidation inhibitor with the addition of such an additive you are gaining very little, or in some cases, nothing at all other than the added expense and inconvenience of mixing the products. The individuals and corporations that are advertize otherwise are simply selling you a "bill of goods" and maybe a different anti-oxidation or thermal stabilization agent that does exactly the same thing as those additives/agents that are already present in high quality synthetics made by Mobil 1, Redline, Amsoil, Pennzoil, Valvoline, Castrol, and any other brandname that I may have omitted.



Guys,
Do yourselves a favor and stop wasting your money on these useless "additives" that promise some (marginal) increase in performance at best and save your money for better things like ammunition or another gun. I did.

Of course, you may choose to do otherwise. It's your money. :)


All the best to you,

G/S
 
brentn,

ATF probably won't hurt a Glock. The polymer used in the Glock is a chemically stable, modified form of Nylon 6 that is highly regarded in the polymer industry. It should be OK to do so, but if you are really hesitant you could always test it out for compatibility on a small, inconspicous portion of the Glock frame or err on the side of caution and just not use it at all.



G/S
 
Gun Slinger thanks for the additional info.

I did some informal 5% salt spray tests using bead blasted and decreased mild steel bar stock. The Redline with the ASL appeared to have marginally better corrosion resistance than Redline alone. None of the synthetics I tested, Eexoz, Redline, Mobil1, CorrosionX, Miltec, FP10, CLP and a few others that don't come to mind right now, came close to Eezox. I think the Redline is a better lubricant than Eezox.
 
Interesting, so basically mobil 1 by itself is just fine.

If I could find a heavy weight for it, I would just use it by itself, but for the time being its not available. I don't mind spending the extra 5$ on the STP to thicken it up. Besides, when I make the stuff, the bottle lasts forever
 
DBR,

You are quite welcome.

I'd be inclined to agree with you. The Redline is probably a better lubricant than the Eezox because the Eezox is most likely a combination of various components that offer both lubricant and protectant qualities. When a product attempts to "multi-task" by combining different ingredients there is always a compromise in its ability to perform each of its specific tasks versus a "single purpose" product that can do what it does the best.


brentn,

Quote: "Interesting, so basically mobil 1 by itself is just fine."


In a word, "Yes."



I am sorry to hear that you cannot locate heavier weight oils in your area. I have the same problem at times also and usually order over the 'net when things run short or hard to find. I do not know your situation, but hopefully you can avail yourself of "internet mail-order".

G/S
 
Why do I get the feeling that Gun Slinger works for Mobil? If he does, that does not mean he is wrong, or that Mobil 1 is not a good gun lubricant (it is), but the massive amount of data has the feel of a sales pitch. Not much point, though; the amount of oil all my guns will need in my lifetime won't amount to a single oil change on a truck engine.

Jim
 
I use 10W30 mobil 1 synthetic, mixed with dexron III ATF and some STP oil treatment The really thick stuff.
2 parts atf
1 part mobil 1 10w30
1 part STP oil treatment
Click to expand...

A number of Bullseye shooters use a similar mix that was reputedly the Marine shooting team mix sometime back ('60s?).

1.5 qt 10W30
1 qt ATF
1 qt Marvel Mystery Oil
.5 qt STP - vary this proportion for different ambient conditions

One batch is a gallon, good for a lifetime, doesn't settle out even after prolonged storage.
/Bryan
 
Jim,

I am not , nor have I ever been affliated with or employed by, or for, Mobil. You are free to check my public profile as it relates to your post. It is accurate, current and up to date.

As for the quantity of the information presented having the "feel of a sales pitch", that's quite a leap of logic to be made and I cannot, for the life of me, figure where you came up with that. I simply offered the information that I had accrued and made no other representations that could even remotely be construed as a "sales pitch". I have nothing to gain by doing so and thought that perhaps others would enjoy having the data available for themselves.

The data offered was simply intended for anyone's use; take it or leave it. A gift, if you will.

It is indeed very sad commentary on the state of today's society that when well-organized, thoughtfully prepared information is freely offered with no other intent other than sharing it and helping others out, that there are those whom feel it necessary to attempt to arouse unnecsessary suspicion by declaring the subject matter presented suspiciously cogent, when in fact, it is not.



G/S
 
I use Mobil 1 gear oil on my guns...mainly because I had half a quart lying around, but it's also thicker and more sticky right out of the bottle.
 
Gun Slinger:

My lingering question is: are the superior lubricating qualities of Redline enough more important than the established fact that in my own AR15 rifles a good coating of Eezox is still present and wet on the bolt head and gas system after 100-200 rds and does not carbonize and cleans off with a Bounty paper towel? Plus the Eezox corrosion protection? Lots of condensation from inside to outside here in Vermont in the Winter!

I haven't tested the Eezox or the Redline yet with a "wipe off" film but will soon.

I like the Redline for 1911, revolver and shotgun internals. I think the Eezox was made for Glocks except for the drop of Redline put on the disconnecter.

Your thoughts?
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

H
  • Locked
Here's the New MD AWB
2 3 4 5
Replies
102
Views
3K
Slimjim
S
Back
Top