New reloader Dillon 750xl issues and advice

[RejectActual]

New to reloading and I’m having issues with my dillon 750 xl reloading 9mm one thing after a another lately. Began reloading and had some success in the beginning until I decided to get a Mr. Bulletfeeder and it’s been downhill ever since. So originally had my stations set up as 3 powder check 4 MBF and 5 DAA seat/crimp die once I did that I was having a really hard time getting cases to pass my case gauge. So I ditched the powder check and went 3 bullet feeder 4 Dillon seating die 5 Dillon crimp die and put he original Dillon powder funnel in (that was a mistake) I noticed the wasp look to my cases and did not like the way that looked so I read up on it and swapped the Dillon crimp do he lee FCD and had a lot more success with passing my case gauge. After this I went to the range and had a couple squibs inspected my powder system and the powder bar was not operating correctly and was throwing very inconsistent loads very frustrating. So I reset the system back to 3 powder check 4 MBF and 5 DAA seat/crimp once again having very inconsistent case gauges one magtech case was so bad it got stuck in my G17 once I got it out I returned my 750 back to the Lee FCD on 5 and he Dillon seat die on 4 and ditched my MBF. I ran said case through the FCD and it actually passed my case gauge very impressed.

I would ultimately like to continue using my MBF but can’t seem to find a solution and help or advice would be greatly appreciated. Not exactly sure where I’m going wrong I’ve played with all the station and can’t get much consistency. I am loading mixed range brass but it’s all reputable stuff from what I’ve researched so no sure what’s going on.

 

[9mmepiphany]

I suspect that when you were using the DAA Seat/Crimp die that you didn't have it correctly set up...crimping while the bullet was still being seated. The first thing to check is to see if you are sizing your cases properly. Start by running your sized cases into your case gauge to see if they pass. If they do, they you know it is an issue with seating/crimping.

When you took out your powder check, were you looking into each case to insure that there was powder?

I helped a buddy get his Dillon 750 running a while back and we ran into similar issues.
What worked for him was replacing the powder measure with one from Mark7 and discarding the Dillon dies completely.
To avoid the "wasp waist" look, he went to a Sizing die from Mighty Armory. He used the expander from the Mr Bullet Feeder, the Seating die from Redding and a a separate Crimp die from Redding. He just made sure to look into every case to make sure powder had dropped. If you're seating the bullets straight and crimping correctly, you shouldn't need a FCD

 

[lordpaxman]

Progressives are nice but not foolproof. I just ran 600 9mm for the local matches and need to do another 1K for the Nats and areas coming up. There were several stoppages from various issues. I load range brass that’s been wet tumbled without being deprimed.
I can almost see the value of running the cases through two times, there are a lot of progressive people who do that.
Given the description of your issues, it would seem that changing to the DAA seat and crimp die was really the problem. It’s not necessarily the die, it could be just setup incorrectly. Given you run range brass, it has a variety of thicknesses and case lengths. If you don’t setup for the longest case, there can be buckling and distorted cases since it’ll crimp before seating is complete. That’s where the separate seat and crimp steps really help.
You should get in the habit of looking in each case before bullet seat to visually verify powder. I’ve not had any problems with the dillon measure given the shuttle runs its entire length. And I do run a dillon powder check as well.
I run all the finished rounds through a Shockbottle case gauge.
If you were cranking out decent rounds with your original setup, I’d advise against the FCD as it can cause other problems like swaging bullets which leads to accuracy and perhaps setback issues.
The 750/650 is a very popular press, it will produce decent ammo.

 

[jmorris]

I really like to keep seating and crimping in two steps because each can be adjusted independently of the other. That said, I do combine them when I have to, just takes longer to set up.

..a lot more success with passing my case gauge….one magtech case was so bad it got stuck in my G17

A case passed a case gauge and got stuck in the firearm?

…and had a lot more success with passing my case gauge. After this I went to the range and had a couple squibs inspected my powder system and the powder bar was not operating correctly…

Curious to what the problem was there?

The fail safe rod has to pull it back if making a full stroke and I don’t see how you could expand a case and not activate the measure unless parts were missing.

Every time I begin to get frustrated, I generally try and cool down and regroup. A pile of problems are generally best attacked one at a time and in order.

Do you have any photos of the “fails”? Might help us see what you are seeing.

 

[RejectActual]

I suspect that when you were using the DAA Seat/Crimp die that you didn't have it correctly set up...crimping while the bullet was still being seated. The first thing to check is to see if you are sizing your cases properly. Start by running your sized cases into your case gauge to see if they pass. If they do, they you know it is an issue with seating/crimping.

When you took out your powder check, were you looking into each case to insure that there was powder?

I helped a buddy get his Dillon 750 running a while back and we ran into similar issues.
What worked for him was replacing the powder measure with one from Mark7 and discarding the Dillon dies completely.
To avoid the "wasp waist" look, he went to a Sizing die from Mighty Armory. He used the expander from the Mr Bullet Feeder, the Seating die from Redding and a a separate Crimp die from Redding. He just made sure to look into every case to make sure powder had dropped. If you're seating the bullets straight and crimping correctly, you shouldn't need a FCD

I suspect that when you were using the DAA Seat/Crimp die that you didn't have it correctly set up...crimping while the bullet was still being seated. The first thing to check is to see if you are sizing your cases properly. Start by running your sized cases into your case gauge to see if they pass. If they do, they you know it is an issue with seating/crimping.

When you took out your powder check, were you looking into each case to insure that there was powder?

I helped a buddy get his Dillon 750 running a while back and we ran into similar issues.
What worked for him was replacing the powder measure with one from Mark7 and discarding the Dillon dies completely.
To avoid the "wasp waist" look, he went to a Sizing die from Mighty Armory. He used the expander from the Mr Bullet Feeder, the Seating die from Redding and a a separate Crimp die from Redding. He just made sure to look into every case to make sure powder had dropped. If you're seating the bullets straight and crimping correctly, you shouldn't need a FCD

ill give that sizing die a shot and go from there and Mark 7 just sells the powder bar itself I can’t seem to find that online. Also what is the benefit of the Redding dies?? just out of curiousity thanks for the advice!

 

[RejectActual]

I really like to keep seating and crimping in two steps because each can be adjusted independently of the other. That said, I do combine them when I have to, just takes longer to set up.



A case passed a case gauge and got stuck in the firearm?



Curious to what the problem was there?

The fail safe rod has to pull it back if making a full stroke and I don’t see how you could expand a case and not activate the measure unless parts were missing.

Every time I begin to get frustrated, I generally try and cool down and regroup. A pile of problems are generally best attacked one at a time and in order.

Do you have any photos of the “fails”? Might help us see what you are seeing.

I guess I just haven’t played around with the seat/crimp die enough to dial it in might play around with it later any tips on that or is it just burning up a bunch of components until you get it right? And no it failed the case gauge but I read that they have tighter tolerances than a chamber so I decided to jack one in and that was a mistake it was stuck in there pretty good. That’s a good idea to take pictures of my problems I’ve read alot on this forum but never posted a question this forum is very helpful so far.

 

[9mmepiphany]

Mark 7 just sells the powder bar itself I can’t seem to find that online.

I don’t think you’re looking at the right item

Also what is the benefit of the Redding dies?? just out of curiousity thanks for the advice!

The Redding Competition Seating die holds the case and bullet in alignment as the floating ram, which contacts the bullet at its ogive, seats the bullet. It prevents bullets, which aren’t started straight, from causing a bulge on one side of the casing

 

[lordpaxman]

My .02$, you’re welcome to buy any and all the suggested add ons, but your current dies will work just fine.
I’m not sure if your MBF came with a PTX replacement for the Dillon, it’s an M style expander so the case has a shelf for the bullet to sit in. You didn’t say what type of bullet you’re loading, but my 147s usually produce a wasp waist but that isn’t usually a problem.
When you seat and crimp in one step, you need to set the crimp with the longest case in your mixed range assortment. If you set if for something shorter, a longer case will crimp before the bullet seating is complete, and something will deform.

 

[JimGnitecki]

I really like to keep seating and crimping in two steps because each can be adjusted independently of the other. That said, I do combine them when I have to, just takes longer to set up.



A case passed a case gauge and got stuck in the firearm?



Curious to what the problem was there?

The fail safe rod has to pull it back if making a full stroke and I don’t see how you could expand a case and not activate the measure unless parts were missing.

Every time I begin to get frustrated, I generally try and cool down and regroup. A pile of problems are generally best attacked one at a time and in order.

Do you have any photos of the “fails”? Might help us see what you are seeing.

jmorris: I can explain how the powder bar movement can be corrupted: One the second XL750 I recently purchased, I was having rpoblems wiht inconsistent return of the powder bar to the corretc initial position. In diagnosing the problem, I compared the bent rod on the new XL750 to the other XL750 that has been running for a couple of years, literally reight beside where the new XL750 sits. The 2 bent rods were different. The bent rod on the new XL750 did not have a "full 90 degree" bend where the other did. The new one was visually incompletely bent. Dillon immediately sent me a new bent rod. But the technican said I might be able to bend the one I already had a little further, and have a temporary solution while I waited for the new one. That DID work.

My 2nd XL750 also came with a second issue right from the factory: Once every 10 cases or so, it would fail to drop a case from the clear plastic tube into the machine. When I called Dillon, the technician told me that the screw that controls how far the "pivoting block" right belw the clear feed tube probbaly had been screwed in a bit too far at the factory. He was right. I backed that screw out one 360 degree turn, and the problem disappeared.

These XL750s have some subtle adjustment needs.

Jim G

 

[9mmepiphany]

your current dies will work just fine.

That works if “fine” is good enough for you

but my 147s usually produce a wasp waist but that isn’t usually a problem.

We all have our own level of what constitutes a problem. While a wasp waist case will usually plunk, many folks don’t like the look. If that is the case, replacing it with a die which addresses the issue is a simple solution

 

[EricBu]

New to reloading and I’m having issues with my dillon 750 xl reloading 9mm one thing after a another lately. Began reloading and had some success in the beginning until I decided to get a Mr. Bulletfeeder and it’s been downhill ever since. So originally had my stations set up as 3 powder check 4 MBF and 5 DAA seat/crimp die once I did that I was having a really hard time getting cases to pass my case gauge. So I ditched the powder check and went 3 bullet feeder 4 Dillon seating die 5 Dillon crimp die and put he original Dillon powder funnel in (that was a mistake) I noticed the wasp look to my cases and did not like the way that looked so I read up on it and swapped the Dillon crimp do he lee FCD and had a lot more success with passing my case gauge. After this I went to the range and had a couple squibs inspected my powder system and the powder bar was not operating correctly and was throwing very inconsistent loads very frustrating. So I reset the system back to 3 powder check 4 MBF and 5 DAA seat/crimp once again having very inconsistent case gauges one magtech case was so bad it got stuck in my G17 once I got it out I returned my 750 back to the Lee FCD on 5 and he Dillon seat die on 4 and ditched my MBF. I ran said case through the FCD and it actually passed my case gauge very impressed.

I would ultimately like to continue using my MBF but can’t seem to find a solution and help or advice would be greatly appreciated. Not exactly sure where I’m going wrong I’ve played with all the station and can’t get much consistency. I am loading mixed range brass but it’s all reputable stuff from what I’ve researched so no sure what’s going on.

With the 750, when running an MBF, there are a couple of challenges which you are experiencing;-) First, are you using the DAA powder bar? You need that, the stock dillon powder bar will hit and not cycle reliabily, the DAA bar is shorter and allows the clearance. As far as your DAA seat/crimp die, that's a set up issue. And I'll tell you, it's hard to dial that when using mixed brass. But go back through the setup process again, step by step. What's happening is that your die is already applying crimp before the bullet is seated, which can cause the brass to deform a bit, likely the reason it's not gauging. I have one 750 that has an autodrive, and that's the config I use, it can be frustrating to get it dialed in, but once you do, it will run just fine.

If funds allow though, if you are loading at the volume where a MBF comes into play, you may want to consider moving up to an RL1100 (which is still a station short IMHO), as it will work a lot better with the MBF. If you want an MBF, a powder check, and you want to seat and crimp in separate stations, then you need a 10 station progressive, like a Mark 7.

 

[9mmepiphany]

If you want an MBF, a powder check, and you want to seat and crimp in separate stations, then you need a 10 station progressive, like a Mark 7.

The Mark 7 Alpha is an excellent 10 station press at an affordable price.

If you're incline to a more affordable price point, the Frankfort FX-10 also offer 10 stations with a few extra features

 

[EricBu]

The Mark 7 Alpha is an excellent 10 station press at an affordable price.

If you're incline to a more affordable price point, the Frankfort FX-10 also offer 10 stations with a few extra features

I'm not sure what an Alpha is? Not seen that one. I've got Revo's, but they are overkill for most. The Apex is Mark 7's manual 10 station press, but it's ready for an autodrive out of the box if one wants to go that route, and for what it comes with, the price point isn't bad. They have some new stuff coming out, the Titan and the Genesys. I've got my eye on a Titan at some point, but not this year. The fit and finish and quality of Mark 7 presses is...amazing. I've been a blue press guy for 30 years, and it was hard for me to try something new, but damn Mark 7 stuff is high quality for sure and their customer service is top notch. I have no personal experience with the FX-10, but it looks interesting and the price point is right. The one challenge with Mark 7 (and the FX-10 will be the same) is that there isn't a wide selection of caliber conversions. Dillon is still the standing king in the number of supported calibers. Which is why I still have 2 750's, which I run the living piss out of.

 

[GW Staar]

The Mark 7 Alpha is an excellent 10 station press at an affordable price.

If you're incline to a more affordable price point, the Frankfort FX-10 also offer 10 stations with a few extra features

You mean a Mark 7 Apex 10? If I had endless coffers and was 10 years younger, I'd have one with a power drive! A Canadian friend of mine has one....and I have to say there's nothing else like it. No primer tubes either on his.....instead it has the neatest tray primer system I've ever seen (with Mark 7 markings).....looks full proof. Wow!

Video Link below:

<iframe src="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1aK6ZFYkkZxjdO4U9G4E28H6SapbKzB7a/preview" width="640" height="480" allow="autoplay"></iframe>

Question: Does anyone know what that "plunger" does in front that drops into the primer feed?

Now I like Dillon 750's just fine, but wow.....and from Lyman.....who woulda thought?

Anyone have a similar Dillon 750 Video with a motor-drive to compare?

 

[RejectActual]

With the 750, when running an MBF, there are a couple of challenges which you are experiencing;-) First, are you using the DAA powder bar? You need that, the stock dillon powder bar will hit and not cycle reliabily, the DAA bar is shorter and allows the clearance. As far as your DAA seat/crimp die, that's a set up issue. And I'll tell you, it's hard to dial that when using mixed brass. But go back through the setup process again, step by step. What's happening is that your die is already applying crimp before the bullet is seated, which can cause the brass to deform a bit, likely the reason it's not gauging. I have one 750 that has an autodrive, and that's the config I use, it can be frustrating to get it dialed in, but once you do, it will run just fine.

If funds allow though, if you are loading at the volume where a MBF comes into play, you may want to consider moving up to an RL1100 (which is still a station short IMHO), as it will work a lot better with the MBF. If you want an MBF, a powder check, and you want to seat and crimp in separate stations, then you need a 10 station progressive, like a Mark 7.

With the 750, when running an MBF, there are a couple of challenges which you are experiencing;-) First, are you using the DAA powder bar? You need that, the stock dillon powder bar will hit and not cycle reliabily, the DAA bar is shorter and allows the clearance. As far as your DAA seat/crimp die, that's a set up issue. And I'll tell you, it's hard to dial that when using mixed brass. But go back through the setup process again, step by step. What's happening is that your die is already applying crimp before the bullet is seated, which can cause the brass to deform a bit, likely the reason it's not gauging. I have one 750 that has an autodrive, and that's the config I use, it can be frustrating to get it dialed in, but once you do, it will run just fine.

If funds allow though, if you are loading at the volume where a MBF comes into play, you may want to consider moving up to an RL1100 (which is still a station short IMHO), as it will work a lot better with the MBF. If you want an MBF, a powder check, and you want to seat and crimp in separate stations, then you need a 10 station progressive, like a Mark 7.

yes on the DAA powder bar. I’ve thought about the 1100 as well and wish I would have but as being new to reloading I also think I just . Just out of curiosity why do you think it is one stage short? Really I just want to make alot of ammo in a timely fashion so I can go shoot a few hundred rounds every weekend so an auto drive does interest me alot down the road in your opinion does the 750 get the job done or would you recommend a different press for automation?

 

[9mmepiphany]

Yes, I was thinking Apex when I typed Alpha.

If I was looking at going automated, the Genesys is really aggressively priced.

Their quality is really high because they, the founders of the company (USPSA shooters), started out with the goal of addressing all of the issues with the Dillon 1050 that they were loading on…that’s the reason they based their powder measure on the Hornady/RCBS model

 

[jmorris]

Really I just want to make alot of ammo in a timely fashion so I can go shoot a few hundred rounds every weekend so an auto drive does interest me alot down the road in your opinion does the 750 get the job done or would you recommend a different press for automation?

It would not IMO, at least for actual loading. I have 650’s that have a much more reliable primer feed system than the 750, as well as tool heads that have bullet feeders, allow me to retain powder check and keep crimping on it’s own station. The main thing it lacks is the primer pocket swage and I think it’s important to eliminate any priming seating issues.



Its close to perfect but any snag, no matter how small stops you 100% and I never like stopping progressive operations as it opens the door for human error to enter.

I built my first automated press before there were any commercial offerings using a 1050 that has a swage station and it’s very reliable. 1000 rounds in 51 min 25 seconds is pretty repeatable.



The mark 7 machine they used the 650 style rotary primer feed would be on my list if I was looking for something else though. The 650 has the most reliable feed system (tube to under case) but the swage is still missing to get it in there.

I have set up 1050’s just to size/deprime and swage before too though.



Then the 650’s are hard to beat manual loading but automation remains more difficult as you have to be precise on both ends of the stroke. Down needs to be exact for sizing, flare, bullet seat and crimp and the up stroke has to be precise for primer seat depth.

On the 4 digit presses ALL operations happen on the down stroke (primer depth is set with an Allen wrench because there is no chance to FEEL it), the up stroke just has to engage the indexer and doesn’t require the same level of precision on that end of the stroke.

 

[JimGnitecki]

It would not IMO, at least for actual loading. I have 650’s that have a much more reliable primer feed system than the 750,
. . .

Jmorris, there is something wrong in your XL750 primer feed setup. Both my XL750s feed primers 100% reliably all the time.

Jim G

 

[EricBu]

yes on the DAA powder bar. I’ve thought about the 1100 as well and wish I would have but as being new to reloading I also think I just . Just out of curiosity why do you think it is one stage short? Really I just want to make alot of ammo in a timely fashion so I can go shoot a few hundred rounds every weekend so an auto drive does interest me alot down the road in your opinion does the 750 get the job done or would you recommend a different press for automation?

So, if you want to use a bullet feeder, case feeder, powder check, AND seat and crimp in two stations, you've got to move up to a 10 station press. That's just a limitation of the number of stations on Dillons. If you want to automate a dillon, whether 750, 1100, or Super 1050...you have to give up one of the above. Which is fine, people have been seating and crimping in a single step for a hundred years...it just means more tweaking and set up, and IMHO, ammo quality is dramatically improved with doing it in 2 steps...but that's just me. Personally, if you give up the powder check I think you're freakin' insane, that' s also just me. Your set up will work, it will just take more effort and tinkering on your part to get there. The 750 was never meant to run a MBF, nor an autodrive. Will it? Of course, again, it will require more effort on your part. I mean, I have one with an autodrive on it, I wouldn't have spent that money if I didn't see value there...and I also have two Revolutions, the 750 covers the gaps in calibers that the Revo's can't do (like 45-70, .30-06, 32 family of pistols, etc).

So your set up WILL work, and WILL produce quality ammo...you just need to step back and get that seat/crimp die set up, and figure out why your powder throw is off. If you're using the DAA short bar, and you are 100% that there is no contact between the bar and the MBF, then look to your fail safe rod..maybe it's bent or not set right. If it was working BEFORE the MBF, and not now, then addressed what changed. I see also you have primer problems, that tells me that your primer assembly isn't adjusted right either. I think you need to get dillon on the horn and have them walk you through all your issues. In my opinion, you have at least 2 major press setup issues (powder and prime), and the seat/crimp die issue. You need to address each of these and fix before you can expect to make quality ammo.

Also, if you don't have a auto drive on it now, then both Dillon support and DAA support will happily work with you to get your set up going. The dillon guys will walk you through all your configs and figure out what's happening. The DAA guys have seen it all as well, and they are quite helpful. Once you put an auto drive on it, dillon won't give you the time of day, but DAA will still help you.

 

[MikeInOr]

I have been reloading 9mm on my 650XL for a few decades now. I have often considered a Mr Bullet Feeder but haven't taken the plunge.

The setup that I have settled on that works very well for me is:
Station 1: RCBS .223 Lube / decapping die.
Station 2: Case sizing die
Station 3: Powder measure
Station 4: Powder check - I use it because I have it but would feel perfectly comfortable without it (like my other eight reloading heads)
Station 5: Lee collet crimp die

The .223 RCBS lube die was absolutely worthless for it intended purpose, 223 cases, because it does not lube the necks of the cases. On a whim I decided to try it on my 9mm head and it works perfectly. The lubed 9mm cases fly through the press and my case feeder doesn't get gummed up with lube.

I have a half dozen of the original Dillon powder measures and they have all worked perfectly for me throwing very consistent charges with some powders being a bit more consistent than others. In 35 years of reloading on my 650XL I have never had a squib. I do have one of the newer style powder measures and really hate it because it is a pain in the rear to dial in weights on it when setting up the head. Once setup it has also been consistent and very reliable. If you have never used the original powder measures stay away from them. The new design is better and when you develop a comfort level with them they are great to work with. My comfort level is with the original design and I always get frustrated why doesn't it work like all my other powder measures measures when dialing in charge weights. In use the new measure should be more consistent.

It sounds like you don't have the powder measure setup and adjusted properly if you are getting widely varying charges and squibs.

I haven't put a reloaded 9mm round through a case gauge in 20 years. My reloads work in all my 9mm guns and that is all I worry about. I do have different loads for different purposes. I have a light load for my C&R pistols, FMJ loads for practice and plinking and Gold Dot loads for carry. I adjust the powder charges when switching between load types.

Mixed brass has never caused a problem for me.

Adjust one station at a time and make one adjustment at a time. Once you and the press understand each other you will get it dialed in and you will get it working properly with the Mr Bullet feeder. Just like riding a bicycle or learning to ski, it takes some experience to get the feel down but once you do every thing falls into place and runs smoothly.

P.S. After 35 years I can feel a difference in the way my 650XL runs from when it is cold outside to when it is warm outside (winter vs summer) in my uncooled reloading room. This feel for the machine didn't happen overnight, it developed over many many hours of use. You might want to get some reloading time without the Mr Bullet feeder then come back to it when you feel the time is right.

 

[Jim Watson]

The setup that I have settled on that works very well for me is:
Station 1: RCBS .223 Lube / decapping die.
Station 2: Case sizing die
Station 3: Powder measure
Station 4: Powder check
Station 5: Lee collet crimp die

Bullet seating off the progressive?

 

[MikeInOr]

Bullet seating off the progressive?

Honestly, I will have to go out and look. I must have a seating crimp die in this head. My other heads without the powder check I have separate seating and crimp dies... because I really love the Lee collet crimp dies. It has been a couple of decades since I have made any significant changes to my 9mm head.

 

[NC9mm]

I helped a buddy get his Dillon 750 running a while back and we ran into similar issues.
What worked for him was replacing the powder measure with one from Mark7 /QUOTE]

Why would you do this and what did it accomplish?

 

[EricBu]

The Mark 7 is a rotary drum type, uses less real estate on the tool head, and doesn't care which way it faces, so it solves the MBF clearance issues. Both the manual and digital M7 measures are good kit, the con is they are expensive. You can take the fail safe rod off the Dillon and use a ranger band or springs instead, and move it around to solve the clearance issues, or get the DAA short powder bar.

 

[EricBu]

I have been reloading 9mm on my 650XL for a few decades now. I have often considered a Mr Bullet Feeder but haven't taken the plunge.

The setup that I have settled on that works very well for me is:
Station 1: RCBS .223 Lube / decapping die.
Station 2: Case sizing die
Station 3: Powder measure
Station 4: Powder check - I use it because I have it but would feel perfectly comfortable without it (like my other eight reloading heads)
Station 5: Lee collet crimp die

The .223 RCBS lube die was absolutely worthless for it intended purpose, 223 cases, because it does not lube the necks of the cases. On a whim I decided to try it on my 9mm head and it works perfectly. The lubed 9mm cases fly through the press and my case feeder doesn't get gummed up with lube.

I have a half dozen of the original Dillon powder measures and they have all worked perfectly for me throwing very consistent charges with some powders being a bit more consistent than others. In 35 years of reloading on my 650XL I have never had a squib. I do have one of the newer style powder measures and really hate it because it is a pain in the rear to dial in weights on it when setting up the head. Once setup it has also been consistent and very reliable. If you have never used the original powder measures stay away from them. The new design is better and when you develop a comfort level with them they are great to work with. My comfort level is with the original design and I always get frustrated why doesn't it work like all my other powder measures measures when dialing in charge weights. In use the new measure should be more consistent.

It sounds like you don't have the powder measure setup and adjusted properly if you are getting widely varying charges and squibs.

I haven't put a reloaded 9mm round through a case gauge in 20 years. My reloads work in all my 9mm guns and that is all I worry about. I do have different loads for different purposes. I have a light load for my C&R pistols, FMJ loads for practice and plinking and Gold Dot loads for carry. I adjust the powder charges when switching between load types.

Mixed brass has never caused a problem for me.

Adjust one station at a time and make one adjustment at a time. Once you and the press understand each other you will get it dialed in and you will get it working properly with the Mr Bullet feeder. Just like riding a bicycle or learning to ski, it takes some experience to get the feel down but once you do every thing falls into place and runs smoothly.

P.S. After 35 years I can feel a difference in the way my 650XL runs from when it is cold outside to when it is warm outside (winter vs summer) in my uncooled reloading room. This feel for the machine didn't happen overnight, it developed over many many hours of use. You might want to get some reloading time without the Mr Bullet feeder then come back to it when you feel the time is right.

FYI, the 750 is a different beast when it comes to a MBF. There's a reason DAA addresses it specifically.