Putting a little more power in a $15.00 Daisy

[cobalt327]

Mark,
Yes, it would have been easy for them, not so much for us…
How did you drill the original sight ?
I tried it and couldn’t get the bit to cut (these sights appear to be made of spring steel, even on the ones I’ve removed to install peeps the spot welds were tough to file !)
I went a different route, I “Dremmeled”slots on either side with a .150” web in the center, then made a sight blade out of thin angle that hooks over the top, d&t for two 4-40 screws…not a lot of range, but hopefully enough.

Your setup sounds good to me. I had a donor sight on hand so that was the main reason for using the one I did. Well, that, and I am lazy! haha

Anyway, after grinding off the original sight's notch, I used a spring-loaded center punch to locate the hole. It can be seen in the photo, middle right side.Then just a matter of cutting the 4-40 threads for the screw. For what it's worth, I didn't get the impression the sight was spring steel- but I could be wrong...

 

[teerex.otw]

Your setup sounds good to me. I had a donor sight on hand so that was the main reason for using the one I did. Well, that, and I am lazy! haha

Anyway, after grinding off the original sight's notch, I used a spring-loaded center punch to locate the hole. It can be seen in the photo, middle right side.Then just a matter of cutting the 4-40 threads for the screw. For what it's worth, I didn't get the impression the sight was spring steel- but I could be wrong...

View attachment 1146048

This stuff is definitely harder than the rest of the gun, it’s difficult to even bend it (especially on the Chinese Ryders). If I could get a hole thru it, don’t even want to think about how many 4-40 taps I would break !
I dug a roached-out U.S./pre-beartrap carcass out of the pile, and the sight, while still springy, could at least be cut by a file. Maybe that’s worth a try…
I checked out the sight on my 880, and it appears to be the same basic sight as the RR, only with the adj. blade (?)
The 880 is clearly geared toward the more mature user, I guess Daisy didn’t think anyone would take the youth models seriously enough to make it worth the effort.
Well…
Some of us shoot ‘em a lot,
It’s worth it,
I wonder if Daisy has the blades available,
And I wish they would AT VERY LEAST put the 880 sight on the Adult RR !

jmho
r

 

[cobalt327]

The blade is available but it comes with a front sight for a pellet gun. Part number is 169367-K00.

 

[teerex.otw]

Cool !
Thanks !

 

[VMC]

I put a Daisy DA125SR1A adjustable sight for a model 25 on my adult size with a homemade stock Buck with E6000 Black glue as it was too hard to drill. It holds fast now over a year and can be removed with no damage but takes some effort. It has a 499 shot tube grafted into the Buck abutment as a repeater. The tube extends past the front, so I made an extension from black Delrin to protect it. It shoots one-hole targets at BB gun range with this shot tube. With Cobalt's spring & air tube it chronys at 368fps. I got the ideas thanks to this thread. Now I have to try this scope mounting idea as the 499 shot tube is accurate enough to be worthwhile.

 

[teerex.otw]

I put a Daisy DA125SR1A adjustable sight for a model 25 on my adult size with a homemade stock Buck with E6000 Black glue as it was too hard to drill. It holds fast now over a year and can be removed with no damage but takes some effort. It has a 499 shot tube grafted into the Buck abutment as a repeater. The tube extends past the front, so I made an extension from black Delrin to protect it. It shoots one-hole targets at BB gun range with this shot tube. With Cobalt's spring & air tube it chronys at 368fps. I got the ideas thanks to this thread. Now I have to try this scope mounting idea as the 499 shot tube is accurate enough to be worthwhile. View attachment 1146226

Very cool !
What kind of scope mount are you going to use ?
What difficulties did you encounter with the shot tube graft ?
Also, any chance of getting a close-up shot of the rear sight and attachment details ?
Rex

 

[VMC]

These are two sights, model 25 sight and T/C adjustable sight,I mounted with E6000 Black Glue on my Modified Bucks. The surfaces need to be cleaned of any oil with alcohol or degreaser before gluing. That glue is very tuff but can be eventually twisted off if you work at it. Going to see what mounts they have at Cabella's for the scope that can be mounted with drilled and tapped screws. Shot tube was pretty easy to graft in once the clamshell abutment is separated and it was rejoined with machine screws instead of the flared rivets. Hardest thing was to remove threads at the breech end of the 499 tube. I don't have a lathe so did it with a drill press and file. You have to drill matching hole in the 499 tube to match the one in the original tube for the mount stud. Also pictured are the separated clamshell and shot tube beside the 499 tube and the assembled graft job.

 

[cobalt327]

Very nicely done, VeeCee!

Is that a fabricated spring anchor?

 

[VMC]

Very nicely done, VeeCee! Is that a fabricated spring anchor on the bottom gun?

View attachment 1146265

It's the old Buck sight ground down out of the way. The guns shoot high, so I really did not need any elevation. Had to raise the front sight with a fiber optic and JB Weld to lower point of impact.

 

[VMC]

I think this AK compact scope should look good on this small gun if I can get a mount placed at that location on the action.

 

[cobalt327]

Did you make a slot in the receiver to capture the bottom of the elevation screw?

 

[teerex.otw]

These are two sights, model 25 sight and T/C adjustable sight,I mounted with E6000 Black Glue on my Modified Bucks. The surfaces need to be cleaned of any oil with alcohol or degreaser before gluing. That glue is very tuff but can be eventually twisted off if you work at it. Going to see what mounts they have at Cabella's for the scope that can be mounted with drilled and tapped screws. Shot tube was pretty easy to graft in once the clamshell abutment is separated and it was rejoined with machine screws instead of the flared rivets. Hardest thing was to remove threads at the breech end of the 499 tube. I don't have a lathe so did it with a drill press and file. You have to drill matching holes in the 499-tube breech end for the exhaust port and mount stud. Also pictured are the separated clamshell and shot tube beside the 499 tube and the assembled graft job. View attachment 1146246 View attachment 1146247 View attachment 1146248

Thanks for that !
I frequently use E-6000, but was unaware they made it in black, ‘gonna have to find some (probably online).
I also hadn’t thought of using a Contender sight (probably have 2 or 3 laying around here somewhere).
I was wondering about the threads on the 499 tube, but it looks like it works fine (I don’t have a lathe either, have had to use the “poor man’s lathe” on many occasions).
One of my “projects-in-waiting” is an extended Ryder with a Crosman 760 barrel… my 760’s will shoot the centers out of the groups I can do with any of my springers. Guessing that extra barrel length and longer sight radius might help.
I gave up on using machine screws to hold abutment halves together, I just drill a .055” hole in the crease behind the rivet and secure with “u” shaped pieces of electric fence wire…pics aren’t too clear because of the epoxy, but maybe you can see what I mean.
I’ve done several this way and have never had one work loose or come apart.
For scope mounting, looking at straying off the reservation and making a longer version of pictured peep sight mount and attaching a base to it.
I want to try this because it isn’t plastic, it’s very stable, and requires no modification except longer screws for stock and trigger.

 

[VMC]

Did you make a slot in the receiver to capture the bottom of the elevation screw?

View attachment 1146276

No I just used a shorter set screw. I did not need much height adjustment at all with the power it has now it shot higher than stock.

 

[teerex.otw]

I think this AK compact scope should look good on this small gun if I can get a mount placed at that location on the action. View attachment 1146270

Did you make that stock ?

 

[VMC]

Did you make that stock ?

I made it from some premium craft wood from Lowes. It's two pieces laminated together and band sawed from a pattern I made from a Red Ryder stock. I just made it longer a few inches for adult size and used a Red Ryder metal cocking handle which works better with the stronger spring.

 

[teerex.otw]

I made it from some premium craft wood from Lowes. It's two pieces laminated together and band sawed from a pattern I made from a Red Ryder stock. I just made it longer a few inches for adult size and used a Red Ryder cocking handle.

It turned out really nice, attractive color too !
Is that Poplar, or does your Lowe’s have something that ours doesn’t ?

 

[VMC]

Thanks for that !
I frequently use E-6000, but was unaware they made it in black, ‘gonna have to find some (probably online).
I also hadn’t thought of using a Contender sight (probably have 2 or 3 laying around here somewhere).
I was wondering about the threads on the 499 tube, but it looks like it works fine (I don’t have a lathe either, have had to use the “poor man’s lathe” on many occasions).
One of my “projects-in-waiting” is an extended Ryder with a Crosman 760 barrel… my 760’s will shoot the centers out of the groups I can do with any of my springers. Guessing that extra barrel length and longer sight radius might help.
I gave up on using machine screws to hold abutment halves together, I just drill a .055” hole in the crease behind the rivet and secure with “u” shaped pieces of electric fence wire…pics aren’t too clear because of the epoxy, but maybe you can see what I mean.
I’ve done several this way and have never had one work loose or come apart.
For scope mounting, looking at straying off the reservation and making a longer version of pictured peep sight mount and attaching a base to it.
I want to try this because it isn’t plastic, it’s very stable, and requires no modification except longer screws for stock and trigger.View attachment 1146277View attachment 1146278 View attachment 1146279View attachment 1146279

I bought the Black E6000 Glue at a local hardware store but not sure who else has it. I clipped the studs off the metal side of the abutment and drilled and tapped the metal side for 4-40 screws to hold the clamshell together. Looks like your method would be easier. The threaded end of the barrel was filed down just enough to fit in and clamp down in the abutment. I like your peep setup, but I never shot that good with one. Here is a picture, with a piece of threaded rod instead of a barrel, of how I set up my drill press and vise to file down the barrel threaded end. The file was locked in a cross-travel vise so it could let a sharp good quality file be cranked in slowly a little at a time with the vise running the drill speed on low. With this vise I could move the file back and forth a little to keep the cutting grooves clear. I did not want to put much lateral pressure on the drill shaft. Just took my time and let the file do the work. This got a smooth straight end to place in the abutment of the correct diameter. This is an old Craftsman floor press. I don't know if I would try with a cheap drill press.

 

[VMC]

It turned out really nice, attractive color too !
Is that Poplar, or does your Lowe’s have something that ours doesn’t ?

If I remember correctly, it was listed as Premium Pine. There were no blemishes or knots anywhere in it. The two boards were actually 1/2" thick so laminated to 1" thick fit perfectly into the receiver. I like the color contrast on this gun. Here is a better wood picture. It is completely dry with no resins or smell like the regular pine they have.

 

[cobalt327]

Forgive me if this has already been covered, but Rex- what about your stock? That doesn't look like factory stain. Not much of it is showing but I'm inclined to think the stock itself may not be Daisy-issue. And what about the lever for that matter? A lot's going on in this photo, me thinks...

 

[teerex.otw]

Forgive me if this has already been covered, but Rex- what about your stock? That doesn't look like factory stain. Not much of it is showing but I'm inclined to think the stock itself may not be Daisy-issue. And what about the lever for that matter? A lot's going on in this photo, me thinks...

View attachment 1146331

Stock is a standard RR stock, orange stuff stripped, 2 coats B.C. Walnut, 1 coat Minwax Golden Oak, Polyurethane topcoat.
Lever is a loopless design, one of several different ideas I’ve tried because my fingers don’t fit in a standard Daisy lever…these actually work pretty well, comfortable grip and don’t have to thread fingers thru a loop or use the dreaded “over-the-lever” grip.

 

[teerex.otw]

Looking back, I realize I haven’t taken any pics of this one finished.
Shown with it’s predecessor, a 105b with R.R. furniture (and the recipient of the other half of it’s magazine tube).
Each one I do gets a couple of mods the one before didn’t get…still looking for my happy place I guess.
Anyway, power & accuracy are decent, only issue is the typical failure-to-feed, which I hope to remedy with the next one…straight-stock, big loop lever, billet trigger, muzzle-mod “package”, power plant upgrades, and T.C.-inspired tube-feed (Warp Speed II ? lol).

 

[cobalt327]

The stain combo you came up with looks great. I've never liked the factory orange mud Daisy used nowadays. In years past, they have used much nicer shades; I especially liked the stain they used right around 2000. The photo at the bottom shows a 2001 over an early Chinese production 1938B.

I find myself gripping the entire lever, not "fingers through loop". Even though I'm used to it, it's definitely not ideal. but your lever would take care of that. I'm also liking the more streamlined shorter magazine look.

All in all, a very handsome pair of shooters. Well done!

 

[teerex.otw]

Mark,
Thank you for the kind words !
I’m not sure if the Daisy orange is pigmented varnish, or some form of paint…at least it strips easily.
I’ve tried (and am still trying) a variety of different dye/stain combinations.
The biggest challenge is getting forend and stock to match, especially if working with two different species of wood ( hence all the questions here and on D.T.).
The short tube was partially inspired by a Glenfield version of a Marlin 336 that I used to borrow from my brother-in-law to hunt deer. For being a “plain-Jane” it was a well-balanced, sweet-handling little package, and I always liked the way it looked.
There is a practical side as well, I do some rather extensive mods at the muzzle and the tube was just in the way, so it had to be shortened…the bonus is that the way the short tube is secured it provides zero-movement, no squeak, no creak forend mounting (another thing that drove me bonkers !)
Also, another detail I like to do with this mod is to solder the bottom seam from tube to muzzle for a seamless appearance.
Guess that’s what I love about these guns…everything you try seems to lead to a half-dozen other possibilities.
I don’t think we can live long enough to say “well, that’s it, there’s nothing else left to try” !

 

[TerryCowger]

I will agree with Mark about your guns and I must add that they are VERY WELL DONE !
You do a very clean setup and fabricate some really kool parts with a lot of attention payed to the details and that's what makes the difference .
Very nicely done I'm impressed !!
Terry

 

[teerex.otw]

I will agree with Mark about your guns and I must add that they are VERY WELL DONE !
You do a very clean setup and fabricate some really kool parts with a lot of attention payed to the details and that's what makes the difference .
Very nicely done I'm impressed !!
Terry

Thanks Terry,
That’s very kind of you !
Truth is, most of what I do is function based. My main goal is to make my stuff durable and have it work right.
Some things serve a dual purpose, like for instance; pretty much all I work on gets a buttplate, it helps protect the stock from damage, but also adds a more finished appearance. Another small detail I’ve been doing is “doming” the nuts, it gets rid of some sharp edges, but also helps alleviate the “hardware store” appearance of the original hex nuts…just small details.
But having said that, nothing I do could be described as artistic…I’m in awe of the work you’ve done ! I wouldn’t even attempt the Mahogany inlays or the inletting you’ve done on yours, not to mention the parts you’ve designed and built…simply fabulous!
Rex