Putting a little more power in a $15.00 Daisy

Air tube mods will consist of enlarging the tube's inner diameter up to 1/8, what are you guys having luck with? what is to big? The air inlet hole will be modified, the hard entry with be radiused, the back will be epoxied shut eliminating any turbulence all air will easily shoot out the front with very little turbulence. Air doesn't not like to flow around sharp edges and turns here is a picture showing what area will be epoxied.
 

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Cvans said:
You guys are having too much fun. It's been some time since I did the mods to mine so I can't recall what all took place. Going to have to go back and look at earlier posts to refresh my memory. Shooting grasshoppers sounds like a hoot.
I don't think you should worry about using daisy parts in other guns. It all makes for interesting reading. If it starts getting into modifying PCP's or the likes of that Mark might discourage you.
Nice to see activity here again. Thanks for posting.
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That's a fine looking shooter, Chris- and the forearm is the best looking one I have seen yet. I ought to get with Shane some day and see if he'll do one for my #1 1938B since it already has one of his stock sets...
 
BHR said:
Air tube mods will consist of enlarging the tube's inner diameter up to 1/8, what are you guys having luck with? what is to big? The air inlet hole will be modified, the hard entry with be radiused, the back will be epoxied shot eliminating any turbulence all air will easily shoot out the front with very little turbulence. Air doesn't not like to flow around sharp edges and turns here is a picture showing what area will be epoxied.
Click to expand...
I use 7/64" ID. 1/8 is doable, but the walls are too thin for my taste. If I thought I had to have more, I'd make it from 304 stainless high pressure thin wall tubing from McM-Carr. It has a 0.135" ID.
 
teerex.otw said:
I did a little more digging (curiosity),
if I’ve got this right (?), the 1938 should take the same seal set as the 102, 111, etc. @ .930” o.d.
The “b” series guns are all around .890” o.d., so it would be too small to fit anyway.
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Just took apart a 38B even took the shot tube out and both where around .890 problem is my 1938 is also .890 ordered a new set for 1938 gonna see what they measure because prior to disassembly that 38 was very weak. Now that I have the 38B abutment seal in front of me I may also abandon ship with this mod dont think there's gains here
 
This sounds like someone tried to replace the plunger head in your 1938 with one from a “b” model, or perhaps even replaced the entire plunger assy.
I don’t presently have a ‘38 to check, but if memory serves (if !), it seems like they had the square-backed plunger, whereas the “b” models had an angled back at the trigger end.
The different types are not supposed to work interchangeably, mainly because of the sear angle…but who knows.
 
teerex.otw said:
This sounds like someone tried to replace the plunger head in your 1938 with one from a “b” model, or perhaps even replaced the entire plunger assy.
I don’t presently have a ‘38 to check, but if memory serves (if !), it seems like they had the square-backed plunger, whereas the “b” models had an angled back at the trigger end.
The different types are not supposed to work interchangeably, mainly because of the sear angle…but who knows.
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No that's the plunger tube from the 38B I was just using it to show the double washer method with one behind the wiper, but the plunger seal itself I have both in front of me and they are identical in diameter 1938 and 1938B, I have a 38 specific set on order which is advertised as 29/32" I'm hoping they are bigger then what I have
 
I think you'll find they're the same diameter. The difference is in where the piston is measured. Because the piston walls are tapered, it measures larger at the front.

When a used gun is disassembled, the piston usually looks nothing like a new one because of how a used piston tends to take a set to the diameter of the compression chamber. That is why I always recommend the piston be measured across the middle- that gives a very close approximation of the diameter of the compression chamber.

PISTON NEW TYPE D.jpg
 
cobalt327 said:
I think you'll find they're the same diameter. The difference is in where the piston is measured. Because the piston walls are tapered, it measures larger at the front.

When a used gun is disassembled, the piston usually looks nothing like a new one because of how a used piston tends to take a set to the diameter of the compression chamber. That is why I always recommend the piston be measured across the middle- that gives a very close approximation of the diameter of the compression chamber.

View attachment 1173679
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So the Bs weren't tapered like the pic above?
 
I should add that the rubber pistons start out tapered. But after being in the compression chamber of long enough, the piston will 'take a set' to the diameter of the compression chamber and any taper that is left on the piston may go all but unnoticed.

1938 1974 REG. NO. K407740 F.jpg
 
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I most recently ran into this on a 1938b (my son-in-law’s childhood Daisy that I’m restoring), looked like the one on the left, no taper at all and hard as a rock !
Does rubber just naturally do this, or is it a result of something else ?
 
I'm not really sure what causes the rubber in our BB guns to harden like that. Using aerosol lubes and/or lubes containing solvents tend to soften more than harden rubber, at least in my experience. But it wouldn't surprise me to learn there are things that might be "innocently" used in a BB gun that would prematurely harden rubber.

FWIW, I just did a search for some causes of rubber hardening and one thing that was mentioned was sulfur. It's used to vulcanize rubber, but what I'm unsure of is whether casual contact with sulfur (without heat or pressure) will hurt rubber. Like if a lube containing sulfur could cause hardening.
I also found this page informative: http://www.real-seal.com/blog/rubber-seal-deterioration-causes/#:~:text=Light, heat, and oxygen exposure can cause physical and chemical,and even fade in color.
 
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cobalt327 said:
I'm not really sure what causes the rubber in our BB guns to harden like that. Using aerosol lubes and/or lubes containing solvents tend to soften more than harden rubber, at least in my experience. But it wouldn't surprise me to learn there are things that might be "innocently" used in a BB gun that would prematurely harden rubber.

FWIW, I just did a search for some causes of rubber hardening and one thing that was mentioned was sulfur. It's used to vulcanize rubber, but what I'm unsure of is whether casual contact with sulfur (without heat or pressure) will hurt rubber. Like if a lube containing sulfur could cause hardening.
I also found this page informative: http://www.real-seal.com/blog/rubber-seal-deterioration-causes/#:~:text=Light, heat, and oxygen exposure can cause physical and chemical,and even fade in color.
Click to expand...

Interesting…
The change in shape isn’t that much of a mystery, as most things that are pliable (wood, leather, rubber, some plastics) will eventually change shape if kept compressed.
Hardening was the puzzle; Sulfur makes sense as it is present in a lot of petroleum products (diesel fuel for one), and who knows what lube was used on this ?
Good answer, and thanks !
 
Ahhh !
Getting to that time of year again where I can tinker without melting.
I’ve been wanting to try this mod for a while, and finally got to it today.
It consists of removing the bb retaining spring from a bottlecap tube, installing a magnet, and covering the holes on the bottom.
I don’t know if this can help performance any, but I don’t see how it can hurt…just have to try it and see.
This is a 95 tube that I’m modifying to fit a 299. I still have to reposition the spoon, and haven’t decided yet whether I’m going to just cover the old locator hole, or try a “hop-up” experiment…will probably just tape up the hole for now (while I test to see if the magnet idea works) and decide later.
Question: Does everyone’s workbench attract as much clutter as mine ? D38719F5-E451-4E25-A08C-BD3C42669748.jpeg 4969C9DD-1D19-49FB-B4E0-294367993706.jpeg 0DB03D22-9B7D-4585-94CE-37EE31F4FCB2.jpeg
 
Has anyone considered a BB feed system where you rotate the bottle cap 90 degrees to load the chamber and then rotate it back to seal the chamber before cocking and firing the gun?
It would be about the same as just muzzle loading but you could use the barrel shroud for a magazine as intended and not have to handle each BB.
 
derf said:
Has anyone considered a BB feed system where you rotate the bottle cap 90 degrees to load the chamber and then rotate it back to seal the chamber before cocking and firing the gun?
It would be about the same as just muzzle loading but you could use the barrel shroud for a magazine as intended and not have to handle each BB.
Click to expand...
I thought about something similar, but abandoned the idea (no really good way to make it work).
However…A few pages back in this thread, Terry Cowger came up with an idea for a sealed tube-feed system. It’s actually not all that difficult to do this mod, and it works really well (I’ve done three so far, two in #25 tubes, and one in a 1938b). This mod addresses several issues, and I’ve been very happy with it.
 
BHR said:
Made head way with the spring and plunger tube made spacer and washers for it and filed the edges where the spring rides on the plunger tube for smoother operation so the spring doesnt get cut up on it mine was rather sharp to start with, has anyone tried using a spacer on the heavier springs? this spacer is 1/4

Also pondering about double washer behind the plunger one behind the plunger but also one behind the oil wiper this should keep the wiper standing tall and not folding over itself

Next up will modifying the air tube
Click to expand...
Hello BHR,Im a bit curious on the results you got from adding the 1/4 in spacer to colbolts hp spring. I do recall him frowning upon doing so.Have you run the gun over a crono?
 
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