Putting a little more power in a $15.00 Daisy

Have any of you guys ever fitted a 499B barrel into any other airgun of any type?

Now that I have the 499B and have realized first hand how accurate and consistent the barrel shoots, my 'wheels are turning'. I have a co2 BB revolver that will only hold 2" at 10yds..., and that's with a red dot sight shooting off a rest. Pretty disappointing accuracy. I am sitting here wondering about the possibility of fitting the OEM 499B barrel into the revolver.

I have not pulled the barrel from the revolver yet to get an O.D. measurement. Hopefully the 499B barrel is at least as large, or larger O.D. than the barrel in the revolver??? For that matter..., I haven't measured the O.D. of my 499B barrel/shot tube either. It's sighted very precisely at the moment and I am enjoying shooting groups with it daily so I haven't wanted to ruin the POI by pulling the barrel/shot tube out of the rifle.

At any rate, this idea intrigues me. If I pursue this project I'll report in this thread. :cool:
 
Have any of you guys ever fitted a 499B barrel into any other airgun of any type?

Now that I have the 499B and have realized first hand how accurate and consistent the barrel shoots, my 'wheels are turning'. I have a co2 BB revolver that will only hold 2" at 10yds..., and that's with a red dot sight shooting off a rest. Pretty disappointing accuracy. I am sitting here wondering about the possibility of fitting the OEM 499B barrel into the revolver.

I have not pulled the barrel from the revolver yet to get an O.D. measurement. Hopefully the 499B barrel is at least as large, or larger O.D. than the barrel in the revolver??? For that matter..., I haven't measured the O.D. of my 499B barrel/shot tube either. It's sighted very precisely at the moment and I am enjoying shooting groups with it daily so I haven't wanted to ruin the POI by pulling the barrel/shot tube out of the rifle.

At any rate, this idea intrigues me. If I pursue this project I'll report in this thread. :cool:

Best I can recall, the 499 shot tube is around 5/16” o.d. and 9” long (if i’m not mistaken, threads are 5/16-24).
On page 76 of this thread are some photos of a 105b that a member grafted one of these tubes into, and he was quite happy with it.
Somewhere earlier in this thread, I remember seeing pics of an 880 s.b.r. with one of these also.
This tube is probably an upgrade to any bb shooter you choose to adapt it to, I have long wanted to adapt one to a Red Ryder. With peep sights, longer stock, and an ersatz “Lightning-Loader”, it should be everything I want in a “plinker” (too hot to work on one now, maybe this fall).
If you try this with the Crosman, the results would be interesting indeed !
Good luck !
 
Best I can recall, the 499 shot tube is around 5/16” o.d. and 9” long (if i’m not mistaken, threads are 5/16-24).
On page 76 of this thread are some photos of a 105b that a member grafted one of these tubes into, and he was quite happy with it.
Somewhere earlier in this thread, I remember seeing pics of an 880 s.b.r. with one of these also.
This tube is probably an upgrade to any bb shooter you choose to adapt it to, I have long wanted to adapt one to a Red Ryder. With peep sights, longer stock, and an ersatz “Lightning-Loader”, it should be everything I want in a “plinker” (too hot to work on one now, maybe this fall).
If you try this with the Crosman, the results would be interesting indeed !
Good luck !
Thanks kindly for that info. I just ordered a new 499B Shot Tube from Mark's Ebay store. I'll take some pics and show results of fitting the 499B tube to my co2 revolver.

Bye the way, I pulled the revolver apart today to get dimensions so I now know the 499B tube can be fit. :cool:
 
Since this thread is about modding Daisy lever-guns I do not want to hijack the thread so I'll keep it short.

I received a new 499B barrel/shot tube from Mark today. I set about turning the Daisy precision barrel into a barrel that will fit into my S&W co2 revolver.

I made the new Daisy revolver barrel 1.150" longer than the stock barrel and about .002" tighter bore. Also, the stock barrel had two points of contact touching the barrel in the muzzle end of the outer barrel. I did not consider that fit to be conducive to accuracy. The new Daisy barrel only has one point of contact (at the brass sleeve) and fit into the outer barrel is within .0005" so there is no 'slop'. On the breech end the stock barrel had a loose fit by about .006" into the aluminum breech sleeve. The new barrel has .001" clearance into the breech sleeve.

We'll put the revolver together tomorrow and see how it all worked out??? :cool:

New Daisy 499B barrel top, stock barrel bottom.


EDIT: I got the revolver back together today. I can report that the newly fabricated 499B barrel fit perfectly back into the Umarex revolver.

After firing the revolver off the bench I can say for sure that shot-to-shot consistency is vastly improved over the stock barrel. The stock barrel use to throw 2-shots out of every 6-shots (cylinder capacity) way out of the group. It was always frustrating! At any rate..., I fired 72 shots today (so far) and every group shows the Hornady BBs evenly spaced within the group. Really..., there were no 'wild' flyers like I was accustomed to with the stock barrel.

It's hard for me to say at this point whether groups size is improved overall. Since I bought this revolver in 2019 I have always fired it with an optic mounted on the pic rail. But, while I had the revolver apart and waiting for Mark to ship the new 499B barrel, I pulled the red-dot sight and added it to another BB-gun. So, today I was shooting with open sights. Once I get another optic on the revolver I'll be able to form an opinion about the overall accuracy improvement of the 499B barrel over the stock barrel. :cool:

New Daisy 499B barrel installed in my Umarex, S&W revolver.
 
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Sharing a couple simple mods. to my 499B.

3-weeks ago I got my 499B and fired some outstanding groups with it right out of the box. I commented that I was going to put a red-dot sight on the little rifle but changed my mind since it grouped so well with the stock peep sights. As you can see from the pics, I changed my mind again. o_O

We live semi-rural and our property backs-up to National Forest land. We can jump in our side-by-side and drive literally hundreds of miles of forest roads right from our home.

I shoot my airguns off the back porch. My various targets (paper, steel, tin-cans) are set in the pines with varying light & shadows. There lies the problem with the 499B peep-sight. If I was just shooting paper in a well lighted area the peep sight would be hard to beat. However, I also like to use the 499Bs accuracy to shoot small steel & tin-can targets at farther distance. Trying to see a swinging tin-can at 20yds in the light & shadows of the trees is nearly impossible at various times of the day.

So, after using the 'sweet' shooting little smooth-bore for a few weeks I broke-down and mounted a red-dot. The rifle is now so much better for shooting all the various targets and light conditions I experience in the trees off our porch. :cool:

For those who have wondered about the dimensions of the rear sight mounting plate and whether there is a way to add an optic, I can tell ya that it works. It works well so long as you feel the 1-1/4" long spot-welded steel plate is strong enough to hold the optic you want to use. An 11mm to pic rail mount tightens-up just fine. I don't think I would trust the short steel plate to securely hold a long pic rail with a scoped optic, but a red dot or similar size sight mounts securely! I have had no POI shift with my red-dot in several hundred rounds fired.

If you want to use your 499B for targets other than paper in good lighting, a red-dot type optic might also work for you.






For $15 and 15-seconds of your time you can add 1" to the LOP on your 499B. This is just one fast & easy way to get added LOP.

This slip-on recoil pad is a Pachmayr Renegade, size-small.


 
I really enjoy plinking with my 499b, especially since replacing the original mainspring with a Red Ryder spring and a short spacer (Cobalt327 was right…those bb’s come out smokin’ !)
One thing I didn’t enjoy was staging bb’s for their one-way journey downrange. It was either dump some out on a towel, or put some in a tin, cup, bowl, etc. (which the cats promptly knocked over).
I tried this idea first with a piece of a broken microwave magnet, it worked but looked awful, I decided to make it permanent with three 5/16” magnets (Harbor Freight), a little E-6000, and shallow holes drilled with a brad-point bit.
This will easily hold up to a couple dozen rounds, easy to handle (and handy), and I haven’t seen recoil shake any off.
 

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Yes, it can.
It involves drilling and tapping a hole for the second crossbolt and filing out a notch for the safety.
I have this trigger assy. in both of my 95b’s (both original triggers came out in pieces, and they are hard to find), and they work well !
 
I really enjoy plinking with my 499b, especially since replacing the original mainspring with a Red Ryder spring and a short spacer (Cobalt327 was right…those bb’s come out smokin’ !)
One thing I didn’t enjoy was staging bb’s for their one-way journey downrange. It was either dump some out on a towel, or put some in a tin, cup, bowl, etc. (which the cats promptly knocked over).
I tried this idea first with a piece of a broken microwave magnet, it worked but looked awful, I decided to make it permanent with three 5/16” magnets (Harbor Freight), a little E-6000, and shallow holes drilled with a brad-point bit.
This will easily hold up to a couple dozen rounds, easy to handle (and handy), and I haven’t seen recoil shake any off.
Now that's a unique idea! I do like you mentioned..., pour the BBs on a towel.
 
Ok, my 499b is not a $15.00 Daisy by any stretch, but you can color me “impressed” anyway.
After installing the Ryder spring and .200” spacer, I knew it was shooting pretty fast, but I’ve only been shooting at some old cans I had hanging. When I finally clipped the wire, it was time for a new can. This is a brand-new 8oz steel can (sliced mushrooms), distance is a measured 62’
I was thrilled to see where bb’s punctured the can, and ecstatic to see where some of the dead-center shots also left exit wounds !
At this range all of my other springers just dent the can… 54800305-F3E3-45B9-B841-1E839688D521.jpeg 927CDB91-F952-4947-94BF-4B43FB93903F.jpeg C5E337CA-6029-4803-84F8-5006C9C10D61.jpeg
 
Dang, that's some FPE from a 499B!

I have tin-cans hanging on 1/8" steel rods from PVC pipe stands. The closest I have them from my shooting position is 10yds. My stock 499B will only dent a small, standard Campbell's tomato soup can at that 10yds.

Even though the stock 499B has little power, I love how it will hit a standard sized vegetable tin-can out to 20yds and almost never miss unless there is wind! That's why I am a little unsure about wanting to up the power of my almost-new 499B as I don't want to ruin the accuracy it has now??? Perhaps after the new wears off and the novelty of it's accuracy fades I'll go after a spring swap. It's nice to know that it can be done. I appreciate you sharing what ya have done to up the power.

The Daisy 499B 5M Match BB-Rifle is so accurate I can shoot the heads off Grasshoppers out to about 10yds (from some shooting just this morning)!
 
Dang !
I can barely see grasshoppers @ 10 yards…but I’ve worn out a bunch of those fat-butt carpenter bees at closer ranges (that’ll teach ‘em to chew holes in my rafters !)
Anyway, I tried again on a somewhat heavier-duty can (kidney beans, I think), no pass-throughs, but did get some pretty good splits with dead-center hits.
Just for comparison, I shot this same can with my old smooth-bore 880, and 5 pumps would usually make a split, 7 pumps would pass right through.
BTW, I haven’t really noticed a decline in accuracy (more testing to do).
 
can the daisy 499B trigger be installed and used in a daisy 95B ?
thank you for the reply. i did not mean to post this within another post but it did get results. i had bought a 499b trigger and it appeared that i could be fitted to a daisy 95. just wanted to see if someone had already made this modification.
 
I don’t want to clog this thread up with off-topic stuff (I’ve probably already posted more questionable items than I should have).
If you’re interested in more info, pics, etc., you are welcome to e-mail me (address is in my profile).
Rex
 
Sharing a couple simple mods. to my 499B.

3-weeks ago I got my 499B and fired some outstanding groups with it right out of the box. I commented that I was going to put a red-dot sight on the little rifle but changed my mind since it grouped so well with the stock peep sights. As you can see from the pics, I changed my mind again. o_O

We live semi-rural and our property backs-up to National Forest land. We can jump in our side-by-side and drive literally hundreds of miles of forest roads right from our home.

I shoot my airguns off the back porch. My various targets (paper, steel, tin-cans) are set in the pines with varying light & shadows. There lies the problem with the 499B peep-sight. If I was just shooting paper in a well lighted area the peep sight would be hard to beat. However, I also like to use the 499Bs accuracy to shoot small steel & tin-can targets at farther distance. Trying to see a swinging tin-can at 20yds in the light & shadows of the trees is nearly impossible at various times of the day.

So, after using the 'sweet' shooting little smooth-bore for a few weeks I broke-down and mounted a red-dot. The rifle is now so much better for shooting all the various targets and light conditions I experience in the trees off our porch. :cool:

For those who have wondered about the dimensions of the rear sight mounting plate and whether there is a way to add an optic, I can tell ya that it works. It works well so long as you feel the 1-1/4" long spot-welded steel plate is strong enough to hold the optic you want to use. An 11mm to pic rail mount tightens-up just fine. I don't think I would trust the short steel plate to securely hold a long pic rail with a scoped optic, but a red dot or similar size sight mounts securely! I have had no POI shift with my red-dot in several hundred rounds fired.

If you want to use your 499B for targets other than paper in good lighting, a red-dot type optic might also work for you.






For $15 and 15-seconds of your time you can add 1" to the LOP on your 499B. This is just one fast & easy way to get added LOP.

This slip-on recoil pad is a Pachmayr Renegade, size-small.



Sharing a couple simple mods. to my 499B.

3-weeks ago I got my 499B and fired some outstanding groups with it right out of the box. I commented that I was going to put a red-dot sight on the little rifle but changed my mind since it grouped so well with the stock peep sights. As you can see from the pics, I changed my mind again. o_O

We live semi-rural and our property backs-up to National Forest land. We can jump in our side-by-side and drive literally hundreds of miles of forest roads right from our home.

I shoot my airguns off the back porch. My various targets (paper, steel, tin-cans) are set in the pines with varying light & shadows. There lies the problem with the 499B peep-sight. If I was just shooting paper in a well lighted area the peep sight would be hard to beat. However, I also like to use the 499Bs accuracy to shoot small steel & tin-can targets at farther distance. Trying to see a swinging tin-can at 20yds in the light & shadows of the trees is nearly impossible at various times of the day.

So, after using the 'sweet' shooting little smooth-bore for a few weeks I broke-down and mounted a red-dot. The rifle is now so much better for shooting all the various targets and light conditions I experience in the trees off our porch. :cool:

For those who have wondered about the dimensions of the rear sight mounting plate and whether there is a way to add an optic, I can tell ya that it works. It works well so long as you feel the 1-1/4" long spot-welded steel plate is strong enough to hold the optic you want to use. An 11mm to pic rail mount tightens-up just fine. I don't think I would trust the short steel plate to securely hold a long pic rail with a scoped optic, but a red dot or similar size sight mounts securely! I have had no POI shift with my red-dot in several hundred rounds fired.

If you want to use your 499B for targets other than paper in good lighting, a red-dot type optic might also work for you.






For $15 and 15-seconds of your time you can add 1" to the LOP on your 499B. This is just one fast & easy way to get added LOP.

This slip-on recoil pad is a Pachmayr Renegade, size-small.


How does the red dot do vs. peep for accuracy st 10 yards or so?
 
How does the red dot compare with the peep sight for accuracy at ten yards?
As I mentioned in the thread above, the red dot sight is much much better for shooting in a variety of lighting situations. Various sizes and colors of targets are nearly impossible to see through the peep-sight in light & shadow type lighting. Even in good light it can be hard to see small targets at farther range.

However, I can say with certainty that I CANNOT shoot as consistent of groups on paper at 10-yards with the red-dot as I did with the peep-sight. Even though they say red-dot sights to not have parallax error..., they do. It's a fact the red-dot sights do have a degree of parallax error and if the shooter does not keep the dot in the dead center of the optic the aim point will be slightly compromised.

If I was only going to shoot paper at 10yds or closer and..., lighting was proper, I would only shoot the peep-sight. But, since I also shoot at all sorts & sizes of targets sometime in the trees the red-dot sight is the more useful choice (for me).

Bye the way..., the 499B will tell you when the barrel needs cleaned. Groups do for sure open-up and become less consistent when the barrel is just a little bit dirty. Two patches with denatured alcohol is all I have used to clean the bore and group size goes back to normal.
 
Has any one used the 1938B abutment seal on a standard 1938? The seal on the B's have the contours that matches the piston notches which would allow for more compression. I think with a little trimming on the back of the 1938B seal making it flat should make it work I'm unsure about the diameter and width though as I don't have one in hand to check
 

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BHR,
I considered trying this on a 96 a while back, but abandoned the idea.
I liked the idea of a tighter fit on the 4mm seamless airtube vs the rubber seal, however…
The original kind of molds itself over the abutment washer foldover tabs, whereas the harder plastic would not do this as well, and under certain circumstances (i.e. very cold weather) could even crack.
But the all-stop for me is that the plastic seal is thinner, which would place it fully behind the “stakes” that held the original seal in place, which means the plunger head would get damaged running over the stakes with every shot and probably fail rather quickly.
There are some other issues as well, but these were enough for me to drop the idea.
Still, it may be possible if a spacer was used between the seal and abutment washer. It would be interesting if anyone has actually tried it (and if it was worth the effort).
 
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I did a little more digging (curiosity),
if I’ve got this right (?), the 1938 should take the same seal set as the 102, 111, etc. @ .930” o.d.
The “b” series guns are all around .890” o.d., so it would be too small to fit anyway.
 
You guys are having too much fun. It's been some time since I did the mods to mine so I can't recall what all took place. Going to have to go back and look at earlier posts to refresh my memory. Shooting grasshoppers sounds like a hoot.
I don't think you should worry about using daisy parts in other guns. It all makes for interesting reading. If it starts getting into modifying PCP's or the likes of that Mark might discourage you.
Nice to see activity here again. Thanks for posting.
1695662747463.png
 
Made head way with the spring and plunger tube made spacer and washers for it and filed the edges where the spring rides on the plunger tube for smoother operation so the spring doesnt get cut up on it mine was rather sharp to start with, has anyone tried using a spacer on the heavier springs? this spacer is 1/4

Also pondering about double washer behind the plunger one behind the plunger but also one behind the oil wiper this should keep the wiper standing tall and not folding over itself

Next up will modifying the air tube
 

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BHR,
I considered trying this on a 96 a while back, but abandoned the idea.
I liked the idea of a tighter fit on the 4mm seamless airtube vs the rubber seal, however…
The original kind of molds itself over the abutment washer foldover tabs, whereas the harder plastic would not do this as well, and under certain circumstances (i.e. very cold weather) could even crack.
But the all-stop for me is that the plastic seal is thinner, which would place it fully behind the “stakes” that held the original seal in place, which means the plunger head would get damaged running over the stakes with every shot and probably fail rather quickly.
There are some other issues as well, but these were enough for me to drop the idea.
Still, it may be possible if a spacer was used between the seal and abutment washer. It would be interesting if anyone has actually tried it (and if it was worth the effort).
Is the diameter the same? I may slice and glue the difference of the original rubber abutment seal behind the plastic seal of the 38B my original seal is 23.3mm in diameter and 6.6mm in width
 
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