The slide on my M&P is rusting

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I let my XDSC get damp and forgot to clean/oil it. It developed a little bit of surface rust. No ones fault but mine. Cleaned it up and it's good to go.

Water and metal is a bad combination. Sweat and metal is worse.
 
The overwhelming majority of "Ti" marked firearms are referring to titanium nitride finish.

I know what Titanium Nitrade is... This is the text with the photo
My remaining SIGMA is a SW40Ti. This pistol has a Titanium slide instead of a stainless steel slide. The stainless version of the 40 SIGMA weighs 20% more than the Titanium version. I believe mine is the fifth of five pistols produced. It remains unfired to this day. I have never seen another SW40Ti in person or heard of another outside of S&W.
 
I know what Titanium Nitrade is

Taurus also says their Titanium gun weighs less. Obviously it could be marketing FUD, but for the weight saving, the slide would have to be at least a Titanium alloy and not just steel with a titanium nitride finish.
 
The overwhelming majority of "Ti" marked firearms are referring to titanium nitride finish.
Not in my experience. Taurus definitely made pistols with titanium slides; and both S&W and Taurus definitely make revolvers with Titanium cylinders. Taurus did some all Ti revolvers with steel barrel sleeves, and S&W still does Scandium frames on both revolvers & 1911s.

ETA the Remington Ti series long guns are the Ti marked firearms I can think of that were TiNi finished, but I'm sure there are others.
 
I had one in 9mm not long after they came out. I never carried it, and I kept it wiped down with clp. And it still developed rust. I will admit to having rather toxic sweat too, but nothing would keep that thing from rusting. It's long been sold.
 
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I've had an M&P9c for the past two and a half years that I carry on rare occasions. Mostly, it's a plinker and weekend range gun. I have to confess that I've been less than diligent about cleaning it immediately upon returning home, letting it sit for several days sometimes before I even take it out of the range bag.

No rust anywhere. I'm under the impression that it's a very sturdy and corrosion resistant piece.

Sorry you've had the rust issue with yours. Like others have already posted, it seems that S&W had a batch that was incorrectly finished and yours might be part of that bunch. My bet is that S&W will make it right.

Let us know how it turns out.
 
that's right. rub antiperspirant on your hips.

Alright, here we go:

Cleaning a CCW piece - when and how?

By KC

I have been frequently asked in my newspaper column about weapons maintenance. One reader writes:

"Dear KC,
I carry a handgun concealed for defense. Sometimes after a hot day, or after a strenuous day, my handgun has rust on it! Why does this happen?
Rusty in Georgia."

Rusty, your sweat contains a lot of things, including urea and salt. I'm no chemist, but salt always causes rust on metal. So the obvious answer is: don't sweat on your gun!

Here is a great article from Accurateshooter.wordpress.com that explains how salts can corrode metal, especially certain stainless steels!

"Halogen salts, especially chlorides, easily penetrate this passive film and will allow corrosive attack to occur. The halogens are easy to recognize because they end in the letters ‘ine’. Listed in order of their activity they are: fluorine, chlorine, bromine, iodine, astatine."

So, to all of you out there that own stainless steel firearms: you're not safe either!

A general rule of thumb goes like this: If it comes out of me, it shouldn't be on my machinery! This includes blood and urine. Urine contains urea, same as your sweat, which can corrode metals.

But never fear, Rusty in Georgia! You can't avoid all of these fluids all of the time, but some preventative maintenance will keep the Rust Monster from showing up!

Step 1: Buy a paintbrush and rag.

I know, it sounds silly: Paintbrush? Am I going to paint my S&W bright orange for the bears? No, but it would be silly!

Anyway, go to Home Depot or something and buy a 1 1/2in paintbrush. Nothing special, I bought the $0.50 special. Make a rag out of something, I use an old sock.

Step 2: Buy some Protectant.

I prefer Break Free CLP, and all that matters here is that the bottle or can or whatever has a way to effectively apply the protectant to the bristles.

Step 3: Clear the gun!

ALWAYS make sure your guns are unloaded before you do anything with them, and this includes cleaning, or a "wipe down."

Then check again.

Step 4: Paint the gun!

Yes, that's right; paint that gun with it! Make sure to get it in all the nooks and crannies.

Step 5: Wipe the protectant off.

Make sure you wipe the trigger off so your finger doesn't slip.

I hope this helps you out, Rusty in Georgia! I've done this for years, and I can tell you from first hand experience that this procedure works! It saved my little Kel-Tec mouse gun from a 5 1/2 hour mosh pit fest in a Rob Zombie concert!

With mucho amor de pistola,

KC
 
This is all very upsetting. I just bought an M&P 9, and the front sight insert fell out within 100 rounds 2 days after I bought it. I patched it with a half drop of white paint, and it looks good as new. Just a PIA.

Now I have something else to look forward to.
 
We are carrying M&P40's at work, we had some rusting problems with our first batch, we were told that Smith had a problem with the contractor doing the finish on the slides. This is supposed to have been fixed now.
 
I used to live in NC and barrels would rust all the time

I live in NC. I periodically wipe down anything I carry in the summer. It gets hot. It gets humid. I sweat. If I'm working outdoors, I'm going to get sweat on anything I carry in any holster unless the weapon is vacuum sealed. If it is made of metal, it will rust regardless of finish, treatment or coating.

Stainless will rust and even the mighty glock will rust if you don't wipe it down from time to time. Granted, I've only seen barrel rust on a Glock or rust on spots where there is heavy holster wear and the owner never does any pm. At any rate, it's good practice to field strip once a week and wipe down any ccw piece if you are in a humid environment or you sweat while carrying. That's something everyone should be doing, anyway. You never know what kind of fuzz or lint is getting in there, particularly if you carry IWB.
 
I would rather see a consistant carbon steel version that never rusts than have a 1 in 5 failure rate with a process that makes stainless more rustable than regular carbon steel.

.... What?

Carbon Steel has the advantage of being a hard steel, making it a good candidate for a heavy use knife blade. It will hold an edge very well.

One thing it is NOT known for is being impervious to rust.
 
For the folks that want to flame etc, do you really think I just noticed this when I posted it? Cmon. Life is busy. I finally got around to sharing & I get a bunch of "you haven't cared for the gun"
 
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