The THR Walker Club

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Thought about the Ruger type bolt as well, would need a plunger and spring in the hammer as well. Hmmmm. Currently having a throwby issue with my old ASM Walker, it's been changed to a Ruger type hand spring and plunger plus coil springs for trigger and bolt stop. Main concern is possible breakage of original bolt stop. Open to suggestions at this point.
 
Coil springs for trigger and bolt? Who did that? (Just curious) (I do that!)

The use of the Ruger coil and plunger is one good possibility for the throw-by ( the famous Ruger beauty ring on the cyl). It is too weak for a handspring setup. Right when you need the "braking power" from the hand, the Ruger setup is at the weakest position (stationary, frame mounted spring) but the flat spring mounted on the hand (moving with the hand) provides the gaining tension needed for the braking effect for lockup. You may need a new spring for your plunger. I do my own version of the Ruger coil handspring but I use a larger diameter "pushrod" (plunger) with a shorter but stouter spring. It more mimics the braking function of the original flat spring setup but is a lifetime conversion.

So, for the throw-by problem look for a bad /weak handspring, binding plunger , cracked or binding bolt spring .

For the Ruger "solid bolt" conversion, the "solid bolt" is as far as the Ruger aspect of it goes. I have developed my own actuation for it which will remove the "this spring is stronger than that spring" (and vice versa) fight that the tuner has to contend with (very aggravating!!) . So, no spring and plunger in the hammer. I should be posting pictures of it soon..

Mike
 
Here's a pic of my Uberti clone along with a couple of my favorite smokewagons:

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Anyone else ever load two balls in each Walker chamber?
Would they fit if 40 grains of Pyrodex P was compressed enough?

Beach-Crow posted:
I use my Walker with packed 40 grains of pyrodex topped with two balls. I have the caps sealed with fingernail polish to prevent any danger of hang-fires.

Shooting for a body mass two balls will drop any meth-head warped on tweek. I have done some research on wound channels. It seems that balls like to bounce around and frankly I trust my Walkers ability to knock down and keep 'em down power as much as a 1911's.

My only concern in home defense is over-penetration and I never think about fast reloading. As blood and brains all over the wall where a partner of his was once standing and breathing suddenly changes the idea that I am an easy target to anyone; plus if they want to push the point I have another five cylinders full. --->>> https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...d-for-self-defense.584788/page-2#post-7220778
 
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This may not be the right place for this question but having recently joined the Walker club I don't know.
So I just got this 1981 asm Walker and the arbor hole is quite a bit different than my other revolvers.
This is a pic with the loading lever assembly removed but the arbor is still in place. My question is if it's normal for the arbor hole to go through like this? IMG_20200904_111538.jpg
It doesn't appear to be fired many times if at all but the cylinder Gap is about .013 which seems excessive. IMG_20200905_121538.jpg
It was sold as "stainless" I don't know how true that is but the cylinder is only very weakly magnetic. There rest is as magnetic as I would expect.
Thanks, and if this is the wrong place let me know.
 

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No sir, the arbor hole shouldn't break through. Many many of the 2nd gen Colt open top revolvers have the same problem. This is where the solid spacer for the "short arbor" fix really shines. It will give a solid seat for the arbor to but up against. I'll see if I have any pictures ( before and after).

It also appears the arbor could go in even a little further (if you drove the wedge in more) and would probably lock up the cylinder . . . which means there isn't really any barrel/cylinder clearance (defined).

So, the problem isn't rare and it's an easy fix.

Mike
 
Thanks Mike.
Right now the catch in the wedge engages with just a light tap, should I get a new wedge and fit it better? Would driving the wedge in further than the catch bring the point of impact up? Take some metal off the barrel lug where it meets the frame maybe? Should I fix the arbor spacing before the rest?
Thanks
 
The lip on the wedge spring is just there to keep from pulling the wedge totally out. Likewise, the wedge screw is there for the lip to have something to catch on. Some folks think the screw is a limiting device for how far the wedge can be inserted . . . it isn't. The limiting factor for wedge insertion is the bottoming of the arbor against the barrel assy.
Yes, driving the wedge in further now would raise the point of impact, which is why fixing the problem will pretty much keep the correct relationship that you should have on that revolver. The most important result of correct arbor length is that you will have the same revolver every single time you reassemble it!! Correcting the sight picture after the fix (if needed) will keep you on target as well.

Leave the barrel lug alone. Yes, the arbor fix should be the.first thing done (on ALL open top copies . . . ever made).

Mike
 
So I took mine to the range after these fixes and it works well except for 1 thing. The loading lever ram has a very sharp cone shape to it and actually grabs the bullets so hard that it tries to rip them back out of the chamber. My temporary fix was to place a 36 Cal ball in the cone shape and ram with that and pry it out with a screwdriver later.
I was thinking about filling the hole with JB weld and mold it to fit conicals or balls. Anyone else have this problem?
 
Yeah that was my first thought as well so I got it pretty well polished but it is still pulling the balls back out. here it is compared to my navy IMG_20200915_123930.jpg

And here is a ball it pulled with it's lead ring IMG_20200915_124539.jpg
 
Is it too late to join the club ? I read every post on every page, typical of me, late to the party and a dollar short! Several posts over 164 pages mention having arbor work done on their Walker. Please excuse my ignorance but can someone explain why this adjustment is necessary and what is required ? Here's mine, also pictured elsewhere;

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electricfactory said:
Is it too late to join the club ? I read every post on every page, typical of me to late to the party and a dollar short! Several mentions over 164 pages mention having arbor work done on their Walker. excuse my ignorance but can someone explain why this adjustment is necessary and what is required ? Here's mine, also pictured elsewhere;

View attachment 944520

View attachment 944521

View attachment 944522
Click to expand...
With 50gr or above charges and sometimes with even less powder, the loading lever is notorious for falling down and stopping the cylinder from rotating, there is a detailed fix that involves squaring the mating surfaces on the catch, works for a time, depending on charges used.
 
electricfactory said:
Several mentions over 164 pages mention having arbor work done on their Walker. excuse my ignorance but can someone explain why this adjustment is necessary and what is required ?
Click to expand...

There's more than one reason to fix the arbor.
One reason is that the barrel - cylinder gap won't stay the same after the wedge is removed and inserted each time.
A short arbor can also put pressure on the wedge which can damage the wedge and/or the barrel slots for the wedge.
Arbor is mentioned 16 times on this page about a new Walker with a tight barrel - cylinder gap due to a short arbor and how deep the wedge is inserted. --->>> https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...ed-on-my-third-black-powder-gun.870729/page-2

Page 2 Post #35 describes how to check the arbor and Page 3 Post #53 describes how to do a quick fix with shims.
 
arcticap said:
There's more than one reason to fix the arbor.
One reason is that the barrel - cylinder gap won't stay the same after the wedge is removed and inserted each time.
A short arbor can also put pressure on the wedge which can damage the wedge and/or the barrel slots for the wedge.
Arbor is mentioned 16 times on this page about a new Walker with a tight barrel - cylinder gap due to a short arbor and how deep the wedge is inserted. --->>> https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...ed-on-my-third-black-powder-gun.870729/page-2

Page 2 Post #35 describes how to check the arbor and Page 3 Post #53 describes how to do a quick fix with shims.
Click to expand...

That's not a good way to check for a short arbor. All of them are short unless they've been corrected. That goes for all open top revolvers except for originals or of recent manufacture from Pietta (around 2011 or so). The best way is to use thin washers and see how many it takes. A solid single spacer is a better fix than a "shim stack". Also, the post in the link above states something about a " corrected" arbor wouldn't be the original condition of the particular revolver . . . huh? Why would anyone rather have the "not-correct" one from the replica manufacturer? I've never understood the idea of being able to put them back in the original fake broken state . . . so they will beat themselves up . . . it makes a "tuned" revolver a "why bother" revolver.

Mike
 
Would this apply to the Dragoon as well ?

45 Dragoon said:
That's not a good way to check for a short arbor. All of them are short unless they've been corrected. That goes for all open top revolvers except for originals or of recent manufacture from Pietta (around 2011 or so). The best way is to use thin washers and see how many it takes. A solid single spacer is a better fix than a "shim stack". Also, the post in the link above states something about a " corrected" arbor wouldn't be the original condition of the particular revolver . . . huh? Why would anyone rather have the "not-correct" one from the replica manufacturer? I've never understood the idea of being able to put them back in the original fake broken state . . . so they will beat themselves up . . . it makes a "tuned" revolver a "why bother" revolver.

Mike
Click to expand...
 
Edit: I found your answer a few posts down from the original, still hope you are well!

Greetings Mukluk,
I hope this finds you well and in good health as your post is 12 years old by now! Could you explain exactly what you did to fix it ?

mukluk said:
Mine used to drop the lever every time with any load above 40gr. After about ten minutes with a file it no longer drops even with 60gr charges.

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Does anyone happen to know where {on the gun} the original Civilian Walkers were marked, and how? These would be the Walkers numbered 1001-1100. I'm assuming no company assignments or military inspector's cartouches...I can find very little on the internet regarding these 100 guns and whether or not any remain in collections or museums.
Also, which Walkers were fitted with a rear barrel lug sight, as many of the early ASMs are outfitted?
 
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