Who'd like to see these stocks on the market?

Would you like to see any/all these stock designs on the Market?

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I've heard almost every arguement of epoxy vs. wood glue. I've heard some pros and cons of both, with the possibility of epoxy flowing too freely out of the joint, and wood glue not being able to stand the recoil impulse. I haven't really heard any difinitive arguements for both, but I have enough wood to do about 3-4 stocks, so I have some wiggle room to get things right. Anyone have legitimate experience in this matter?
 
Epoxy is great, but its also more expensive, and a bit harder to work with. I like it for bedding, but i dont use it to fix cracked or chipped stocks. Honestly ive always used what ever wood glue i had laying around, and so far so good.

As you said youve got enough ply to do a few stocks. Id go with the wood glue first, just to get a feel for the work and so youll have a working prototype. If you find that your getting compression (or warping), then youll need to look at something else. A healthy aplication of Marine texs in your bedding areas, and behind the recoil lug would help, or your bedding block idea.
 
Those are some awesome designs for being done in paint!

Have you ever thought of picking up copy of Auto-CAD or IDEAs or something similar?

You are quite talented.

BTW, I would grab the first stock in the first post if it were a good price.
 
I'll try the wood glue first, and if it fails, I have 2-3 after the first one to get it right.

Thank you, Pyzik. I understand that there are a lot of pages to look through, but I am on a netbook computer, half the size of a normal lap top. I don't have the memory to run a program like that.

We've decided with the SV-98 design first, but once I get more experience in this sort of thing, I'll start branching out to my other designs as well. I'm looking at a selling price of between $100-$130.

Thank you, NFG2888
 
Oh, as a note i dont have any experience with the Titebond stuff, just plain elmers wood glue.
 
I would say go with your typical Aliphatic Resin (Titebond and similar products), especially for a prototype. Just keep in mind that it is not waterproof and may soften with prolonged exposure to moisture. You should be alright if everything gets sealed really well before going into the field, but something to be aware of.

Make sure the surfaces to be joined are as true, flat and square as possible to provide the absolute maximum surface contact. Titebond doesn't fill gaps well, so warped surfaces may not hold the best.

I would recommend having a way to clamp with even pressure along the entire length of the joint or glued surface. I don't think you need superman levels of force applied, but again you want to even out any surface deformities and eliminate any small air pockets. Even with an evenly applied thin layer of glue I would expect to see it bleeding out of the joint when clamped. The nice thing about the aliphatic resins is you can clean them up with a damp cloth or sponge while they're wet.

I can't imagine typical recoil shearing the bond under normal circumstances, but I suppose it's possible. In testing the prototypes I would watch for any signs of the joint(s) coming loose and reevaluate from there. And if I remember right the resins have more potential shock absorbing properties than epoxies, but I haven't used epoxies much.

As to the furniture comment, most real old chairs squeak and are coming apart because they were put together with hide glue, like hide from horses, not with a resin. Hide glues shear easily, but can be as easily repaired. When used properly resins can be quite resilient.

FWIW, my background in woodworking comes from spending a year in a stringed instrument repair program. You have to know what needs to come apart, what needs to stay together, and what to use where to achieve those results.
 
I would say go with your typical Aliphatic Resin (Titebond and similar products), especially for a prototype. Just keep in mind that it is not waterproof and may soften with prolonged exposure to moisture. You should be alright if everything gets sealed really well before going into the field, but something to be aware of.
Click to expand...

I figure I could finish with a urethane coat over the OD paint after I scruff the paint a bit. If it's the plasticized coating I'm thinking of.

Make sure the surfaces to be joined are as true, flat and square as possible to provide the absolute maximum surface contact. Titebond doesn't fill gaps well, so warped surfaces may not hold the best.
Click to expand...

I plan on making a clamp board, where I can set the stock in and tighten some bolts down to give even pressure. Should flatten the wood pretty considerably.

I would recommend having a way to clamp with even pressure along the entire length of the joint or glued surface. I don't think you need superman levels of force applied, but again you want to even out any surface deformities and eliminate any small air pockets. Even with an evenly applied thin layer of glue I would expect to see it bleeding out of the joint when clamped. The nice thing about the aliphatic resins is you can clean them up with a damp cloth or sponge while they're wet.
Click to expand...

Read above, and I figure I could leave enough space to wipe off excess after it gets clamped.

I can't imagine typical recoil shearing the bond under normal circumstances, but I suppose it's possible. In testing the prototypes I would watch for any signs of the joint(s) coming loose and reevaluate from there. And if I remember right the resins have more potential shock absorbing properties than epoxies, but I haven't used epoxies much.
Click to expand...

I'll be doing a lot of careful observation while I'm testing. Hopefully no serious problems occur.

As to the furniture comment, most real old chairs squeak and are coming apart because they were put together with hide glue, like hide from horses, not with a resin. Hide glues shear easily, but can be as easily repaired. When used properly resins can be quite resilient.
Click to expand...

Cutting up old furniture shouldn't be an issue, if stripping the planks correctly and using the proper adhesive, I would think.

FWIW, my background in woodworking comes from spending a year in a stringed instrument repair program. You have to know what needs to come apart, what needs to stay together, and what to use where to achieve those results.
Click to expand...

I'll be doing my best. I have a background doing a lot of different things. I am a jack of all trades, but a master of none. I guess the closest thing I could come to mastering is welding, but I've been welding for a few years, so.
 
on the first stock i built i ran out of epoxy about 3/4 of the way before i finished the forearm. so i used titebond to attach the curved upper parts of the fore end to the bottom plank of the stock. about a year later it started developing a few crack where the wood glue was used but none where epoxy was used.
i dont care for the crap epoxy thats sold at hardware stores, homedepot and walmart. i use ez-poxy or acraglass. marine tex is also vey good and can be found at most boat stores, i used a bit of that on the buttstock.
i built this br style stock using a old bishop stock as a base.
cletus.jpg

used a router to cut the original forearm down to attach the 4" wide forearm bottom section.
mausercustomstockstep1.jpg
4" bottom section clamped down while the epoxy set.
mausercustomstockstep4.jpg
top of the forearm before being shaped.
customstock2.jpg
rough shaped forearm before being filled.
customstock3.jpg
rough shapped buttstock before being filled.
customstock5.jpg
 
Yikes, yeah I can't afford that right now. I'll do my first one with Titebond III and see what happens, it's significantly cheaper. While I'm not trying to go cheap, this is the prototype. If I notice any cracking, I'll go with the Marine Tex. Like I said, a 4'x8' sheet should do me about 3-4 stocks, so, we'll see where it goes.
 
I think you can get some other forms of decent epoxies cheaper then marine tex, it just happens to be what i like. Ill poke around later and see if i cant find the stuff a friend suggested, supposed to be generic accraglass. Ill differ to Jim, Ive only repaired a few stocks never tried to actually attach other parts to them.
 
Ill check with the post office, i dont know what the rules are for shipping epoxies...i know they wont let you take them on a plane lol.

I just looked at the EZ-Poxy Jim posted. Thats the same stuff a friend of mine uses when he does racing paddles for the canoe folks here. If the glue fails, i can probably dig up the cash to pay for a small order of that stuff.
 
Well, I just picked up the wood glue, Titebond III.

Label says it's water-proof, so that's nice to know, especially since I'm sure that some of these stocks will see some water at some point in their lives.

Got it at Menard's, paid $12.83.

100_1289.jpg
 
When do you expect the first stock to be built? I want to see some range reports!!! If they are working good on the mosins then I'll be in line when you devolp a k-31.
 
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