Mosin-Nagant user thread

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Pitting from rust looks the same on the inside as the out. Its that ruff texture kinda all over. I may firelap my rifle later to see if i can smooth out my bore a bit, or if im going to shorten it again ill hand lap it.
 
Your Mosin was shot and not properly cleaned. Salts in th epriming were spewed down th ebarrel and they attracted water to rust the bore, but all is not lost, only "rough"
Boiling water and scrub, boiling rinse and let it dry (1 minute) then solvet and a brush for a scrub and anther for goos mesure than patches and rescrub till the patches come out clean. may take alotta scrubbing and patches, but youll get it there. The boiling water drys itself and is only one step more than solvent alone.Be sure to sue an 8mm or .32 caliber brush for frictions scrubbing sake. A 20 gauge bore brush and solvent on a corless drill will help your chamber, because the bore is crusted I bet the chamber will give you "sticky bolt".

A Mosin will always tell you when its dirty, it will have a "Sticky bolt" and a good chamber scrub is the fix EVERY TIME, unless its so pitted its useless.

Your Mosin It will most likely shoot straight and fine. The rifleing isnt shot, but you do have to scrub alot more and get any and all rust and crud outta there, then shoot it for say 10 shots inna row, and clean again. The shooting often helps to close the steels pores with pressur, friction and materials from the bullets jackest.

You cant be lazy and a responsible Rifleman. Clean your rifle every time, its a precision tool of Death and it should be in ready working order or stored outta reach from those that would shoot and set it inna closet to rust.
 
dak0ta,

Yes the streaks are pitting. As for how it shoots -- just gotta try it and see. The pitting may make cleaning a bit more of a chore, but common on many old milsurps.

EDIT: Just saw the other replies to you. I agree with them.

I lucked out on my 91/30 and the lands are like mirrors, the bolt slides with just gravity, all numbers (including bayonet) match and there is still red in the grooves of the sight. The stock is in good shape with cartouches legible. One dime sized area of minor pitting under a barrel band when taken apart but I took care of that. Haven't fired it much but that changes on Saturday.

Just got in some neck sizing dies and waiting on some full-resizing dies for reloading. I scored 15 pieces of old Winchester brass and 10 Winchester SP rounds still in the original box for $15 at a gun show. Powder still rattles, so I think I'll shoot them off for the brass. Also bought 40 rounds of modern Privi Partisan SP rounds on sale for $30 to hunt deer. I'm torn whether to use this gun in the field or not.

So far I have $350 invested in the rifle, parts and reloading dies. If it shoots as well as I think it will with practice and the right loads, I got a bargain.

I've only fired 15 Brown Bear (modern) rounds through it off-hand and unsupported. At 80yards (measured), my final 4 round group fit inside a four inch circle. Damned good shooter.
 
A Mosin in referb condition will havd a fine shiney bore once you get the cosmo out. If the barrel was pitted, rusty or gone, they replaced it.
If the barrel was useable but not accurate or had a damaged crown, they would make a new crouwn and restore accuray. Often this was done with "counter bore" to the crown, sometimes an 1-1/2 inches deep. Still, accuracy was the goal.

A second hand Mosin could have any kind of barrel condition, but if they were indeed surplus from a European country, the army that kept them only kept the best and stored them untill they were bought and brough to the US to sell. Captured Mosins can be dicy, but are desirable in any condition as long as that is the way it came home. The Us does not sell "Captured" arms direct from the Army, so no "Battle feild pickups" for sale here...."Then" who knows......
 
This being the 1055 post on this thread we should have our own section!
There are some forums that are on the Mosin Nagant alone.
There is something about taking it out and shooting it w/ they bayonet on, and seeing people almost freak out just from the sight of the thing that just brings a warm feeling to my heart.
I was at an indoor gun range one time, and their was a man with his kid (est.15 yrs. of age) teaching him how to shoot with a single shot .22 rifle. The range was pretty empy that day so it was going to be very enjoyable shoot. I could hear the faint sound (Hearing protection on) of a .22lr. flying down range as I set up my 7.62X54Rmm clips for re-loading. There was of course a divider between us so they really could not see what was going to happen to their enjoyable father and son bonding moment. BAAM! -- They practically flew backwards from their booth, which caught my attention, so I turned and looked at them. The boy had this big happy yet suprised grinn on his face, and the father looks like he was ready to crawl up into the fetal position and suck his thumb! The kid became very interested in my rifle so with the fathers permission I showed him a thing or two about it so we may have another Mosin Nagant fan in a few years if not already. I asked the father if he wanted to try it out, and he respectfully declined and that's okay too. Mabye one day Santa will put one under the tree for ya, good luck kid! :)
Everyone have a safe and Happy Holiday's!
 
Well, I used some bore solvent, let it sit, then scrubbed with a .30 cal brush for at least 10-15 passes, then wrapped a patch around the brass brush and pushed it through a couple times. Then went to a jag and patches, then oiled. Patches were coming out cleaner and cleaner, but never white. I think the bore looks a little brighter and cleaner. What do y'all think?

DSCN3981.gif
DSCN3978.gif
DSCN3991.gif

And the chamber, can you guys see if there's junk in there that will cause sticky bolt?

DSCN3984.gif
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Also, Can you raise the front sight by drifting the hood off, and then using a punch to push the existing front sight a little higher via the hole in the bottom?
 
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Dak0ta, that barrel looks better, good work. They never come out with perfectly clean patches.

As for the receiver and cosmo in there, the true test is chambering a dummy or real round (safely pointing down range) and see if you can open the bolt and eject easily. If not, take a shotgun brush and chuck it in a drill, oil it up and slowly spin it in there. Now it shoots well and the action is like butter.

The front site: I'm no Mosin expert. All I've seen people do is take a little shrink tubing and put it on the post, then trim with scissors to correct height to taste. But shoot it first and see. There might be other options and somebody will chime in.

It is hard to tell as the pics of the crown are out of focus, and my eyes aren't what they used to be, but it looks like there may be some wear/pitting at the crown. If so, that can affect accuracy more than the bore. If gases escape from around the base of the bullet unevenly, the bullet exits the barrel at a slightly uneven/tilted trajectory -- and accuracy suffers. This is why they sometimes counterbored the rifles.

Let us know how it shoots!
 
For the front sight elevation, I was thinking of cutting a bit off my low E guitar string to add some height, and then just support it by gluing it, then support wrapping with electrical tape. The low E is .046 inches in diameter, the A is 0.036 inches, and D is 0.026 inches. Plus, the strings are nickelplated steel wrap wound around a hex core so it should be plenty stiff and durable. You think it could work?

They are designed to be corrosion resistant since they need to resist rusting from finger oil and sweat. You think it could work?
guitar-string-01.jpg
 
Picked up my first Mosin, was cut down to 20" and installed into a monte Carlo stock by previous owner. Barrel has been properly crowned but now have no front site.
Installed a scope mount and a cheap red dot till I can get a stock front sight mounted. Also gonna thread the barrel for a suppressor.

Sent vs Mytouch 4G
 
For the front sight elevation, I was thinking of cutting a bit off my low E guitar string to add some height, and then just support it by gluing it, then support wrapping with electrical tape. The low E is .046 inches in diameter, the A is 0.036 inches, and D is 0.026 inches. Plus, the strings are nickelplated steel wrap wound around a hex core so it should be plenty stiff and durable. You think it could work?
Too much flex, IMO. The diameter is with the wrap, so the actual core is considerably thinner. The whole reason for the core + wrap construction is to give them flexibility, which is exactly what you don't want. With each shot, that thing would be twanging like ... a guitar string.

But what the heck -- try it and see. I could be wrong. It has happened before. ;)
 
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Just for comparison, here is the bore on my most accurate mosin. I scrub mine with a brass bore brush inserted into a cordless drill.

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Holy crap, I just adjusted my Mosin trigger and it's sooooooo good now. I just bent the sear spring at the mid point and voila, the trigger is amazing! My gun didn't have very much creep, but I can pull the trigger with my pinky now! (my primitive, qualitative tension gauge). I was going to shim and polish, but I don't think I need to, it's almost as close to my K31 now without the 2 stage trigger! So happy! :) Merry Xmas btw :p
 
Experiment with bending. I bent it too much at first, and I had a awesome trigger, but the rifle would fire if I pulled back on the cocking piece. So I bent it back straighter a little bit and got a good trigger pull without sacrificing safety. I didn't want a trigger too light as i want to carry this gun for a deer hunt one day. I also feel like that bolt is easier to cock now, but that could be my imagination.
 
On my rifle i drilled and taped the reciever so i could adjust the sear contact, i found that there is so much slop that i cant adjust it the way i want have still have it safe. Polishing made it smoother, but i dont like the mile long pull before release.
Im going to be installing a timney trigger when i do the new stock, cant stand heavy or long trigger pulls LOL. This trigger is easier to work with the the Mini atleast, took me quite some time with stones to get that one where i wanted it.
 
i modified a few mosin triggers then i came to my senses and bought a pair of timneys.
the trigger on my m28/76 is almost as good as a timney. the m28/76 trigger assemblies were available from a guy on gb out of finland for around $50 shipped and they are the only decent alternative to the timney. the valmet tkiv-85 triggers are also available from the same guy for around $400 shipped, the main difference between them & the timney is there is no safety on the valmet trigger and the trigger position is adjustable forwards & backwards by a small amount
 
I was just trying to do what the Russian snipers and Fins would do to their rifles without drop in installations etc.
 
here are a couple pics of the two stage trigger from my m28/76 next to a standard single stage russian trigger for comparison.
the finn m28/76 trigger is pinned to a special sear and not to the receiver, the trigger is held against the underside of the receiver like a mauser trigger.
m28-76trigger.jpg

m28-76trigger1.jpg

m28-76trigger2.jpg
 
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