Mobil 1 Synthetic

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Unfamiliar with it. Do you know what the high and low temperature limits of this gun lube are ?


G/S
 
mobil 1

I use mobil 1 on all my pistols, but one the slide's I'll use a very thin layer of luberplate. (as on M1's and M14's) But mobil is applyed with a very small needle.
This is for all my CZ's (I have most of them, but no plastic ones)
Pat
 
Mobile 1 in my car

Mobile 1 preserves zero wear within one's car/truck engine. I'll admit that. Mobile 1 in a rifle? That is not a theme I'm familiar with. I use Remington oil and gunk-remover in my Remington Model 700. If Mobile One has some side-benefits, I'm all ears because $8 bucks for bore cleaner is expensive. cliffy
 
8 bucks a quart for bore cleaner is cheap if you compare the volumes, quite cheap.

I use Mobil 1 15K oil in my cars, I have plenty. Have to try it and see if attracts dust just like any other oil product.
 
I never considered using Mobil 1 (used it in my cars for years). Sounds like a great idea to mix up your own brew but why? Brian Enos sells a lubricant called Slide Glide that is formulated as a semi-automatic lube. I bought an ounce container about 4-5 years ago. After many cleanings on 2 pistols and a rebuild of my sliding patio door's wheels I still have 1/2 a container left.
 
I have continued to use Mobil 1 Synthetic on all of my firearms for over a year now and they have been flawless. This is the only lubricant that I will ever use.
 
How about Evinrude Johnson Triple-Guard Marine Grease as a lube/rust preventative?
http://www.usboatsupplies.com/mm5/m...ode=775777&Category_Code=BEJE&Store_Code=USBS

It is also relatively cheap (compared to "gun oils", etc. ) like M1, though depending on where you are it probably has lesser availability for a walk-in purchase.

I could see using ATF to clean, and this grease to lube & protect. So, instead of red to clean, gold to lube, it'd be red and blue.

I'd love to see someone from this thread with a chemistry background analyze this grease vs. M1.
 
I think its good to explore all of the alternatives to firearm lubrication and maintenance. Having said that, buying gun lubes support and encourages GUN related development and puts much needed $$ into the GUN industry.

Buying AUTOMOTIVE products to lube your guns with pump $$ into the AUTOMOTIVE industry. Given the relative small investment I have in gun lubricants I dont feel compelled to "Reinvent the wheel" by using motor oil on my fine pistols and rifles. :evil:

For this reason alone I will continue to buy GUN related lubrication products for GUNS and Automotive related products for my AUTO:neener:
 
Doesn't buying guns, gun parts, ammunition and reloading equipment & components support the gun industry much more directly than buying cleaning, lube & rust prevention chemicals?

I won't speak for anyone else, but I'd far rather buy some ATF and Mobil 1 (for example) and save a lot of my available gun budget for purchases of actual, you know, GUNS, or to get some gunsmithing work done on a gun, or to buy extra bullets or powders to develop an accurate load than to enrich a chemical company's coffers. But that's just me.
 
I try to stay away from automotive products on guns. They normally have detergents in them that may harm blueing. I used to think there was not much difference in oil products but there is. Trade off between slicknes, cleaning ability, and heat will always be a trade off in lubicants. I use synthetics religiously in my auto's and our fleet vehicles. I have preformed tests using reciprocating compressors. We did wear tests, breaking in a rebuilt compressor, heat, and amp tests separately. Results were in favor for synthetics on both heat and amp tests. The compressor did not break in and we ran it for 6 months. I know two specialists that I respect that sell oil. They both say buy oil specifically made for what you are using it for. My two cents.

Jim
 
I've been using a 50/50 mix of Kendall GT1 30w and Dura Lube for guns, the headstock bearings on my lathe, live centers, lead/ball screws, etc. for years, as well as assembly prelube for I.C. motors. Just don't use it on surfaces that need to wear-in (like piston rings-ask me how I know) until the wear-in process is complete...
 
buying gun lubes support and encourages GUN related development and puts much needed $$ into the GUN industry.
Click to expand...

That's great and all except that most of the so called speciality gun lubricants are just repackaged and relabeled industrial/automotive products. Buy a 55 gal drum of some common lubricant, put 0.5 oz of it in a syringe, call it super duper gun slicker upper 9000 and charge 8 bucks for it. Pure genius really.
 
I have a small drum of Mobil 1 in the workshop, I think there is about 10 gal left. I am starting a new company tomorow called "super duper gun slicker upper 9000" I plan on selling a great gun oil, and I will give all of you guys a discount. ;) only $7 per half ounce.
 
I was a gunsmith for 25 years and we tried every commercialy available product and tons of different home brew formulas. The absolute best all around oil for smooth action, reliability, etc is BreakFree. Period. Sometimes we will use a specialty oil like CorrosionX on high speed automatics, but BreakFree recently introduced a new oil for autos and stainless guns that is every bit as good as CorrosionX.

The BIG issue with the auto oils, synthetic oils, ATF oil mixes, etc is they ALL attract dust and dirt like a magnet and they all gum up in cold weather.

Some of the new dry powder based lubricants developed for our troops in the sandbox are absolutely incredible but they aren't yet available to the general public.
 
After getting a free black powder revolver a couple of months ago, and discovering what gets used in and on those guns, including vegetable/olive oil, Crisco, bacon fat, mutton tallow, and Murphy's Oil Soap, etc...
...and after considering what has been said on this thread, and others like it on this same topic...

I like what "sm" says the most.

About two months ago I wanted to whip up some Ed's Red, which I prefer over Hoppes #9 -- though Hoppes #9 is darn good stuff and I use it too sometimes, but only as an aftershave....

Anyway the moral of my story: I didn't have mineral sprits... wasn't about to go out a buy some...! So I substituted naphtha (similar to errrahhh... lighter fluid). Oops... I didn't have kerosene either ...and I'm not about to buy some, when I have a gallon of good diesel fuel sitting around ...so I substituted in the diesel fuel too!

Viola: Tony's Sopranno's Tenacious Crimson Cherry Juice... equal parts of

  • diesel fuel
  • acetone
  • ATF
  • naphtha

...works great, maybe even better than the original Ed's Red formula. Hell, I even used it as a gun oil once or twice, in pinch, but not as an aftershave. There is enough ATF in it, I think, to get the job done well enough. I'd bet kerosene alone would work as an oil too -- if that's all you've got -- though I don't recommend it.

Okay, so my point: Anything goes! ...and use your imagination, please! ATF is good, and so is Rem Oil, and Mobil One, and Miltech-1, and any combination of those, so long as they mix well and look clear and happy after the chemistry experiment is over. :fire:

I love Miltech-1 as a barrel conditioner. My .223 shoots nice tight < 1" groups after getting Miltech-1 sauteed several times. I'm also using Miltech-1 to break in another rifle, which is looking like a nice little tack driver -- once I get a fouling situation resolved.

When my little 1 ounce bottle of Miltech-1 runs out, late in the year 2010, I'll probablly invest in a huge bottle of 5W-40 Mobil One 'Turbo-Diesel-Truck' with "SuperSyn" anti-wear technology. ...Another way of saying it has little tiny particle stuff in it that gets into the micro-textures of most bearing surfaces, making it slicker than owl-doodoo on a flat rock, just like, or very similar to Miltech-1.

Like it or not, the bore of your gun and the rifling in it is a bearing surface. :banghead:

Give me a break guys! sm is really sensible on all of this, and

Gun Slinger: sorry man, you seem like you've bought financial interests in Mobil Oil.

Do you think Davy Crockett worried about whether he used ham hocks grease with honeysuckle beeswax, or rendered virgin mutton tallow with clover wax, or chicken fat and the wax from an old candle?

One last thing: Sometimes when I'm lazy, or in a hurry, I might slip the old bore snake down wrong end of the tube thingy. And I bet ol' Betsy does even know it happened -- you know, the heat of the moment and all! :neener:
 
that is a lot of cool data! thanks! i had read about using mobil 1 on the board many times. last week, i was at wally world, and decided to pick up a bottle. i bought 0w20. if i am going to use it in my hunting rifles, i want it to not screw things up because it got to thick. i do not believe that a firearm needs all that much for lubrication, especially compared to an internal combustion engine. as long as it sticks to the metal, and stays where you put it, and does not gel, you should be good to go. however, the better the oil, the less wear and tear. and the less chance that something can go wrong. i was thinking of completely saturating mt bolt with it, by using a baggie and a rubber band, like we used to do cales on motorcycles. the only problem is it takes a long time for the excess to drip out. i also agree that the addition of stp can be effective to thicken it up for different application points and guns. the only thing that i do not know about with this, in straight form, is its ability to stop rust / displace moisture. i figure that a quart of this should last about 3 lifetimes!
 
Tony Sopranno: said:
Gun Slinger: sorry man, you seem like you've bought financial interests in Mobil Oil.
Click to expand...

I thought the information would assist those who were interested in it simply for the sake of educating themselves. Feel free to ignore it if you wish.

Actually, if you have a 401k, you too, most likely own stocks in the petroleum industry. I suspect that some of my retirement holdings may very well indeed have such stocks present within their diverse compostion to assure balanced performance.

Think what you want and do as you please. I certainly couldn't care less.
 
The Science channel

Said with humor.
Good question, but guys you are going a little to deep on the science project.
In short. I think I'll give Mobil 1 a try. I do have one question? How will it work with a firearm the has been Gunkoted, it's a moly based coating.
 
How will it work with a firearm the has been Gunkoted, it's a moly based coating
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i used to be a motorcycle mechainc. way back when, your gunkote was gearkote. the same product used for treating transmission gears to prevent galling and reduce friction making more power available to the ground. you still had to use oil in the transmission, so gunkote and oil are very compatible. it will work fine with mobil one, and probably any other relativly light oil. the one thing you want to be certain of is that the oil itself never gets thick enough to slow down the moving of parts. so i would (and do) use very light weight oil in my firearms. while there is many tons of pressure the instant of ignition. there are no moving parts at that point other than perhaps the firing pin returning to its rest position. so the actual demands for high pressure or shearing effects really do not apply to most of the moving parts of a gun. i bought 0w20. you do not have to go that light if you do not want to. but i would not go any thicker than 10w30 for a firearm. i have also mixed up a small bottle of mobil 1 with a very small amount of stp. i intend on using this on a few of my rifles where the trigger does directly drag across the hammer creating a sort of shearing action. these are older lever guns, and need all the help they can get to make the triggers work smoother.
 
Vehicles are not guns! Guns are not vehicles.!

As far as synthetic oils the Germans had to use them in WWII, to run their jets and other equipment, not because they were any better than organic petroleum products, it was because they couldn't get the organics.

Most Autobahn hammers from Benz, Audi-VW,Porsche,BMW, require the synthetics due to the state of the art engines.

With todays engines and their small tolerences the synthetics have the edge, but firearms require larger tolerences to maintain function so the synthetic advantage is wasted.!
 
lubes etc.

Now thAT this thread has slowed a bit allow me to inject 2 other possibles. Marine gear lubes are both viscus and have a degree of anti oxidants in the mix. Amsoil is the brand Im most familiar with for abt 40 years. Another possible is krytox lubes which are flourocarbon lubicants and as such are virtually impervious to oxidation, they stick well and dont turn to gum. Ive used the krytox greases on fishing tackle-saltspray every outing and they do seem to reduce corrsion v. well. The gear lubes abit stinky so Ive not been too active with its use.????
 
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