Mosin-Nagant user thread
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I am not a fan of somple green. If you have access to a steamer use that.
So, on my 91/30 Tula pictured above. I'm a little confused after reading the 7.62x54r website. It's a hex receiver dated 1943, yet the site says Tula ended production in 1936 on hex and went to round.
Does anyone have any info?
Here's a picture of the barrel/reciever. The bolt is a matching number (716) to the barrel, though I don't think I've thought to confirm the receiver is stamped as such.
EDIT: More digging on their site shows it might be a 43 Tula on an older hex reciever. The only two examples they have are Chatellerault and Tula receivers. Can anyone distinguish what the marking on the flat spot of my hex receiver would indicate? I don't see that marking anywhere on the site (yet). Unless it's a smudged Tula hammer? Or the hammer over something else?
Does anyone have any info?
Here's a picture of the barrel/reciever. The bolt is a matching number (716) to the barrel, though I don't think I've thought to confirm the receiver is stamped as such.
EDIT: More digging on their site shows it might be a 43 Tula on an older hex reciever. The only two examples they have are Chatellerault and Tula receivers. Can anyone distinguish what the marking on the flat spot of my hex receiver would indicate? I don't see that marking anywhere on the site (yet). Unless it's a smudged Tula hammer? Or the hammer over something else?
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I posted that suggestion back in July when sticky bolt issues were being mentioned but it wasn’t too well received. I was going try steam but all my Mosin needed was another good cleaning with the shotgun brush and patches. Anyway the point is Iraqveteran8888 feels that gasoline and brake fluid is too harsh and I agree. In the end people are going to do what they want, it was only a suggestion
Sergei Mosin
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Simple Green or mineral spirits should work equally well. As others have observed, gasoline and brake fluid are excessively harsh. I'd go with whatever you think is least toxic, especially if you have to work indoors.
D94R, the Soviets frequently reused older receivers, typically during times of disruption to one or another plant. I have examples from World War I, the Russian Civil War, and World War II which were all built on older receivers. (Finland, of course, did this will all of their Mosins.) Tula had to be evacuated in 1941 and when production restarted there in 1943, they used many older receivers with new barrels.
Your '43 Tula is marked with the Tula hammer, which was used on receiver flats during the 1920s, and has a Cyrillic letter that was stamped over it at a later date. Field-strip the weapon and look on the underside of the tang; there should be a date and probably a hammer or some other marking there.
D94R, the Soviets frequently reused older receivers, typically during times of disruption to one or another plant. I have examples from World War I, the Russian Civil War, and World War II which were all built on older receivers. (Finland, of course, did this will all of their Mosins.) Tula had to be evacuated in 1941 and when production restarted there in 1943, they used many older receivers with new barrels.
Your '43 Tula is marked with the Tula hammer, which was used on receiver flats during the 1920s, and has a Cyrillic letter that was stamped over it at a later date. Field-strip the weapon and look on the underside of the tang; there should be a date and probably a hammer or some other marking there.
No worries....there is so many "youtube" experts floating around and so much mis-information out there it is not even funny.
True, anyone with a cam and throw one up. The difference is Iraqveteran8888 and Hickok45 know their stuff. They aren’t a couple of kids in Mom’s basement uploading vids. BTW both do nice reviews on the Mosin. They do it in a way where you draw your own conclusions, that's what it is all about. End of story
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dak0ta
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Alright, so all the metal work is removed of cosmoline. I can't seem to get the bore super clean, I still keep getting dark patches coming out. I've removed quite a bit, and it looks cleaner.
Time for the stock, what do I do to get rid of the caked up cosmoline in the corners of the action area of the stock? And areas under the barrel band springs etc.
Time for the stock, what do I do to get rid of the caked up cosmoline in the corners of the action area of the stock? And areas under the barrel band springs etc.
LJ-MosinFreak-Buck
Member
Apply some heat and let the cosmo seep out. You'll never truly get the bore to come out clean without the electrolosis (? right terminology) treatment, which can alter accuracy. Just get it to where it's somewhat shiny and you'll be fine.
Replace the stock?
I'm still debating whether it is beneficial to keep the original stock on a mass produced gun, worth less than $100, with no collector value. I suppose it depends on whether removal of the cosmoline is worth the trouble or not.
I'm still debating whether it is beneficial to keep the original stock on a mass produced gun, worth less than $100, with no collector value. I suppose it depends on whether removal of the cosmoline is worth the trouble or not.
LJ-MosinFreak-Buck
Member
Crummy thing about cosmo is it gets a sticky feeling once on your hands, and can transfer from firearm to firearm. I've had it happen, and that really stinks.
Sergei Mosin
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A little heat (blow dryer is fine), a paper towel, and some toothpicks will help get the corners clean. But you'll never get all of the cosmoline out of the stock, and I don't think there's much point in trying. Every time you shoot it, a little more will come out. Wipe it off with a paper towel and keep shooting. Cosmoline is just part of the charm of an old milsurp.
I often find that an old bore will shoot clean. Give it that good initial cleaning, run a box or two through it, and clean it as you would normally and it'll be fine.
I often find that an old bore will shoot clean. Give it that good initial cleaning, run a box or two through it, and clean it as you would normally and it'll be fine.
One I will agree with....the other not so much.
Part of the....ahhh...neat thing...I guess.....about youtube is that some are just for fun (fpsrussia), others try to give you honest evals and true thoughts on a given subject (hickok45) Others try to come across as an expert when they are actually not quite informed enough on any given topic...and the ammount of mis-information that is given is just shocking.
Yes...I am one of those "leave history alone" type guys but strang enough have no problem with his take on things....basically it is, hay there are a billion of these things, as long as you don't cut up one of value have at it. His attitude is not a know-it-all like some of the others, and not a total clown like others still...but there are some good stuff in the few videos I have seen. There are a few others out there that have some pretty good com-bloc weapon videos....and firearm videos in general....most are just trying to sound like they are trying out for a new Discovery TV show....and have the facts on par for most of their shows.
dak0ta
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I just did some cleaning up on my stock. Just used boiling water soaked rag and let it steam for a bit and then wiped off the cosmoline (repeat).
I have most of it off on the surface, barrel channel and action. I just need to get it out of the barrel band springs, the action recess in the stock, and trigger recess in the stock.
I have most of it off on the surface, barrel channel and action. I just need to get it out of the barrel band springs, the action recess in the stock, and trigger recess in the stock.
shelac shmellyac
The crap on my arsenal refinished Mosins could be easily removed by a casual fingernail. It was total crap. I removed it with lacquer thinner, steel wooled them with very fine steel wool, redyed the stocks with dye and put on three coats of clear, satin, marine spar varnish. When it was thoroughly dry and hard I lightly buffed them again with the steel wool and applied carnauba wax. The result is very nice looking and very smooth and pleasant to the touch. Using dye instead of stains you enhance rather than cover up the natural grain of the wood. You can also see the various often ingenious stock repairs. All three of mine including the Finn had them.
Why should anyone care about the crap that comes on them from the arsenal refinishers?
The crap on my arsenal refinished Mosins could be easily removed by a casual fingernail. It was total crap. I removed it with lacquer thinner, steel wooled them with very fine steel wool, redyed the stocks with dye and put on three coats of clear, satin, marine spar varnish. When it was thoroughly dry and hard I lightly buffed them again with the steel wool and applied carnauba wax. The result is very nice looking and very smooth and pleasant to the touch. Using dye instead of stains you enhance rather than cover up the natural grain of the wood. You can also see the various often ingenious stock repairs. All three of mine including the Finn had them.
Why should anyone care about the crap that comes on them from the arsenal refinishers?
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Where I got my mosins
I bought two from keepshooting.com and The M39 from [email protected].
The two I bought from keepshooting were arsenal refinished and except for the crappy shellac were very nice. The Finn looked nice until you removed the wood and there I found some minor rust and significant but still relatively minor pitting.
Pat Burns is not very pleasant to do business with if you have a complaint. If you order a Finn from them inspect it as best you can, but don't even attempt to clean it or they won't take it back. I know that it is impossible to do much of an inspecting job without cleaning the bore, but they started telling me I couldn't return it because I had cleaned it, when all I wanted to do was give them a piece of my mind. They give a very fine description without having thoroughly inspected the piece themselves. So, If you buy from them it is a crapshoot. They are giving optimistic guesses with their descriptions.
I bought two from keepshooting.com and The M39 from [email protected].
The two I bought from keepshooting were arsenal refinished and except for the crappy shellac were very nice. The Finn looked nice until you removed the wood and there I found some minor rust and significant but still relatively minor pitting.
Pat Burns is not very pleasant to do business with if you have a complaint. If you order a Finn from them inspect it as best you can, but don't even attempt to clean it or they won't take it back. I know that it is impossible to do much of an inspecting job without cleaning the bore, but they started telling me I couldn't return it because I had cleaned it, when all I wanted to do was give them a piece of my mind. They give a very fine description without having thoroughly inspected the piece themselves. So, If you buy from them it is a crapshoot. They are giving optimistic guesses with their descriptions.
caribou
Member
Shellac is to the wood as the Cosmoline is to the metal, its to preserve them for WWIII, then be removed , oiled and used. Denatured alcohol will remove the storage shellac and gasoline will remove the cosmoline just like when it would be issued to the soldier.
Shellac and cosmoline are not made for wear but as preservitives for long term storage.
Tula made Mosins in production untill 1940 then ceased production in favor for the toatal production of the semi automatic SVT-40. When the Germans invaded and the then new SVT-40 had not been perfected in manufacture nor were many men trained in its care, which were great, so the M-91/30 was deemd starndard, and the SVT-40 was relagated to the Navy in midwar to centralize them, and production of the SVT-40 stopped alltogether. The SVT-40replaced in service by the SKS-45 after the war.
A great many untrained conscripts were drawn to fight the germans, some were sent to factires to fill in personell and during the great retreat the machinery for making Mosins was moved and various parts of the factory hurriedly rebuilt (often just a roof to keep off sun and rain, with makeshift walls) and because ofits past experiance previously making the bolt action rifle, it was easy to train a man to manufacture/operate machinery a with in a matter of hours, and keep on making parts where ever the machinery was.
Tula started making Mosins again in the last days of 1941 and Tula made 1941 marked Mosins are rather rare. They needed ANY rifle they could make and idle machinery was brought on line again. 1942 to 1947 barrels and various parts are not too rare and could have been made at Tula itself under evacuation manufature. I belive they made Mosins and reworked war wear ones back into shape for WWIII
Shellac and cosmoline are not made for wear but as preservitives for long term storage.
Tula made Mosins in production untill 1940 then ceased production in favor for the toatal production of the semi automatic SVT-40. When the Germans invaded and the then new SVT-40 had not been perfected in manufacture nor were many men trained in its care, which were great, so the M-91/30 was deemd starndard, and the SVT-40 was relagated to the Navy in midwar to centralize them, and production of the SVT-40 stopped alltogether. The SVT-40replaced in service by the SKS-45 after the war.
A great many untrained conscripts were drawn to fight the germans, some were sent to factires to fill in personell and during the great retreat the machinery for making Mosins was moved and various parts of the factory hurriedly rebuilt (often just a roof to keep off sun and rain, with makeshift walls) and because ofits past experiance previously making the bolt action rifle, it was easy to train a man to manufacture/operate machinery a with in a matter of hours, and keep on making parts where ever the machinery was.
Tula started making Mosins again in the last days of 1941 and Tula made 1941 marked Mosins are rather rare. They needed ANY rifle they could make and idle machinery was brought on line again. 1942 to 1947 barrels and various parts are not too rare and could have been made at Tula itself under evacuation manufature. I belive they made Mosins and reworked war wear ones back into shape for WWIII
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Re Front Barrel bands
I'm sure somebody who knows a lot about the various incarnations of Mosins will be able to answer this question:
Can I replace a m91/30 Mosin Nagant front barrel band with an earlier model easily removable and replaceable (and more expensive) barrel band?
I have found them on the internet but can't find any info on fit.
Thanks
I'm sure somebody who knows a lot about the various incarnations of Mosins will be able to answer this question:
Can I replace a m91/30 Mosin Nagant front barrel band with an earlier model easily removable and replaceable (and more expensive) barrel band?
I have found them on the internet but can't find any info on fit.
Thanks
ill have to check it out. My friend found one at some shop and got to inspect it before buying which is what i want to do so i don't get boned. tho they are cheap enough. I may go with Wideners reloading and shooting supply inc. Its where i got my cz.
I got two words for ya
C&R
Really tho....look into it...I will not say it will save you any money....but all that money you do spend you will get MORE STUFF
C&R is how I got my 91/30 and the 38. The 91/30 through J&G sales, the 38 through my dad (also a C&R FFL).
The 44 was bought through Big5 when they'd have them at 50% off, for $60 or something close, back in 08ish.
There is a LGS that sells round Mosins for $99, and Hex for a few dollars more. So, in this case, I'd spend more to save some bucks if I were to renew my C&R just to get a J&G sales Mosin rather than stroll in to the LGS and walk out with it a few minutes later.
The 44 was bought through Big5 when they'd have them at 50% off, for $60 or something close, back in 08ish.
There is a LGS that sells round Mosins for $99, and Hex for a few dollars more. So, in this case, I'd spend more to save some bucks if I were to renew my C&R just to get a J&G sales Mosin rather than stroll in to the LGS and walk out with it a few minutes later.
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