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Interesting article. Thanks for posting. I've always been in the camp who shoots them until they split, and can't say I've noticed high primers. Some of my brass goes back to the 50s and 60s, so there's no telling how many times they've been loaded. Out of curiosity, I just pulled ten old .45...
I load for precision and measure that by groups on paper and their by their velocities across the chrono. Usually the tightest velocities also have the tightest groups on paper. Call it a 2-step verification process. Often, as you record the results, you'll find two or three loads that have...
Don't sweat it. Air conditioned spaces are still relatively new compared to how long gunpowder has been around. It will be fine. If you insist on putting in your fridge, however, I'd at least let the cans warm up to room temperature for a few hours before opening them. What occurs on cold...
Here's my procedure. For starters, not all 5.56 / .223 Rem brass is suitable for conversion. Ideally, the neck wall thickness will be 0.010" to 0.011", and suitable wall thicknesses can go up to 0.013". At 0.014" and above, however, the finished cartridge diameter at the neck may be too thick...
It's generally a matter of whether the brass requires a case lube to resize.
For pistol brass (doesn't require case lube), wet tumble with primers in, dry, load on a progressive press.
For rifle brass (requires case lube), wet tumble with primers in, dry, deprime/resize/trim, wet tumble again...
There's really no way to keep track of firings for semi-auto brass (esp. 9mm), since it falls with all the other range brass I scoop up, unless you want to start using a Sharpie to ID your own brass. I don't see the benefit in that unless you're competing in bullseye shooting, so for pistol...
If it's in my powder hopper, I'll usually just top it off with fresh. If I'm hand weighing charges, I use the last bit up. I'll mix the last few grains with fresh in a single load that I'll mark with a sharpie stripe as a sighter round. I sure don't dump it out!
I once forgot to pick the media from hundreds of 5.56 primer pockets and didn't realize it until I was almost done reloading them. I was cautious of misfires, but they all went off and hit as precisely as any other. With that said, I don't hope to repeat it.
Horrible requirement, but if you're infringed with it, at least take a .45 so you have most of your bases covered. I'd be very tempted to buy a .50 AE to qualify just because.
None of the stick powders meter terribly well, unfortunately, but Varget is my favorite to hand weigh for .223 precision.
I've never gotten rid of any powder except by shooting it, lol. Then again, I try to research each one well before buying and also try to keep my variety somewhat consolidated.
That is a wonderful idea that first needs to be mitigated with more brass and primers... and powder! After that, OP should consider the cost/effort of stocking up on cheap and readily available bullets vs. casting, which is an endeavor unto itself. And yes I cast for pricier loads, but don't...
Without reading the entire thread, the record scratch moment for me in OP's post was the 100 cases and 100 primers. That's not half a range trip to even start with, and I recommend adding a zero to both those numbers. The other thing is, instead of diving into bullet casting at the same time...
I'm guessing the primer was high and was detonated by the bolt face the instant the bolt lugs came into contact (met resistance) with the locking lugs, but before the bolt rotated into battery. So yes, an out of battery firing.
I didn't compare them to anything. I simply stated, "I tend to Dillon all the things and have not been disappointed", as in, they work well and have never given me issues. I made High Master in NRA High Power using their dies and a 550 press. I'm a satisfied customer, that's all.
But since...
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